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  • teeteet
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2009
    • 111

    The linen pieces are durable. However, they do not drape as well.

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    • woundedglamour
      Junior Member
      • Mar 2011
      • 7

      Some eighties Yohji.

      1982


      1985

      Comment

      • surver
        Senior Member
        • Oct 2007
        • 638

        Last edited by surver; 08-20-2012, 04:02 AM.

        Comment

        • 333
          Senior Member
          • Apr 2012
          • 101

          Originally posted by surver View Post
          Kudos, Kung fu master.

          Your ninjas are here to await your command.

          Comment

          • kagitsune
            Member
            • Nov 2010
            • 48

            Originally posted by 333 View Post
            Hi everyone. Am a newbie in this forum or any "style" forum for the matter. Been enjoying what I read and see in this forum and decide to join the conversations.

            I like Yohji Yamamoto designs even before I realize it was him.

            I am a fan of Takeshi Kitano's film. I always find the unconventional fit of the yakuza's suit very interesting. Something draw me to it every time I watch those films. And of course the costumes in "Zatoichi" was amazing. Only early this year i realize they were by Yamamoto. Having browse many of the looks in the net and this thread, I am beginning to entertain the idea of entering into the perilous waters of buying some from YYPH. Been looking through my wardrobe and gadgets looking to things I can sell to gather more funds. Been spending hours on the net looking through many of the past seasons collection. I am on the verge of being an addict. I have always been interested in clothes and culture but never consider myself a fashionista or been interested in many labels. Usually I wear engineered garments with a bit of Junya Watanabe and Paul Harnden. But I'm in a strong leaning to giving my wardrobe a "paradigm shift".
            This post just makes me happy. :) It reminds me of how I felt when I was introduced to his work. Before then, I'd only been into Harajuku-based lolita/street wear brands. Totally changed my design aesthetic. Found out that I'd already been loving his designs out of "Dolls". :D

            Yohji makes you work for his clothes. Right now I'm wearing the first YY piece I bought - a second-hand Y's cut-and-sew knit jacket (men's judging from the button placement) with unfinished edges. I wear the dang thing every day the temperature goes below 80F. I was in college and I had no money, so I sold a thrifted fox fur capelet to Buffalo exchange to make the $40 the flea market seller was asking for. (OT, but if you live in the NYC area, check out The Garage flea market on 25th st. between 6th and 7th aves. Ask around for Karen or Ziggy, they know their stuff and Karen always has something incredible).

            Anyway, I've stuffed this jacket under and over thick shirts and heavy jackets, and it's only ever torn at the underarms (easy fix) a couple times. I've built half my wardrobe around it. And it's great for almost every situation.

            I only want a better-paying job so I can buy more yohji... xD
            Originally posted by Yohji Yamamoto, on his second Paris show
            From the next collection it became a war. I didn't want a war but too much attack made me fight.' And you are a good fighter, I say, referring to his black belt in karate. 'I am,' he nods.

            Comment

            • surver
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2007
              • 638

              yohji interview

              saw this interview posted by dantebykiko on styleforum (not sure of original source); some pretty insightful points (as usual):
              After your Y-3 10th anniversary show in New York, you said that “in the world right now, fashion is s–t.” Can you elaborate on what you meant by that?
              Let me talk like an old man. Young people, be careful. Beautiful things are disappearing every day. Be careful.…You don’t need to be [shopping at fast-fashion stores], especially young people. They are beautiful naturally, because they are young. So they should even wear simple jeans and a T-shirt. It’s enough. Don’t be too much fashionable.…The brand advertising is making you crazy. You don’t need to be too sexy. You are sexy enough.

              How are you finding life, working as a designer under your fashion house’s new owners, Integral Corp.?
              Being a designer, it became easier mentally, because the business part became very strong. So I don’t need to take care about business like before.

              So you feel more freedom to just concentrate on designing?
              Concentrate, yeah, for creativity.

              But is Integral pressuring you in any way to be creative in a certain way that makes commercial sense for them?
              I’ve got total freedom. If I feel [like I’m in a] cage, I’m a little bird in the cage, I would quit.

              How far along is the company’s restructuring process at this point?
              It was so quick. If I look back, I was very much concentrated to create new collections each time. It is already three years ago.

              So you think the company is in a good place?
              Yeah.

              Are you concerned at all about Integral selling the company, possibly to someone you don’t like?
              I don’t care. If I stop designing, this company loses value. It becomes nothing.

              So do you think you will continue designing for many more years?
              I have no idea about retiring life. Should I live in the countryside, fishing or planting vegetables, playing with dogs? I can’t imagine it. It must be so boring.

              Instead you’d rather continue to think about designing?
              Yes. My ideal feeling is that I suddenly fall down during making clothing.

              What do you think about the current political tensions between Japan and China?
              I was born as a son of war, so in my heart, the war didn’t ever finish…[when I think about Japanese aggression during the war] I go sinking in the deep darkness.…Right after the Second [World] War, [Germany acknowledged its remorse to the Jewish people]. It was an apology. So Germany did it, but Japan didn’t do anything. We lost a chance to apologize.

              Do you think the situation will ever change?
              I think there are two ways of dealing with each other. One way is economic collaboration. Without this collaboration, Japan and China cannot go forward. The other side is very political. When China has an interior problem, like a problem between rich people and poor people, then they’ve got a big problem, they start shouting anti-Japan. It’s very political, to calm people down.

              So it’s basically being used as a distraction?
              Yes. We cannot go further without each other. The relationship has become deep already.

              Are these problems having an impact on your business and that of other Japanese designers in China?
              Not yet. For a very, very long time, China has been a [manufacturing center] for world brands, but now China has become a big market for big brands. So China has both powers.

              Do you think future generations of Japanese leaders could make a more serious apology?
              I don’t know. But the most clear situation in Japan is we are losing real leadership. We have no courage.…They should be more educated. At least a leader of [a country] in the modern world, they should speak English because English is the world language.

              So they aren’t international enough?
              No.

              Going back to fashion, there really haven’t been any Japanese designers recently who have made it in a big way internationally, at least at the level of yourself, Rei Kawakubo or Issey Miyake. Why do you think that is?
              In the Japanese market, department stores, they don’t give young designers space, and the specialty stores, they don’t buy young designers’ merchandise. Naturally, young designers don’t have space to sell in the world, so they cannot grow up. [Even when they get orders] they cannot get paid. They have no power to push [retailers] to pay back, so young designers have to have sort of a selling machine, a system. Sometimes I think to myself, Maybe [my company] can help young designers by using this company’s machine system, logistics and power.

              Would you like to do more of that in the future, helping young designers?
              Yes, I’m thinking about it.

              What was different for you when you were starting out as a designer?
              Japanese young designers’ creation has become like stylists’ creation. I don’t feel envy.…It’s luck of the power of creativity, because they graduate from design university, fashion university, art university. They get nourished about very academic creativity, but they don’t have creativity from here [gestures to his heart]…soulful.

              And you think that is a particular issue with the Japanese designers?
              No, not only Japanese. Everybody. We are losing those young people because we have too much information by media, especially [through computers]. We can see everything at the same time, so already they are spoiled too much. So when we have talk sessions with young designers or students, I tell them: “Be bright. Your eyes have become dirty.”

              Comment

              • Faust
                kitsch killer
                • Sep 2006
                • 37852

                Original source is WWD
                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                Comment

                • surver
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2007
                  • 638

                  Originally posted by Faust View Post
                  Original source is WWD
                  merci :)

                  i thought there're a few points that are pretty good especially as advice/precaution to today's young people who often has too little patience/grounding for things... i know i know, this comment might open up a huge can of worms ;P

                  Comment

                  • kagitsune
                    Member
                    • Nov 2010
                    • 48

                    Originally posted by surver View Post
                    merci :)

                    i thought there're a few points that are pretty good especially as advice/precaution to today's young people who often has too little patience/grounding for things... i know i know, this comment might open up a huge can of worms ;P
                    Actually, I agree. I'm a young designer too, and I have a hard time breaking away from "market realities" when designing sometimes. I feel like I was much more creative before I went to design school. I don't feel spoiled so much as overwhelmed by the deluge of images and information.

                    This reminds me of something I heard Isabel Toledo (surprised I don't see more about her around here) say at a talk: "Stay in your own bubble for as long as you can before breaking into the market. When you absorb your own, personal, niche culture, you'll bring something to the market that no-one else can."

                    Sometimes I feel a little weird about staying in this little architectural/dark style bubble, but I guess it's okay considering the company I'm keeping (go Yohji ).

                    And that'd be so freaking cool if YY started to sponsor and distribute young designers. It'd be like the comme universe, but more like an incubator than an "army".
                    Originally posted by Yohji Yamamoto, on his second Paris show
                    From the next collection it became a war. I didn't want a war but too much attack made me fight.' And you are a good fighter, I say, referring to his black belt in karate. 'I am,' he nods.

                    Comment

                    • mrbeuys
                      Senior Member
                      • May 2008
                      • 2313

                      I guess we're not bothering with SS13? Bit of a mess innit?
                      Hi. I like your necklace. - It's actually a rape whistle, but the whistle part fell off.

                      Comment

                      • shah
                        Senior Member
                        • Jul 2009
                        • 512

                        oh ? i love all the color it has ... and the ballooning volume that gets tied down on so many of the trousers, a different take on the jellyfish hakamas that moved as though suspended in the air

                        Comment

                        • fireflygrave
                          Member
                          • Aug 2012
                          • 66

                          Originally posted by mrbeuys View Post
                          I guess we're not bothering with SS13? Bit of a mess innit?
                          Admittedly I haven't looked much at the PH stuff yet, but I thought the women's stuff was gorgeous. Really flowing and dramatic but still looked natural and wearable.
                          put a tiger in your tank

                          Comment

                          • valter
                            Junior Member
                            • Jul 2011
                            • 1

                            YYPH SS13 was definitely good, but not so strong as the other YYPH collections have lately been (everything from AW10 to AW12 have been simply outstanding in my opinion).

                            I found the way the jackets fitted the runway models quite off-putting. Sleeves were generally way too short for my taste and shoulders too fitting. I just prefer the old school oversized Yohji-fit.

                            I'm really waiting to see some of the pieces in wool gabardine. I managed to check couple of pieces straight after the runway presentation, and I must say I wasn't too exited about the cotton fabrics mostly used on the garments. But then again, wool gabardine is always my fabric of choice.

                            Comment

                            • kkr
                              Junior Member
                              • Oct 2011
                              • 4

                              Originally posted by kagitsune View Post
                              This reminds me of something I heard Isabel Toledo (surprised I don't see more about her around here) say at a talk: "Stay in your own bubble for as long as you can before breaking into the market. When you absorb your own, personal, niche culture, you'll bring something to the market that no-one else can."
                              That's a really great point. It's so easy today to just mine the image archives rather than find your own internal voice. I'm a graphic designer and it's tempting to just look thru catalogs of past work for inspiration rather than dream of something new.

                              Go Yohji.

                              Comment

                              • tron
                                Senior Member
                                • Dec 2010
                                • 485

                                I'm still trying to find Yohji Yamamoto - This Is My Dream online. I've tried searching high and low and I'm getting to the point where I'm considering just dropping the 8,600y to buy the damn DVD... which I really can't afford at this point. If anyone has a link I would be eternally grateful
                                "I think perfection is ugly. Somewhere in the things humans make, I want to see scars, failure, disorder, distortion."

                                Comment

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