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Thread: Ann Demeulemeester Retrospective

  1. #181

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    That is so awesome, thanks for sharing.

    Quote Originally Posted by thejarc View Post
    And, according to his website, her son. http://victorrobyn.com/

  2. #182

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    feel free to delete if this is a repost



    The Eccentrics, Audrey in Ann Demeulemeester by Satoshi Saikusa for Jane Magazine, august 1998

  3. #183

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    .I'll take mine in leather.


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  4. #184
    Last edited by interest1; 04-20-2013 at 04:42 AM. Reason: Better lead-in
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  5. #185

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  6. #186

  7. #187

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    I just realised a few things re: Ann tags.

    The typical format (post-2005) is
    WWW-XXXX-YYY-ZZZ

    W is the season:
    081 = S/S08
    092 = A/W09
    111 = S/S11 and so on...

    X is the design
    0075 = jewellery, earrings with chains and loope
    0109 = jewellery, feather necklace with thorns
    1010 = women's jacket, short with pleated lapels/collar and no closure
    1400 = women's trousers with spiral seam
    1411 = women's trousers, leather leggings
    1650 = women's skirt, with side buttons and topstitched waist
    2478 = women's top, simple tank with removable fringe
    2800 = women's shoes, tall triple-lace boots
    2844 = women's shoes, strapped biker boots with combat sole
    3001 = men's jacket, bomber
    3010 = men's tailored jacket (3 pockets/2 buttons/no vent)
    3016 = men's tailored jacket (2 pockets/2 + 1 buttons/single vent)
    3422 = men's trousers with no belt loops
    3800 = men's top, long tank with longer back
    3866 = men's top, long l/s with gathered funnel neck
    3901 = men's top, fitted tank with panelled vertical back seam
    3903 = men's top, fitted v-neck s/s with panelled vertical back seam
    4202 = men's shoes, sneakers with spat (sock) detail
    4226 = men's shoes, high top sneakers
    8600 = men's accessory rosette pin
    9998 = men's misc, runway presentation DVD

    Y is the fabric
    000 = probably variable 'accessories' materials: ribbon/brass
    001 = sterling silver
    112 = 50% rayon/50% acetate blend, semi-sheer
    161 = 40% wool/60% rayon jacquard with subtle rhombus pattern
    167 = wool twill, gradient herringbone print
    172 = wool twill, sewn-on pinstripe thread
    179 = 65% cotton/35% linen blend, stretchy
    190 = silk crepe, dense
    230 = 10% cashmere/rayon jersey
    233 = cotton jersey (medium weight)
    237 = 50% cotton/50% rayon microrib jersey (medium weight)
    275 = stretch calf leather
    280 = hammered lamb leather
    293 = combination of suede/goat leather (shoes)
    294 = combination of suede/calf leather (shoes)
    295 = polished stiff calf leather (shoes)

    Z is probably the specific version of the design. It is not the colourway.

    As you can see, the classification is pretty straightforward. Unfortunately none of this info is present in the garments' interior labels, making it hard to identify in any way other than the design.
    Last edited by michael_kard; 04-10-2013 at 10:54 AM.
    ENDYMA / Archival fashion & Consignment
    Helmut Lang 1986-2005 | Ann Demeulemeester | Raf Simons | Burberry Prorsum | and more...

  8. #188

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    Any thought as to why are Anns tags so varied throughout pieces? I have pieces from the same season that have different tags, slightly different fonts, some embroidered, some printed, etc.

    Thanks guys.
    Last edited by stemcell; 04-26-2013 at 08:11 PM. Reason: link issues

  9. #189
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Are you a girl, stemcell? The only variation I can think of is regular line, paper, white on black, and Collection Blanche, fabric, black on white.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  10. #190

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    Are you a girl?
    nope

  11. #191

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    just an add on to michael's post, the three digit season code also refers to the sex, ie:

    111 is mens SS11
    112 mens AW11
    113 womens SS11
    114 womens AW11

    and so on IIRC

    also i believe the first two design numbers are for style, ie jackets, trousers, shoes etc, and the second two to distinguish between each piece in the group.

    edit: also i believe the fabric codes are arbitary each season, though obviously some fabrics carry over season to season

  12. #192
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stemcell View Post
    nope
    Don't roll your eyes, how am I supposed to know The only variation I know of, as described above, is in the women's line - hence the question.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  13. #193

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    Last edited by interest1; 05-16-2013 at 11:45 PM. Reason: right photo, wrong thread
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  14. #194

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  15. #195

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    Love these details from Men's S/S10...






  16. #196

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    Ann now has a "classics" line like Blanche for Men, called Grise. You can see some pieces here, all slightly conservative/dressy basics at slightly lower prices than most mainline. The tags are greyed out which is a nice detail I think.

    http://www.farfetch.com/shopping/men...=1&pv=60&oby=5

    http://www.anndemeulemeester.be/chronology.html

    I am curious to know the country of origin, if it is all portugal, or somewhere else to achieve an even lower price.

  17. #197
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Saw it at the showroom last time. It's not like Blanche though, which are the reissues. This is just a suiting capsule. I don't quite get it to be honest.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  18. #198

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    shame it's not a blanche for men - such a thing would make me empty all my coffers, and raid those of my friends & family, to secure all the precious grails i've missed over the years [ed: well, from SS06 through FW09].

    i'll go back to dreaming now.

    -

  19. #199
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    You and me, buddy, you and me. (only shift mine to 03-06)
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  20. #200

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    It's not like Blanche though, which are the reissues.
    True, so perhaps a Noir next fall

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