Raf Simons

[Buckwheat]

S/S1997

The collection was presented in a photo studio in Paris. A video showing 14 teenagers who run out of school and finally come together in an imaginary U.F.O., an environment created by themselves where they can indulge their fantasies in contrast with their daily life and earthly things such as school, parents, etc.

The showroom was decorated with three large pictures taken from the video, and with 25 seventies style Plexiglas photo-cubes with photo’s of the teenagers.

The silhouette is again tight and close to the body, inspired by the Mods and the Punks in combination with schoolboys and surf boys.
The materials are classical combined with vivid colours. They look old and washed off.
Trash t-shirts with prints or pearls and shirts embroidered with ‘Teenage Summer camp’.
The colours: red, jeans, brown, kaki, white, grey and black.

photo credit: © Ronald Stoops

[Buckwheat]

[Buckwheat]

S/S 1998

Black Palms: featuring heavy metal-style prints, cut-off sleeves and tight tailoring, set to a soundtrack of Belgian New Beat. Fashion show at a garage in Paris.

The graphic design of the 'Black Palms' was made by Franky Claeys.

credit:
first image - © Franky Claeys
backstage photos - © Ronald Stoops

[Fade to Black]

I don't know if it's just due to the nature of photos from that time or what, but I love those S/S 98 photos...they (the shots and clothes themselves) perfectly document the affectations of youth without seeming too conscious in posture. Difficult balance to achieve from a high fashion angle...seems like everybody's trying to do it, only other case I can think of is Slimane got this down in some of his better moments as clothes designer, I feel his photography doesn't quite have that 'just right' spontaneity, even though it often comes across as that's exactly what he's trying to do.

[lowrey]

Oh Raf - where art thou.

[Faust]

Oh Raf - where art thou.

Daydreaming about being the next Karl Lagerfeld?

[Faust]

my pleasure

[kunk75]

so sad. have seen 8-10 raf buys and i couldn;t come up with one single solitary special, well-conceived or interesting piece. wha happened? even the polarizing a/w07-s/s08 collections are looking pretty good in retrospect.

[North]

The upcoming AW collection is even worse.
I've only seen one piece that I'd want.

[NoAppreciation]

A recent "older" pickup

[Sombre]

so sad. have seen 8-10 raf buys and i couldn;t come up with one single solitary special, well-conceived or interesting piece. wha happened? even the polarizing a/w07-s/s08 collections are looking pretty good in retrospect.

I thought A/W 08 wasn't bad. Had some solid pieces. And I did pick one piece from current collection. I'll try to post it tonight.

[NoAppreciation]

I thought A/W 08 wasn't bad. Had some solid pieces. And I did pick one piece from current collection. I'll try to post it tonight.

I'm looking forward to F/W 08 to see the return to tailoring.

[Buckwheat]

Disorder-Incubation-Isolation Collection Autumn/Winter 1999/2000

9th season, the collection is shown in a Filmstudio “Studio Carrère” on the Avenue du Président Wilson no. 50 in Paris close to Porte de la Chapelle on Friday 29th January 1999 at 09h30 pm.

A little group of teenagers opened the show, with black flags featuring the following words:

DISORDER INCUBATION ISOLATION

These words are important to describe the image of the collection, and it is also a memorial to Joy Division.

The global idea of this collection is to make a reference to the past, specially the first two parts of the show. Fashion goes so quick that people tend to forget the historical meaning of clothes, especially costumes. This is why the opening of the show was like a procession to create the right atmosphere.

The most important part was a group of models wearing black Capes, classical, asymmetric and circle shapes in ¾ length, a variety of design, an other group wearing ceremonial costumes, shirts with cuffs and collar that are removable. The hair was very constructed in sharp lines. The first three groups had black coloured hair. And in the last part the hair changed to blond coloured hair, but still very constructed hairstyles.

The colour of the outfit changed from black to grey. Raf Simons likes plain, black and monotone, but also he likes the past in contrast to the future. The music was in this part very fast.
The blond group was wearing long light grey and dark grey coats with zippers. The silhouettes are very clean: shirts in classical weaving wool fabrics without collars. Nearly each light grey outfit was with a white “R” Turtleneck and the dark grey outfits with a red “R” Turtleneck.

The music of the show:
1 Placebo - ION
2 Suede - INTRODUCINE THE BAND
3 Ultravox - VIENNA
4 The art of noise - INSTRUMENTS OF DARKNESS
5 The art of noise – PARANOIMIA

photo credit: © Bert Houbrechts

[Buckwheat]

[Faust]

/\ another iconic collection.

[Buckwheat]

Yes love the knitwears. And those coats! man...good memories :)

Is that the same year he did Ruffo Research with VB? Those leathers remind me...

[diamonds]

will add to that:











Not as nice quality...

[Buckwheat]

Thanks Diamonds

Summa cum laude Collection Spring/Summer 2000

Both inspired by MENSA students and the kids of gabba (a youth movement from Holland and Belgium, most recognisable by its speeded-up techno music); featuring bomber jackets, kaleidoscopic prints and white leather.
Fashion show at film studios 'Studio Carrère' in Paris.

photo credit: © Els Voorspoels ; Videostills

[Buckwheat]

photo credit: © Etienne Tordoir

[Faust]

are these from my blog, diamonds?