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Thread: Junya Watanabe S/S 09 Paris

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    Default Junya Watanabe S/S 09 Paris

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    Last edited by inaya; 04-15-2009 at 03:01 PM.

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    Last edited by inaya; 04-15-2009 at 03:01 PM.

  3. #3
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Mama Africa... Some it is very gorgeous of course, awesome jackets and I love that he brought denim back! But it does get familiar the way Ann has become familiar - exact same vocabulary, just in different themes.
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  4. #4

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    while it is not necessarily a look i find appealing, i like the masterful cutting and play with fabrics.

    i particularly like the kind of shabby looking treatment on the denim pieces...it really does look like stuff that could come out of the stalls on Women's Street in Mong Kok, but of course with the detailing only Junya pulls off.
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    denim hell argh

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    But it does get familiar the way Ann has become familiar - exact same vocabulary, just in different themes.
    Yeah, once you've gotten over the initial shock of seeing all those prints (which I like, at least in theory) you do quickly realize that it's "just" another Junya collection, after all.

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    there is an art itself in mixing prints... I don't think it should be so easily written off as a typical Junya collection. I agree that it is his signature style of deconstructed works, but the mix of textures and patterns is remarkable. some designers' integrity relies largely on their great talent for designing with prints such as Dries Van Noten and others... it's no small feat, hehe :)

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    Solid collection done in typical Junya style. I also enjoyed seeing the denim again.
    You're right inaya, the skillful mix of textures and patterns is no easy feat, particularly considering the typical complexity of Junya's garments.
    But can someone educate me with what's going on with those flowers in the head wraps?

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    i doubt it Avanster!

    I've looked at this a few times and I have to say I'm a little disappointed. The denim is pretty clunky, and I don't think the random appearance of the artificial wear marks works at all. Some of it reminds me of the big stonewashed jacket that Tiffany used to wear.... The prints and the cutting and putting together of those fabrics seems like the most succesful part of the show. The colours are vibrant and beautiful and seem to convey a feeling of optimism or at least happiness.

    Faust and others are right about it being the same vocabulary though. He uses the same cutting and manufacturing techniques repeatedly now, although I think that simply underlines his identity in the clothing. I think he's starting to do this with his menswear too - leaving aside the varying themes, there is a common approach to the collections that is starting to establish itself.

  10. #10
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny View Post
    i doubt it Avanster!

    I've looked at this a few times and I have to say I'm a little disappointed. The denim is pretty clunky, and I don't think the random appearance of the artificial wear marks works at all. Some of it reminds me of the big stonewashed jacket that Tiffany used to wear.... The prints and the cutting and putting together of those fabrics seems like the most succesful part of the show. The colours are vibrant and beautiful and seem to convey a feeling of optimism or at least happiness.

    Faust and others are right about it being the same vocabulary though. He uses the same cutting and manufacturing techniques repeatedly now, although I think that simply underlines his identity in the clothing. I think he's starting to do this with his menswear too - leaving aside the varying themes, there is a common approach to the collections that is starting to establish itself.
    I was thinking about his menswear recently and concluded that it must be hard to be a big fan of his menswear, because the themes vary so drastically. I mean, if you have a style personality, then you are bound to skip a season here or there.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  11. #11

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    well the past 3-4 seasons of Junya mens have been along the same lines...
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    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fade to Black View Post
    well the past 3-4 seasons of Junya mens have been along the same lines...
    you forgot FW07, my friend. vroom, vroom.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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    Fade to Black, speaking of "let's hop a cab & split it," I miss the Junya "Taxi Driver" Inspired Collection. Def. one of my favorite.

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    Didn't he say somewhere that he wanted people to schizophrenically combine items across collections? I kind of think that'd be a neat approach. Black motorcycle jacket, plaid covered oxford shirt, khakis, etc.

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    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Real Real View Post
    Didn't he say somewhere that he wanted people to schizophrenically combine items across collections? I kind of think that'd be a neat approach. Black motorcycle jacket, plaid covered oxford shirt, khakis, etc.
    Did he? I think it's easier said than done.
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    I think he said something in relation to this summer's collection about how everything in it could be worn with stuff he'd done before. I agree that it's not so easy. I actually think that the taxi driver one is the most incongruous of recent collections. It was unrelentingly canvas and green. At least with the bikers one there was some nice stuff in black wool, and there was also the barbour bikers jacket. He's also looked at bikers in a couple of different ways - the wester stye winter collection, then the hawaiian summer collection. as well as the recent one we're talking about here. The taxi driver collection is I think the only one of his collections from which I have no items.

    I see there being three approaches applied in his work. The first overarching thing about basing his menswear on existing or real clothes, which is almost the opposite from his approach to womenswear. Then secondly there are the various "themes" - biker, mountaineer, soldier, old-fashioned ivy league) and thirdly, the common vocabulary (goin back to the first approach) as to how those themes are expressed (things like - reworking old clothes, basic templates for outfits, putting in unexpected object or fabrics to well knowns items of clothing (zippers on peacoats, tartan patches on oxford shirts, biker jackets made of shirting material, suits made of tacksuit nylon etc).

    I think it's possible to find an affinity with this way of working, as an "in" to each collection, but ultimately you hve to like the pieces themselves. The concept tail can wag the aesthetic dog sometimes, as I well know......

  17. #17

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    good call on F/W 07...

    yeah Junya menswear is a bit of an enigma...i like it, but something about it just seems so...hard to approach. Come to think of it the womenswear strikes me the same way. The fabrics are not luxurious by any means...actually the opposite in many cases. The cuts are neither here nor there... It's like anti-fashion high fashion, if that makes any sense. As a concept it's brilliant, but i think the CdG counterpart is much more workable into a wardrobe.

    On that note, I think I have encountered exactly ONE person ever wearing Junya in real life, on the street (in Tokyo, on Minamiaoyama no less...)
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    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    I don't know - I am not a woman (can't speak in terms of wardrobe integration), but I think his womenswear is genius. I think the jackets are totally wearable. I am not sure about the long skirts - they look a bit constricting. I did see an Asian woman in NYC rocking one of the boiled wool biker jackets, it was awesome. Maybe one of our female members can chime in.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  19. #19

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    yeah i can see the womenswear working on some of our female posters here...

    the menswear is in some other category that i can't even begin to put my finger on....a lot of the stuff he puts out, brilliant deconstructionist details aside, seems to be on a totally different wavelength with what is usually considered 'fashionable'...i think Junya is actually quite inspired by kitsch. I think that Taxi Driver collection, and the last winter biker season are the two exceptions. Most Junya stuff I come across for mens seems brilliantly tacky. Come to think of it, that's how i view this latest women's show as well. It's nice to admire from a distance, but I don't know if I want to wear it so much...
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  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    Did he? I think it's easier said than done.
    You're right, but nevertheless, I believe it's possible. I guess I do have a "style personality" (as you and I discussed before), but since getting into Junya's menswear, I've started thinking it's not so hard to match them all to the dapper look, as long as it's done in bits and pieces. I've been messing around with it a little of late, starting simply - for example, combining with one of the S/S 07 Kangol caps with an unhemmed "College Boy" knit jumper (S/S 04?) or one of this summer's striped fedoras with one of last summer's numbered knits. I can use the blue nylon trench from the tracksuit collection with pretty much anything as well, and I can see myself getting one of the black biker jackets (tho' probably not the boiled wool) to go with the tie-wearing dandy look of right now, or at least one of his shirts and a tie of my own selection. I figure as I track down more stuff I missed from this summer, I'll be able to play around with the looks more often

    (I made no mention of trousers because I'm generally too large for Junya's cuts, but I do have a pair of Prince of Wales check Levi's he did that I wear out in the summer as the length makes them perfect as cropped jeans)

    I'm just getting round to the women's shows, but I can see this easily in my top 3. It's gorgeous and it does so much with prints that the designers in my homeland wouldn't think to work with more extensively. There's a touch of cross-pollination between his men and womenswear this season that he's been doing for the last few summers (as well as A/W 07) - in this case, it's the prints, using lots of gingham and African designs (and if you look at it thematically, the 2009 men are (in some designs) safari travellers, while the women are the exotic earth mamas that attract this sort of dude's attentions). And yes, a few of the cuts are reused, but I think this consistency is perhaps a good thing, particularly if he has womenswear fans that are playing catch-up like I'm doing with the menswear. I'm especially stoked to see what he's done to the denim, even though it's not necessarily an innovation in his hands, and I haven't yet found the words to convey how seductive the white outfits are
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    Last edited by Barims; 01-21-2011 at 07:51 PM.

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