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Thread: Looking Back...

  1. #1

    Default Looking Back...



    To gain a deeper understanding of the present, sometimes a look back throughout time is necessary. post your favorite collections/looks/designers/interviews of previous years, request pictures/video from a specific season, share any archival references, and discuss.



    finding anything before 2000 is nearly impossible, but there HAS to be images floating around somewhere. the only place I know of that you can find previous season show images is contemporaryfashion.net. (click 'browse'.) if anyone knows of any other sites or has anything dating before 2002/2003 (most websites seem to stop around that time) saved, please share. I for one, would like any Demeulemeester, Margiela, Lang, or Yamamoto.


  2. #2
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Default Re: Looking Back...



    Ann Demeulemeester Mens SS00



    Ann Demeulemeester Womens Retrospective



    The Work of Helmut Lang



    There is also an excellent CDG 90's thread on the fashion spot.

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  3. #3

    Default Re: Looking Back...



    firstview.com has made most every collection beyond the most recent runway freely available, and has a huge selection of free runway shows running back to 1995-1996.



    http://firstview.com/



    EDIT: Grrr, it looks like they've seriously curtailed their free access since I last checked them out a few years ago.

    Hobo: We all dress up. We all put on our armour before we walk out the door, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that we’re trying to be someone else.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Looking Back...

    [quote user="theetruscan"]

    firstview.com has made most every collection beyond the most recent runway freely available, and has a huge selection of free runway shows running back to 1995-1996.



    http://firstview.com/



    EDIT: Grrr, it looks like they've seriously curtailed their free access since I last checked them out a few years ago.



    [/quote]



    They certainly have.


  5. #5

    Default Re: Looking Back...

    [quote user="Faust"]

    Ann Demeulemeester Mens SS00



    Ann Demeulemeester Womens Retrospective



    The Work of Helmut Lang



    There is also an excellent CDG 90's thread on the fashion spot.



    [/quote]



    oh wow, thank you for these... it's a shame people don't seem too interested in the old Ann stuff.




    It's been said so many times before, but it's just crazy how modern her
    clothes are. even looking back at the pictures of her early 90's
    collections, anyone could easily wear all of it today. she's just
    brilliant...







    (from FW 99-00)


  6. #6

    Default Re: Looking Back...

    [quote user="MCHL"]


    It's been said so many times before, but it's just crazy how modern her
    clothes are. even looking back at the pictures of her early 90's
    collections, anyone could easily wear all of it today. she's just
    brilliant...



    [/quote]



    I don't think I've seen any of her clothing from the early 90s?


  7. #7

    Default Re: Looking Back...











    Damn, the models used to look a lot better, eh?

  8. #8

    Default Re: Looking Back...

    I've always seen Ann D's work as kind of Yohji-esque.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Looking Back...



    Great thread MCHL, and thanks for the pictures.



    Hmm, Yohji-esque, what do you mean by that, Matt? [75]



    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Looking Back...



    yeah great thread, thanks for pics posted as mentioned, have never seen them before.





    Avantster I dunno if anyone else sees it the way I see it...use of neutrals/muted tones, drape, preference of movement over structure punctuated by occasional bursts of sharp/military influences...when i see some Ann pieces I think to myself Yohji might have designed a similar piece, and vice versa.



    I think there is a difference in execution between the two...Ann's work for both men and women blurs the line of androgyny, whereas with Yohji he sets very clearly masculine/feminine boundaries in his respective lines. But i see some similarities in silhouette and approach.


  11. #11
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Default Re: Looking Back...

    /\ hehe, did you read what she said about androgyny?
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  12. #12

    Default Re: Looking Back...



    Thanx guys!




    This is the threadi've been waiting for


  13. #13

    Default Re: Looking Back...

    I have some good old Jil Sander ads and images that I will host when I get home and post.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Looking Back...

    [quote user="matthewhk"]

    yeah great thread, thanks for pics posted as mentioned, have never seen them before.



    Avantster I dunno if anyone else sees it the way I see it...use of neutrals/muted tones, drape, preference of movement over structure punctuated by occasional bursts of sharp/military influences...when i see some Ann pieces I think to myself Yohji might have designed a similar piece, and vice versa.



    I think there is a difference in execution between the two...Ann's work for both men and women blurs the line of androgyny, whereas with Yohji he sets very clearly masculine/feminine boundaries in his respective lines. But i see some similarities in silhouette and approach.



    [/quote]



    I can see why you're saying that. There are a few similarities there.

    But if we're talking about womenswear, I think there are important differences in their approach. Ann is interested in creating clothes that are human, by expressing their beauty and faults, their strengths and weaknesses, and cutting this into the garments. Yohji is also interested in creating womens clothes that are human, but in a different sense; to express his fantasy and fascination with women. As a result of this fantasy aspect I think his work tends to be a little more architectural. I think this is also why Yohji tends to put more dresses on the runway than Ann.



    With regards to menswear I agree about the difference in execution. While both are interested in imperfection, but Ann's execution is much more delicate. She doesn't see it as androgynous though, but rather that everyone has masculine/feminine elements.



    As for the military influences, I think there's something a bit more to it. For Yohji, my understanding is that his relationship with his father is very important to understanding this. He lost him to WW2 and never knew him. Growing up during the war, he witnessed the far reaching effects of war on family, friends, and the people around him. Perhaps using military influences is Yohji's way doing something for his father.



    On the other hand, I've never really seen Ann's work as having direct military influences, but rather that she's taking elements of clothing that are predominantly masculine and using it for contrast.

    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  15. #15
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Default Re: Looking Back...



    Yohji Yamamoto



    Well, said, Avantster! Perfect summary.

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  16. #16
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Default Re: Looking Back...

    Fun stuff! [87] Thanks, Avantster.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  17. #17

    Default Re: Looking Back...

    [quote user="Avantster"] Comme des Garcons 1995 A/W


    Baby-pink acrylic knit sweater; matching long skirt with embroidery; bustle-like tube sewn to back of skirt; tulle petticoat.




    [/quote]

    wow fun pics Avantster, thanks. that dress looks like a rocketpack or something.must be annoying to sit behind a woman wearing this dress to the cinema.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Looking Back...



    [87]



    fantastic, avantster!



    What book did these come from, if I may ask?

    ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

  19. #19
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Default Re: Looking Back...

    I wonder whether this is from the Kyoto Fashion Museum book or maybe from the San Fran museum catalogue - they had a very good Japanese fashion exhibition a while ago.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  20. #20

    Default Re: Looking Back...



    Thanks guys, knew some of you'd like it!



    I'll post the book when I get home. It's interesting to see how YY & CdG seemed to start from around the same place and went on completely different paths.

    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

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