Ann Demeulemeester Retrospective

[stemcell]

That is so awesome, thanks for sharing.

And, according to his website, her son. http://victorrobyn.com/

[safeword123]

feel free to delete if this is a repost



The Eccentrics, Audrey in Ann Demeulemeester by Satoshi Saikusa for Jane Magazine, august 1998

[interest1]

.I'll take mine in leather.

[interest1]

color

[interest1]

[BLK+WHT]

[michael_kard]

I just realised a few things re: Ann tags.

The typical format (post-2005) is
WWW-XXXX-YYY-ZZZ

W is the season:
081 = S/S08
092 = A/W09
111 = S/S11 and so on...

X is the design
0075 = jewellery, earrings with chains and loope
0109 = jewellery, feather necklace with thorns
1010 = women's jacket, short with pleated lapels/collar and no closure
1400 = women's trousers with spiral seam
1411 = women's trousers, leather leggings
1650 = women's skirt, with side buttons and topstitched waist
2478 = women's top, simple tank with removable fringe
2800 = women's shoes, tall triple-lace boots
2844 = women's shoes, strapped biker boots with combat sole
3001 = men's jacket, bomber
3010 = men's tailored jacket (3 pockets/2 buttons/no vent)
3016 = men's tailored jacket (2 pockets/2 + 1 buttons/single vent)
3422 = men's trousers with no belt loops
3800 = men's top, long tank with longer back
3866 = men's top, long l/s with gathered funnel neck
3901 = men's top, fitted tank with panelled vertical back seam
3903 = men's top, fitted v-neck s/s with panelled vertical back seam
4202 = men's shoes, sneakers with spat (sock) detail
4226 = men's shoes, high top sneakers
8600 = men's accessory rosette pin
9998 = men's misc, runway presentation DVD

Y is the fabric
000 = probably variable 'accessories' materials: ribbon/brass
001 = sterling silver
112 = 50% rayon/50% acetate blend, semi-sheer
161 = 40% wool/60% rayon jacquard with subtle rhombus pattern
167 = wool twill, gradient herringbone print
172 = wool twill, sewn-on pinstripe thread
179 = 65% cotton/35% linen blend, stretchy
190 = silk crepe, dense
230 = 10% cashmere/rayon jersey
233 = cotton jersey (medium weight)
237 = 50% cotton/50% rayon microrib jersey (medium weight)
275 = stretch calf leather
280 = hammered lamb leather
293 = combination of suede/goat leather (shoes)
294 = combination of suede/calf leather (shoes)
295 = polished stiff calf leather (shoes)

Z is probably the specific version of the design. It is not the colourway.

As you can see, the classification is pretty straightforward. Unfortunately none of this info is present in the garments' interior labels, making it hard to identify in any way other than the design.

[stemcell]

Any thought as to why are Anns tags so varied throughout pieces? I have pieces from the same season that have different tags, slightly different fonts, some embroidered, some printed, etc.

Thanks guys.

[Faust]

Are you a girl, stemcell? The only variation I can think of is regular line, paper, white on black, and Collection Blanche, fabric, black on white.

[stemcell]

Are you a girl?

nope

[andrew]

just an add on to michael's post, the three digit season code also refers to the sex, ie:

111 is mens SS11
112 mens AW11
113 womens SS11
114 womens AW11

and so on IIRC

also i believe the first two design numbers are for style, ie jackets, trousers, shoes etc, and the second two to distinguish between each piece in the group.

edit: also i believe the fabric codes are arbitary each season, though obviously some fabrics carry over season to season

[Faust]

nope

Don't roll your eyes, how am I supposed to know The only variation I know of, as described above, is in the women's line - hence the question.

[interest1]

[interest1]

[Bson]

Love these details from Men's S/S10...

[stemcell]

Ann now has a "classics" line like Blanche for Men, called Grise. You can see some pieces here, all slightly conservative/dressy basics at slightly lower prices than most mainline. The tags are greyed out which is a nice detail I think.

http://www.farfetch.com/shopping/men...=1&pv=60&oby=5

http://www.anndemeulemeester.be/chronology.html

I am curious to know the country of origin, if it is all portugal, or somewhere else to achieve an even lower price.

[Faust]

Saw it at the showroom last time. It's not like Blanche though, which are the reissues. This is just a suiting capsule. I don't quite get it to be honest.

[curiouscharles]

shame it's not a blanche for men - such a thing would make me empty all my coffers, and raid those of my friends & family, to secure all the precious grails i've missed over the years [ed: well, from SS06 through FW09].

i'll go back to dreaming now.

[Faust]

You and me, buddy, you and me. (only shift mine to 03-06)

[stemcell]

It's not like Blanche though, which are the reissues.

True, so perhaps a Noir next fall