Aitor Throup

[Chant]

Technicals skills are important for CCP and he always insists on the specific ones he has (traditionnal tailoring) and the importance of "das Sakko" in his work, but you're completely wrong about the hierarchy. Technic is second and always serves the transposition into the clothes of his reflexion about - to say it very briefly - what is a garment ?/what is a body ?/how do body and garment relate together ? Nothing technical there, but a reflexion that involves history of art, history of the human body representations and also some kind of qualitative mathematics.

[picture from Lift]

And you're not right neither about the "Zeitgeist", even it's not really my cup of tea, since the way CCP creates, produces and sells is definitely an implicit critic of the mass consumption society and, of course, of the way most of the other fashion designers are working.
And please, noobs, don't ask me how such expensive clothes can be sign of critic of consumption society.

As for Aitor Throup, I agree that he's one of the most interesting designers of now, and from what I've seen and handled from the previous collection, the attention to fabric is as well an important part of his work.

EDIT : I like the way Faust and I are playing the official antagonists here.

Or should I say ?

(picture dedicated to interest1, of course)

[Faust]

/\ lol. I enjoy that too :)

I will stop the comparisons though, not to derail this thread. :)

[SHYE_POSER]

Christian - Aitor also works in a similar vain. In terms if how the garments effect the body and its movement.
From his initial concept an sketches, he develops the patterns on small moquettes which are normally in various positions/poses, and from this the patterns are created.

I was blown away by the 4 pieces on show at DSM.
Taking classic men's staples such as the denim jacket, jeans and t-shirt and making them completely his own.
Incomparable to anything in terms of construction.
You can see the influences from street/sportswear and some artisanal finishes.
Overall the work is undoubtedly his. As I've said numerous times, I feel that Aitor is the future, he is pushing menswear in a direction I do t see others doing.
In 10years (if not sooner) he will be considered one of the best menswear designers in the industry, not just within a certain niche.

I keep singing his praises, but it is hard not too, in my case atleast.

[Heirloom]

I like this. Everything this man says is sane, makes absolute sense, is intellectual as well as emotional, and does still produce objects with great innovation and visual stimulance. He really knows design, himself, the industry and what he's doing.

[Macro]

an open letter to Aitor Throup...

Aitor, I applaud you for your comprehensive and detail oriented approach to breaking the Glass Hype Cieling previously held in check by such honorable SZ giants as Carol Christian Poell and Maurizio Altieri, for with this DSM presentation you have invariably proven to myself, and perhaps to others on this forum as well, that no amount of space - 'history' or 'research' - you surround these garments with can enhance the material substance of the garments themselves. Unless the final wearer can feel the intention inside the finished garment, a thing felt only when devoid of the accompanying weighted context with which you propose your 'new object research', your six or so years of ruminating impress me only in their fascinating indulgences of time and energy, trumped only by the fear you very clearly possess when presenting your work that proves your objects are nothing more than exactly what they are.

Aitor, show me the clothes without the novellas of explanation, your beautiful illustrations, all the exhaustive explanations that ostentatiously exhibitionize such underwhelming manifestations. I look forward to handling your hype machine personally next year, without the noise, and while it may not sound it I hope I fall in love with it instantly, because six years can quickly turn on you if the research does not sell.

Good luck.

[Ahimsa]

Film premiere: Aitor Throup x DSM: New Object Research
by Dazed Digital

[cowsareforeating]

[Ntropy]

lucky you. i'm guessing we can't all just show up with your invitation can we?

[dantebykiko]

Well depends if they keeping the exhibition up for the whole day, worth going around 1pm. Shouldn't be super strict around that time.

[Faust]

I guess you missed this part of the email

"Notice of Confidentiality:
This transmission is intended for the named only. It contains information
which may be confidential and which may also be privileged. Unless you are the
named addressee (or authorised to receive it for the addressee) you may not
copy or use it, or disclose it to anyone else."

[cjbreed]

^lol

welp...ok aitor. we're ready if you are....

i'm excited about this so please don't "reveal" one damn skull piece of some kind like a skull hat or something.

[Faust]

It will be more than that.

[Ntropy]

Well depends if they keeping the exhibition up for the whole day, worth going around 1pm. Shouldn't be super strict around that time.

well, the invitation says it's only an hour long (11:15 - 12:15)....

I guess you missed this part of the email

"Notice of Confidentiality:
This transmission is intended for the named only. It contains information
which may be confidential and which may also be privileged. Unless you are the
named addressee (or authorised to receive it for the addressee) you may not
copy or use it, or disclose it to anyone else."

are you saying you wouldn't crash that party if you lived in london

[dantebykiko]

It won't make difference if you have the invitation or not. There are two lists with names on the door. You can get this information from bfc.

It does says this is the "fix" hour but the exhibition might be up for the rest of the day..

[the breaks]

It won't make difference if you have the invitation or not. There are two lists with names on the door.

people to let in and people to keep out?