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Thread: Geoffrey B. Small

  1. #1101

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    Dear Geoffrey and the team! Thank you so much for sharing your personal stories, observations and insights on such sorrowful occasion. It is deeply touching to read words personal and honest while all you can see around is mostly generic condolences.

    Sending you all the best energies and wishes!

  2. #1102

    Default new works: SS2019 first deliveries

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    THANK you so much Treves and unwashed for your comments and for reading, very appreciated...


    Now we'd like to move on to some current new works from the "On your mark" and "wait" collections that are continuing to take "artisanal" to an entirely new level. So much so in fact, that we have had to recently decline a major fashion media outlet story that wished to lump our work all together with a myriad of "other artisan designers" that for us, was simply unacceptable. There are an awful lot of imposters out there right now, imitating things that we pioneered a decade ago and taking credit for it in the mass media, which is suddenly grabbing at straws now that their corporate streetwear bullshit is starting to be seen for what it truly is... and their ad budgets are going down the toilet. And frankly, it pisses me off.


    Unlike Karl Lagerfeld, GBS is a fundamentalist design firm. The designers run the company and run the business at every angle and every detail. And nobody is doing what we are doing right now- not organizationally, creatively or technically, period. Whether or not the mainstream fashion media ever wakes up, gets off their asses and figures that out or not, we don't care. In today's crazier and crazier IG, What'sapp, WeChat and whatever comes next internet-direct world, we don't need them anymore. What counts is product, brain, work and soul. And the best people in the world working together to make it all happen. And we've got them, the real artisans and designers now who are building up to go right at Chanel, Hermes, Gucci and anybody else who claims they are making things by hand or in an "artisanal" or "luxury" manner. On that note, some exciting examples of the latest production work coming out of the amazing GBS Sartoria workrooms at Cavarzere Venezia in Italy, and arriving at our worldwide dealers as described in the captions, please contact them to view or reserve (we cannot reply adequately to PM's)...
















    new ultra-advanced silhouette extended shoulder double-breasted Varese superlight handkerchief linen
    OYJ02 early 1980's Italian reproduction jacket with our own completely hand-built shoulder pad construction
    now arriving at Hostem Archive in London and Darklands in Berlin. Coming soon to Eth0s in Shanghai,
    Dongliang in Beijing and Secret Service in Taipei.





















    ultra-advanced relaxed wide leg antique french navy sailor's reproduction trouser in hand dyed Varese
    linen and cotton oxford weave cloth now arriving at Darklands in Berlin.














    Spectacular early 1950's handmade reproduction race-car driver shoe cut and made by hand at San Zenone
    di Ezzelini in vegetable-tanned black Toscana leathers by Giuseppe Rebesco exclusively for GBS "On your mark"
    SS2019 collection, for sure one more in a long line of advanced GBS/G.Rebesco shoe designs
    that will be copied by all the others. Coming soon to Darklands 5.0 (Berlin).
















    Handmade silk supershirt in pure Como silk GBS Botticelli exclusive print raso satin (OYS29)
    now arriving at L'Eclaireur Boissy d'Anglas store (Paris), Darklands 5.0 (Berlin), Chapter 1 (Seoul).
    Coming soon to Atelier (New York), Dongliang (Beijing), Hues (Fukuoka),
    Gullam (Daikanyama), and Leisure Center (Vancouver).


















    The OYS19 silk supershirt in pure Como raso satin silk floral print with extreme accident hand-dye
    technique performed individually in our workrooms now arriving at L'Eclaireur Boissy
    d'Anglas (Paris), Hostem Archive (London), Darklands 5.0 (Berlin). Coming soon to Arts & Science (Aoyama) Atelier (New York),
    Gullam (Daikanyama), Liberte (Kobe).




























    The new “On your mark” OYJ03 and OYP03 spring/summer 2019 Paris collection handmade suit in
    Luigi Parisotto’s crisp and ultra-cool ramie & cotton “Zola” herringbone pinstripe weave suiting cloth
    exclusive for GBS, features our classic early 1910’s silhouette with advanced vertical breast pocket
    styling along with a myriad of extreme handmade technology details and superb value for money.
    Arriving now at L’Eclaireur Boissy d’Anglas (Paris), Darklands (Berlin). Coming soon to Ink (Hong Kong),
    Eth0s (Shanghai), Atelier (New York), Provogue (Nagoya), Liberte (Kobe), Cathedral (Osaka & Ginza),
    Gullam (Daikanyama), Secret Service (Taipei)






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  3. #1103

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    "wait" SS2019 collection relaxed-living elegance OYWJ22 handmade belted shawl collar leisure design jacket in Luigi Parisotto's
    amazing new linen & wool complex weave glen plaid with stunning design corozo-nut buttons by Claudio & Cinzia Fontana created
    only for us, and L. Parisotto super 120's "doppio-ritorto" double-twist luxury cotton & silk shawl collar handmade shirt. Now arriving at
    L'Eclaireur Boissy d'Anglas (paris), Chapter 1 (seoul), Journal Standard Luxe (tokyo & osaka). Coming soon to Eth0s (shanghai),
    Dongliang (beijing), Arts & Science (aoyama), and Leisure Center (vancouver). photo of Adja in Paris by Guido Barbagelata.


























    "Artisanal" taken to another level. The new super limited edition OYJ11 extreme handmade architectural
    jacket built in our world-famous Cavarzere workrooms using entirely hand woven super soft luxury cotton yarn
    fabric created exclusively for us on 18th wooden hand looms by the late Giuseppe "Pino" Colombo and the
    Colombo family at Tessitura La Colombina in Badoere di Morgano. Exclusively in all of Europe at
    Hostem Archive in London (now arriving). Coming soon to Eth0s (shanghai), Atelier (new york),
    Hues (fukuoka), Carrefour (jiyugaoka), and Leisure Center (vancouver).


























    Special version of the superlux "On your mark" OYJhandmade hooded blouson in hand dyed L. Parisotto advanced
    weave linen & wool plaid check with special linen & cotton lining and spectacular geometric corozo-nut design buttons
    by Fontana. Only 3 pieces made in the world exclusively at Hostem Archive in London.



















    "On your mark" advanced extreme shoulder OYC02 early 1980's Italian-design raglan sleeve duster coat in iridescent weave Luigi Parisotto superfine luxury cotton high-density poplin cloth with reversible top-collar handstitched buttonhole detailing, and ultra-clean invisible hand constructed fly-front closure. Now arriving at Hostem Archive (london), Journal Standard Luxe (tokyo & osaka). Coming soon to Eth0s (shanghai) and Ripe Ark (utsunomiya).
























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  4. #1104

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    The super relaxed three-piece OYT01set adjustable leisure suit jacket, shirt and trouser combination in Luigi Parisotto ultralight super 120's luxury stripe cotton created only for us hand dyed in our workrooms. Now arriving at Hostem Archive (london), Darklands (berlin). Coming soon to Zovin (shenzhen), Arts & Science (aoyama), Eth0s (shanghai), Atelier (new york), Gullam (daikanyama), Hues (fukuoka), Leisure Center (vancouver), Secret Service (taipei).



















    Giuseppe Rebesco's formidable handmade GBS bumper shoe trainer in luxurious Vicentina calfskin uppers and linings with vulcanized black rubber soles designed to last a decade. Just 13 pair being made for the entire world, coming soon to Darklands (berlin)
    and Eth0s (shanghai).



















    Exquisite pure Como silk blouses in exclusive black angel and hand dyed 16th century Italian Veneto drawing prints only
    2 pieces of each made in the world. Now arriving exclusively at Atelier (new york).



















    Antique19th century French tailored pullover prairie ruffle collar blouse (OYWS04) in hand dyed exclusive Botticelli floral print pure Como silk raso satin fabric created only for us. Now arriving at Atelier (new york), Darklands (berlin),
    Journal Standard Luxe (tokyo & osaka). Coming soon to Zovin (shenzhen), Arts & Science (aoyama), Dongliang (beijing).



















    White angel exclusive print Como pure silk raso satin fly-front belted shirt dress and classic narrow-shouldered 19th century cutaway Varese hand dyed linen jacket created only for Atelier (new york) and now arriving.

































    Super elegant Botticelli exclusive print Como pure silk raso satin camisole column dress and signature GBS classic handmade narrow-shouldered 19th century cutaway Varese hand dyed handkerchief linen jacket. Just two pieces of each created in the world this season now arriving exclusively at Atelier (new york).


























    New ultra-advanced silhouette extreme hand-built shoulder construction peak-lapel women's jacket in Varese hand dyed handkerchief linen with our exclusive in-house hand-made shoulder pads, new special embroidery pure silk bozzolo milano thread stitch design work, massive handworked mother-of-pearl buttons, and Tessitura Mauri's beautiful viscose and cotton striped lining story. Now arriving at L'Eclaireur Boissy d'Anglas in Paris and Chapter 1 in Seoul. Coming soon to Dongliang (beijing), Secret Service (taipei),
    and Leisure Center (vancouver).













    As stated above, please contact dealers listed to view or reserve (we cannot reply adequately to PM's).


    Thank you as always for reading and supporting.


    Best wishes,


    Geoffrey & the team




    P.S. Coming up next: the Paris women's AW2019-20 collections fashion week is starting now…
    a word or two on what we are going to be doing there.







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  5. #1105

    Default our message in Paris








    A word on what we are going to do this Saturday night in Paris.



    SINCE 1979, we have been steadfastly building a new model for the design and clothing industry based upon the human being, ethical production and environmental sustainability and safety. Like many other concepts we have pioneered since then, our ideas have been watched by the industry and then "knocked-off"- copied and lifted in a manner that conveniently suits selfish short-term exploitative interests and always fails to adhere to the true underlying principles and intentions of our original innovations. Today, the word 'sustainable' in fashion and textiles is becoming more than just a lie or a coverup. It is becoming a criminal assault on all of humanity's existence, survival and dignity. While we have promoted the idea of sustainability and adhered to its principles with all of our ability and actions long before the rest of the fashion "pack", today we no longer wish to use the word to describe what we are doing. The word itself has been stolen, distorted, and poisoned and is being used by the very worst of companies, designers and practitioners. When we hear the word 'sustainable fashion' now and who is using it to describe their practices, it makes us sick, literally.


    -When multinational corporate brands who have built their empires on mountains of contamination, waste, slavery and carbon emissions that they have created now pass themselves off in the press and become applauded and supported as being ethical and sustainable...


    -When the Paris system fashion establishment suddenly tries to do the same after ignoring and banning the industry's leading ethical and sustainability designer firm from its official fashion show calendars for over a decade and a half…


    -And when an explosion of individual designers, celebrities and media suddenly label themselves as being ethical and sustainable pioneers with no intention to really practice even the shallowest principles or methods, but rather to profit from humanity's concern and self-promote their own interests in a quick and easy manner…





    It is time to say something about it.



    ON Saturday night March 2nd 2019, we will present our 107th Paris collection to date entitled "I am not sustainable" as a direct protest and a reaction against the false and immoral use of the word and its meanings by the majority of the fashion and textile industries today--from one of the leading pioneers and true practitioners of the concept. While we will continue to advance and adhere to the work and commitment of our practices, we will not use the word that so many other liars have suddenly and brazenly stolen to describe theirs. "I am not sustainable" will present both a controversial and emotional runway statement as well as raise a fundamental question about humanity itself, and whether our species truly has what it takes to avoid creating its own extinction within this century.


    In the meantime, we will remain more true to our commitment and our goals than ever, and cordially invite you to join us in this important protest and statement as we present our most challenging and innovative Paris collection to date. To do so, we have reserved a limited number of spaces for SZ people so if you are in Paris and would like join the presentation we kindly ask that you rsvp immediately to Mr. Lionel Cisinski to secure your place to see the show.


    RSVP: Mr. Lionel Cisinski at fashiontherapy@free.fr


    Thank you very much as always for reading, understanding and supporting.


    Best wishes,




    Geoffrey



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  6. #1106

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    THE actress Tatiana Anisimova leading off last night's controversial GBS's Paris show "i am not sustainable" wearing our signature pure cashmere classic 19th century cutaway outfit from her stunning performance in the "the onion." In a riveting presentation that marked a radical protest against fashion industry greenwashing,
    models hurled the phrase "i am not sustainable' to the audience and the cameras as a rejection of any further use of the word by the designer and the firm that has pioneered the concept and the movement for almost 4 decades. photo Guido Barbagelata. More coming up soon. Geoffrey & the team






  7. #1107

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    Video by Kris Dionisio with many thanks to everyone who helped to make it happen...















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  8. #1108

    Default Catherine Faux's backstage images of "i am not sustainable"

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    WHILE mainstream fashion media systematically ignores or avoids many of our controversial anti-corporate Paris presentations, our shows are often honored by the presence of some of the metier's most intelligent and noted photographers and video artists, whose work we respect, admire and welcome as part of our family and our movement including Matteo Carcelli, Guido Barbagelata, Dario Ruggiero, Elizabeth Creseveur, Toru Kitahara and Matthew Reeves among many others. Some are young, brilliant and rising and some are legendary masters. Last Saturday's "i am not sustainable" was no exception. For the first time we were honored by the presence of the veteran french photographer Catherine Faux during our backstage before the show moments before it began. Madame Faux has a long career shooting for the news agency SIPA, Liberation, Elle, Hachette, UNESCO and free-lance and is famous in France for her iconic portraits of people in the film, music and art worlds including Wim Wenders, The Clash, Werner Fassbinder, Serge Gainsbourg, Marcello Mastroianni, Dennis Hopper, Gerard Depardieu, Jane Birkin, Zhang Yimou and Gong Li. Quietly working backstage, she caught an unerringly human and beautiful side of some the amazing people whom we had the pleasure and the privilege to work with that evening before they were all about to execute one of the most radical, daring and powerful performances of the entire AW2019 fashion season. A remarkably refreshing alternative to the typical "fashion-look-only" backstage photography so commonly running in the media these days. With her permission, we are very pleased to share some of the artist's images here on our thread at Stylezeitgeist. With many thanks, Geoffrey & the team










    Anastasija and Lera







    Paul Bradley, David Wild & Brandon Leung







    Nadine and Laurine







    Sara and Lexie







    Marienne







    with Sasha Popruga in front of the video cameras of Luca Lazzari and Showbit







    Chloe & Adja








    Marienne







    Margo







    Marienne

    (all images copyright & courtesy of Catherine Faux)




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  9. #1109

  10. #1110

    Default new story on 'i am not sustainable' breaking in Italy

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    WE thank SZ and Matthew Reeves for the superb editorial piece posted both above and at SZ-mag.com. No doubt, both Reeves and SZ are respectively, continuing to show a level excellence in the design and fashion media world now that more and more is standing alone, apart, and miles above the entire industry. And the fact that SZ founder Eugene Rabkin's op-ed and editorial review pieces are being published more and more by mainstream outlets from BoF to hypebeast, is clear evidence that a change is in the air and that finally, some sanity and some real design work and people are getting talked about by people who actually know what they are taliking about--as the multinational corporate streetwear and fake luxury boom cycle begins (thanks to unavoidable geopolitical and economic forces going down in the world today) to go into the bust cycle, where we all know, it belongs.

    But we are not alone here on SZ. There are other revolutions in the fashion media now taking place. Like Italy, where (I have been informed by a well-informed long-time media-industry pro) a once almighty force like Conde Nast Italia (publishers of Vogue Italia, L'Uomo Vogue, and others) boasted over a hundred full-time contract iItalian employees on its payrolls has now slashed and burned itself down to around twenty. You can blame social media and IG for this as they all do, but I frankly blame management and top editorial people, for ignoring the new, the creative and the rising independent industry, and the large corporate groups who are now leaving them in droves as advertisers.

    At the same time hard core working journalists in Italy are coming out more and more against the corruption, hypocrisy and outright deception and lying being practiced by both the global luxury and fast fashion industry. An investigative documentary shown last year in December on Italian RAI 3 network's "REPORT" continued to show the massive lie and poison our industry continues to spit out and more than ever, and how the media is completely tied up in it. The fact that it came out and was broadcast from Milan, virtually the heart of the global luxury production system is very important, and indicates the beginnings of a paradigm shift in what the consumer is starting to be made aware of...


    http://www.rai.it/programmi/report/i...c096b4d5c.html



    More recently, as we presented our controversial women's Paris collection and presentation "i am not sustainable" fully rejecting the abuse and hijacking of the word by many of the industry's worst violators of the concept, a young journalist from Milan's Basiclymag.com has just put out the first article and review on us and the Paris show to come out in Italy in many years. The fact that this story is now breaking in the Italian media at the independent level is significant. Like it or not, Italy still runs this industry. More than 85 percent of all major designer and luxury brands no matter what city or country they are based in around the world, is producing or should I say delegating the management of the production of their products with Italian companies. If you watch the documentary or have read earlier thread posts here, you will know that far too much of Italian production has been subbed out to poorer lower wage countries… but Italian corporations still run it all. And as the old corrupt media guard of corporate sycophant editors who all looked the other way at this practice which lined their own pockets, now get their pink slips and start to try to figure out how they will survive now as freelancers, a new generation of journalists with a new view of the state of the world as well as fashion, now have an opportunity to take the stage and get a new message out. A message that is more truthful and relevant to what we are all facing.


    Giulia Massarenti did not come from nowhere, she worked for years at Conde Nast in Spain, Japan and London, and then the eyeglass colossus Safilo Spa in PR and communications in Madrid handling the group's brands from Dior, Fendi, Marc Jacobs, TommyHilfiger, Jimmy Choo, Elie Saab, Max Mara, to Max & Co., before starting to write pieces for Basicly in Milan. We are pleased to provide a link to her recent story (which we believe to be a pivotal one because it is coming from a new Italian media voice) here for SZ readers now breaking out in Italy with english translation as well as the movement continues to grow…


    https://basiclymag.com/2019/03/07/pf...-b-small-show/





    photo of Nadine at the show in Paris by Giulia Mantovani from the story in Basicly (click on the photo to see story)



    With many thanks to everyone as always,


    Geoffrey & the team



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  11. #1111

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    Hi Geoffrey,
    My brother recently gifted me his GBS jacket, it is my first, though I have admired your clothes for a long time
    It is made in Italy, but has a detail I’ve seen now and again on your clothing

    I was wondering if you wouldn’t mind elaborating on (if there is any beyond aesthetic) intentionality behind the gathered stitches you often do in the tags of garments.

    Best

  12. #1112

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    Quote Originally Posted by supercilious View Post
    Hi Geoffrey,
    My brother recently gifted me his GBS jacket, it is my first, though I have admired your clothes for a long time
    It is made in Italy, but has a detail I’ve seen now and again on your clothing

    I was wondering if you wouldn’t mind elaborating on (if there is any beyond aesthetic) intentionality behind the gathered stitches you often do in the tags of garments.

    Best

    Dear supercilious,

    Thank you for your post and question, and thank you to your brother who gifted you his GBS. We are unable to answer your question however, as we need to know more specifically what detail you are referring to. If you might arrange a photo and/or jacket design reference number or photo of it as well... we of course, will try to give you some answer(s). As written however, we do not understand what your question is referring to exactly. Hoping to hear from you and thank you again.

    Best wishes, Geoffrey & the team

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