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Thread: Aitor Throup

  1. #41

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    that was fairly interesting. ahh i'm fiending for some AT pants now.

  2. #42

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    looks great
    .

  3. #43

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    yeah you're right, definitely not overdesigned. the construction details looked on point. the one thing i thought was a bit strange was the fabric choices, but when/if i see it in person, it'll actualize better.

    but yeah i think these are the pants i've been looking for :).hope a few of the models fit bigger legs.

  4. #44

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    I need those Trumpet pants in my life so bad. And almost all of the ones from the second part of the Funeral of New Orleans deserve a space in my closet.

  5. #45
    Senior Member SHYE_POSER's Avatar
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    Interview from www.dazeddigital.com also some images of the PFW installation.

    This weekend in Paris, designer Aitor Throup launched 'Legs', a retrospective of trousers designed from 2004 to 2010 by the Royal College of Art graduate and the result of six years of new object research. Throughout the Galerie Jean-Luc are Takako Richard stationary male forms moulded in thermoactive cotton mesh in rows from the ceiling, captured in vital movements of the human body. Throup has progressed chronologically through his archives, lifting a selection of designs from every six months and reinterpreting them with materials and design details appropriate to the season – and in doing so, has created an arena welcoming the expression of pure creativity and functionality. Capable of communicating a full-bodied narrative without proposing a complete look, Legs strives to elevate the status of trousers from over-saturated commodities to unique objet d’art.

    Throup’s series of trousers entitled 'The Funeral of New Orleans' is in particular a testament to the creativity and logic of his vision. Informed by the traditional funeral processions of New Orleans’ marching bands, it deals with concepts of body armour – each piece is formed onto a mesh sculpture of the human body created in the pose required to play each instrument, and the trousers demonstrate five exaggerated stages of shrinkage from when wool is exposed to water. It is clear that Throup’s designs exist beyond the tired parameters of fashion– they are meticulously constructed garments existing both within their narrative and without, made with respect for the human body and an astounding understanding of its formation.

    Dazed Digital: You know, I only know about your recent work – I couldn’t find out much about what you were doing two or three years ago.
    Aitor Throup: Oh, really? What actually happened is that I graduated from my Masters with the Hooligans collection, and that was quite creatively exhausting for me really because of every single little detail that was there.

    DD: At the same time, there was a kind of logic to it!
    Aitor Throup: A logic but mostly an explanation. It’s based on a kind of deeper definition of this obsession with masculinity or this masculine obsession with what’s traditionally function. But it’s not actually function – it’s reason. Fuction is a reason – if something has a function, that is why it’s there, right? – but I’m interested in exploring reasons beyond function, so something can have a reason because of a narrative or a concept, so [with The Funeral of New Orleans], it’s not a function but because it’s one pair of trousers systematically shrinking, with the same pockets, same waistband, same construction, you’re moving and increments and you’re setting something in motion and telling a story. There is a reason that trouser is 33% smaller than that trouser!

    DD: Is it really 33% smaller?
    Aitor Throup: No, I can’t remember what it is exactly right now.

    DD: Right. At this point I’m probably just going to believe everything that you say verbatim. This is unlike anything I’ve seen.
    Aitor Throup: That’s alright. There’s a mathematical term called parametric equation which is basically an equation that is – well – defined by parameters. So the parameters are predefined, and then the equation can be infinite if that’s what you want. So, for example there’s this new movement in architecture that is mirroring that. Architects might expand ceilings or floor sizes by increments, and so a building just begins to build up. What increments are you changing? Which side of the building is growing?

    DD: There’s such logic about all of your work. Is this something that has always been quite instinctual for you?
    Aitor Throup: I think being conceptual in fashion is really overused but our conceptual is about having confidence that you can justify and explain and having a narrative and I think that is something that is quite rare.

    DD: It’s similar to what you were saying earlier about how you can’t communicate all of this around us on a catwalk.
    Aitor Throup: Exactly, I don’t like the mentality of showing something for a very limited amount of time to a static audience that doesn’t get to choose the amount of time they look at the object or the angle from which they look at it. Me, I love my objects! There is a narrative built in them and here I can allow the viewer to be the active component rather than the passive component. It’s for them, you know.
    merz: your look has all the grace of george michael at the tail end of a coke binge.

  6. #46

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    I am trying to be patient, as I really want to believe in this guy.........
    but trust me, I am really losing patience, and a lot of it is gone.
    Every time there is an article or feature about him the story is grand, and the clothes just looks unimpressive.

    There are a lot of really talented designers around, doing excellent work, maybe its time to focus our attention on someone else more deserving, as except for the illustrations he does, I see nothing really wonderful or exiting in 80% of the clothes he does.......

    Sorry If I sound harsh, I was just really excited about this season for him, and for me its just more of the same............Emperors New Clothes!


    this is the only piece that looks interesting, and I am not even sure what it is......
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  7. #47
    Senior Member SHYE_POSER's Avatar
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    The guy who done the interview is a schmock.

    Zamb,i agree on the most part. As it states its a retrospective of all various trousers he has designed. I would think that you,as a designer yourself.Who i think had worked designing/creating functional (military-esque?) clothing would fully appreciate the technical ability this guy has!
    As most of us have been waiting for the bugger to release something,even a capsule collection,even another pair of bloody topman trousers.

    Why? Because he is probably one of the most interesting and talented young menswear designers of the moment.I feel that Throup has almost the same allure as say CCP.In the sense that people admire his work process.The thought process from concept to product.His method of working is quite unique to him.
    And am sure that when he does release something for retail under his own name it would be a runaway success.
    merz: your look has all the grace of george michael at the tail end of a coke binge.

  8. #48

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    Thimister is a real designer, who has his foot firmly planted in reality, everything that's in his collection is wearable and nice.
    Everything I see here, looks stupid to me, as for me, I won't wait on him any longer, let someone else more deserving has his place in my mind.
    I am usually reluctant to say these things because as a designer, there is a certain degree of sensitivity that I have for other designers work, in part because I understand the difficulties involved in the business, but please,
    a retrospective?
    of what?
    he has done nothing to qualify him in doing a retrospective.........Maybe instead of creating fancy mannequins to display the work, he should focus on the work itself.
    Also Yes I did design (and was a patternmaker) for military clothing for 2.5 years, so I can appreciate the technicalities in the work, but the problem is I see no real technicalities here, truth be told its not even anywhere near as advanced as what is happening in current military design.
    And I know its somewhat unfair to him, as a designer to make this comparison, in part because, most R.D. companies doing military design have huge budgets, and he might not, but come on........

    GIVE US SOMETHING TO BELIEVE THAT YOU ARE LEGIT............ please





    Quote Originally Posted by SHYE_POSER View Post
    The guy who done the interview is a schmock.

    Zamb,i agree on the most part. As it states its a retrospective of all various trousers he has designed. I would think that you,as a designer yourself.Who i think had worked designing/creating functional (military-esque?) clothing would fully appreciate the technical ability this guy has!
    As most of us have been waiting for the bugger to release something,even a capsule collection,even another pair of bloody topman trousers.

    Why? Because he is probably one of the most interesting and talented young menswear designers of the moment. And am sure that when he does release something for retail under his own name it would be a runaway success.
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  9. #49

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    but have you ever held or touched one of the garments ? everything is based on asumption,I wouldnt dismiss until you have felt and examined the finished article as pictures can be deceiving.

    the first 3 trousers in the film I believe will be made available for aw10 so the wait is not so long now for those eager to experience the real thing,having examined the final products at the show the detail and construction is painstaking, the method of production on the new trumpet and anatomy trouser is like nothing out there,every individual piece goes through several processes before being fur stitched together on the final garment this even includes the stretch details every panel is double layer so the wool hangs perfectly on the body,even if the style is not for you on a sheer product level they are truly something else.They need to be held and tried on and examined to see the true level of attention to detail and now finally the wait is nearly over.

  10. #50
    Senior Member SHYE_POSER's Avatar
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    Thimister and Throup are incomparable. I see throup as pushing things forward. Where Thimister ,is a good designer but not really pushing boundaries of any kind.
    And he cannot be compared to R.D companies because he is not doing military wear.

    Aitors feet are also firmly planted in reality. His concepts stem from VERY REAL incidents. From racial abuse/hooliganism/religion and the N.O disaster.......how much more based in reality do you want do you want the guy to be?
    merz: your look has all the grace of george michael at the tail end of a coke binge.

  11. #51

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    Quote Originally Posted by nambla View Post
    Yes, it is an alternative way. I like manga very much. The ultra-straight hair with superslim outfits with supersharp shapes. Some of it can be translated into real garments and look really nice and some of it is inspiration.



    There are no greater secret behind mydesigns. I just make things that I find interesting and nice at the time and that's what you get.I think draping makes an outfit more living. especially when you walk. I like to think of my design ascertain shape. And also how the things look in motion. think thats a big reason why all the things are mostly black / simple colors. For the spectator to focus at the shapes and not be distracted. My greatest inspiration to do so is music and movies.

    i love that you focus on shapes and less on colors. in my opinion, the clothing should have a life of it's own as well as work well together with the wearers physique. too much color or pattern would only take away from this or become a distraction. i really love the way you described your opinion, it is spot on with my own.

  12. #52
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    nice with a four year answer.

  13. #53
    Senior Member SHYE_POSER's Avatar
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    I went sent and saw the Aitor Legs presentation today,during LFW (cheers seenymy)
    What can i say,i was blown away! A beautiful large white space with all his mannequins suspended from the ceiling.
    It was like a sea of floating trouser wearing bodies.To see all the trousers,from the new orleans project,when hooligans become hindu gods and other projects in one space,it is an incredibly striking and strong image. You are instantly transported into the designers realm.

    Aswell as it being a retrospective of most trousers he has designed over the years,it also showcased the 3 reworked trousers taht will be available for sale in aw10.

    The workmanship,details,pattern cutting construction,every damn thing was spot on! He has by all means perfected the 3 designs imo!
    From hidden zip pockets in the calves,to pockets hidden inside pleats. THE GUY HAS SERIOUS SKILLS.

    Zamb if you saw it in person....u would fucking piss your pants!
    TBH in terms of pattern making and construction,he leaves a lot of the designers we follow here in the shade!

    Aswell as havinga really good chat with him,there are some interesting things coming in the future,and he is a proper nice bloke to boot.

    Atlast, london has a menswear designer to be very proud of,and i just hope he gets the push he needs instead of all the other non entity london based designers.
    Last edited by SHYE_POSER; 02-25-2010 at 04:07 PM. Reason: because im a tit who makes sillt typos
    merz: your look has all the grace of george michael at the tail end of a coke binge.

  14. #54
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Sounds good, Shye. Did you get to take any pix?
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  15. #55

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    it's kind of like the stone roses of fashion. when the hell will he produce some work with regularity beyond the occasional piece or collaboration.

  16. #56

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    nice shye poser
    thanks for keeping the hype alive
    excited for aw10

  17. #57
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by delirium View Post
    nice shye poser
    thanks for keeping the hype alive
    excited for aw20
    fixed
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  18. #58

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    I had a feeling that it was going to be a really good presentation. The video presentation got me even more interested in his work (http://www.aitorthroup.com/legs.html)
    Id love to see it irl... Where do you think his work will be for sale Shye?

    Talking about the rest of the menswear at LFW, it was quite a let-down so im quite bummed that i missed out on his showroom presentation...

  19. #59

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    lol. because it's a reasonable comparison or because I am a moron? I am open to both or either answer.

    maybe more like waiting for axl's next album, which went out with a whimper.


    Quote Originally Posted by merz View Post
    megalulz

  20. #60

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    fixed
    I thought I read somewhere that, for sure, some Aitor items were going to start being produced. Or was I just...dreaming.......

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