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  • MCHL
    Junior Member
    • Jun 2008
    • 25

    Looking Back...



    To gain a deeper understanding of the present, sometimes a look back throughout time is necessary. post your favorite collections/looks/designers/interviews of previous years, request pictures/video from a specific season, share any archival references, and discuss.



    finding anything before 2000 is nearly impossible, but there HAS to be images floating around somewhere. the only place I know of that you can find previous season show images is contemporaryfashion.net. (click 'browse'.) if anyone knows of any other sites or has anything dating before 2002/2003 (most websites seem to stop around that time) saved, please share. I for one, would like any Demeulemeester, Margiela, Lang, or Yamamoto.

  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37849

    #2
    Re: Looking Back...



    Ann Demeulemeester Mens SS00



    Ann Demeulemeester Womens Retrospective



    The Work of Helmut Lang



    There is also an excellent CDG 90's thread on the fashion spot.

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

    Comment

    • theetruscan
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2008
      • 2270

      #3
      Re: Looking Back...



      firstview.com has made most every collection beyond the most recent runway freely available, and has a huge selection of free runway shows running back to 1995-1996.



      http://firstview.com/



      EDIT: Grrr, it looks like they've seriously curtailed their free access since I last checked them out a few years ago.

      Hobo: We all dress up. We all put on our armour before we walk out the door, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that we’re trying to be someone else.

      Comment

      • Servo2000
        Senior Member
        • Oct 2006
        • 2183

        #4
        Re: Looking Back...

        [quote user="theetruscan"]

        firstview.com has made most every collection beyond the most recent runway freely available, and has a huge selection of free runway shows running back to 1995-1996.



        http://firstview.com/



        EDIT: Grrr, it looks like they've seriously curtailed their free access since I last checked them out a few years ago.



        [/quote]



        They certainly have.

        WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

        Comment

        • MCHL
          Junior Member
          • Jun 2008
          • 25

          #5
          Re: Looking Back...

          [quote user="Faust"]

          Ann Demeulemeester Mens SS00



          Ann Demeulemeester Womens Retrospective



          The Work of Helmut Lang



          There is also an excellent CDG 90's thread on the fashion spot.



          [/quote]



          oh wow, thank you for these... it's a shame people don't seem too interested in the old Ann stuff.




          It's been said so many times before, but it's just crazy how modern her
          clothes are. even looking back at the pictures of her early 90's
          collections, anyone could easily wear all of it today. she's just
          brilliant...







          (from FW 99-00)

          Comment

          • Servo2000
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2006
            • 2183

            #6
            Re: Looking Back...

            [quote user="MCHL"]


            It's been said so many times before, but it's just crazy how modern her
            clothes are. even looking back at the pictures of her early 90's
            collections, anyone could easily wear all of it today. she's just
            brilliant...



            [/quote]



            I don't think I've seen any of her clothing from the early 90s?

            WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

            Comment

            • Real Real
              Senior Member
              • Feb 2007
              • 619

              #7
              Re: Looking Back...











              Damn, the models used to look a lot better, eh?

              Comment

              • matthewhk
                Senior Member
                • Jan 2007
                • 1049

                #8
                Re: Looking Back...

                I've always seen Ann D's work as kind of Yohji-esque.

                Comment

                • Avantster
                  ¤¤¤
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 1983

                  #9
                  Re: Looking Back...



                  Great thread MCHL, and thanks for the pictures.



                  Hmm, Yohji-esque, what do you mean by that, Matt? [75]



                  let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

                  Comment

                  • matthewhk
                    Senior Member
                    • Jan 2007
                    • 1049

                    #10
                    Re: Looking Back...



                    yeah great thread, thanks for pics posted as mentioned, have never seen them before.





                    Avantster I dunno if anyone else sees it the way I see it...use of neutrals/muted tones, drape, preference of movement over structure punctuated by occasional bursts of sharp/military influences...when i see some Ann pieces I think to myself Yohji might have designed a similar piece, and vice versa.



                    I think there is a difference in execution between the two...Ann's work for both men and women blurs the line of androgyny, whereas with Yohji he sets very clearly masculine/feminine boundaries in his respective lines. But i see some similarities in silhouette and approach.

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37849

                      #11
                      Re: Looking Back...

                      /\ hehe, did you read what she said about androgyny?
                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

                      • Jorge Hache
                        Senior Member
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 457

                        #12
                        Re: Looking Back...



                        Thanx guys!




                        This is the threadi've been waiting for

                        Comment

                        • iSuck
                          Senior Member
                          • Mar 2008
                          • 536

                          #13
                          Re: Looking Back...

                          I have some good old Jil Sander ads and images that I will host when I get home and post.

                          Comment

                          • Avantster
                            ¤¤¤
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 1983

                            #14
                            Re: Looking Back...

                            [quote user="matthewhk"]

                            yeah great thread, thanks for pics posted as mentioned, have never seen them before.



                            Avantster I dunno if anyone else sees it the way I see it...use of neutrals/muted tones, drape, preference of movement over structure punctuated by occasional bursts of sharp/military influences...when i see some Ann pieces I think to myself Yohji might have designed a similar piece, and vice versa.



                            I think there is a difference in execution between the two...Ann's work for both men and women blurs the line of androgyny, whereas with Yohji he sets very clearly masculine/feminine boundaries in his respective lines. But i see some similarities in silhouette and approach.



                            [/quote]



                            I can see why you're saying that. There are a few similarities there.

                            But if we're talking about womenswear, I think there are important differences in their approach. Ann is interested in creating clothes that are human, by expressing their beauty and faults, their strengths and weaknesses, and cutting this into the garments. Yohji is also interested in creating womens clothes that are human, but in a different sense; to express his fantasy and fascination with women. As a result of this fantasy aspect I think his work tends to be a little more architectural. I think this is also why Yohji tends to put more dresses on the runway than Ann.



                            With regards to menswear I agree about the difference in execution. While both are interested in imperfection, but Ann's execution is much more delicate. She doesn't see it as androgynous though, but rather that everyone has masculine/feminine elements.



                            As for the military influences, I think there's something a bit more to it. For Yohji, my understanding is that his relationship with his father is very important to understanding this. He lost him to WW2 and never knew him. Growing up during the war, he witnessed the far reaching effects of war on family, friends, and the people around him. Perhaps using military influences is Yohji's way doing something for his father.



                            On the other hand, I've never really seen Ann's work as having direct military influences, but rather that she's taking elements of clothing that are predominantly masculine and using it for contrast.

                            let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

                            Comment

                            • Faust
                              kitsch killer
                              • Sep 2006
                              • 37849

                              #15
                              Re: Looking Back...



                              Yohji Yamamoto



                              Well, said, Avantster! Perfect summary.

                              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                              Comment

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