Julius SS09 - Paris

[dji]

thanks croatoan, I had started skipping some of the pants because they were starting to all look the same to me . I didn't see the J shaped s/s tee though.

didn't know that they were re-releasing the same high collar this season, thought it was just added to fill out the runway show like the reverse deer coat from the f/w collection and the trench from the ma line. do you know if the drop in quality on the Julius high collar from f/w 08 (i.e. ykk zips and less substantial leather) is indicative of the quality of the leather jackets Julius will be producing from now on?

[croatoan]

Julius leather has been using YKK for at least a couple seasons. They are very high quality Japan-made ones so they might as well be riri or Lampo. The special high neck was made from ram skin, right? I think the nature of that leather in particular is a little bit tougher and stiffer than others. The leather they are using from garment to garment really just changes depending on the intention in design and season, I would say. The FW08 riders jacket had buttery soft leather so it can fit very tight and still be very flexible while the high neck one paints a much more striking portrait and uses the leather appropriate. The SS09 one will be lamb skin, however.

Overall I think the Japanese take far too much pride in their work to allow for any drop in quality.


and a beautiful new color for SS09 -- OAK

[ddohnggo]

that leather high collar jacket is great, but everything else is pretty meh. seriously who the fuck would want a leather long coat (or blazer). every one i've seen is a major fail.

[Faust]

Nothing wrong with YKK. It's a Japanese company, so it's only natural that they use their zippers. Yohji does too, so does Junya. As a matter of fact I would rather they use YKK, because imagine how much a Riri will cost them in Japan, and then multiply that by the insane amount each detail costs by the time the price reaches retail.

[dji]

the ram skin leather jacket I have from FW06 isn't stiff at all, it's really thick and soft (I'm sure P would attest to this with his FW07 jacket). the ram leather this season felt completely different, stiffer and relatively thin with an almost plasticy texture.

the YKK zippers aren't a huge issue to me, although the M8 and M6 Riri zippers Julius use on some of the jackets just feel that much more durable and heavy duty imo. I'm not sure exactly what determines when they use particular zips in each situation either, the high collar and M65 style leathers both used YKK zips this season while the moto collar (with pocket nipples) has a riri zip.

anyway, as you said the Japanese take a lot of pride in the work and I'm sure the level of quality will be maintained as they move to larger scale production.

[Faust]

I need this in my life.

I think I am going to be reposting this once a day so I don't have to go back far in order to stare at it lovingly.

[philip nod]

that leather high collar jacket is great, but everything else is pretty meh. seriously who the fuck would want a leather long coat (or blazer). every one i've seen is a major fail.

ma+ has a fucking sick one from the first season that i watched croaty try on at barneys. really fucking sick. really fucking sick. the noodles across the street i am also craving right now

[philip nod]

the ram skin leather jacket I have from FW06 isn't stiff at all, it's really thick and soft (I'm sure P would attest to this with his FW07 jacket). the ram leather this season felt completely different, stiffer and relatively thin with an almost plasticy texture.

the YKK zippers aren't a huge issue to me, although the M8 and M6 Riri zippers Julius use on some of the jackets just feel that much more durable and heavy duty imo. I'm not sure exactly what determines when they use particular zips in each situation either, the high collar and M65 style leathers both used YKK zips this season while the moto collar (with pocket nipples) has a riri zip.

anyway, as you said the Japanese take a lot of pride in the work and I'm sure the level of quality will be maintained as they move to larger scale production.

vigorously attesting

[Chinorlz]

Yeah, classic rehash of what they've produced in the past. Can't knock it in that sense....

at the same time there are those blatant rips like David mentioned... is that a leather wrapped dog tag? hmmmmmmmm

[dji]

croatoan you wouldn't happen to know the approximate street date for the SS09 high collar would you (presumably towards the end of the season given the late release of the F/W version)? very tempted if it is made from soft lamb skin instead of the stiffer FW08 ram leather.

[croatoan]

Honestly I have not handled this one in person yet so I cannot speak definite of the material, but I do have hope! The deliveries start with a pre-delivery which is set I believe for around December and will include the high neck jacket.

[dji]

thanks for the info , sounds like there is going to be a surplus of high collar jackets this time with such an early re-release. besides a few tees, the ribbed v-neck sweater and maybe the denim jacket, the high collar is the only item of interest for me this season.

[croatoan]

Right now my wishlist of Julius SS09 is a couple pairs of pants, back zip boots, one of the suit options, and some lovely basics. The other desires will be dependent on how much money is left after that stuff!

[ddohnggo]

Any word on what blackbird ordered?

[croatoan]

Any word on what blackbird ordered?

I'll try and get a blog post up soon showing that stuff. For now, though, check your e-mail..