Aitor Throup

[zamb]

Concerning the pricing, what you have to consider is that Aitor is new to this, so if his stuff is really inhouse atelier production then he has to pay off for machines and all the costs he has, he wont get the fabrics as cheap as other brands that buy larger lots, everything is basically more expensive because of the small amount, less experience etc etc. Designers like BBS used the same fabric and materials on dozen of different goods, aitor doesnt as of now.

For the most part Ive stayed out of this discussion because I am somewhat sensitive towards commenting on other designers work, in certain ways, especially when it comes to pricing................This is nothing against Aitor, or even the price of his work because as far as I am concerned, designers can sell for whatever price they want to, for whatever reason they want, so long as the clients are willing to pay................

That being said, some of the reasons given to justify quality and pricing is really absurd..............take for example the problem we have with the poor quality of the soles of designer sneakers from Ann, Rick etc, the argument given is that they do such small runs that the investment to develop a strong sole is just too expensive...........well, didn't Carol just do a sneakers of which I am sure the soles are very durable? and as far as I know his production runs are smaller than they are? and his pricing only marginally higher than theirs?

the argument that in house production should be more expensive is a fallacy, designers cannot expect to charge high prices to recover the money spent on equipment, sewing machines etc, by charging higher prices to the consumer. I spent the last year and half building up a superb work studio, with all the necessary machines for me to produce everything in house, I cannot just charge higher prices in hopes of recovering the thousands it cost to tool the Studio.

of course smaller designers pay more for fabrics etc, but there are ways around that, designing like any other discipline is about problem solving, and one of the problems that must be solved is ensuring that the product is priced in a way that the clients can afford it............its either that or going out of business....................

[timberlakeld]

one of the problems that must be solved is ensuring that the product is priced in a way that the clients can afford it............its either that or going out of business....................

Yes, just simple as this, price enforced by demand and supply

[Faust]

All these pricing discussions are nonsensical. Designers will charge whatever the market will bear.

[kunk75]

^maybe i just have issue with his lack of anything but goddamned pants and the SI collaboration. I've never bitched about ccp pricing. i can get over the pricing if i can but something from him that doesn't leave me bare chested or bear chested as it were.

[mizzar]

.........
That being said, some of the reasons given to justify quality and pricing is really absurd..............take for example the problem we have with the poor quality of the soles of designer sneakers from Ann, Rick etc, the argument given is that they do such small runs that the investment to develop a strong sole is just too expensive...........well, didn't Carol just do a sneakers of which I am sure the soles are very durable? and as far as I know his production runs are smaller than they are? and his pricing only marginally higher than theirs?.........

More absurdly, even chinese fakers can do a strong fully stitched sole for their fake RO hitops.
I know that the quality of leathers or designs is not there, but the price of fakes rearly goes above 50$. So the production and development costs of a sturdy sole is not THAT high after all.
Zamb, please, correct me if i'm wrong, but i thought the biggest part of production costs (that you can count) are: materials, skills to do that garment, cost of treatment.
But you can't count the costs of designs, or uniquness, or thoughts that went in garment.
Then why there are so much words about "made in house, young designer etc"? It's so much easier to count up how much is supposedly costs to made pants or shirt, then what it takes to design it.

After all Faust is right "Designers will charge whatever the market will bear."

sorry for derailing.

[marco-von]

so who here has a in depth opinion of the trousers in person? theaddict or seenmy care to describe the craftmanship in some detail? while i like to look at pictures of mens limbs and play family fortunes on why they are priced at the price they are i'd rather get a personal insight into the construction,material etc.

I wonder if we could persuade him too do a short video for his trousers with SZ members like he did for the england away top for umbro

do a lonely man on a small island a favour.

[theaddict]

Hmmm I would live to help but I dunno if my English is good enough to praise the craftmanship. I think seenmy might be the better person for a description. I can just say that the feeling on te skin is formidable and the execution is perfect as well. There are so many little details youcant see on the pics, like little buttons and holes for them on the calf protector thingya, all the half hidden pockets and so forth. My legs are particularly skinny thus I think seenmy fit pic does them better justice than mine...
Sorry if I am not of much help...pretty drunk right now...;)

[Faust]

/\ he wanted a movie! and i want a poem! get on it!

[Fade to Black]

I applaud Aitor for managing to bring the trouser template to what is (so far) a logical omega point. It's beyond Poell, beyond Yamamoto, and if he or anybody else can take it even further then I really gotta hand it to them. The calf pocket and trumpet styles are for me the perfect idea of a trouser; I'd wear these two alternating every day if I could.

[seenmy]

I will type something up later,be prepared for multiple typos and puncuation faux pas

[seenmy]

http://www.stoneisland.co.uk/archive/modular-anatomy/page/modularanatomy/

the above link gives a visual explination of how the pants are constructed,using Aitors unique construction method. each panel is like a small pillow in construction(2 layers of fabric stitched together and then turned inside out) in the case of the trousers these are then pressed to go back to the exact shape of the pattern piece, this gives a perfect pattern piece with a edge that can be stitched to with no seam allowence needed. this process is applied to litterally every single pattern piece including even the belt loops!

The pieces are then stitched together using a stitch technique developed by his studio to allow pattern pieces to be stitched together edge to edge (no excess seam allowence) meaning there is a perfect edge inside and out with no excess anywhere on the garment making its lines as pure as possible.

Simply if you have the opportunity go and look and examine these in the flesh,every pair that left the studio has been examined to the mm and is as close to perfect as humanly possible, I think it would be hard to find a more complexly constructed garment but also the unique construction makes the seams incredibly strong due to the stitch count.there isnt anything else like this on the shelves so in my eyes you cant really compare it what anyone else is doing,

[Faust]

/\ brain explode. i need to see this.

[seenmy]

seven and barneys in your neck of the woods

[Faust]

cool, thanks.

[Marko]

That is a very interesting way to construct the pants. I suppose losing the overlaps between the panels is more important because there are so many of them to achieve his anotomic fit. Definitely something I want to check out in person.

I hope this has not already been answered, but was are the fabrics like on these pants?