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Thread: Geoffrey B. Small

  1. #401

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    ARTIST AND ACTIVIST

    Henryk Górecki, died Friday Nov 12 aged 76, a Polish composer who achieved immense popularity in Western Europe and America in the 1990s thanks to the ethereal splendour of his Symphony No 3 (Symphony of Sorrowful Songs). But he was also an important political voice in Poland, for example, writing his controversial Beatus Vir for Pope John Paul II's return to his homeland after being elected pontiff in 1979. During the dying days of communism Górecki was seen as an agitator by the authorities and was frequently followed and had his phone tapped. He had started his musical life as a pioneer of the Polish avant garde and his work was often dismissed for its violence, both in its sound and in the manner of its performance. Symphony of Sorrowful Songs was originally conceived as a tribute to the victims of the Holocaust. In each of the three movements a soprano sings a Polish text: a 15th-century lament; a message scribbled on the wall of a Gestapo cell; and a Silesian prayer of a mother searching for her missing son. Repression, violence and the subjugation of innocent victims on this planet has far from disappeared. The music and its message, are as relevant today as ever. You can listen to some of it here. RIP Mr. Gorecki and thank you...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=miLV0o4AhE4&feature=fvw




    .

  2. #402

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    Wow amazing collection with a lot of great wearable pieces that still have an extremely high level of sophistication. Great message as well.

  3. #403

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    GEOFFREY B. SMALL
    exclusively for StyleZeist




    NEW WORKS

    GJ03N


    (words and images about a jacket and a way of life)



    To start off, I have picked a piece that is futile to explain to you in
    words or images...but just one touch in person with your own real
    hands and you will begin to understand what this piece is all about.







    You see, the fabric in the picture is not just pure cashmere. It is
    pure Alashan cashmere. From the special region in Mongolia where
    the finest cashmere yarns on the entire planet originate from. There is
    no other like it in the world. And in the hands of the oldest working
    wool making family in the world still in operation today, it becomes an
    almost unreal phenomenon. For over two and half centuries, the
    people at Fratelli Piacenza (founded in 1733) have been making the
    world's best cashmere cloths, and this one is incredible. Pure alashan
    cashmere blazer-weight cloth, at almost 150 euros a meter wholesale,
    an investment in fabric representing almost 400 euros alone for a
    single jacket before a single cut or stitch is put into it.

    And then, we made it even better...

    ...with seven hours of our own secret process of dyeing and fabric
    finishing totally by hand, making it darker, softer and more irregular in
    texture and form. To achieve this requires hard, physical demanding
    work with heat, steel, water, fire, tongs, ladel, brush, sweat and yes,
    stress. Consider that if you botch up a formula or operation, or use too
    much heat or motion at the wrong moment, you can ruin a piece
    worth up to several thousand euros in a second. No, this work is not for
    beginners. And it is not easy. So, all you industrial copiers and so-
    called artisan brands out there--be our guest. Go ahead and try to copy
    these 'till the cows come home. For these are the kind of results that
    can only be achieved if you earn them. There are no shortcuts--no
    special machine, no quick industrial process, no de-skilled-low-wage-
    -throw-away laborers that can even come close to coming anywhere
    near these results (you see you need to take care of your people well
    enough so that they stay with you for many years, a long enough time
    to develop the total mastery of the skills needed to do the job). No
    fellows, keep your shortcuts for those who prefer to wear the
    equivalent of sandpaper at twice the price, they'll be happy as 'pigs
    in ........', and you'll make much more money that way.


    But for these kind of results-
    there is only one way to enter such a narrow gate...


    Do the same work we do. Experience the same toil, pressure and pain
    each time, and yes maybe, if you have the skill and technique, you
    will get the same result. And this is why we do it. Because what you
    get in the end, is fabric so soft, and with so much drape, it resembles a
    liquid in solid form. Touch it, and it will take your breath away. Put it
    on, and it will all but melt over the contours of your body, enveloping
    you in a shroud of soft, warm, peaceful security and comfort that
    redefines the concept of urban body armour in a whole new dimension.
    A combination of nature, human energy, and skill, that represents a
    history, a culture, and way of life that is all but disappeared. It is our history,
    our culture, and our way of life- for a precious few makers, and
    wearers, still intent, to defy the destructive forces of this industrial age
    and the global corporate consumerism we live in, to the very end.

    Live free or die.
















    Designed with a priority from the inside, our lining story begins
    with Como, the city on the lake north of Milan that for the past six
    centuries has been the capital of weaving and crafting the best silk and
    fine filament fabrics in the entire world. Here, masters like the people
    at Tessitura Mauri still create linings that blow your mind, each one a
    painting in itself with colors so subtle and balanced like nature that you
    can use them in a myriad of ways--like I chose to do with this one on
    the sleeve linings of the GJ03N (above).









    For the linings of the body, we created an assembly of exquisite
    fabric pieces, also from Como, to create a really personal story that is
    both beautiful and different than what is expected when one opens a
    typical 'designer' jacket. Like old palazzi milanesi, quiet, somber, and
    reserved on the outside- but inside, one can display a warmth and
    heartful personality unlike any other...an advanced and unexpected
    combination that studies contrasts: Bemberg regimentia striped taffeta
    and blacked out pure silk floral printed satin, mixes of hard and soft,
    structural form and liquidity, straight linear lines and soft floral curves,
    all harmoniously working together, pulled partly in synch with the
    watercolor-like wash effects of the very subtle hand dyeing work.










    Can you see them?
    Even with the aid of a 5 megapixel macro lens shot, you still do
    have to concentrate a little--but they're there, dozens of micro hand
    pick stitches in pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano threads...around the collar
    edges, in other subtle places and even more in the fourteen handsewn
    buttonholes on both left and right fronts, each one taking about ten
    minutes to create, a total of more than 2 and half hours of arduous,
    slow, and totally expert work without a single machine involved.











    Our fanatical approach to buttons is well-known among people
    who know. In fact, many of our pieces can be recognized by the
    unique quality of their button story and selection alone. And this piece
    is no exception. A subtle, remarkable array of shapes, textures and
    forms in handmade leather, horn and bone all created exclusively for
    us in Parma, Italy by Botonificio Fontana, whom we believe to be one
    of, if not the, best buttonmakers in the world today. But many of
    the buttons you see here are not at all as they arrived to us from
    Parma, for we too also added much to their character, applying a
    series of hand dyeing and finishing techniques to get them to their very
    special final state, harmoniously blending and embellishing the form
    and beauty of the jacket in a manner that is undeniably, and uniquely
    ours, and of course, the jacket's prospective owner...


































  4. #404

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    Inspite of its extreme technology, luxury, and handcraft
    research, the GJ03N is a piece that is meant to be seriously worn and
    lived in. Its loose, relaxed shoulder cut and silhouette, and full super-
    fine linings are designed to provide significant ease and movement.
    Handcut interior besom welt pockets and special exterior seam pockets
    give plenty of places to carry what's needed on-person during travels.






















    And our signature 14-button 19th century front design (which we
    pioneered to the world in Paris over seven years ago) offers a number
    of different yet very classic styling options for wearing from double-
    breasted naval blazer and peacoat style buttoning interpretations, to
    earlier 19th century Napoleonic-era buttoned-back looks - all in
    impeccable taste and of course, incredible Alashan cashmere comfort...






























    Only 3 in the world

    One of the most exclusive clothing designs in the world...
    and one of the most valuable, only three GJ03N pieces have been built
    for the entire world in 2010-- requiring up to ten months delivery wait.
    One was created for Kamille in Paris, another for Persuade in Bilbao,
    and the third for Minority Rev in Japan. Each one is handsigned, created
    by hand, and fully backed with lifetime access to our legendary workroom
    repair and alterations services at Cavarzere Venezia, Italy.










    Thanks very much for reading.
    More new works coming up later.

    Best wishes,


    Geoffrey




    c.copyright 2010 Geoffrey B. Small. all rights reserved worldwide.





  5. #405
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Thank you, Geoffrey. I still remember the tingling in my fingers when I touched this fabric in your showroom. A truly transcendental experience - I dream about those cashmere pieces to this day.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  6. #406

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    I'm always blown away by the detail in your description of the garments. It makes it much more living, if that makes any sense, it's not just pieces of fabric stitched together, but something more.

    It would be really interesting to see some pictures from the actual making of something, of course with your comments to go with it. As you use quite special techniques when doing everything I think that many would enjoy seeing it.

  7. #407

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    Quote Originally Posted by patricks View Post
    Very informative. Thanks for the info on this designer. I never even heard of him and it would seem that he has a portfolio of work that is quite worthy of notice, especially now when raw material costs are so high.
    Nice sig
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

  8. #408

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    Thanks Faust, (((o, Chinorlz, and JoniF...and patricks too...don't worry patrick, you are not alone, most people have never heard of this designer either, glad to hear from you. Best wishes and Happy Thanksgiving to all of you stateside, Geoffrey

  9. #409
    Senior Member Mail-Moth's Avatar
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    Hi Geoffrey,

    This jacket looks simply amazing. This fabric - even if photographs are not enough to say everything, I find they tell a lot in this case. My only regret is not to be able to see the real thing, and god you can trust me I do regret it.
    I can see a hat, I can see a cat,
    I can see a man with a baseball bat.

  10. #410
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    Love the shape of this jacket. It's the perfect length - shorter than the traditional coat but longer than the traditional jacket. I have it in a lightweight linen in light grey, would love a thicker weight, dark version like this, but the cashmere is a bit to extravagant for my wallet. It is perfect though.... thanks for sharing GBS!

  11. #411

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    A mixture of exquisite attention and awareness--your process is beauty, to me.

  12. #412

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    Hi Geoffrey,

    I saw your cashmere blazer and overcoat at Sartoria Loft yesterday and I was overwhelmed by both pieces. As other posters have said, the tactile pleasure of these fabrics is difficult to appreciate in photos. I fell in love with the pieces when I touched them, and once I put the overcoat on, I wasn't wasn't willing to take it off. I will enjoy the colder weather a little more this year.

  13. #413

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    .

    Thanks so much Mail-Moth, Monty 76, Chatoyance and DmD for your kind comments. And DmD it appears you may have acquired one of our pieces from Sartorialoft? If so, thank you very much and please let me know how everything works, we remain with David at your disposition for any questions or assistance. Will post up shortly on the special Sartorialoft pieces. Thanks again to all of you. Best wishes, Geoffrey


    .

  14. #414

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    maybe i am drawing unfair or short sighted parallels but with all the PH love as of late, where is there not more love for g b. small? I wish his work was easier to find.

  15. #415

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    .



    GEOFFREY B. SMALL
    exclusively for StyleZeitgeist


    NEW WORKS:







































































    .
    Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 09-11-2014 at 10:21 AM.

  16. #416

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    c.copyright 2010 Geoffrey B. Small. all rights reserved worldwide.
    Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 09-11-2014 at 10:22 AM.

  17. #417

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    absolutely beautiful stuff...hope I can experience these pieces at some point soon...

  18. #418
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    Geoffrey - a work of art!
    Although your clothes speak for themselves I thoroughly enjoy reading the creative journey they take to bring them to fruition.
    Thank you for sharing.

  19. #419

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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoffrey B. Small View Post
    .

    Thanks so much Mail-Moth, Monty 76, Chatoyance and DmD for your kind comments. And DmD it appears you may have acquired one of our pieces from Sartorialoft? If so, thank you very much and please let me know how everything works, we remain with David at your disposition for any questions or assistance. Will post up shortly on the special Sartorialoft pieces. Thanks again to all of you. Best wishes, Geoffrey

    .
    Geoffrey, that is correct. I acquired the long coat. I have to tell you how much I appreciate your attention to detail and fabric selection. This coat in particular has combined that attention to detail with a minimal, timeless design that really spoke to me.

    .

  20. #420

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    Quote Originally Posted by cremaster View Post
    Geoffrey - a work of art!
    Although your clothes speak for themselves I thoroughly enjoy reading the creative journey they take to bring them to fruition.
    Thank you for sharing.
    I agree completely. I have always enjoyed reading your contributions to this site, and the glimpses into your work that you share.

    .

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