Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison

[uparmoured]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison

[quote user="desultory"]Mate, it didn't hurt. It was a f......n joy. Go for the artists.

D.

[/quote]

Great to hear that it was a joy for you to wear buddy... My new shoes have just arrived and I look forward to more of the same...

When I hear about feet yielding to shoes, maybe due to my twisted ancestry, I think of...

Anyway keep waxing lyrical... You are my new favourite poster...

[philip nod]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison

thats actually how big my arches are. my ballerina feet are battling my new CCPs too

[desultory]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison

Those bones look like chicken feet, champ - just a bit of soy sauce and your CCPs might come right.

:) D.

[RARA]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison



I did not mean to create such a deep-funny discussion. Such a wonderful Desultory?s speech and that funny reply from Uparmouredfor CCP footwear experience. It great we have such a diversity in SZ.

We just opened another subject: how much painwe can stand on our body, besides the one on our pocket, just for wearing a special piece? Are we all some kind of masochistic?

Just take me as example: Wearing now a CCP shirt madeof witha really tight armhole which reduces my movements. It looks the fabric by the seams on both sleevesare starting to become unstitched after wearing no more than 6 times. It freaking me out! Still I love this shirt?

[desultory]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison

There's a special tag which comes with the shirt that says you're not supposed to move. You obviously didn't read it!

[DHC]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison



Wow! What a pleasure it was to read your first post in this thread. That was great Desultory. Thanks. [Y]

Keep posting!

[quote user="RARA"]

Just take me as example: Wearing now a CCP shirt madeof witha really tight armhole
which reduces my movements. It looks the fabric by the seams on both
sleevesare starting to become unstitched after wearing no more than 6
times. [/quote]

That doesn't sound good at all. Everything I own has held up beautifully. Has anyone else experienced this kind of rapid deterioration with CCP?

[Johnny]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison

His button threading is predictably crap. I wear a suit every day, the smae suit perhpas once every two or three days, usually for at least 6 months (by Kilgour). I open and close the jacekts all the time (I wear my jacket all day - open when I sit down, close when I get up) NEVER has a button fell off. I have 2 CCP plazers that I've worn less than 10 times each and on both the buttons are starting to come off. That is unforgivable really, when you consider that each jacket alone cost more (by about 50%) than any of my suits.....

[Fuuma]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison



[quote user="Johnny"]His button threading is predictably crap. I wear a suit every day, the smae suit perhpas once every two or three days, usually for at least 6 months (by Kilgour). I open and close the jacekts all the time (I wear my jacket all day - open when I sit down, close when I get up) NEVER has a button fell off. I have 2 CCP plazers that I've worn less than 10 times each and on both the buttons are starting to come off. That is unforgivable really, when you consider that each jacket alone cost more (by about 50%) than any of my suits.....[/quote]

C'mon, Poell is challenging the common expectations about the durability of a button, he's making your approach death in a meaningful wayby bringing temporality in an item that you've previously seen as perennial. You should be charged by the hour for that stuff!! You don't understand genius!!!

[voltaire's anti-defamation league]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison



im not especially fond of the augusta aesthetic. toe is too boxy. like still mentioned on sufu maybe if they were like 1k.

they look really good on the atelier 'gallery' shot though...but the whole outfit is really sharp.

i think cdiems look the best. waiting for a pair of the linen over leather ones in the mail [H]

[Chinorlz]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison

[quote user="Fuuma"]


[quote user="Johnny"]His button threading is predictably crap. I wear a suit every day, the smae suit perhpas once every two or three days, usually for at least 6 months (by Kilgour). I open and close the jacekts all the time (I wear my jacket all day - open when I sit down, close when I get up) NEVER has a button fell off. I have 2 CCP plazers that I've worn less than 10 times each and on both the buttons are starting to come off. That is unforgivable really, when you consider that each jacket alone cost more (by about 50%) than any of my suits.....[/quote]

C'mon, Poell is challenging the common expectations about the durability of a button, he's making your approach death in a meaningful wayby bringing temporality in an item that you've previously seen as perennial. You should be charged by the hour for that stuff!! You don't understand genius!!!

[/quote]

^ genius! [74]

More seriously though, Johnny, I haven't found any of my Carol pieces to be coming apart at all... except on my twist jeans the buttons on the fly weren't stitched in well. Rather, they failed to tie off the end of the thick thread. I luckily had some of the same thread in the same color on hand and reinforced all of the buttons and have since had no problems at all.... never experienced the issue with the jacket buttons though! That's a real shame and really unacceptable!

[Fuuma]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison

My pieces have also held up quite well but I'm into his pants and boots so those areusually sturdier. I was worried about the YKK zippers on the boots but they still function smoothly.

[Chinorlz]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison

^I believe someone on this forum said one of the YKK's pull snapped off on them? Can't confirm but they've been working flawlessly for me (after all, they only have to travel about 10" haha). *fingers crossed*

[pbt]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison



Had a pair of poell cord seat of which shredded when I squatted down to tie my shoes. Not as though they were too tight. Mind you I suspect they were knock offs. I picked them up off an ebay seller, last name of wong,with an ebayid something like blu, or perfectblu or something along those lines. I wonder if anyone else has had anyexperience dealing with this guy? Whatalso made me suspicious was that he hadthree sizes. It's been a while since I've seen listings from him. Anyway I got off him another pair of poell pants which I know to be authentic, and the rippingcord might also have been real (they were cut and fit precisely like another pair I own) and the tissue paper fabric perhaps was merely an egregious production flaw. I do wonder though, because I'm sure this particular seller is a tailor (judging by the technical language in his listings as well as in some emails). I own a couple of dress shirts as well. One of them ripped at both arm pits, I'm not sure now -- not cleanly either, it was along a seam I'm pretty sure, but the fabric itselfwas damaged. It was a close though not tight fitting shirt and possibly I stretched in a weird way for that to happen but I suspect it was a problem in the quality of the fabric which otherwise was great in that, though quite light, it was nice and stiff and held its shape well. The other dress shirt (samehanging-by-a-shred sleeve cuffdesign though in a different fabric)has held up great. As did mysuit until the pants went through the washer and dryer.

[uparmoured]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison



[quote user="desultory"]As with all things Poell, what is required of the purchaser/wearer, is the entering of a 'conversation' with the designer/artist, and the abandonment of the timidity which is, unfortunately, specifically male, and to be found consistently throughout these pages.[/quote]

I dare anyone who is in a frantic rush to put this shirt on...

The buttons are akin to a nagging woman who just wants to endlessly 'conversate' with you as you are leaving for work...

I think I see the light desultory...

[Geoffrey B. Small]

Re: Maurizio Altieri, there is no comparison

Hello to all,

I just happened to stumble upon this site and the current forum and have enjoyed everyone's comments. If possible, I would like to add something from the designer side of things...

I am a designer and colleague of Maurizio Altieri. We both showed our first Paris collections in the same place in 1993 along the banks of the Seine. We both have had many ups and downs in our careers. This business is like that.

He was showing Carpe Diem, although a very different concept than what it later became, and I was pioneering the crazy concept at the time, that an American designer could do avant-garde in Paris and actually make it, (Rick Owens, Jeremy Scott and quite a few others followed later).

Without going into details, we took off for awhile doing some of the world's earliest recycled designer work and grew a lot. But Maurizio suffered a lot during the next five years and made huge personal sacrifices before beginning his truly successful run with Carpe Diem. And I respect him as a friend and as one of the few real artists in the field, so I need to point out that he alone was the pioneer and creator of the look that so many have been imitating and copying in the past 4 years. Period.

This is the real and important difference people need to know about the 3 different brands.

And this is why when you really look at the pieces carefully from all aspects, there is a real difference. Without Maurizio, none of the other 2 brands would even look the way they do, if even exist at all. I know the fellow behind Guidi. Yes, he was the leather supplier for Maurizio. And with all respect to him and to the wonderful writer who posted earlier in this forum, I do not think he is Jesus. He is a very shrewd businessman. Believe me, I have learned in this business to spot them from miles away. He supplied Maurizio, saw how much money CD was making, and started supplying many others, then coming to Paris every designer week, and then surprise-- doing his own label too (even hiring ex CD salespeople to contact the stores for him), eventually replacing CD in many stores because he sold look alikes for less. Pure business. No more. No less. 99.9 percent of the industry works this way. H&M and Zara are no different. The price you pay for Maurizio is higher and justifiably so. Somebody had to start the whole thing. The idea. The research. The first prototypes. The first orders and distribution (Maurizio even went personally himself to the stores to write the first orders door to door). The lower price for Guidi is cool, but I really have to emphasize, that the purchaser is not getting the same thing, and people need to know.

The designer of Augusta worked and trained as an assistant with Maurizio and has been able to benefit from all the resources, know-how and advantages doing so. Whether, he will be able to carve out his own truly individual thing and hang in there long enough to survive what many believe is the toughest business in the world...remains to be seen. He had a great master. Hopefully he was a good student. We wish him well.

As for the defunct Carpe-Diem thing, I also want to say that it was a voluntary decision by Maurizio. CD was very successful and he did very well with it. But what would you do in his shoes, if you had created a very special artistic thing and saw your partners all try to become exploiters of the concept in their own interests? You might get sick of the whole thing and shut the doors too. Man does not live by bread alone. Real artists even more so.

The fact is that Maurizio's work and contribution are his alone. And those that want the real thing need to understand that his brand is the original and the authentic one. Those that want look alikes can settle for the others. And new emerging designers that want to make a serious contribution need to invent really new things that are truly theirs alone---then hang on long enough and survive the rest of the industry (from suppliers to retailers) that will copy them a million times over and try to make sure the buying public knows nothing about them. Believe me, there are some really good working designers out there being blocked by an industry trying to play safer and safer every season. But that's another story.

If you only knew what really goes on in this industry...

That's all I have time for. I have late store deliveries waiting and another Paris collection coming up in 5 weeks. Sorry, I hope I have not pissed anybody off with my comments. If so, I apologize profusely. I only wanted to give Maurizio Altieri some due credit for his contribution to the field.

Thanks for reading and best wishes to all,

Geoffrey B. Small