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Thread: Geoffrey B. Small

  1. #721

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    That's definitely a better way to view them - but still in an unfortunately low resolution. I have a feeling like these garments look better when you can really get a sense of the depth and textures.
    Even that can't take away from this though:

    Because - damn - that is gorgeous.
    Hopefully Geoffrey can tell a bit more about these pieces at some point.

  2. #722

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    Quote Originally Posted by snafu View Post
    best collection this season by a mile.
    agreed 1000%

    Quote Originally Posted by fit magna caedes View Post
    It's funny, I saw the pictures from this show and loved it, but didn't put it into the mental bag of "A/W fashion shows" out of which I would select my favourite of the season. I suppose I think of seasonal shows as somehow more trend-driven or less timeless than this is? Or I only see a show as part of AWxx/SSxx if it gets onto Nowfashion? I don't know, your comment made me consider how I think about seasonal collections and what gets included or excluded from a particular overarching season in people's minds.

    Because yes, this is my favourite show, at least in terms of "that show which is most full of clothing that I would love to wear".

    also agreed. i feel GBS stands alone. meaning there is literally nothing like it (that i am aware of anyway) so why bother with a comparison. one can only make references, really. to craft and materials and design itself rather than other contemporary designers.
    Last edited by cjbreed; 02-18-2015 at 12:51 PM.
    dying and coming back gives you considerable perspective

  3. #723
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    To be honest, I've only recently discovered the work of Mr Geoffrey B. Small however seeing the latest collection it seems I may become a fan . As a tomboyish woman, I would definitely wear most of the outfits. Based on the pictures of the show, I also find that the relaxed and simple presentation was refreshing. Nothing too crazy and not trying to go over the top with something amazingly new. All in all, love the pieces as well as the presentation.

  4. #724

    Default notes on the TNS02 silk & cashmere blouson shirt/jacket design

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    Dear udbrud, cjbreed, and aya 1293,

    Thank you so much for your extremely kind posts. I am so sorry to take so long to make any post or reply to each of you. The response to our autumn/winter 2015-16 collections "witness" for men, and "forests and trees" for women, presented in Paris in January and March has set new all-time records for a single season's order bookings for us and we have been working non-stop to prepare the production as well complete our existing spring/summer 2015 collection deliveries worldwide. It is Labor Day here in Italy and the rest of Europe, so I am taking the time I would normally have to devote to my staff and operations in the studios on a Friday afternoon to finally catch up a little on SZ...

    Regarding the image in the Eth0s campaign video, it is a great shot by Matteo Carcelli of our super limited edition TNS02 handmade blouson shirt/jacket design. Part of our AW14-15 collection "That's not how I remember it" which sort of took a look at eighties design and forms, the piece is not really new for us. In fact, it is a very, very old design of ours- a reproduction of one of our original “GBS100” series of our famous GBS Ultimate shirt design from our archives which we first developed in 1980 in our 17 Norman Road attic workrooms in Newton, Massachussetts prior to our historic Ultimate shirt campaign.

    So I hope you can imagine both the surprise and the appreciation we all felt when we saw the comments here. Who would have thought that an old design of ours from 35 years ago, would still have some validity and appreciation if you will, in a place like Stylezeitgeist in 2015? Perhaps a vision and lifelong dream of creating real, beautiful, and lasting long-term design by hand is not so far out of the realm of reality as so many people in fashion have tried to tell us over the years.

    Using one of the softest and most remarkable feeling fabrics we have ever used, the ultra-soft ELT 19 superlux silk and cashmere herringbone weave fabric, developed and woven only for us by Luigi Parisotto in Sarcedo Vicenza, Italy... the TNS02 can be recognized by its totally unique assymetric flap wrap-high collar design, concealed button fly-front elements, impeccable clean-finished french-seamed interior construction, and uniquely balanced cut, fit and design, all meticulously adhered to from the 1980 original. The special reproduction piece was made in our current via Spalato workrooms at Cavarzere Venezia Italy with handstitched buttonholes (which require 8-10 minutes to create each one) in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Milano Seta Reale threads, beautifully shaped 4-hole real horn buttons made for us by the Fontana family button masters in Parma, Italy, and a slightly more eased-in sleeve at the shoulder similar to the napolitano-style shoulder style that we felt was correct for its current version and styling. It was also of course, specially hand dyed in our studios using a process which requires at least 12 hours of work for a single piece to achieve its amazing color and mottled patina effects, and its unbelievable softness and loft. Very versatile, the piece feels like the lightest softest blanket you can imagine, and can be worn as a shirt or a light blouson jacket, over shirts and knits or under jackets and coats.

    Only 9 pieces of the TNS02 have been built for the world: 4 for Hostem in London, 1 for Persuade in Bilbao, 3 for Johnbull private labo in Japan, and 1 for Eth0s in Shanghai. Another 2 pieces are currently on our order logs and planned in production for Antoaneta Dyungelyan's idiosyncratic Farenah concept store in Sofia, Bulgaria.

    Some photos from our workrooms of the TNS02 are provided here for your viewing as well. I hope this is helpful and informative. If we can find some time, I will try to put up some things about our women's collection and more soon.

    Thanks again and best wishes,

    Geoffrey and the Team





















































    Nice Under a Jacket too (above: TNS02 shown with the TNJ02 handmade Biella Prince of Wales glen plaid wool five-
    button hand-padstitched canvas-front notch-lapel design jacket as created for Hostem in London for the AW2014-15 season.)






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  5. #725

    Default new works: coal, sand and psychodelia - ss2015 men's collection images

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  6. #726

  7. #727

    Default continued from above

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    hanno collaborato:



    Ratti spa, Guanzate Como

    Fratelli Piacenza 1733 spa, Pollone Biella

    Luigi Parisotto, Sarcedo Vicenza

    Manifattura Ferro srl, Padova

    Fontana srl, Pontecchio di Parma

    Giuseppe Rebesco, San Zenone di Ezzelino Treviso

    Seterie Nordtessile spa, Como

    Tessitura Mauri spa, Como

    Ezio Ghiringhelli spa, Varese

    Bozzoli Filati Seta, Milano




    Prodotto a mano e distribuito da:

    Sartoria artistica
    Geoffrey B. Small
    Via Spalato 50-1 30014
    Cavarzere, Venezia





    Collezione Maschile
    Primavera/Estate MMXV:


    Hostem, London

    Persuade, Bilbao

    Eth0s, Shanghai

    Farenah, Sofia

    Surrender, Singapore

    Arts & Science, Aoyama

    Johnbull private labo
    Harajuku, Okayama, Fukuoka, Shinsaibashi, Namba, Kyoto

    Cathedral, Osaka

    Restrict, Utsunomiya

    Liberte, Kobe

    AL Select, Kichijoji

    Souterrain, Roppongi

    Provogue, Nagoya









    c. copyright MMXV geoffrey b. small all rights reserved.






    .

  8. #728

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    Any West Coast boutiques carry this???

  9. #729

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    Dear redbible, thank you for your question. The answer is not really. Caryl Kim's Noodle Stories is planned to start as an authorized dealer for our women's in the fall/winter 2015-16 season, but will not have this particular collection, which is for men's spring/summer 2015. If you are seriously interested, you should make contact with Hostem, Persuade, Eth0s, or Surrender by email. They have lots of experience taking care of overseas customers who cannot get our collection in their area (and we have many) and fluent English speaking staff who can help you. Arts, AL, Cathedral and Johnbull private lab in Japan are also capable (although their English may be a little less strong - but still more than competent to service your requests). If you need more assist (referrals, email addresses etc.), you can contact us with a pm or email, but please note that our private client services in Italy are now closed to new applicants so we kindly ask that readers please do not ask us to sell to them directly. Our works are currently available solely through our exclusive authorized dealers around the world. I hope this is helpful, and thanks again for your question. Best wishes, Geoffrey

  10. #730

    Default 'witness' in Uomo Collezioni

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    Our latest fall/winter men's Paris collection presentation "witness" is now covered in
    the current issue of UOMO COLLEZIONI. Uomo Collezioni is published in Italy by
    Logos Srl and is the industry's leading print publication for international runway show coverage.

























































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  11. #731

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    "The Art of creating the world's finest clothes and fabrics in Italy is not dead.











    Actually, we feel fine."
















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    (space now limited to 50 persons)
    RSVP: Monsieur Lionel Cisinski at fashiontherapy@free.fr





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  12. #732

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    Quote Originally Posted by aya1293 View Post
    To be honest, I've only recently discovered the work of Mr Geoffrey B. Small however seeing the latest collection it seems I may become a fan . As a tomboyish woman, I would definitely wear most of the outfits. Based on the pictures of the show, I also find that the relaxed and simple presentation was refreshing. Nothing too crazy and not trying to go over the top with something amazingly new. All in all, love the pieces as well as the presentation.
    You're not the only one! Lots of women wear his men's pieces. I've had the opportunity work with Geoffrey's collections and many women like the men's, especially the bottoms and outerwear.

    You will be a fan for life, that I can guarantee! Geoffrey's work has a great sense of individualism and self comfort.

  13. #733

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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoffrey B. Small View Post
    .






    Our latest fall/winter men's Paris collection presentation "witness" is now covered in
    the current issue of UOMO COLLEZIONI. Uomo Collezioni is published in Italy by
    Logos Srl and is the industry's leading print publication for international runway show coverage.


    .
    This was a fantastic show Geoffrey! Love the ending
    Last edited by Ahimsa; 06-30-2015 at 08:57 AM. Reason: Image repost on same page

  14. #734

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    Thank you Jakubdazooo, hope to see you soon again in Paris! Best wishes, Geoffrey






    "RADICALISSIMMO"


    Well the name sort of comes from another idea which everybody in the business that I work with and care about shot down completely, so I had to be flexible and change things a little bit.

    Then as I'm working on the collection I start finding these amazing things and people going on in Northern Italy. All the stuff we have been screaming about and pushing over the past decade… you know sustainability, ethics, innovation, handwork etc. real clothes-making and real clothes design well it's starting to take hold out there… I mean others are hearing us and unlike the rest of the industry, they are not going to give up. We are not slowing down, we are stepping down on the accelerator…

    Fratelli Piacenza in Pollone Biella with almost 300 years in business is the world's oldest woolen mill still in operation today, but let me tell you they have just delivered us the most advanced, cutting-edge cashmere and superfine wool technology the world has ever seen-the lightest pure Alashan cashmere suiting cloth that has ever been created and more for an amazing spring/summer collection…

    Luigi Parisotto in Sarcedo Vicenza now the world's greatest research weaver, has come up with a mind-blowing new set of antique linen, silk, cotton, wool and cashmere yarn weaves in eco-sensitive ways that are just marvelous to the eye and to the touch.

    Ratti the great silk printers in Como, with 3 magnificent exclusive continuation patterns that we are modifying for the very first on our own in our workrooms that will make them even more special and unique in the entire world of collector clothing design.

    And perhaps we have found the best handmade shoemaker in all of Italy today. Aggeo Caccia is a maniac. This guy is a leather-psycho-machine, and he has built 2 shoes for us that we will bring to Paris that will blow everyone away who sees them and touches them for the very first time.

    Tessitura La Columbina in Badoere: the Colombo family is launching a return to their hand loom technology and totally hand-woven fabrics for us with an amazing story that goes back 2 centuries in a region which is in the midst of creating a real silk revival, not just in the printing, not just in the weaving, but in the cultivation of the silk this is going to be the return of an artisan industry that is centuries old here in northern Italy, but they're coming back and they are going to give China a run for the money that they are not prepared for-

    Serica dell Marca founded in 1870 up in Follina Treviso another tremendous force… modern machinery, modern looms, 42 of them, 13 of the state of the art looms in the world today specialized in fine silk fabric creation, and this company is ready to go…

    In Venice, the legendary Fortuny factory founded by the artist Mario Fortuny at the turn of the 20th century world famous for their special magical prints on Egyptian cotton using a secret process on the island of Giudecca, for the first time being used for clothing in almost a century, a result of our unending drive to push the envelope hand made research and technologies.

    All these companies are working with the greatest names in corporate luxury, but now they are working with us at the leading frontiers of avant-garde Paris collection research work. And we are all driven by one common goal, one single objective- to make the most amazing, the best, the very best, fabric and clothing that anybody in the world today can make. And it's all going to come from an area in northern Italy. We are all working together on this. And it's an amazing thing. It's a grass-roots, back-to-the-soil, revival movement for artisan fabric making and clothes-making at the highest levels by the most experienced and most expert practioners in the world today.

    The unique nature of this collection's development and the speed at which this massive work needed to be done with, did not allow us to have any preconceived plan. We had to go at it one fabric, one material, one piece at a time, in a race against time to get into Paris. So, we will have no outfit plan for the show. Models will style and dress themselves picking pieces from the collection that they feel good about. It will be their interpretation of our clothes which will be our interpretation of the incredible textile pieces that have been made for us in the past few weeks. Pushing the limits of intuition, creativity and research at every corner with every person who is collaborating with us on this effort.


    That's what "Radicalissimmo" is all about. And that's what we're going to bring to Paris.


    What's it going to look like?

    I have no idea.

    For that, we're just going to have wait and see how it plays out.



    And on June 26th, we'll know.




    .

  15. #735

    Default Matteo Carcelli: SS15 lookbook GBS at Eth0s Shanghai

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    CHECKING back in (finally) with Matteo Carcelli's beautiful shots from Paris of our SS2015 collection for Eth0s in Shanghai.
    Special thanks to Koos Faber and Nara Tse for helping out and wearing the pieces so nicely in and around the showroom.
    The photos were taken during our Paris presentations in June and October last year. Matteo Carcelli is a rising star in Paris
    fashion photography. His keen eye, superb framing and composition skills, and truly rare (and appreciated) knowledge of
    how a design should be shot and shown best are becoming recognized among the smart set in Paris image work. His work
    for Some/Things and Rick Owens should be well known to older SZ members, and his fans include Rick Owens, Sebastien
    Meunier at AD, and for sure, all of us at GBS. A big thank you to Matteo, Eth0s and everyone who made it happen including
    Fratelli Piacenza for the super 150's Emotions wool, Luigi Parisotto for the organic silk, linen and super 120's cotton fabrics,
    Ratti SpA in Como for the exclusive shirt silk print, Michelle Fournier for the incredible handmade vintage Italian silk patch-
    work in the first image, Giuseppe Rebesco for the beautiful handmade vintage recycled leather sneakers and shoes, and the
    entire staff at Cavarzere who just keep getting better and better. And of course, StyleZeitgeist for giving us the chance to
    show what we do, the way we like to. Unfiltered, and straight to you.

    More coming up.

    Best wishes, Geoffrey
























  16. #736

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    Good God your work is inspiring

  17. #737

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    Stunning Geoffrey, the colours. It's beautiful to see what can be done with the freedom you have to construct, exactly as you want.
    spinning glue back into horses. . .

  18. #738

    Default Why a touch of color is needed these days

    Dear LOVE and Pumpfish,

    Thank you very much for your kind comments. We do feel a little color, worked in the right ways is very important right now, last summer in Paris there was a sea of black in the Marais during men's week and it was not all good (if you get my drift). In fact, many of the longest running "blackest" spirits in the circuit were all agreeing it was getting time to move elsewhere a bit. This is also natural in life too. The best-dressed people know how to work with some color. This is especially true at a certain level of maturity, society, and taste. Now I am not talking about a Raf | Sander kaleidoscope of pink orange and cobalt blue all over your body, and we have and continue to do dark as much as anybody, and do it well, but especially for summer and especially if you live in sunny Italia or steamy Japan for example, it's key to really know a little something about your lighter weight fine fabrics, and how to use some color... and do it well with taste. In the very very deep northern lands, black alone may be fine, but down here in summer black alone simply doesn't cut it very well.

    It's an intellectual thing. And it's a cultural one as well. People see these head to toe "dark knights" walking around Venice in the middle of July or the Biennale week when the sun is hitting and cooking them (black absorbs all that light and all of its heat) at over 37 degrees centigrade or 95 Fahrenheit thinking they look great, and it's pretty sad because they don't. They stick out like a sore thumb. Fish out of water. And yes, tip everybody off that even if they spent some serious money on their stuff they are still culturally, ummm, shall we say discreetly... "gotta a little way to go." This is Italy, like food, rich or poor--it is not how much you spend, it is how well you eat that counts and gets respected. It appears anybody can have black "artisanal looking" clothes in their wardrobe these days (especially all over China and Shanghai now where Eth0s is), the truly advanced and enlightened have some other colors too. And as the black thing continues to grow in audience size, we need to keep in mind that the best dressers are always the ones who do not want to look like everyone else or be one to follow the pack, or mix with the crowd. We hate crowds. And we lead the packs, not follow them. Too much of a good thing is still too much. And right now there is too much black alone thinking and dressing out there. It doesn't have to be bright. Indeed one can learn to use navy, greys, beiges, olives and ecru, natural colors that can still be sombre, quiet and beautiful and yet more in harmony with the climate, temperature and nature around you at that time of the year in that part of the world where you are. We are after all, living in the hottest summer on record in the history of the world right now in 2015, right? So the SS15 collection is dark but also has a lot of play on new approaches with color, which we are continuing as well for SS2016 to help keep our clients- adequately well ahead of the pack...

    and on that note we are uploading something for you now...

    Thanks again LOVE and Pumpfish
    Cheers, Geoffrey & the Team

  19. #739
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Saw the new arrivals at Hotoveli yesterday - SO DAMN GOOD. And, I know we talk mostly menswear here, but the women's was astounding! Ladies, don't sleep on it and I hope Geoffrey can share more of the fall collection women's images.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  20. #740

    Default GBS at Hotoveli in New York

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    Thanks so much, Faust... Well very quickly, here are couple of graphic pieces from our AW2015 campaign that we can show
    SZ viewers right away. We are very excited to be back in New York and the U.S. market after many years. Hotoveli has the
    North American exclusive for our menswear this season and also many women's pieces that are also exclusive to the US &
    North America so of course, we would like to cordially invite all readers in the area to visit them and begin to try on and
    experience our work in person. Best wishes and thanks again, Geoffrey & the Team






    men's:









    women's:

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