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Thread: Geoffrey B. Small

  1. #301
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    Amazing! Thank you so kindly for sharing with us. I wish all my clothes had this sort of story and detail behind it.

    I purchased the grezzo low-gauge linen trousers (amazing!) and now I feel bad for separating it from its accompanying Sack Coat. Will have to enquire to see if it is still available.

    You probably consciously choose not to include this, but I would love to see a picture of the full Mr. Tomoyuki Furukawa custom fitted jacket.

    Thanks again!

  2. #302

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    Dear Monty 76,

    Thanks so much for your post.

    You are correct in that we did not photo Mr. Tomoyuki's pieces. However, the LUJ04.1 is the same model design as the jacket worn by Koos Faber above in the previous post. We made it along with the Afghan salwah trouser for him. Another suit was made for the store. But Mr. Tomoyuki's jacket is the only one with the fully handsewn shoulder.

    We also made 2 LUJ04.2 jacket and LUJ07 waistcoat combinations in L.Parisotto organic antique cotton seersucker and old fashion stripes for MinorityRev as in the photos below. One for Mr. Tomoyuki with his jacket again having the fully handset shoulder construction, and the other for the store.

    Again, the photos are not of his actual hand constructed shoulder jackets, and the handset shoulder does have a special look to it, but they do depict the design models his jackets were made in. Hope this helps a little.

    In regards to the sack coat, please do contact the guys at Pollyanna, I'm sure they will be glad to assist in whatever way they can.

    Thanks again and best wishes,

    Geoffrey







  3. #303

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    i really liked the clothing when i saw the update in the pollyanna thread, but after coming here and reading the story behind the clothing, i'm kind of blown away. so i just want to pop in here and applaud Geoffrey for all of his efforts. his spirit and enthusiasm are inspirational and his ability to continue to put his heart and soul into his work is truly admirable. not to mention his unwavering commitment to environmental sustainability.

    this post is verging on ass kissiness but the truth is that for me its just refreshing to see work that so embodies our goal of separating fashion from consumerism and celebrity culture.

    bravo!

  4. #304
    Senior Member Mail-Moth's Avatar
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    I must say that, wether on this thread or on the one dedicated to Pollyanna, what is shown from your recent work is simply beautiful. Thanks for sharing.
    I can see a hat, I can see a cat,
    I can see a man with a baseball bat.

  5. #305

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    I really like where the Afghan trousers break. Material looks so light-weight, too (is it really so?)

  6. #306

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    Truly amazed by GBS. Had my first opportunity to handle his work last week and I wish I could have bought the store out! My words and photos can`t do justice.

  7. #307

    Default New Works: May 2010

    Dear SZ'ers,

    May was a very busy month for us in the workrooms. It was also notable for its strange weather patterns almost everywhere. Some had extremely hot weather and others extremely cold for this time of year. May was also fraught with epic environmental events. A single volcano in Iceland closed most of the world's international air traffic indefinitely for several weeks. Entire areas such as Guatemala, Chile, Haiti continue to be devasted by above normal frequency and intensity of storms, hurricanes, earthquakes. With its disastrous effects still hidden in the depths, the Gulf of Mexico oil disaster has no end in sight and now threatens to affect us even more with predictions of an "above normal "hurricane season. And the madness of the global nuclear energy renaissance and its accompanying nuclear arms proliferation is accelerating everywhere with deals being made that are leading us into a new and deadly plutonium economy that will have far less transparency, independent public oversight, and degree of safety protection for the general population than the oil industry which has caused the Gulf of Mexico catastrophe.

    If such a thing can result from a single oil rig mistake, what's the guarantee that the same or even much worse can't happen with a nuclear power facility which will release mountains of deadly radioactive material that will remain active for up to 4 billion years into the future? A promise from your government and the big global corporation that is running the thing, that they know how to handle it all? Now we know something about their promises and their "know-how" in a catastrophe, don't we? Now we know that perhaps they are little better than the sweatshop factories in Bangladesh that are banging out fast fashion in a hurry by the millions of pieces in slavery conditions that are designed to fall apart after weeks, and sold to a public that doesn't have a clue what they are being lead to buy into. Yeah that's right, they're just wingin' it like everybody else. "If there's a problem, we'll deal with it later. For now make as much money as you can and forget about tomorrow." Well the problems are happening and tomorrow is here. Our system and way of life is deadly sick and it's dead wrong. It is the industrial revolution, and it is the grand mistake. It must be stopped and fixed by all of us. Now more than ever, we are seeing the unmistakable signs of how closely connected all of us are to this planet and its ecosystem. And fashion needs to reflect, respond and do its part to relate and do something about today's environmental and human realities---starting first and foremost with a complete overhaul in the way its entire industry communicates with, and treats, people, resources and planet-- and of course, how we go about dressing ourselves and providing clothes for others to wear and use.

    On that note, here are some new pieces that came out of our workrooms recently in May for various clients around the world that aim to provide an alternative working model to industry and consumer norms, and provide superior service and wear in both hot and cold and otherwise strange weather conditions. Nowadays, you never know what may pop up next...

    Best wishes, Geoffrey






    Geoffrey B. Small for StyleZeitgeist
    New Works : May 2010






    The featherlight hand tea dyed linen jacket for Ageha, Kobe

    Hand tea dyed Superlight pure Varese linen 5-button jacket with handpainted vintage recycled buttons and handsewn buttonholes made for Ageha in Kobe, Japan. Maximum production 5 pieces for the entire world. An antithesis to fast fashion, this piece is designed to last. Guaranteed for one full year free parts, repairs and workroom services. Beyond a year, our workroom services continue to be available at standard workroom rates.









    The 19th century waistcoat for Minority Rev, Fukuoka


    19th century original pattern waistcoat made in a remarkable hand cold dyed organic untreated double-faced antique raised striped cotton woven exclusively for us by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Vicenza Italy, with handcasted 15th century Italian buckle design reproduction made by Massimo Beccaria in Siena, probably Italy's best medieval metal craftsman. Only 2 pieces of this super limited edition design were made for the entire world, both exclusively for MinorityRev in Fukuoka, Japan. One has been acquired by SZ member Super Turbo Taco (see previous post) with much appreciation and thanks on our end from all of us here at Cavarzere.
















    The hand tea dyed cotton t-shirt with hand cut circular inserts in
    organic L. Parisotto linen, cotton and seersucker striped fabrics


    Only 13 pieces of this design were made by hand in the world from pure cotton jersey knit and very special greggio tailor’s organic cotton striped fabrics (which were not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, then hand dyed in our studios using Ceylon teas. Made exclusively for John Bull Private Labo stores in Japan at Harajuku, Kyoto, Okayama and Shinsaibashi (Osaka), and Kamille in Paris.











  8. #308

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    The LUT19 hand dyed pure organic cotton jersey oversize t-shirt with real
    mother-of-pearl buttons made in Padova, extensive hand stitch work and
    hand sewn buttonholes



    This super limited edition design is one of only 11 pieces made by hand in the world. It was made exclusively for AL in Kichijoji, Kamille in Paris and IF Boutique in Dubai from 100% organic cotton jersey knit using very special handstitched detailing and buttonholes and real mother of pearl buttons made for us in Padova, Italy. The piece was then specially cold hand dyed in our studios for minimum carbon impact and maximum patina effects using organic vegetable dyes and salt.





















    The LUT11 hand dyed pure organic cotton jersey oversize t-shirt with real
    mother-of-pearl buttons made in Padova, extensive hand stitch work and
    hand sewn buttonholes.



    Hand dyed pure cotton jersey t-shirt with L.Parisotto organic cotton stripe fabric placket and pocket details, and massive pure horn and olive wood buttons made exclusively for us by Italy's best artisan buttonmakers in Parma with corresponding oversized handstitched buttonholes. Only 16 pieces were made in the world for Journal Standard in Japan, Plaguesearch in Hiroshima, and Kamille in Paris.











  9. #309

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    The special hand dyed Mako cotton t-shirt for Pollyanna


    This super limited edition specially hand dyed t-shirt design is one of
    only 8 pieces made in the entire world exclusively for Pollyanna
    in Barnsley UK, from a classic Italian crew neck shape, cut in a
    very special luxurious Italian pure Mako cotton superfine ultra-soft
    jersey. It was then specially cold hand dyed in our studios using our
    latest state of the art techniques for minimum carbon impact and
    maximum patina effects. The special hand dye process is unique in the
    world and requires over 4 and a half hours of expert and painstaking
    work for each piece to achieve its unique colors and special effects.
    Variations in color and color density are not imperfections or
    irregularities, but specific characteristics of the special hand dyeing
    technique. The design also features a real hand stitched label in
    luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Filo Seta Milano thread.














    The LUJ20 vintage Italian Ospedale worker's jacket for 58's in Frankfurt


    This super limited edition LUJ20 design is one of only 3 pieces made by hand in the world, exclusively for Fifty Eights in Frankfurt am Main, using a recycle vintage cotton Italian ospedale (hospital) jacket and a very special greggio organic tailor's striped cotton by L.Parisotto and extensive hand stitching detailing using luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Seta Milan threads. The piece was specially washed and treated by hand in our studios for extra aging and softness.










    Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 01-06-2011 at 12:18 PM.

  10. #310

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    The LUO01 one-of-a-kind overall salopette for Minority Rev


    This design is a one-of-a-kind unique piece made exclusively for Minority-Rev in Fukuoka. It uses a very special greggio tailor’s organic pure special houndstooth weave cotton (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, special cotton and hand cut vintage recycle garment leather suspenders made by hand in our studios, special buttons in real copper made for us in Padova Italy, and real hand sewn buttonholes and detail stitching. The piece was specially cold dyed by hand, with a special technique using only vegetable organic dyes and salt.


















    The LUJ18 organic double-face linen and cotton redingote for Journal Standard


    Only 7 pieces of this LUJ18 redingote were made by hand in the world exclusively for Journal Standard in Japan from our own exclusive original redingote pattern from our research using a fantastic greggio double-faced organic tailor's linen and cotton (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, then cold hand dyed in
    our studios for minimum carbon impact using organic vegetable dyes and
    salt. The piece also features special real olive wood buttons made exclusively for us in Padova, Italy, and real hand stitched buttonholes, working sleeve buttonholes, and detailing.





  11. #311

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    The Reversible 2-in-1 LUG01 organic cotton skirt for Journal Standard and Fifty Eights


    This super limited edition LUG01 piece is one of only 15 pieces made in the world. It was made by hand exclusively for Journal Standard and features a fully reversible design for a true "2-in-1" concept use and extra investment value. It was cut from and a very special greggio tailor's organic cotton hickory stripe seersucker cloth (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, special gauze cotton striped linings from Como, and pure cotton Venetian lace. The special combinations of buttons feature special hand made buttons in real horn and olive wood made exclusively for us in Parma, Italy, hand made covered buttons, and real mother-of-pearl buttons from Padova, along with real handstitch buttonholes in Italian pure cotton threads. It was then specially cold hand dyed in our studios for minimum carbon impact, using organic vegetable dyes and salt for maximum patina hand dyed effects.


















    The LUJ15 jacket with removable hood for John Bull Private Labo, Japan

    This super limited edition design is one of only 3 pieces made by hand in the world exclusively for John Bull Private Labo from our own exclusive original pattern from our research using a very special greggio organic tailor’s antique weave cotton (untreated no chemicals) woven for us exclusively by L. Parisotto at Sarcedo, Italy, then hand cold dyed in our studios for added softness, patina and aging. The piece features special removable hood, covered buttons and real olive wood buttons made exclusively for us in Padova, Italy, and real hand stitched buttonholes.




  12. #312

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    The LUJ11 organic cashmere and cotton late 19th century jacket for Pollyanna, Barnsley


    One of only 3 pieces made in the entire world exclusively for Pollyanna in Barnsley UK, this LUJ11 special hand made jacket is cut from our original pattern with a special late 19th lapel detail design, in a very special greggio tailor's pure superlight cashmere and organic cotton (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in
    Sarcedo, Italy. It was then specially cold hand dyed in our studios for minimum carbon impact and maximum patina effects. The design also features some really beautiful light olive wood buttons from Padova, Italy, real working sleeve buttonholes, and 12 hand stitched buttonholes (each one requires 8-10 minutes to cut and sew).


















    The organic double-face linen & cotton modified Afghan trouser for Minority Rev


    This super limited edition LUP04 trouser design is one of only 2 pieces made by hand in the entire world, both exclusively for MinorityRev in Japan from our own exclusive modified Afghan trouser pattern from our research using a very special greggio double-faced organic tailor's linen and cotton (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family
    in Sarcedo, Italy, then cold hand dyed in our studios for minimum carbon impact using organic vegetable dyes and salt. The piece features special real olive wood buttons made exclusively for us in Padova, Italy, and real hand stitched buttonholes, back pockets, and detailing with Italian pure cotton threads, and en extremely long 40+cm fly front and nickel zipper.



  13. #313

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    The LUJ07 old-fashioned organic double-face cotton striped waistcoat

    Luigi Parisotto's masterpiece double-faced organic cotton "old-fashioned" antique stripe fabric forms the base of perhaps one of our most successful selling pieces of the season. This limited edition design is one of only 29 pieces made by hand for the world from a modified 19th century original waistcoat pattern from our historical research using a very special greggio tailor's organic pure special antique weave cotton (no chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, and special patchworked Bemberg jacquard linings from Como, all specially cold hand washed in our studios for minimum carbon impact and extra aging and softness. The piece features special olive wood and leather buttons made exclusively for us in Padova and Parma Itally, and real hand stitched buttonholes and detailing in pure silk Bozzolo Reale Seta Milan threads. The piece was made exclusively for Journal Standard, John Bull Private Labo, and Minority Rev in Japan, Kamille in Paris, 58's in Frankfurt and Pollyanna in Barnsley UK.







  14. #314

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    A special hand dyed dark version of the LUJ07 was also produced
    as a world exclusive for Pollyanna.



















    The LUJ04.2 special dark version seersucker jacket for Pollyanna

    This super limited edition LUJ04.2 special hand made jacket design is the only one of its kind made in the world this season. It was made exclusively for Mr. Mark Britton of Pollyanna in Barnsley UK, from our original pattern and cut in a very special greggio tailor's organic pure special antique seersucker cotton (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy. It was combined with special deluxe Bemberg viscose rep striped linings from Como, then specially hand dyed in our using only vegetable organic dyes and salt. The design also features remarkable real artisan made horn, bone and olive wood buttons from Parma and Padova, Italy, real working sleeve buttonholes, and 12 hand stitched buttonholes (each one requires 8-10 minutes to cut and sew) and hand stitch detailing in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano Seta thread.


    Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 01-06-2011 at 12:30 PM.

  15. #315

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    '


    Special Order Bespoke organic seersucker
    long jacket for Nuzyn, Amsterdam


    As part of our ongoing commitment to continuously raise the bar and set new standards for the designer industry, our unique special order and bespoke services are slowly and carefully being made available now to a very few select retail partners around the world including Koos Faber's Nuzyn and the new Minority Rev project opening this month in Ginza (Tokyo). The one-of-a-kind special order long jacket design below was photographed at one of its fitting stages prior to buttonhole construction and other finishing operations, and is being made by hand exclusively to order for a private special order client (one of Holland's most famous legal attorneys) at Koos Faber's Nuzyn in Amsterdam using L. Parisotto's very special organic pure cotton antique seersucker fabric woven for us exclusively in Sarcedo, Italy and luxurious Bemberg viscose paisley jacquard weave linings from Como, Italy. The piece was specially hand dyed in our studios using only vegetable organic dyes and salt for its special color and patina effects.













    Advanced modified Afghan pleated tailored trouser
    in organic pinstripes


    Designed for men and women, this super limited edition LUP06 design is one of only 12 pieces made by hand in the world this season. Of these, only four were made for all of the Middle East exclusively for IF Boutique in Dubai, three were made for all of Europe for 58's in Frankfurt and a total of five were made for all of Japan and Asia-- 2 pieces for Minority Rev in Fukuoka, 2 pieces for AL Select in Kichijoji Tokyo and a 1 piece for the personal order of Mr. Shinichi Goto, the chief of the John Bull Private Labo Co. Ltd retail division. The design is made from our own exclusive modified Afghan trouser pattern from our research using a greggio pinstripe organic tailor's cotton (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, then cold hand dyed in our studios for minimum carbon impact using organic vegetable dyes and salt...resulting in a fabric with a very light, soft and wonderful hand.
















    New experimentations in organic jersey and hand treatment techniques:

    This super limited edition LUA01 scarf muffler design is one of only 7 pieces made by hand in the world. Of these, only 3 pieces were made for all of the Middle East and Europe exclusively for IF Boutique in Dubai, and 3 for all of Asia and Japan for AL Select in Kichijoji Tokyo from a 100% organic cotton jersey using very special handcut incision detailing and a special superlight cotton gauze striped lining woven in Como, Italy. The piece was then specially cold hand washed in our studios for minimum carbon impact and maximum aging and softness effects.



    Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 01-06-2011 at 12:31 PM.

  16. #316

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    The LUT15 3-in-1 organic jersey t-shirt and tank combination
    for IF Dubai and AL Select in Kichijoji


    A continuation of the technique can be seen in this 3-in-1 two-piece design, one of only 7 sets made by hand in the world for IF in Dubai and AL Select in Kichijoji from 100% organic cotton jersey knit for the top piece with handcut incision detailing, handsewn buttonholes and a special ribbed knit 90 percent cotton and 10 percent viscose tank top with organic linen covered buttons. Each of the pieces can be worn by themselves separately, or together giving a true 3-in-1 design concept use and value. The piece was then specially cold hand dyed in our studios for minimum carbon impact using organic vegetable dyes and salt, resulting in a marvelous patina of mottled, even dirty looking effects.





















    The LUG03 organic seersucker skirt with recycle vintage leather belt story and taglio-vivo detailing

    We loved Luigi Parisotto's organic seersucker fabrics so much that we wanted to expand beyond the extremely successful, classic beautifully tailored old fashioned style pieces a little, and also have a chance to play a little more with the fabric and have some fun with the fabrics in the collection. We were able to do so with some of our women's collection, mixing organic fabrics with recycle techniques and hand washes and treatments all together. For example here this super limited edition LUG03 pleated skirt design is one of only 10 pieces made by hand for the entire world from a special hand-pleated design from our research using a very special greggio tailor's organic pure special antique seersucker weave cotton (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, and special handcut recycle vintage leather belt loop pieces, metal zipper made for us in Padova Italy, and hand cut taglio-vivo border detailing contrasted with some seams that are beautifully full-finished in Italian raso-satin bias tape, then specially cold hand washed in our studios for minimum carbon impact and extra aging and softness. Of the 10 pieces produced, only 4 were made for all of the Middle East (IF Boutique, Dubai), 3 for all of Europe (Fifty Eights, Frankfurt), and 3 for all of Japan and Asia (Minority Rev, Fukuoka).




  17. #317

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    New forms and shapes in short trousers: LUP13 and LUP14


    This super limited edition LUP13 design combines wide leg comfort, classic jeans construction forms and tailored details such as handcut besom pockets contrasting with the back yoke design. It is one of only 4 pieces made by hand for the entire world exclusively for IF Boutique in Dubai using a very special greggio tailor's organic pure special stripe cotton (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, and special metal zipper made for us in Padova Italy, and hand sewn buttonhole and real horn button made for us in Parma, Italy--which was specially hand dyed in our studios and sewn on with pure silk bozzolo threads. The piece was also specially cold hand dyed in our studios for minimum carbon impact and maximum patina effect.





  18. #318

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    This super limited edition LUP12 trouser design is one of only 6 pieces made by hand for the entire world exclusively for AL Select in Kichijoji (Tokyo) Japan from a special modified 18th century leg trouser design from our research using a very special greggio tailor's organic pure special stripe linen (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, and special tree root buttons made for us in Padova Italy, 10 hand sewn buttonholes and 6 special elongated pocket flap buttonholes following an original 18th century buttonhole design . The piece was also specially cold hand dyed in our studios for minimum carbon impact and maximum patina effect.




  19. #319

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    Hand made recycle vintage leather bags


    In the 1990's, we pioneered recycle leather bag design and steadily raised the level of design and quality to unprecedented levels for recycle work. So much so, that in 2006, we received a special commission by Louis Vuitton Japan to produce a special GBS collection of our unique recycle leather bags for their flagship penthouse store in Tokyo. Today, we continue to design and make very special leather bag pieces from vintage recycled leather garments that are establishing a new concept of responsible leather luxury for the 21st century. This super limited edition GB2big oversized bag design is a world exclusive this season, made by hand exclusively for IF Boutique in Dubai. The special design reduces environmental impact and methane and carbon emissions, and helps fight global warming by using luxurious recycled vintage Italian calfskin jacket leathers (instead of new leather which contributes greatly to global warming), specially hand cut and assembled in our workrooms into a special design. The special leather patchwork required no less than 5 hours of expert recycle design work. The luxurious pure Massaua cotton duck twill linings were chosen for their unique combination of softness, durability and beauty. The special metal zipper was made for us in Padova, Italy. A collector's item. only one piece was made this season for the entire world, exclusively for IF in Dubai and is handsigned on the inside.














    This smaller super limited edition GB2 bag design is one of only 2 pieces made in the entire world this season by hand exclusively one for IF Boutique in Dubai and one for Kamille in Paris. The special design reduces environmental impact and methane and carbon emissions, and helps fight global warming by using luxurious recycle vintage Italian calfskin jacket leathers specially hand cut and assembled in our workrooms into a special patchwork design. The special patchwork required no less than 5 hours of expert recycle design work. The luxurious pure Massaua cotton duck twill linings were chosen for their unique combination of softness, durability and beauty. The special metal zipper was made for us in Padova, Italy. Both pieces were handsigned.

    Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 06-06-2010 at 03:35 PM.

  20. #320

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    New stitches, details, techniques: the LUT14 for AL Select


    An elaborate ruffled detailing technique that utilizes some exquisite vintage Venetian linen and cotton laces and a very special 6-needle overlock stitch technique that we have developed in our research was used for this super limited edition LUT14 t-shirt dress concept. The technique yields a decidedly 17th and 18th baroque inspired looking detail, yet is executed in modern day simple t-shirt jersey knits that are able to be worn in very sporty, urban or casual circumstances. It is one of only 3 pieces made in the world exclusively for one of the world's very best avant-garde retailers, AL Select in Kichijoji, from 100% organic cotton jersey knit and a special ribbed knit 90 percent cotton and 10 percent viscose tank top with real clear horn and panama straw buttons made for us in Parma, Italy. The piece was then specially cold hand dirty dyed in our studios for minimum carbon impact using organic vegetable dyes and salt.












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