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I love the models, I'm going to dress in Yohji when I'm old. Looks to be standard YY fair, which isn't a bad thing. My only complaint is with the opening couple looks, while I like grey flannel suits, coupled with Yohji's droopy tailoring it comes off as just a bit too "homeless chic." I think Yohji's proportions work better with his usually fine fabrics to balance it out. That and the assymetrical jackets are maybe a bit fashion student-y.
I only like the opening flannel outfits. I love the flashes of colour and they completely suit the older models. However I think this creates a problem itself - it really highlights the "standard" models just being lost in the clothes. They are, in any normal sense, too big for them; and you need something "extra" to be able to make them work - age or experience ora nonchalance about fashion.This in turn highlights to me a real problem, in terms of limited market, for these clothes. I just don't think young people (probably people under 35 or even 40is what I'm talking about) will look good in them.
Apart form that, it does seem a very conservative collection;the asymetric jacket is really not very good at all and seems a little tokenistic.
EDIT - or as someone on tfs put it: "omg, this collection was made for old people...."
(Allow me to get this brief TFS-esque fanboy/girl-ish response out of the way first): OMFG.
I don't think this show is really a safe/commercial one, I disagree with Real Real...I mean, this stuff isn't really anything different from what Yohji has been showing for men for the past few decades, it's very much typical Yohji, but what clicks with me is his use of older men as models, carrying groceries, looking haggard and world weary. This collection, it's stylization and the overall presentation are a very nice capsule summary of Yohji's view towards men and their place in the world, which I got a much better understanding of after watching the Wenders doc...even though that was focused mostly on women. Bravo.
edit: Johnny just read your post, i'm gonna try my goddamn hardest to prove you wrong on that one or die trying ;)
yeah...living in HK where most YY cold weather clothes (most cold weather clothes, period) aren't really of much use to me, i really kinda wish this was the F/W 08/09 collection so I could wear it as soon as the heat wave's over. I can't wait to get into this stuff.
I think Yohji is brilliant with every single collection. Let's face it, pure economics prevent most of us from owning his clothes other than henleys, shirts etc. Yet, despite this, young and old alike love his designs.
He's able to differentiate himself by doing just the opposite of something like Lanvin. Instead of appealing to the sense of lost youth his consumer, he makes his clothes that, in my mind, add a sense of depth and character that only comes with age. In a way, he's allowing people to embrace their age rather than making them pretend they're 20 years younger than they really are (again, I'll point to Lanvin, Dior, etc).
[quote user="Johnny"]How is he doing that, rather than allowing people to pretend they're 20 years older than they really are?[/quote]
LOL
Yohji is a state of mind...i can't think of another clothing line that exists out there that has such an effect on the wearer.
On another note, I also think that nowadays people are way too concerned with things having to look "right." It has to "fit" right. It has to be "appropriate." Everything has to look symmetrical, proper, the slightest hint of flaw or imperfection is scrutinized and magnified a thousand times. And I think this goes beyond just clothing and aesthetics, even into the realm of human behavior where consistency of thought and action is a must, to the point it is becoming robotic rather than human. And the fact so many people seem blind to this key fundamental of human nature is really quite appaling. In this context, there's nothing more liberating than wearing something that is painstakingly made with care yet still fits totally "off," whether for body or age or what have you.
[quote user="Johnny"]How is he doing that, rather than allowing people to pretend they're 20 years older than they really are?[/quote]
LOL
Yohji is a state of mind...i can't think of another clothing line that exists out there that has such an effect on the wearer.
On another note, I also think that nowadays people are way too concerned with things having to look "right." It has to "fit" right. It has to be "appropriate." Everything has to look symmetrical, proper, the slightest hint of flaw or imperfection is scrutinized and magnified a thousand times. And I think this goes beyond just clothing and aesthetics, even into the realm of human behavior where consistency of thought and action is a must, to the point it is becoming robotic rather than human. And the fact so many people seem blind to this key fundamental of human nature is really quite appaling. In this context, there's nothing more liberating than wearing something that is painstakingly made with care yet still fits totally "off," whether for body or age or what have you.
[/quote]
Anything but, I would say.
Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
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