Boris Bidjan Saberi Men's FW10 Paris

[lowrey]

Saberi presented a combined runway and installation this season, the collection seemed very refined with a lot more tailored pieces and a variety of materials. imo a very good collection, the pieces looked great up close, had his style but looked fresh compared to previous seasons which have been more or less the same.

[lowrey]

[1.618]

Wow. This is looking alot more refined than his last SS collection which i didnt quite get. Designs are maturing, not over the top, and interesting details from what I can see. Shoes on first model looks very ccp?

[lowrey]

I assume they are Augusta like last season. I talked to him briefly after the show but of course forgot to ask..

[TarHeart]

Personally, I think Boris Bidjan Saberi is back on track. Last season was a little bit of a disappointment. I think this is much better. The collection feels much more thorough and well-done.

Only negative is that it seems like a pretty small collection?

Also, I think Boris still have to work more with his own expression. I can see Owens, Doma and Julius. I don't think Boris own vision is strong enough.

[kofi3159]

Compared to last year..
This collection is much better..
Looking forward to it

[DRRRK]

+1 on eternal's post. Finally a coat I can imagine myself wearing next winter. Wait! Next winter? Damn. This coat is so beautiful.

[Sombre]

I think Boris still have to work more with his own expression. I can see Owens, Doma and Julius. I don't think Boris own vision is strong enough.

To be honest I'm getting tired of these comments. If a designer is not Rick, Ann, Damir (who is what, 4 years old?), Horikawa, or Helmut, someone always says, "Well I see -insert one of the aforementioned- not very original." Bloody hell. While that may be the case sometimes, it certainly isn't all the time. And it's not as if Saberi has copied these people throughout his (admittedly few) collections. He has elements unique to himself, which I can see here. People here draw these comparisons far too often, which makes them seem thoughtless, trite, or simply asinine.

More specific to this collection, I like that Saberi has expanded his use of wool ot coats. While I've liked his previous F/W collections, I felt he didn't offer enough for the heart of winter, as his coats are usually too light. I especially like the coat that echoes this season's boiled wool sleeveless wrap.

[magic]

very strong collection imo, those coats looks amazing

Thanks A for the posting.

[Mikael]

Are the clothes on the wood "models" the same than on the real models? Asking because I do not see the bright clothes on the wood

[curiouscharles]

little less doma, little more rick.

still won't wear any of it.

[lowrey]

To be honest I'm getting tired of these comments. If a designer is not Rick, Ann, Damir (who is what, 4 years old?), Horikawa, or Helmut, someone always says, "Well I see -insert one of the aforementioned- not very original." Bloody hell. While that may be the case sometimes, it certainly isn't all the time. And it's not as if Saberi has copied these people throughout his (admittedly few) collections. He has elements unique to himself, which I can see here. People here draw these comparisons far too often, which makes them seem thoughtless, trite, or simply asinine.

More specific to this collection, I like that Saberi has expanded his use of wool ot coats. While I've liked his previous F/W collections, I felt he didn't offer enough for the heart of winter, as his coats are usually too light. I especially like the coat that echoes this season's boiled wool sleeveless wrap.

fully agreed. I think it was In Aisce that compared to something like 7 different labels within the first page. I think this collection showed growth through the tailoring and materials, but still had elements typical to him. I don't really see resemblence to Rick, thats like saying every brand on SZ looks the same. as for Doma, they are long time friends and have grown simultaneously as designers, there have always been some overlapping elements or details in their work, but I think both have a very distinct style, especially comparing this seasons shows.

Are the clothes on the wood "models" the same than on the real models? Asking because I do not see the bright clothes on the wood

I believe they were all different looks, thats why there were only about 10 models. I think the collection will be fairly large as usual.

[Avantster]

I'm glad you got this shot, this jacket was seriously incredible in person.

This is a good collection and I don't see how the typical Rick/Doma comparison is of value here. There is a definite progression in tailoring, with jackets and pants in heavy, almost formal but slightly raw fabrics, clearly different from the exaggerated camp of Rick and the flowing elegance of Damir.

[TarHeart]

I'm a big fan of Boris Bidjan Saberi, and I think his earlier collections showed more personality and originality. Which I thought was great.

I didn't want to compare him with before mentioned designers. My intention was not to write him off as a plagiate. I don't think he is doing the same thing. Not at all.

I think every great designer have to be strong in her/his own language. I didn't get the feeling that Boris made his own language strong enough.

Apart from this, I liked the collection very much.

[Heirloom]

the more designers you compare him too, the less like each and every one of them he is. I like the felt, the soft lines. my appetite for black will stay unmentioned, but i'd like to see how he masters colour. the only colour i've seen was that horrible lavendar grey that doesnt go with anything.