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Thread: Yohji Yamamoto

  1. #21
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto

    I think he will open a new store in Paris as well. In rue Cambon.

  2. #22

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto



    thats interesting nqth, thanks for letting us know. i liked his left bank store, but have never liked the right bank one - it's pretty aggresive, and intimidating. very few clothes around, grumpy staff. (Once they wouldn't let me go upstairs where I could see they had the Y's collection out, whereas downstairs they only had about 4 jackets - literally; sometimes they need to remember that they're just selling clothes....).





    by the way - did you ever find out about those junya shoes?


  3. #23

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto



    Now that's a good picture, Laika! Here's two that I also like.
    And naturally do show us a picture of the new store when the construction is complete!











    Buckwheat I had no idea Wim Wender's wife is a photographer! Some great pictures on that site.
    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  4. #24

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto

    [quote user="Avantster"]

    Great thread guys, I would love the keep the discussion going.
    These are just some of my initial/random thoughts that I just wanted to get out there. I'll try and fix them up properly tomorrow.



    As with most of the others have said, conceptually, I love his clothing. However when it comes to wearing it I find myself a little torn.
    For me, personally, Yohji's clothes are more about how it makes you feel, rather than look. I find that his clothing gives the wearer a sense of air and ease about them self. But to wear them really well, I think first the wearer has to have that sense of comfort and ease already in themselves. Almost to the point where the wearer must cast away their unhealthy desires and be able to wholly embrace themselves. Which to me hints at an attitude linked to Buddhism and Zen.



    I find myself struggling between these two at times. I do have a cardigan, blazer and linen 'mc-hammer' pants which I adore and get much wear out of. However I have a boxy jacket which feels like heaven but I am just not comfortable enough wearing because I guess it makes me look ridiculously short and wide. But in ten, fifteen years perhaps? I think I will be able to break through those things that are stopping me from wearing it now...





    And by the way, Buckwheat, thank you for the picture.



    [/quote]



    Very interesting.....thanks for sharing that. [51]



    I think there is a kind of double effect with the clothes--they do require a certain level of comfort and "letting go," as you're suggesting; but they also bring out a sensation of ease in the wearer. The serenity that Faust is describing....it seems to me that it has to do with letting go of "fashion" and self-image and experiencing the sensation of wearing, living, and moving in your clothes. It is no wonder that Yohji has collaborated so successfully with dancers, as opposed to Rei, who, (in at least one collaboration that I know of), is more interested in imposing constraint with her clothes. I was thinking about this while trying on clothes at CDG this weekend. There is something almost fascistic about the way that Comme deals (or doesn't deal) with the body, as if the garments were intended either to take the wearer out of their comfort zone, or to disregard the wearer altogether. To put it another way, CDG clothes are all about CDG clothes, whereas Yohji's garments are deeply concerned with, and committed to, the human form.



    I find both approaches conceptually fascinating, although I tend to feel a bit resentful/rebellious when I sense that something is being imposed on me. Both designers technically work well for my body, probably because of the Japanese sizing. But I feel less self-conscious and [paradoxically?] more myself when I wear Yohji.

    ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

  5. #25
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto

    /\ I like your post, Laika - thank you. You describe it beautifully, and I think you are spot on about Rei - from the start she was not content with human anatomy for whatever reason (see the "humps" collection). I think Yohji has deepest respect for human form. I remember in the documentary him saying something like this, "I see the woman, with her shoes, and her stocking and the back line of the stockings, and I realize she is so beautiful, I can do nothing for her." [64]
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  6. #26
    Senior Member ddohnggo's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto



    but does one really have to adhere to a designers vision? i know that yohji's silhouette is generally a bit relaxed oversized, but i'm sure if you really like yohji's clothing and admire his designs, you could find a piece a few sizes smaller to have it fit with your overall aesthetic.

    Did you get and like the larger dick?

  7. #27
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto

    [quote user="ddohnggo"]

    but does one really have to adhere to a designers vision? i know that yohji's silhouette is generally a bit relaxed oversized, but i'm sure if you really like yohji's clothing and admire his designs, you could find a piece a few sizes smaller to have it fit with your overall aesthetic.



    [/quote]



    Not really. If the jacket is cut loose in the body but fits you well in the shoulders, what are you going to do (besides tailoring it)?

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  8. #28

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto



    ^I agree with Faust that sizing down is usually not a practical strategy. Also, wearing the clothes smaller can alter their proportions and the way they move in ways that may not be desirable.



    But I agree too that it is absolutely not necessary to dress according to the designer's vision. It's actually very easy with Yohji's clothes--i.e., the super voluminous pants/skirts with slim knits on top; or a big coat with sleek boots. Works well for me, although the contrasting silhouette may not be tune with what is currently fashionable in menswear. [61]

    ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

  9. #29
    Senior Member ddohnggo's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto



    yeah, i didn't mean that as a catch-all solution. i guess i was speaking to garments that are just oversized i.e. some ann d shirts that could be worn in smaller sizes that circumvent the general vision she had for that piece.



    i know that blackforest mentioned in another thread a while ago about how he modified a cdiem shirt and got compliments for it. albert's modification of the linea jumpsuit is also great too.



    i myself probably wouldn't do any major alterations to a piece, but it's still an option that could have really great results.

    Did you get and like the larger dick?

  10. #30
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto

    [quote user="laika"]


    I think there is a kind of double effect with the clothes--they do require a certain level of comfort and "letting go," as you're suggesting; but they also bring out a sensation of ease in the wearer. The serenity that Faust is describing....it seems to me that it has to do with letting go of "fashion" and self-image and experiencing the sensation of wearing, living, and moving in your clothes. It is no wonder that Yohji has collaborated so successfully with dancers, as opposed to Rei, who, (in at least one collaboration that I know of), is more interested in imposing constraint with her clothes. I was thinking about this while trying on clothes at CDG this weekend. There is something almost fascistic about the way that Comme deals (or doesn't deal) with the body, as if the garments were intended either to take the wearer out of their comfort zone, or to disregard the wearer altogether. To put it another way, CDG clothes are all about CDG clothes, whereas Yohji's garments are deeply concerned with, and committed to, the human form.




    I find both approaches conceptually fascinating, although I tend to feel a bit resentful/rebellious when I sense that something is being imposed on me. Both designers technically work well for my body, probably because of the Japanese sizing. But I feel less self-conscious and [paradoxically?] more myself when I wear Yohji.




    [/quote]




    I had a talk lately with a Polish fashion designer about European and Japanese designers.I said about the sharp elegance and "armour" ppl wear going to Comme show. She said the Europeans dress for looking beautiful in general (ok, let get VW and her children out of here) but the Japanenes are indeed making kind of "armour":-) - ignoring body, hard to wear, strange fabrics, not very comfortable... This might be bc of the culture, the theater ... that Japanese designers might be under influence. She stated thatEuropeans can never make clothes that way, this is out of their thinking.




    It's very interesting:-) A friend of mine, a Japanese girl also said that you have to suffer in Comme clothes:-)) (talking about shoes).




    In that point of view RK is kind of "more Japanese" than YY and even IM don't your think:-)




    I am wondering what SZ members from Japan are thinking about this? Please contribute your opinions:-)




    Buckwheat, it's him:-)






  11. #31
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto

    Funny you should say this, nqth - Yohji's clothes have never struck me as Japanese, but old European. In Notebooks on Cities and Clothes he shows the old photo books of professional men that he draws inspiration from, they were all European. So, in that sense I fully agree.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  12. #32
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto

    from hintmag.com

    Little-known black belt Yohji Yamamoto
    is karate chopping a swath through retail, store by freestanding store.
    First to bow (as early as next month) is a 10,300-square-foot space in
    Antwerp?his largest yet?that will occupy the same galleries as his
    Dream Shop exhibition last year at Mondenatie (home to MoMu museum and
    the Flanders Fashion Institute). The complete empire will be available,
    from his signature main lines to Y's and Y's Mandarina, with special
    sections set up for his daughter Limi's new label, Limi Feu, and his
    new Stormy Weather pearl collaboration with Mikimoto. Yamamoto's new
    Paris store, meanwhile, will launch in the fall, while his long-awaited
    Meatpacking store in New York has been pushed back to spring 08.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  13. #33

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto



    Wow! Yohji is quite on the spending spree; I love it.I just hope he doesn't go too far... I'd hate to see the headline, "Yohji Yamamoto signs with Ittierre for production of "Yohji Jeans" diffusion" or the release of a fresh, sporty, clean new fragrance, "Yohji Sport," designed to target Acqua di Gio!




    Just kidding; I have a lot more respect for Yohji and know he wouldn't do that. I can't wait for these projects to be completed and, hopefully, have the chance to check them out (only now are his cotton pants going to cost $800, instead of $500?) ;)


  14. #34

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto

    Yohji had a lot of success last season with his women's collection - a lot of pieces sold out at full retail. His new luggage line should help fund a lot of these new construction ventures. I think I'm going to plan my first trip to Antwerp when his new store is finished.

  15. #35

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto



    Yesterday I visited Antwerp and saw construction workers working hard on the Yohji Yamamoto boutique. It seems that it will open by the end of this month / during October. I hope it will live up to my expectations.....




    WIll keep you updated on its status.




    Divo


  16. #36

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto



    I was reading some of the great earlier discussion (comparing and contrasting Yohji and CDG). While I am not that familiar with Yohji's clothes (more so with CDG), I have really grown to admire how his clothes fit. I was wondering if you would you say that throughout the years, Yohji has maintained the same fit/shape of his clothing and has progressed artistically as a designer by concentrating on the external surface look of his clothes? (I don't mean this negatively at all).



    For example would it be fair to say that clothing from the lates 80s made by Yohji, while externally looking different to his current line (different fabric, exterior design and decoration, and perhaps thematic presentation), is rooted in a very similar architecture and structure on how it hangs/formed to the body.



    Like Laika and others were mentioning before, CDG (like many other contemporary designers) are all about playing with the structure of clothing (in both restrictive and additive ways), but when I look at Yohji, all of his clothes seem to have a cohesive architecture.


  17. #37
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto

    I think overall you could say this, Seventh. BTW, Yohji's work is consistently referred to as architectural - you are right on. [73]
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  18. #38

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto

    I was trying to think of other designers who work in a similar method to Yohji... Not necessarily similar designs to him but similar consistency of form throughout the years. I couldn't think of any, well, maybe branquinho, but it is a stretch...

  19. #39

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto

    in terms of lines, it's kind of interesting also to note that Y's was his first line before Yohji Yamamoto--but Y's today seems to have its own (quieter) identity, separate from the Yohji line which receives more attention from the media? personally i really enjoyed browsing and trying on the Y's pieces; they're really interesting to touch and wear.

  20. #40

    Default The Yohji World



    Between the new lines and old ones that pop up on Ebay I am completely confused at all the lines that Yamamoto has. It adds to the difficulty that there is no consistency in sizing:



    I remember that someone (goethe?) posted a CDG world, showing how all the lines interlink. Can we create something like that for Yohji?

    What does the line specialize in, sizing and price-point.



    So far I have seen [:O] (and I am sure there is more):

    Yohji Yamamoto pour Homme
    Yohji Yamamoto Jeans pour Homme
    Yohji Yamamoto Costume D'Homme
    Y-3
    Y's for Men
    Y's
    Gothic Yohji Yamamoto
    Yohji Yamamoto Noir
    Yohji Yamamoto Addidas





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