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Thread: Geoffrey B. Small

  1. #1081

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    Guido Barbagelata’s razor sharp image of Juli in Paris on the runway of Saturday’s ‘wait’ presentation wearing the new extreme shoulder super-advanced handmade dark silhouette based upon the terrifying new “microburst” storm systems now being caused by unstoppable global warming. While the firm continued to push awareness of the realities of the world around us to the international fashion press and industry, it also pioneered a new return to dark concepts with a new shape and new advanced artisanal and sustatinable technologies. Principal developing design work on the stunning new tailored piece was performed by Nicholas Giannelli using Luigi.Parisotto’s new ultra-research cotton and ramie Russel stripe cloth with GBS hand dye technologies at Cavarzere Venezia in Italy. More coverage coming soon.



  2. #1082

    Default 'wait' by Dario Ruggiero now on IG

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    Pre-show rehearsal and backstage images of Diana Akimova in Fratelli Piacenza's new Mouline' super 130's
    incredibly lightweight summer wool handmade bomber jacket ensemble developed by Nicholas Giannelli and Laurine da Boville wearing the new super-shouldered handmade long coat in exquisitely textured superlux cotton woven entirely by hand on 18th century wooden handlooms at Badoere di Morgano by Tessitura La Colombina developed by Lois Dionisio- part of Dario Ruggiero’s beautiful photo essay of 'wait’ in Paris now up exclusively on our official instagram page here.



















    We also eagerly await the release
    here on SZ of Matthew Reeves editorial story, who also photographed the collection backstage before the show in Paris. More coverage and news on the record-breaking collection soon. Cheers, Geoffrey & the team



    photos this post © Dario Ruggiero, all rights reserved. www.darioruggiero.com
    Visit GBS on instagram https://www.instagram.com/geoffreybsmall


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  3. #1083

    Default 'wait' Paris show video by Kris Dionisio

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    Many thanks to Ahimsa, Faust and SZ for Matthew Reeves runway coverage on SZ-mag (see seasonal collection threads). 'wait' has been one of our most successful collections in Paris to date, setting new records for both press coverage and women's spring/summer season order bookings for a single collection. Against all odds in an industry with a Paris Fashion Week now totally dominated and rigged by LVMH, Kering and a slew of other financial groups and deal-players who seek to imitate them, a tiny truly independent, truly artisanal designer firm continues to express its art, produce and distribute its work to the best clients in the world, and grow at annual rate of 25-30 percent over the past 11 years with no outside financing. And the fact that this is also happening in women's as well men's collection work now is even more remarkable for an independent firm.


    And when I say "independent," I mean really independent. Just about every designer doing Paris runway nowadays is working under somebody else's thumb: somebody who owns their brand and name's production, distribution and financing--and in the end calls the shots, perhaps maybe allowing the "designer" the chance at least to take care of the "fluff"… that being their fashion shows and some aspects of image. But, when over 90 percent of a runway show has nothing to do with what is going to be produced and put in the stores or online--that says a lot about what is going on behind the hype. Unfortunately, all too many design and fashion observers and customers fall prey to this hype. And the hype is making far too many actors and "personalities" into perceived designers and artists nowadays at the expense of the few real practitioners who are still fighting for their existence, their work, and their access to the public consciousness at large.

    On that note, we are extremely grateful and pleased to be able to extend our warmest welcome to you in viewing 'wait' our 105th, and our most ambitious Paris collection presentation to date via the new video shot and produced by Kris Dionisio in Paris. "wait" is about this summer's all-time global warming milestones, the realization by humanity that we are beyond the point of no return regarding planetary climate change and its consequences, and the terrifying new "microburst" storm systems that are a direct result of this phenomena. The microburst storm's easily recognizable visual form resembles a nuclear bomb explosion and serves as the basis of a new overall shape and silhouette of the collection which we are experimenting with, developing, and proposing as part of a comprehensive effort to determine how clothing design needs to adapt and modify itself to protect and serve our women customers now and in the years ahead. We believe it was one of the most directional, commercially-smart and exclusive women's clothing collections during a historical Paris Fashion Week seemingly dominated by global corporate luxury fashion horse races and attempts for hegemony. And most importantly, the only one directly dealing with the stunning new realities of this rapidly changing world and environment of global warming going out of control.


    As always, with many thanks to everyone who has helped us to get this far.
    Best wishes,

    Geoffrey & the team




    https://vimeo.com/292677742
    Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 10-14-2018 at 11:31 PM.

  4. #1084

  5. #1085

    Default current works (1 of 3)

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    Thank you so much Ahimsa, Faust, Matthew Reeves and SZ-mag for the beautiful editorial piece from Paris. It's been a record season for our firm and our workrooms here at Cavarzere Venezia. The remarkable growth and demand for our works has reached almost one million euro at wholesale for a single season and has pushed our firm to expand to over 30 people working at Cavarzere- and reach unprecedented levels of artisanal creation and organizational development that we believe is setting a new model for the industry. With very little time to devote to any posting online over the past few months, we briefly share a few images of some pieces that have been a part of this record extreme handmade technology and artisanal production season. With many thanks to everyone who have helped us to get this far. Geoffrey & the team







    Only 3 pieces in the world were made of this handmade GRC04 double-breasted
    deep central back pleat button closure long coat w/handmade buttonholes & buttons
    in hand dyed L. Parisotto "Grenoble" linen & virgin wool fat diagonal twill weave fabric.
    Exclusively now at Liberte in Kobe, Japan.












    The GRS08 supershirt in hand-dyed pure 'raso' satin silk exclusively printed for us in Como, the world's leading fine silk producing region. One of 26 exquisite pieces cut, created and dyed one-at-a-time each for Darklands in Berlin, Eth0s in Shanghai, Gullam in Daikanyama, Hues in Fukuoka, Leisure Center in Vancouver, L’Eclaireur Boissy in Paris, Persuade in Bilbao, and Provogue in Nagoya.













    GRJ07 handmade jacket in Luigi Parisotto 'India' thick structured weave winter linen with unique hand built buttoned center-back vent. One of 27 pieces made for the world this season now at Atelier NY, Chapter 1 Seoul, Darklands Berlin, Eth0s Shanghai, Gullam Daikanyama, Ink Hong Kong, Leisure Center Vancouver, Liberte Kobe, Looq Zurich, Secret Service Taipei. Images of Davide Gabriele from the feature story shooting for FuckingYoung! magazine in September.




























    Hand-built Lanificio Moessmer 'lanacotta' boiled Tyrolean wool GRC05 double-breasted coat with spectacular lining story by E. Ghiringhelli and Tessitura Mauri, one of 29 individually made pieces for the world: Calculus Victoria, Carrefour Jiyujaoka, Darklands Berlins, Hostem Archive London, Hues Fukuoka, JS Luxe Tokyo & Osaka, Liberte Kobe, Provogue Nagoya, Ripe Ark Utsunomiya, Secret Service Taipei, T.O. Kochi.













    Detail of the supersoft GRC10 Fratelli Piacenza 1733 pure virgin herringbone fancy coating wool
    coat, one of 25 individually made pieces for the world: Arts & Science in Aoyama, Cathedral in
    Osaka and Ginza, Darklands in Berlin, Eth0s in Shanghai, Hues in Fukuoka, JS Luxe in Tokyo
    and Osaka, Looq in Zurich, Persuade in Bilbao, RipeArk in Utsunomiya.
















    The incredible jacquard weave lining by Ezio Ghiringhelli on the GRJ14 relaxed blouson jacket in Luigi Parisotto's winter cotton and wool 'bondone' fabric created only for us: Arts & Science Aoyama, Cathedral Osaka & Ginza, Chapter 1 Seoul, Eth0s Shanghai, Hostem Archive London, Hues Fukuoka, Looq Zurich, Persuade Bilbao, RipeArk Utsunomiya, Souterrain Roppongi.
























    Closups of collars- the handmade super 120s double-twist Luigi Parisotto luxury cotton shirting GRS11 (8 pieces in the world: Arts & Science, Eth0s, Leisure Center) and GRS02 supershirts (22 pieces made for the world: Atelier NY, Cathedral, Darklands, Eth0s, Leisure Center), both feature rounded neckline concepts, new proportions and beautiful details.















    The stunning GRS04 3-in-one detachable collar pure Como silk print handmade supershirt comes
    with 2 separate distinct collar design pieces in dark and light for unprecedented versatility and wear
    options. (only six pieces made for the world: Eth0s, Leisure Center).





    (to be continued-page 1 of 3. more images posting…)

  6. #1086

    Default current works (2 of 3)

    (continued from above)











    GRJ18 & GRP19 extreme advanced handmade suit design with first-in-the-world assymetric single back-vent (technically “impossible” not on seam position) in Fratelli Piacenza 1733’s all new “Sublime” Super 140’s pure wool luxury worsted suiting fabric created at Pollone, Biella. Just 2 made for the world exclusively for Eth0s Shanghai.









    GRJ16 & GRP15 extreme advanced handmade suit design with narrow jacket construction side-vented trouser in cutting-edge windowpane “Sublime” Super 140’s pure wool luxury worsted suiting fabric created at Pollone, Biella by Fratelli Piacenza 1733, the world’s oldest wool mill still in operation. 5 suits in the world. Exclusively for Eth0s Shanghai. Leisure Center Vancouver, Gullam Daikanyama.











    A glimpse inside the superlux pure 3-ply Fratelli Piacenza Alashan Cashmere GRC08 long coat and its incredible hand dyed pure Como silk lining story. It feels even better than it looks. 8 made for the world: At Chapter 1 in Seoul, Eth0s in Shanghai, Hostem Archive in London, and Souterrain in Roppongi.










    Detail view of the GRK02 handmade button-front patchwork hooded 8-button sweater in hand dyed pure extrafine merino wool with Luigi
    Parisotto's "Grenoble" linen & virgin wool fat twill detail pieces and handmade buttonholes and buttons. Only at Arts & Science Aoyama,
    Carrefour Jiyugaoka, Darklands Berlin, Ink Hong Kong, Leisure Center Vancouver, Liberte Kobe, Persuade Bilbao, Provogue Nagoya,
    RipeArk Utsunomiya, Secret Service Taipei.














    Last in the world: the super limited edition Piacenza Saxony Emotions Super 150’s superfine wool ETJ08 jacket design is one of only 2 pieces made by hand this year, and due to fabric production availability--very possibly the last of its kind to be made. Created exclusively for Hues in Fukuoka Japan and individually hand dyed in our studios with our extreme handwork artistic technique code-named “accident dye” which took over 2 days to reach the precise final mottled patina color and effect for each piece.


























    While some of our designer colleagues are now suddenly “discovering” historical tailoring pieces as inspiration
    for their “next” collection, we have been developing, showing and creating them already for our clients now for
    over a decade. Example: the exquisite GRWS01 1800’s pleated neckline prairie shirt that combines all its bodice
    volume right up into the neckline, stunningly and flawlessly executed by hand in pure Como silk raso satin floral
    print made only for us, hand dyed with english tea leaves and large real mother of pearl buttons by Fontana
    that will blow your mind when you see and touch them up close. 9 pieces made for the world at Arts & Science,
    Darklands, Ink, and Leisure Center.












    Handmade reproduction 1890's side-saddle riding skirt (GRWG03) in hand washed Biella Super 120’s Tasmanian extrafine wool, one in the world made for Arts & Science in Aoyoma. GRWJ06 handmade jacket in hand dyed alpaca and merino diagonal twill stripe entirely woven by hand on 18th century wooden handlooms at Badoere di Morgano by Tessitura La Colombina. 4 pieces each individually cut, constructed and dyed by hand for Arts & Science, Eth0s Shanghai, JS Luxe Tokyo & Osaka, Persuade Bilbao.











    Images of visit this month by Claudio & Cinzia Fontana to the GBS Via Spalato Sartoria Workrooms at Cavarzere Venezia celebrating over twelve years of collaboration on our Paris collections and development of the new autumn/winter 2019 collection buttons to be presented in January. Like our own firm, the Fontana 'botonificio' unquestionably stands alone in the industry, both in creativity and material excellence, as the best button maker in the world today. Below a selection of the incredible buttons in real horn and mother-of-pearl created by Fontana and used in our production of the AW2018 production order delivery for Eth0s in Shanghai...














    (to be continued- page 2 of 3. more images posting…)

  7. #1087

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    (continued from above)











    Hand dyed LuigiParisotto linen and cashmere GRWC04 handmade early 1900's long double-breasted riding coat reproduction with detachable cape handmade buttonholes and buttons. One of 3 in the world (for Arts & Science in Aoyama, Chapter One in Seoul).









    GRZ04 hand made dress mountain shoe by G. Rebesco for GBS in luxurious vegetable tanned Toscano leather.
    One of only 7 pairs created in the entire world for Liberte in Kobe and Carrefour in Jiyugaoka Tokyo.














    Extreme handmade technology GRWC08 patchwork kimono using all handwoven Tessitura La Colombina alpaca & merino handweave fabrics and Luigi Parisotto cotton lining stories. Each piece requires about 105 working hours to build. 12 pieces made for the world at Arts & Science, Atelier NY, Chapter One in Seoul, Eth0s in Shanghai, Ink in Hong Kong, JS Luxe in Tokyo & Osaka, Leisure in Vancouver, Hostem Archive in London.
























    The GRP18 super trouser features extreme handwork technology to the max: handcut patchwork design in a spectacular array of hand dyed Luigi Parisotto organic cotton weave designs and handmade jacket-style side vents- over 70 hours of master expert work to make a single pair. Only 8 in the world. At Calculus Victoria, Darklands Berlin, and Ink Hong Kong




    (to be continued- more images posting…)

  8. #1088

    Default current works (3 of 3)

    (continued from above)










    Extreme handmade GBS archive "Examen Reginae" and "Escape" collection pieces
    (ESWC04, ESWJ07, ESWG03, ESWS02) in superlux hand woven Tessitura La Colombina
    alpaca, merino & cashmere yarn fabrics with pure Como silk blouse and linings. Created
    exclusively in the world this season for Journal Standard's Kyoto Mikuracho
    traditional Japanese wooden house store with coffee & cake shop in Kyoto Japan..
















    Workroom views of the handmade GRJ05 fully-reversible 2-in-1 design safari hunting jacket
    in hand dyed "Gattopardo" wool, linen & cotton exterior fabric woven by Luigi Parisotto combined with extrafine
    Biella Super 120's pure Tasmanian wool interior cloth. 8 pieces made for the world only at Darklands in Berlin
    and Cathedral in Osaka and Ginza..











    The beautiful GRC07 double-breasted topcoat in Fratelli Piacenza 1733's superb black babycamel hair coating cloth with fancy lining story by E.Ghiringhelli (Varese) and Tessitura Mauri (Como) offers its owner a guarantee of timeless elegance for years to come. One of only ten pieces made for the world. Cathedral in Osaka & Ginza, Darklands in Berlin, L’Eclaireur Boissy in Paris, Provogue in Nagoya, and Eth0s in Shanghai.








    Giuseppe Rebesco's stunning reproduction GBS GRZ02 handmade early 20th century "Calciatore" Italian footballer
    soccer shoe design in pure vegetable tanned Toscana leather. One of only 4 pairs of its kind created in the entire world
    exclusively for Cathedral in Osaka and Ginza























    FROM the signing of the pieces, to the type of retailer you will find our work in, to the extreme hand-making and creation technologies we use day and night to build the most labor- and time-intensive designer clothes collection on the market today, everything we do is based upon bringing the value of the intelligent human being back into the clothing experience in a very big and bold way. Continuous record investments in personnel, equipment, training & development, and workroom space improvements and capacities have brought the firm now to over 30 employees (a 30 percent increase over 2017 staff size), and dealer order production levels reaching new records: 1,515 GBS handmade pieces for spring/summer 2018 deliveries, and 1,606 pieces for autumn/winter 2018 deliveries, which are now being completed right up until year-end. This year, not including the four Paris prototype collections which are also created in-house by the same people- over 3,100 individually produced GBS pieces (with an average requirement of some fifty total hours of work to complete each one), have been produced and delivered from our workrooms at Cavarzere Venezia, marking an incredible 27 percent increase over 2017. As a result of this super-human effort and performance, our entire organization has been stretched to the limit-- and due to the continuous growing worldwide demand for our collection pieces, and the extreme amounts of unique artisanal and specialized artistic work and materials required to create each one- we inform SZ readers currently, that our firm is being forced to revise its current distribution situation, and to consider a significant reduction in the number of dealers who will be allowed to purchase and distribute Geoffrey B. Small in the upcoming 2019-2020 seasons.
    Midnight in the main Sartoria workroom at Via Spalato in Cavarzere Venezia,
    where this year over 3,000 hand built GBS production pieces for the world and no less than four
    cutting-edge Paris Prototype collections involving over four hundred all-new research
    design pieces were created and made by the GBS Sartoria team.










    IN A DAY when DJ's, TV actresses and celebrities pose as designers, and plasticized t-shirts and hoodies made in slavery mass-production factories are being passed as luxury clothing to a generation of consumers who know nothing better than what their corporate-fashion-sponsored screens want them to know-- it remains more than ever, our position that our extreme levels of quality, hand made technology, and artistic design must never be compromised. So, while we are making every effort in both human and economic resources to build our creative capacities, there is a limit to those capacities, and we will be required to make some difficult choices and decisions as a result-- regarding how many dealers, and which dealers, we will be able to serve in the current seasons ahead. The worldwide growth in demand for our work as well as the growing uncertainties regarding geo-political and global trade issues, also comes with a growth in the levels of service, selection, knowledge, commitment and investment required on the part of each and every dealer in our network not just to uphold, but rather, to increase the standards of service, image, and operational excellence required to cultivate and continue to earn the loyalty and continuing patronage of the most discerning and highest-value conscious clientele in the business today. These requirements, and how we feel they are being met by each one of our current dealers are being reviewed across our entire dealership network and will form the basis of our distribution decisions for the current seasons ahead. I truly hope some of you might understand why I believe the thirty persons with whom I have the honor and privilege to work with, make up perhaps the greatest tailoring and handmade design operation in the world today, and why more than ever, their work and their unique value, needs to be respected, appreciated and handled, accordingly. With many thanks to each member of our team, and each of the clients and customers around the world who have continued to support our work and our efforts in this tremendous year of growth and challenge... I thank you from my heart, and look forward to working even harder in the year ahead on building the dream of continuing to elevate the art and the science of making clothes with human hands and human minds.


    Best wishes,


    Geoffrey

  9. #1089

    Default Like no other label in the world




    Fighting the battle for truth in ‘sustainable’ and ethical design


    FOR DECADES we have been building a new model for the design and clothing industry based upon the human being, ethical production and environ-mental sustainability and safety. But today, the word 'sustainable' in fashion and textiles is becoming more than just a lie or a coverup. When we hear the word 'sustainable fashion' now and who is using it to describe their practices, we are appalled by their lies, and terrified at their ability to continue to sell and operate by wreaking destruction and misery on the entire world's population at all levels. More than ever, we view our competitive role in the marketplace as one for survival, both in economic and in biological terms. At the end of 2018, our goal to eliminate every molecule of plastic petrochemical material from our clothing came ever closer to reality. After a long and challenging discourse, we were able to convince and develop perhaps the first non-polyester all-natural yarn garment label to be used in the entire designer market today with the leading label-producer for the global luxury industry, Mion Spa in the Euganean hill town of Torreglia Italy. The pure silk beautifully crafted label currently costs our firm about 25 times more than its polyester counterpart, but feels so superior against the skin and continues the supreme mission to try to begin to reverse the insidious microfibre-plastic contamination of the entire world's sea and drinking water by the garment & textile industry that continues to be greenwashed and hushed over by everyone in the game. It is also one of the most beautiful labels seen in ages. And also this year, with the growth of our organization and the incredibly brilliant and dedicated people who are joining it… the firm is now working to also eliminate the last remaining commercial chemical composition dyes from its hand dyeing operations under the research efforts of David Wild, a graduate of Cornell University's design program with special emphasis in sustainable textiles, to develop fully natural compound dye technologies for the firm's cutting-edge handmade clothes production and design. The first techniques using wood, nuts, berry, metal and mud-based recipes and compounds will be introduced to the world press and buyers in Paris, along with the stunning new label next week...




  10. #1090

    Default

    Dear Geoffrey, I always enjoy reading your contributions and updates. It's very therapeutic! I'm reminded that there are people at the very top of their endeavours who genuinely care for the wellbeing of this beautiful Planet. I have noticed over the last year a noticeable rise in awareness for micro plastic contamination and a renewed interest in ethical consumer choices. What makes me worried is the large backlash from corporations (lobbying power) that use poverty as a pretext to renew harmful practises (like in America with fossil fuels).

  11. #1091

    Default collaboration of excellence introducing Piacenza super 130's mouliné at L'Eclaireur

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    Dear Mojo1990, thanks very much for your comment. We are hurriedly packing for Paris now and always appreciate your support. We are not at the top yet in terms of size, press coverage/recognition or money... but we are building with passion and the more the word gets out the more we will continue to build a new model for the industry, one customer-one piece at a time. And on that note, continuing a collaboration for total excellence... Fratelli Piacenza 1733’s all-new Super 130’s ”Mouliné” 230 gram pure virgin wool natural stretch ultra-lux suiting cloth launches for the first-time-in-the-world this week in Paris with the new super advanced design 2-in-1 convertible-lapel extreme handmade GBS OYJ23 supersuit. Part of the first deliveries of the spring/summer 2019 “Wait” and “On your mark” collections arriving now exclusively at L’Eclaireur Boissy d’Anglas in Paris.







    More deliveries coming after Paris worldwide.

    A word about our next collection presentation coming up this Saturday night posting soon.

    With many thanks to everyone.

    Best wishes,
    Geoffrey & the team


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