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  • laika
    moderator
    • Sep 2006
    • 3787

    #16
    Re: Yohji Yamamoto



    Thanks for the gorgeous portrait, Buckwheat.



    Another one I like:





    [H]

    ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

    Comment

    • Buckwheat
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2006
      • 409

      #17
      Re: Yohji Yamamoto



      you are welcome Avantster and Laika.




      Nqth - would love to see your photo.




      Laika - have you seenYohji's karate video on Youtube? In that video there is also a segment where he collaborated with Choreographer Pina Bausch, which Yohji designed the costumes. There's also an interview in an old i-D magazine that talks about Yohji and the collboration. Pretty cool :)



      Comment

      • laika
        moderator
        • Sep 2006
        • 3787

        #18
        Re: Yohji Yamamoto



        I haven't seen either of those things, Buckwheat! Do you have any links?



        I can't remember if I have posted this before, but here is Yohji's new flagship site in the Meatpacking district. They've just begun construction (there is a big red wall around the building now [64]) and are aiming to open in November. I can't imagine a more perfect building or location for Yohji! And oh dear, it's just a ten minute walk from my place.... [67]







        ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

        Comment

        • Buckwheat
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2006
          • 409

          #19
          Re: Yohji Yamamoto



          Here is the link to the video.




          The new Yohji store looks great. I better wait after Novemeber to visit NYC then :)




          Laika - did you end up getting that Yohji top from Luisaviaroma?

          Comment

          • Buckwheat
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 409

            #20
            Re: Yohji Yamamoto



            You can see more photos of Yohji and his works here by Donata Wenders (well guess who's wife she is :)




            she also photographed Pina Bausch I mentioned earlier. Probably wearing Yohji's clothes too :)




            Laika - I have that i-D magazine on Yohji's interview. Just have to find some time to scan it. It's a fairly long article.

            Comment

            • nqth
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 350

              #21
              Re: Yohji Yamamoto

              I think he will open a new store in Paris as well. In rue Cambon.

              Comment

              • Johnny
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2006
                • 1923

                #22
                Re: Yohji Yamamoto



                thats interesting nqth, thanks for letting us know. i liked his left bank store, but have never liked the right bank one - it's pretty aggresive, and intimidating. very few clothes around, grumpy staff. (Once they wouldn't let me go upstairs where I could see they had the Y's collection out, whereas downstairs they only had about 4 jackets - literally; sometimes they need to remember that they're just selling clothes....).





                by the way - did you ever find out about those junya shoes?

                Comment

                • Avantster
                  ¤¤¤
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 1983

                  #23
                  Re: Yohji Yamamoto



                  Now that's a good picture, Laika! Here's two that I also like.
                  And naturally do show us a picture of the new store when the construction is complete!











                  Buckwheat I had no idea Wim Wender's wife is a photographer! Some great pictures on that site.
                  let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

                  Comment

                  • laika
                    moderator
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 3787

                    #24
                    Re: Yohji Yamamoto

                    [quote user="Avantster"]

                    Great thread guys, I would love the keep the discussion going.
                    These are just some of my initial/random thoughts that I just wanted to get out there. I'll try and fix them up properly tomorrow.



                    As with most of the others have said, conceptually, I love his clothing. However when it comes to wearing it I find myself a little torn.
                    For me, personally, Yohji's clothes are more about how it makes you feel, rather than look. I find that his clothing gives the wearer a sense of air and ease about them self. But to wear them really well, I think first the wearer has to have that sense of comfort and ease already in themselves. Almost to the point where the wearer must cast away their unhealthy desires and be able to wholly embrace themselves. Which to me hints at an attitude linked to Buddhism and Zen.



                    I find myself struggling between these two at times. I do have a cardigan, blazer and linen 'mc-hammer' pants which I adore and get much wear out of. However I have a boxy jacket which feels like heaven but I am just not comfortable enough wearing because I guess it makes me look ridiculously short and wide. But in ten, fifteen years perhaps? I think I will be able to break through those things that are stopping me from wearing it now...





                    And by the way, Buckwheat, thank you for the picture.



                    [/quote]



                    Very interesting.....thanks for sharing that. [51]



                    I think there is a kind of double effect with the clothes--they do require a certain level of comfort and "letting go," as you're suggesting; but they also bring out a sensation of ease in the wearer. The serenity that Faust is describing....it seems to me that it has to do with letting go of "fashion" and self-image and experiencing the sensation of wearing, living, and moving in your clothes. It is no wonder that Yohji has collaborated so successfully with dancers, as opposed to Rei, who, (in at least one collaboration that I know of), is more interested in imposing constraint with her clothes. I was thinking about this while trying on clothes at CDG this weekend. There is something almost fascistic about the way that Comme deals (or doesn't deal) with the body, as if the garments were intended either to take the wearer out of their comfort zone, or to disregard the wearer altogether. To put it another way, CDG clothes are all about CDG clothes, whereas Yohji's garments are deeply concerned with, and committed to, the human form.



                    I find both approaches conceptually fascinating, although I tend to feel a bit resentful/rebellious when I sense that something is being imposed on me. Both designers technically work well for my body, probably because of the Japanese sizing. But I feel less self-conscious and [paradoxically?] more myself when I wear Yohji.

                    ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37852

                      #25
                      Re: Yohji Yamamoto

                      /\ I like your post, Laika - thank you. You describe it beautifully, and I think you are spot on about Rei - from the start she was not content with human anatomy for whatever reason (see the "humps" collection). I think Yohji has deepest respect for human form. I remember in the documentary him saying something like this, "I see the woman, with her shoes, and her stocking and the back line of the stockings, and I realize she is so beautiful, I can do nothing for her." [64]
                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

                      • ddohnggo
                        Senior Member
                        • Oct 2006
                        • 4477

                        #26
                        Re: Yohji Yamamoto



                        but does one really have to adhere to a designers vision? i know that yohji's silhouette is generally a bit relaxed oversized, but i'm sure if you really like yohji's clothing and admire his designs, you could find a piece a few sizes smaller to have it fit with your overall aesthetic.

                        Did you get and like the larger dick?

                        Comment

                        • Faust
                          kitsch killer
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 37852

                          #27
                          Re: Yohji Yamamoto

                          [quote user="ddohnggo"]

                          but does one really have to adhere to a designers vision? i know that yohji's silhouette is generally a bit relaxed oversized, but i'm sure if you really like yohji's clothing and admire his designs, you could find a piece a few sizes smaller to have it fit with your overall aesthetic.



                          [/quote]



                          Not really. If the jacket is cut loose in the body but fits you well in the shoulders, what are you going to do (besides tailoring it)?

                          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                          Comment

                          • laika
                            moderator
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 3787

                            #28
                            Re: Yohji Yamamoto



                            ^I agree with Faust that sizing down is usually not a practical strategy. Also, wearing the clothes smaller can alter their proportions and the way they move in ways that may not be desirable.



                            But I agree too that it is absolutely not necessary to dress according to the designer's vision. It's actually very easy with Yohji's clothes--i.e., the super voluminous pants/skirts with slim knits on top; or a big coat with sleek boots. Works well for me, although the contrasting silhouette may not be tune with what is currently fashionable in menswear. [61]

                            ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

                            Comment

                            • ddohnggo
                              Senior Member
                              • Oct 2006
                              • 4477

                              #29
                              Re: Yohji Yamamoto



                              yeah, i didn't mean that as a catch-all solution. i guess i was speaking to garments that are just oversized i.e. some ann d shirts that could be worn in smaller sizes that circumvent the general vision she had for that piece.



                              i know that blackforest mentioned in another thread a while ago about how he modified a cdiem shirt and got compliments for it. albert's modification of the linea jumpsuit is also great too.



                              i myself probably wouldn't do any major alterations to a piece, but it's still an option that could have really great results.

                              Did you get and like the larger dick?

                              Comment

                              • nqth
                                Senior Member
                                • Sep 2006
                                • 350

                                #30
                                Re: Yohji Yamamoto

                                [quote user="laika"]


                                I think there is a kind of double effect with the clothes--they do require a certain level of comfort and "letting go," as you're suggesting; but they also bring out a sensation of ease in the wearer. The serenity that Faust is describing....it seems to me that it has to do with letting go of "fashion" and self-image and experiencing the sensation of wearing, living, and moving in your clothes. It is no wonder that Yohji has collaborated so successfully with dancers, as opposed to Rei, who, (in at least one collaboration that I know of), is more interested in imposing constraint with her clothes. I was thinking about this while trying on clothes at CDG this weekend. There is something almost fascistic about the way that Comme deals (or doesn't deal) with the body, as if the garments were intended either to take the wearer out of their comfort zone, or to disregard the wearer altogether. To put it another way, CDG clothes are all about CDG clothes, whereas Yohji's garments are deeply concerned with, and committed to, the human form.




                                I find both approaches conceptually fascinating, although I tend to feel a bit resentful/rebellious when I sense that something is being imposed on me. Both designers technically work well for my body, probably because of the Japanese sizing. But I feel less self-conscious and [paradoxically?] more myself when I wear Yohji.




                                [/quote]




                                I had a talk lately with a Polish fashion designer about European and Japanese designers.I said about the sharp elegance and "armour" ppl wear going to Comme show. She said the Europeans dress for looking beautiful in general (ok, let get VW and her children out of here) but the Japanenes are indeed making kind of "armour":-) - ignoring body, hard to wear, strange fabrics, not very comfortable... This might be bc of the culture, the theater ... that Japanese designers might be under influence. She stated thatEuropeans can never make clothes that way, this is out of their thinking.




                                It's very interesting:-) A friend of mine, a Japanese girl also said that you have to suffer in Comme clothes:-)) (talking about shoes).




                                In that point of view RK is kind of "more Japanese" than YY and even IM don't your think:-)




                                I am wondering what SZ members from Japan are thinking about this? Please contribute your opinions:-)




                                Buckwheat, it's him:-)





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