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  • Monumentalism
    Junior Member
    • Jun 2019
    • 4

    Originally posted by Faust View Post
    Mr. Rabkin would like to thank you for the compliment. :) Honestly, these boards are a wealth of information, though I understand that they may be a lot to go through. Otherwise, utilize the search function on the magazine's website - plenty of articles there. And, well, ask away here!
    Thank you very much.

    Yeah, I have a lot to go through for the next couple of days, though I'm also excited to gain this wealth of information on a realm of fashion I've never heavily looked into.

    And Mr. Rabkin is very welcome! I try to honestly tap into some of your influence as I begin to write again as well.

    Comment

    • TriggerDiscipline
      Senior Member
      • Apr 2013
      • 859

      honestly i feel like we should be discussing ACW in here at this point
      Originally posted by unwashed
      Try to use a phone camera in broad daylight or use a proper camera.
      Originally posted by Ahimsa
      I've found it extremely pleasant and enthralling over repeated whiffs so I would highly recommend.

      Comment

      • julian_doe
        Senior Member
        • Mar 2013
        • 339

        Originally posted by TriggerDiscipline View Post
        honestly i feel like we should be discussing ACW in here at this point
        May I ask...

        Is it really time to do so?

        I mean, I understand that some of the SZ brands discussed here may not be as prominent today as they may have been 4 years ago. But, I kind of feel like a large part of SZ brands which have been discussed for ~ a decade, continue to find ways to stay relevant...even in a world where the pace of fashion is as cheap and fast as it's new leaders. ACW has some interesting garments and accessories...but does that mean that it is a brand that belongs in the realm of CCP or GBS?

        I don't think so, but welcome any feedback you may have to share.

        Comment

        • Lohikaarme
          Senior Member
          • Jul 2013
          • 624

          Originally posted by Nickefuge View Post
          Thanks for the answer, might give it a try!
          Maybe the solution to your problem could be sewing in a stripe of clingy fabric or even a rubber band?
          Garter belt time

          Comment

          • zamb
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2006
            • 5834

            Originally posted by julian_doe View Post
            May I ask...

            Is it really time to do so?

            I mean, I understand that some of the SZ brands discussed here may not be as prominent today as they may have been 4 years ago. But, I kind of feel like a large part of SZ brands which have been discussed for ~ a decade, continue to find ways to stay relevant...even in a world where the pace of fashion is as cheap and fast as it's new leaders. ACW has some interesting garments and accessories...but does that mean that it is a brand that belongs in the realm of CCP or GBS?

            I don't think so, but welcome any feedback you may have to share.
            SZ was never about, should not have become about, and should always be extended beyond just a few brands
            As a long time member of this forum, if I had one hing i disliked was that the focus of the forum was always too narrow.
            I also never felt that Faust and the original founders of the forum intended for it to be that way.

            the forum and its members must be open to newer brands, different ideas and a wider and more diverse approach to seeing and discussing fashion and design.
            There are brands that used to be discussed here daily that cease to be and are no longer around, so its only sensible that newer interesting fashion and designers are brought up..........
            “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
            .................................................. .......................


            Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

            Comment

            • TriggerDiscipline
              Senior Member
              • Apr 2013
              • 859

              Originally posted by julian_doe View Post
              May I ask...

              Is it really time to do so?

              I mean, I understand that some of the SZ brands discussed here may not be as prominent today as they may have been 4 years ago. But, I kind of feel like a large part of SZ brands which have been discussed for ~ a decade, continue to find ways to stay relevant...even in a world where the pace of fashion is as cheap and fast as it's new leaders. ACW has some interesting garments and accessories...but does that mean that it is a brand that belongs in the realm of CCP or GBS?

              I don't think so, but welcome any feedback you may have to share.

              I guess I do not have any feedback to give you, just you should be paying attention more to what is going on, all the really good shit is actually hard to get your hands on, and everyone is paying attention.

              I think its easy to dismiss things with your mentality but cheap and fast is not the right words to describe this sorry
              Originally posted by unwashed
              Try to use a phone camera in broad daylight or use a proper camera.
              Originally posted by Ahimsa
              I've found it extremely pleasant and enthralling over repeated whiffs so I would highly recommend.

              Comment

              • julian_doe
                Senior Member
                • Mar 2013
                • 339

                Originally posted by TriggerDiscipline View Post
                I guess I do not have any feedback to give you, just you should be paying attention more to what is going on, all the really good shit is actually hard to get your hands on, and everyone is paying attention.

                I think its easy to dismiss things with your mentality but cheap and fast is not the right words to describe this sorry
                I wasn't referring to ACW as fast and cheap, just mentioning that some of the SZ brands which exemplify a dedication to superb design and fabrication have survived despite today's disregard for quality. (So, I agree that there is still "good shit" out there)

                In regards to ACW, what about the brand makes you feel that it belongs in the SZ universe?

                I'm not sure if it was meant as an insult to say that my "mentality" is causing me to dismiss "things", but you obviously misread my post.

                Comment

                • TriggerDiscipline
                  Senior Member
                  • Apr 2013
                  • 859

                  Originally posted by julian_doe View Post
                  I wasn't referring to ACW as fast and cheap, just mentioning that some of the SZ brands which exemplify a dedication to superb design and fabrication have survived despite today's disregard for quality. (So, I agree that there is still "good shit" out there)

                  In regards to ACW, what about the brand makes you feel that it belongs in the SZ universe?

                  I'm not sure if it was meant as an insult to say that my "mentality" is causing me to dismiss "things", but you obviously misread my post.
                  man even this is weird to me, what is a SZ universe, what is a Style Zeitgeist, the current Style Zeitgeist is how Ahmisa put it together, when I meant mentality, I meant point of view, not an insult, for clarification.

                  Originally posted by Ahimsa View Post
                  I think another big contributor to all this though is how many of the brands in this genre haven't fully embraced the digital side of things. BBS has no social media presence (that I'm aware of) aside from what little BBSNY was doing, and he did a women's campaign that one time and has only really done campaigns for 11, and I don't think he does ads ever nor interviews.
                  Many other brands also fit into this category, whereas Rick has fully embraced digital in a variety of ways and does his musical artist collaborations etc. and Michele just keeps herself relevant by appearing in all sorts of projects.
                  The unfortunate state of things at the moment is that letting clothes speak for themselves or not being able to be tagged or @'d really doesn't work in this climate. A recent report showed that consumers now only spend about 2% of their budget on clothing, compared to 5% back in '87. We're in a completely oversaturated market with Rihanna making Demna clothes and the new generation isn't really hanging out on forums anymore so most interaction is generally in snippets - so you have that small of a window to sell someone something. If only a few people are aware of a brand then it's fairly hard to acquire new younger customers etc.

                  I have a great deal of respect for BBS and their approach, but as Trigger appears to be inferring, we are in a new time where it seems like all the old goth-ninja brands are phasing out (see Julius etc.) and the Belgian fashion machine is now just whichever houses are left standing. Ugly fashion, queer culture, rave culture...that's what seems to be the cultural milieu right now, and Rick has transitioned into it completely. Undercover and Raf Simons throw techno afterparties, and Virgil Abloh just played at Movement (Detroit) if that gives any further indication.

                  now with this being clarified, within this new Zeitgeist, I think ACW portrays an interesting take on this culture, albeit with a more dare I say bleak approach... I think that as a brand grows it finds its way of portraying its vision and ACW is on its way, how the brand said themselves, 4 stockists to 165 in 4 years and the quality and techniques are only improving, its something to pay attention to, aesthetically is this really that far from anything discussed in here?
                  Originally posted by unwashed
                  Try to use a phone camera in broad daylight or use a proper camera.
                  Originally posted by Ahimsa
                  I've found it extremely pleasant and enthralling over repeated whiffs so I would highly recommend.

                  Comment

                  • TriggerDiscipline
                    Senior Member
                    • Apr 2013
                    • 859

                    what is the criteria to be discussed on stylezeitgeist
                    Originally posted by unwashed
                    Try to use a phone camera in broad daylight or use a proper camera.
                    Originally posted by Ahimsa
                    I've found it extremely pleasant and enthralling over repeated whiffs so I would highly recommend.

                    Comment

                    • Nickefuge
                      Senior Member
                      • Nov 2014
                      • 860

                      Originally posted by TriggerDiscipline View Post
                      what is the criteria to be discussed on stylezeitgeist
                      It needs to be black and scare one’s parents.
                      "The only rule is don't be boring and dress cute wherever you go. Life is too short to blend in."
                      -Paris Hilton

                      Comment

                      • ahn
                        Senior Member
                        • Jul 2012
                        • 293

                        Originally posted by Nickefuge View Post
                        It needs to be black and scare one’s parents.
                        I've recently had cause to go back through my old tumblr archives, where I was most active between 2010 and 2013. That period of time represents a pinnacle for me in terms of the intersection between my heightened interest in fashion - style as a mechanism of personal expression - discovering my voice as an artist/maker.

                        Then for several years I felt rather buoyant and lost to it all; and I can't pinpoint why. Was it the move from desktop to handheld media consumption? Was that the final straw?

                        I used to engage with a niche but thriving community where we communicated by documenting the way we adorned our bodies daily. It didn't feel narcissistic, it felt like a conversation. Now I can't even bring myself to post my own face on my own instagram feed without feeling dirty.

                        My style has suffered. My work has suffered. I feel like these muscles have atrophied; my own sense of self has become watered down in the muddy mediocrity of the 'instagram aesthetic' - where once I could curate my own online experience, I am now choking on advertising thinly veiled as 'recommended content' by the algorithm that never seems to successfully integrate with what I'd genuinely be interested in, instead suffocating what's left of my creative spirit in it's homogeneity.

                        The things that used to galvanize me now make me weary.
                        No wonder I'm tired all the time.
                        some do it fast, some do it better in smaller amounts.

                        Comment

                        • marux
                          Junior Member
                          • Apr 2013
                          • 13

                          Hold on, let me print that and put it up on my wall.

                          Comment

                          • Halibut
                            Member
                            • Sep 2014
                            • 66

                            Originally posted by marux View Post
                            Hold on, let me post it on my feed.
                            fixed that for ya

                            but yeah, well said, ahn!

                            Comment

                            • jiggy
                              Junior Member
                              • Feb 2007
                              • 29

                              Leclaireur does not ship out of the EU. Does anyone knows any proxy or any way I can purchase from them with tax off? Might even consider proxy and sacrificing tax.

                              Comment

                              • jurassicsnark
                                Senior Member
                                • Sep 2015
                                • 167

                                Where are you trying to ship to?
                                I live in Europe and will be coming to the US (California) in late July. I won't be able to get the tax back (EU citizen), but I'd be willing to proxy for you if you're looking for stuff to get to America.

                                Comment

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