Paris Men's FW 10/11 schedules

[.thejass.]

Saturday January 23
2.00pm Tillmann Lauterbach, location tbc -:

i was at a group dinner in berlin last november and there was this guy at the end of the table who was introduced to me by his first name - tillmann - it was not until later that night when we all shared a cab to a music event i learned he was the desinger tillman lauterbach, i've seen his pieces here in nyc at 'opening ceremony' - glad to see his show is mentioned here - tillman's a cool guy!

[Faust]

opening ceremony can suck it.

[.thejass.]

opening ceremony can suck it.

are you saying you did not like opening ceremony's collaboration with pendleton

[chicblood]

Friday January 22


A very powerful day!!

[Faust]

My reviews. Feel free to discuss.

[stretcheroo]

^ Nice work. For someone (like me) that is just beginning to appreciate the nuance between designers and the evolution of their style, your writing sets forth in concise and understandable terms what is going on with some of the major players. I'd be interested in getting your descriptions of the FW2010 collections that are not big runway names -- ma+, Devoa, Forme d', etc.

[Faust]

Thank you. I will be doing short interviews/articles with all of these guys (except grandma).

[Sombre]

My reviews. Feel free to discuss.

On Raf Simons: maybe you toned it down for official print, but nevertheless you highlighted something I've been meaning to say in the midst of all the heckling and "Rafarnolds" comments. Despite his new direction and apparent "selling out" if you look at individual pieces, Raf still maintains the architectural design touches and signature that made many here like him years ago. Even from the current (or recent) F/W 09, there are some pieces that are distinctly his and display his deconstructionism. The sweater Mumma was selling some time ago is an example. Even the neoprene gorilla arms stuff, while unattractive, is still within the realm of his previous work.

[V-J]

My reviews. Feel free to discuss.

thanks for taking the time to write these! i enjoyed reading them. mayb more next time?

[Faust]

Thanks.

Somber, yes, I agree, of course, the tailoring is still there. But, the soul...

[DRRRK]

^that sums it up pretty well. As I am still rather new to SZ I would be interested when you think Raf lost his soul. Not the exact moment, but the first collection lacking something that was there before.

[lowrey]

that probably varies for each person as there was a pretty long phase during which his style changed quite a bit before he went all beach towel. some would probably say right there and then when he ditched his original style and started making more tailored wear, or at least finally finally when busted out all the gimmicks (neoprene, asics...)

for me personally, I didn't really follow fashion ten years ago but looking back now, I've really liked his collections from around 02-04, when he was into a more youthful style. he was doing tailored pieces even before that, but everything still had that edge. then he started straying more towards classic tailoring (suits, oversized coats) and kind of went back and forth with having a voice in his collections and just doing boring, rehashed tailored wear.

in ss08 it seemed like he wanted to something "edgy", but not necessarily in the right direction, with colourful prints and the lego sneakers. I think this is where he strayed towards this gimmicky style, and now he is just mashing this into his tailored wear by putting neoprene arms over suits, which is just retarded. so I'd say it was a steady decline but really took a nose dive in the past few seasons.

this thread is definately worth reading, by the way

[THRILLERNATOR]

I´m way out of the loop, is that a colaboration with sitting bull and Carhartt?