(continued from my previous thread reply)
...For example, the "colored" buttons that are mentioned as "gratuitous" and
"detracting" in one of the thread replies on Hobo's 2006 PFJ04 hand dyed pure Varese
linen double-breasted jacket, are actually not colored at all...
IN FACT, they are uncolored- totally natural, hand cut, real mother-of-pearl (made for us in Padova, Italy), each one unique and beautifully formed by nature, fully bio-degradable, and financially about 10-11 times more valuable than typical plastic ones of the same size, making Hobo's already very special jacket an even better value-for-money. And they are not seen on any other designer label garment in the world...
Above: the very special buttons on Hobo's 2006 PFJ04 are actually not colored at all. They are uncolored- in their totally natural state, hand cut and made for us in Padova, Italy, in real mother-of-pearl, each one unique and beautifully formed by nature, fully bio-degradable with no dyes or chemical applications, and financially about 10-11 times more valuable than typical plastic ones, making Hobo's already very special jacket, even more special, and an even better value-for-money.
Maybe to some. But not to me. Or the owner of the piece. To someone who finds it "only detracts" from the design, they are probably simply uninformed, again, making design judgments without being able to physically see and understand the piece at all. Or they have a taste and knowledge level that we probably have no interest, nor capability, in catering to. And that's fine too...there is plenty of other stuff to wear and buy out there that conforms to that kind of thinking and look, and they are more than welcome to it. With only 11 handmade pieces of this jacket made for the entire world since 2006, the jacket, the buttons, and our work, are clearly not meant for everyone...
Snapshot of a collector's item: only 11 handmade pieces of this super limited edition jacket have been made for the entire world since July 2006. Hobo owns one of them, and its unique button story is one of the primary design features that makes it unlike any other jacket of its kind available in the world today.
IN PERSON, when someone sees the jacket on the wearer (in this case, Hobo), they will subtly notice that none of the buttons are the same and upon closer inspection, the buttons are of a uniquely cool and beautiful character, leading one to ask what kind of jacket is that? Who made it? And of course, what kind of person is wearing it? Clearly someone who is different. Who thinks apart. Who knows something more. Again, this is our customer. The smart one. The one who thinks, who knows, who does his research thoroughly, and then leads the way. Even when it comes to buttons.
Intelligent, knowledgable people who truly know clothing design and value, (our customer) know the difference. What other people think... "they like it, they don't like it"...doesn't matter to me. That's their issue. Their problem. My job is to deliver to my customer the very best that I know is possible, each and every time. And I know what is possible much more than the customer does. That's my job. 24/7 for 30 years. No watering down. No compromises. Simply put, my customer does something else for a living; and he or she is usually very good at it and knows it far better than me, that's how they can afford to buy my work. They do their job. I do mine. And beautiful things happen.
To maintain this standard, we cannot put out any design that hints at mediocrity or sameness. Again, our work cannot be for everybody. It is for the real purist. Not the fake ones trying to pass as real ones. Many of our best customers are not even the designer store shoppers, but the staff people, managers, and owners--professionals who see thousands of pieces of clothing a season from the world's "hottest" labels. For us, it is always a great honor to have our work selected by one of these experts for their own personal wardrobes, and we are thankful, and committed to making it worth their hard-earned money every time.
Images below: special real horn, leather and bone button designs from Parma
must be final finished with 2 different types of specific West German sandpaper,
by hand, one at a time, in our studio before they can be handsewn to the GJ04
Piacenza 1733 super cashmere and silk jacket in their exact and precise order
and position. ...
Each jacket will have 11 buttons and 12 working buttonholes applied requiring well over 3
hours of button and buttonhole operations work from preparation to completion per jacket.
The buttons themselves are each a work of art. From the amazing floral cut polished real
horn piece (image below: top button ) to the crusted "crostata" dish shaped 4-hole
button also in real dark horn (image below: bottom button)...
...to this one executed in real burnt bone (image below)...
...to (images below) the left sleeve cuff button pieces: 1st button in light horn
cut as a square with rounded corner, 2nd button in real leather worn down
by hand, and 3rd button in light horn crust cut in a saturn bowl shape.
Note also: the supersoft working real handstitched buttonhole sleeve cuffs lined
in Bemberg jacquard (Como) which can be rolled up like a shirt and require
about 2 and a half hours of expert work to craft, for each sleeve...
Even the number of holes for me is important, a special visual balance is achieved here with
the 4-2-4 relationship that looks randomly arrived at, but in actuality took quite a bit of very
careful thought, decision and work. Also, the angle of the holes and the stitches were
carefully worked out...
...and not repeated on the other side-- an assymetric, entirely different, button
story combination was specifically developed for the right sleeve (above).
Again, we design for a thinking customer, like a film by Kurosawa, Fellini, or Coppola,
we want our viewer to be constantly surprised the more he or she examines the work,
avoiding repetition, and any sameness, pushing individuality, and a unique personal
aspect across the work in every possible way that adds to its natural beauty, personal
vibe, and totally human story...
GJ04: hyper-quality. defined.
Only 6 pieces of the GJ04 hand dyed Piacenza 1773 super cashmere and silk
jacket are being made by hand this season for the entire world. Four pieces
are available at John Bull Private Labo shops in Japan, one exclusive piece
each, at Harajuku (Tokyo), Shinsaibashi (Osaka), Kyoto, and Okayama stores.
The two other pieces were made to special order for a top staff member at
John Bull Private Labo store in Harajuku, and Mr. Tomoyuki Furukawa, owner
and COO of the MinorityRev stores in Fukuoka Japan.
The superlux GJ04 collector's item jacket was cut from a fabric made by the oldest wool mill in the world that costs well over 120 euros a meter before even a single cut is made. With almost 2 meters required to build one piece, the jacket has well over 230 euros in wholesale external fabric cost and built-in value alone, without a single stitch. While we take our buttons very seriously, we take our fabrics perhaps even more so. Buttons and fabrics are a few of the many critical elements that go into our unique work at Cavarzere Venezia and the creation of some of the most exclusive hand made pieces of designer clothing in the world today. If there is still interest among the SZ membership after reviewing this material, I can try to prepare some more insights, images and overviews on fabric, and explore some of the other key elements and aspects of the work we are doing. Again, time permitting...let me know.
In any case, thank you all very much for reading.
I hope it was of some fun and interest for all.
Best wishes and thank you,
Geoffrey B. Small