On the heels of Laika's suggestion I want to kick off this thread.
I don't know exactly how to name these brands, most are called "streetwear" but its not an accurate definition. I like to call them Co-Op brands, because Barneys Co-Op unites them pretty well - you'll see Rogan, Rag & Bone next to Acne and Nudie, Edun next to Marc by Marc Jacobs, as well as Tsubi, Ksubi, Woobie, Doobie and so on.
Given a good amount of posters who x-post on SuFu I think it would be an interesting discussion. How do you judge these labels, what's your criteria of choice, and so on? Who do you think is the real deal? Obviously True Religion is not like Wings & Horns, etc.
From what I've seen (and I am no expert in it, I think people who know denim well know much more than I do), I think Rag & Bone takes the cake. I think they have graduated from making jeans (and good ones at that) into more interesting tailored clothes, well constructed and well made. I think something like Rogan has never delivered and was all hype to begin with (does anyone still buy that?), although he has spawned numerous imitators and is kind of like a godfather to the whole premium denim and overpriced sweatshirts thing (genius).
What else is there? What are your favorites and why? Shoot.
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