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Junya Watanabe S/S 09 Paris

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  • Johnny
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 1923

    #16
    I think he said something in relation to this summer's collection about how everything in it could be worn with stuff he'd done before. I agree that it's not so easy. I actually think that the taxi driver one is the most incongruous of recent collections. It was unrelentingly canvas and green. At least with the bikers one there was some nice stuff in black wool, and there was also the barbour bikers jacket. He's also looked at bikers in a couple of different ways - the wester stye winter collection, then the hawaiian summer collection. as well as the recent one we're talking about here. The taxi driver collection is I think the only one of his collections from which I have no items.

    I see there being three approaches applied in his work. The first overarching thing about basing his menswear on existing or real clothes, which is almost the opposite from his approach to womenswear. Then secondly there are the various "themes" - biker, mountaineer, soldier, old-fashioned ivy league) and thirdly, the common vocabulary (goin back to the first approach) as to how those themes are expressed (things like - reworking old clothes, basic templates for outfits, putting in unexpected object or fabrics to well knowns items of clothing (zippers on peacoats, tartan patches on oxford shirts, biker jackets made of shirting material, suits made of tacksuit nylon etc).

    I think it's possible to find an affinity with this way of working, as an "in" to each collection, but ultimately you hve to like the pieces themselves. The concept tail can wag the aesthetic dog sometimes, as I well know......

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    • Fade to Black
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2008
      • 5340

      #17
      good call on F/W 07...

      yeah Junya menswear is a bit of an enigma...i like it, but something about it just seems so...hard to approach. Come to think of it the womenswear strikes me the same way. The fabrics are not luxurious by any means...actually the opposite in many cases. The cuts are neither here nor there... It's like anti-fashion high fashion, if that makes any sense. As a concept it's brilliant, but i think the CdG counterpart is much more workable into a wardrobe.

      On that note, I think I have encountered exactly ONE person ever wearing Junya in real life, on the street (in Tokyo, on Minamiaoyama no less...)
      www.matthewhk.net

      let me show you a few thangs

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      • Faust
        kitsch killer
        • Sep 2006
        • 37852

        #18
        I don't know - I am not a woman (can't speak in terms of wardrobe integration), but I think his womenswear is genius. I think the jackets are totally wearable. I am not sure about the long skirts - they look a bit constricting. I did see an Asian woman in NYC rocking one of the boiled wool biker jackets, it was awesome. Maybe one of our female members can chime in.
        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

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        • Fade to Black
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2008
          • 5340

          #19
          yeah i can see the womenswear working on some of our female posters here...

          the menswear is in some other category that i can't even begin to put my finger on....a lot of the stuff he puts out, brilliant deconstructionist details aside, seems to be on a totally different wavelength with what is usually considered 'fashionable'...i think Junya is actually quite inspired by kitsch. I think that Taxi Driver collection, and the last winter biker season are the two exceptions. Most Junya stuff I come across for mens seems brilliantly tacky. Come to think of it, that's how i view this latest women's show as well. It's nice to admire from a distance, but I don't know if I want to wear it so much...
          www.matthewhk.net

          let me show you a few thangs

          Comment

          • Barims
            Member
            • Aug 2008
            • 45

            #20
            Originally posted by Faust View Post
            Did he? I think it's easier said than done.
            You're right, but nevertheless, I believe it's possible. I guess I do have a "style personality" (as you and I discussed before), but since getting into Junya's menswear, I've started thinking it's not so hard to match them all to the dapper look, as long as it's done in bits and pieces. I've been messing around with it a little of late, starting simply - for example, combining with one of the S/S 07 Kangol caps with an unhemmed "College Boy" knit jumper (S/S 04?) or one of this summer's striped fedoras with one of last summer's numbered knits. I can use the blue nylon trench from the tracksuit collection with pretty much anything as well, and I can see myself getting one of the black biker jackets (tho' probably not the boiled wool) to go with the tie-wearing dandy look of right now, or at least one of his shirts and a tie of my own selection. I figure as I track down more stuff I missed from this summer, I'll be able to play around with the looks more often

            (I made no mention of trousers because I'm generally too large for Junya's cuts, but I do have a pair of Prince of Wales check Levi's he did that I wear out in the summer as the length makes them perfect as cropped jeans)

            I'm just getting round to the women's shows, but I can see this easily in my top 3. It's gorgeous and it does so much with prints that the designers in my homeland wouldn't think to work with more extensively. There's a touch of cross-pollination between his men and womenswear this season that he's been doing for the last few summers (as well as A/W 07) - in this case, it's the prints, using lots of gingham and African designs (and if you look at it thematically, the 2009 men are (in some designs) safari travellers, while the women are the exotic earth mamas that attract this sort of dude's attentions). And yes, a few of the cuts are reused, but I think this consistency is perhaps a good thing, particularly if he has womenswear fans that are playing catch-up like I'm doing with the menswear. I'm especially stoked to see what he's done to the denim, even though it's not necessarily an innovation in his hands, and I haven't yet found the words to convey how seductive the white outfits are
            ________
            trichomes
            Last edited by Barims; 01-21-2011, 07:51 PM.

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            • Faust
              kitsch killer
              • Sep 2006
              • 37852

              #21
              You have to see the womens denim he did in 2002 (I think)
              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

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              • electric_alyce
                Senior Member
                • Mar 2008
                • 314

                #22
                I think my fiancé would kill for those stockings. Personally I'm a bit torn on the whole thing. I love the shapes and construction, but not too fond of the fabrics and prints.
                Smile! It's the apocalypse

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                • Barims
                  Member
                  • Aug 2008
                  • 45

                  #23
                  Originally posted by Faust View Post
                  You have to see the womens denim he did in 2002 (I think)
                  I meant in person - the pictures I've seen of that collection are inspiringly awesome, and shamelessly reintroduced in this show. Thinking about it, I highly enjoy his ability to make the similar different through his reuse and refinement of his signature shapes, just by altering the themes and focus, much as he's been doing with his men's dandy gear. A little cohesion is good every now and then
                  ________
                  silversurfer vaporizer
                  Last edited by Barims; 01-21-2011, 07:51 PM.

                  Comment

                  • Faust
                    kitsch killer
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 37852

                    #24
                    I agree - I'm all for cohesion. That's why I mentioned that his menswear has been rather incoherent in its themes, despite being coherent in design methods.
                    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                    Comment

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