Aitor Throup

[copacetic]

...they are simply the most amazingly constructed pants I have ever seen...

How so? I've heard this kind of superlative before...

[larssss]

^^ my apologies for being so vague.

I believe the pants I examined where the "shiva" model, which are extensively darted, composed of many shaped panels and features several invisible zippered pockets as well as the signature foot slipper things aitor seems to love so much. These features alone make sewing the pants very very expensive as they can't be done in the standard, pockets-outseam-inseam-waistband order that the vast majority of the worlds pants are constructed.

Next the pants are lined in a way that mimics the outside construction. All the panels and darting are recreated in the lining so that the lining doesn't float, as it does in most pants or coats, but is attached at every seam point. Essentially you could turn the pants inside out and wear them and they would looks very similar to the outside.

Thats all that comes to mind at the moment. If anyone can add to, or refute anything I've said here, please do so. This is in no way definitive as I'm working off a biased memory of staring at a pair of pants in a store for about 5 minutes.

And someone PM'ed me about the Articulated Anatomy pricing at C21. Cargos: approx $175, Long Sleeve: approx $100. Hope that helps.

[seenmy]

I'm pretty sure a few pages back I explained the basics of the construction process involved in Aitors pants,I imagine larsss saw the calf pocket pant (assuming you saw at seven)

the diagram above for the modular anatomy jacket is the easiest way to describe the construction process, you see every panel is essentially a 'pillow case', each piece is constructed this way right down to the individual belt loops, these 'pillow cases' are pressed flat so the seam allowence is on the inside creating a perfect 2 layer pattern piece, these pieces are then stitched together edge to edge there is no seam allowence using a sewing technique Aitor developed in house in one of his early collections.I would be surprised if you ever see another garment produced in this way that is not one of his, I simply dont think anyone else would be mad enough to undertake the process to create a garment.

[tweeds]

What really stood out was that the mad construction, while cool by itself, was a way of translating his dynamic graphic form into clothing as dynamic and fluid as the illustration it was based off. Not just a because-I-can sort of thing, but a brilliant way of turning concept into product.

Still kind of disappointed that kunk's jacket does none of the things it advertises though...and reserving comments on the Umbro stuff until i see it.

[SHYE_POSER]

Kasabian - SWITCH BLADE SMILES

Video directed and created by Aitor , He also designed the album cover.

[Servo2000]

Kasabian - SWITCH BLADE SMILES

Video directed and created by Aitor , He also designed the album cover.

Remember seeing this a bit back and was struck by how non-aitor it felt. It strikes me as pretty generic - certainly a step down from New Orleans video (and the song is horrible as well).

[SHYE_POSER]

I'm not a fan of kasabian in general, but the video and album cover do have a resemblance to his graphic illustrations. Patiently waiting for some news of a new project other than the england strip.

[Servo2000]

I'd still argue that it really only feels like a translation of his illustrations in the most general sense - it captures some superficial "graphic" qualities but doesn't have the depth and personality that's made the rest of his work so unique - it's all in the details and the details here don't live up to the rest of Throup's work in my opinion.

(I'm only talking about the video, haven't seen the cover)

[SHYE_POSER]

I agree totally. Its like a watered down version of his illustrations. We must keep in mind that it is for a band. It does seem overly clean and grapgic, where as in his illustrations , with his pencil/pen work, there is more movement per se.

Velociraptor album art

The cover is in keeping with the stencil/graphic nature of their previous album covers.

[SHYE_POSER]

Not Fashion related but rather interesting non the less.

DRC MUSIC: KINSHASA ONE TWO (for OXFAM)

[Servo2000]

First post in this thread was in 2006 just for reference.

[Faust]

cool, awesome, more random bullshit.

how about some clothes?

i say this as someone who has been singing his praises from various audible points like a particularly-zealous muezzin's allahu akhbar for longer than i care to remember. okay, a music video, a record cover, some collabs and, holy shit, three pairs of fucking pants.

oh for fucks sake.

LOL. What I've been saying for ages. Too much, too soon, the bane of the fashion industry. At least Pugh makes clothing.

[tweeds]

Real tings

http://www.thedailystreet.co.uk/2011/09/umbro-aitor-throup-launch-a-r-p-collection/

Saw and tried the pieces on at DSM and was suitably impressed. Patternwork is intricate and everything is finished nicely - taped seams, flat felling, vents and articulations built in. Little details like his faceplate design and pocket openings stand out, and his eye for fabrics with a good handfeel and technical performance is clear.

Also got hold of the accompanying publications: three volumes, organised into 'Archive', 'Research' and 'Project'. The first is an analysis of particular archival Umbro pieces, the second consists of Throup's drawings plus garment detail & fabric research, and the third is basically product shots.



But keep in mind that one has to enjoy technical garments generally to enjoy the Umbro pieces. Brands like Gyakusou, Acronym, SI Shadow, etc.

Full range available at: http://www.endclothing.co.uk/brands/...search-project

[tweeds]

I think Throup's problem is always going to be turning his pieces into production runs, to be honest. That's why you have the trouser project, with each piece running over £1000. Then the single prototypes which are, as you say, museum/display pieces that you can't own in the same way as you can other garments. (Still pretty stunning, as the trouser wireframe model you posted reminded me - my head still pops every time I recall seeing his Hindu Gods work up close.)

And then you have his production-level work, which necessarily compromises on the fantastical nature of his concepts and one-offs - but, as with Umbro, loses none of the attention to detail.

[tweeds]

I'm sure he'll pull something out at some point, but it won't be the end of the world if he doesn't - fashion trundles on. The Jurgi Persoons thread is (sadly? nostalgically? unfortunately?) proof of that.

Maybe I scrolled past it at some point, but I'm seeing this image for the first time and it's fucking beautiful.

Up there with this as my favourite Aitor Throup illustration: