Damir Doma Men's FW10 Paris

[mrbeuys]

except that he's croatian.

He's of Croatian origin, but grew up and studied in Germany. I think that renders him more German than Croatian.

Christian, I thought it couldn't happen... I believe you literally can't look bad in anything, but most of the fit pics from the showroom aren't working for me. It's too much volume, in the wrong places, I am not a fan of the textures or fabrics, some looks like you stole the bathrobe from a 70s motel, others look like something from the bad part of the 80s. Just can't connect to it when I see it "IRL", although I thought some of it was quite compelling on the runway. Curious to hear your thoughts, and those of others of course.

[Chant]

My opinion

Visit in the showroom confirmed the impression I had during the runway show.
Damir's work has now reached a sort of maturity. The ideas he had during the past two seasons (FW 09 ad SS 10) are now very clear, and have all been successfully translated in shapes, fabrics and colours.

Since most of the shapes have already been seen (wide thighs/narrow ankles trousers, ovoid shapes of the coats, falling shoulders, unbalanced jackets, etc.), one could have the impression that there's nothing really new in this collection. But Damir still works and modifies things, but at the margins (adding a hood to the infinity coat's shape for example, and playing with the lapels, which are oversized, giving them a more theatrical aspect), or improves some designs (the oversized pleated pants are now much easier to wear and the arrow like shape of the crotch is more clear).

But what is important to me is that he has now reached what he wanted to achieve, and his propositions are original and interesting.
In addition, he's one of the designers who like to play with the volumes (or with contrasting volumes) and wants to move away from the shrink-wrapped looks. That's maybe why some people, sometimes here as well, find his garments hard to wear. But let's face reality, people, shrink-wrapped is so last century ! Let's move to something else (and the way has already been shown by some other great designers - YY for example, even though he's not much worn here).

Forgot to say that visiting DD's showroom is indeed a tactile experience : I've never seen, in any of the other showrooms I've visited such beautiful fabrics and colours (the grey scale is amazing, and even tough I prefer the more coloured Damir, I've found a lot of beautiful, and different, colours in this collection, which seemed yet so monochromatic). And the fabrics are so gorgeous that the envy you have while visiting the showroom is to throw everything off the racks onto the ground to roll around and then sleep confortably on it.

[mrbeuys]

^^ Haha, well, guess we differ in opinion then, but I will reserve judgement until I see / feel it in person. And here I was thinking you look sad and disillusioned in the pictures

And I completely agree with Faust when he says he's an original voice now, I just don't know if I like the sound of it.

[pierce]

Have to say it all looks great.

[pierce]

I think Berlin fashion is overrated...its quite toned down with the exception of some crazy guys in Kreuzberg who throw layers of selfknitted sweaters and hats over themself and think they look cool...havent seen many people whome i would say are really good dressed in my subjective SZ influenced way...

But you could wear one of those damir doma "dressing gowns" in the middle of winter and no one would really notice :)

[tricotineacetat]

But let's face reality, people, shrink-wrapped is so last century ! Let's move to something else (and the way has already been shown by some other great designers - YY for example, even though he's not much worn here).

Who said that it was necessary for everyone to move on? I'm perfectly fine seeing his clothes on someone that feels comfortable, believable and well represented by his oeuvre, despite the fact that I don't feel the urge to change anything about my personal sense of dressing. The aspect of something new hardly ever informs my own style, it's really just about what looks good and makes sense on it's own, rather than in a head-to-toe designer silhouette.

[Chant]

/\ Humorous remarks are difficult to make on a board and, in addition, in a foreign langage. But, Tricotineacetat, I guess you know that I usually don't speak like that : "But let's face reality, people, shrink-wrapped is so last century ! Let's move to something else (and the way has already been shown by some other great designers - YY for example, even though he's not much worn here)".

Of course, I don't want everybody to move to DD, I want to be the only one wearing head-to-toe 70's designers bathrobes !

MrBeuys : proportions are a bit off on the pics, since the sample size is 46 and my usual size, 48.

[diamonds]

i dunno about this collection ... i've liked some of the last few more progressive collections. there are always some pieces i like (though none i could ever afford - pointless to say this, i know)

i cant help but think of 80's fabrics and tailoring, and I'm glad i'm not the only one.

in fact, the only redeeming quality here, for me, is the footwear. which are very german looking, and funny in that he chose to use german soles for his sneakers. i love those soles.

sorry for the weird disjointed post

[Faust]

it is strange for me to hear all the 80s references, because I don't see that at all. and i think it's the colors that make these clothes very unlike the bright 80s.

[BSR]

My feelings about Damir FW10 are close to Christian's. A lot of things are updates on previous designs, with better cuts, nice fabrics, and I really like the fact that he seems to improve on the same wide range of clothes he now masters completely. It's consistent and at the same time there are new things as well. For example these J-pants that come in nice fabrics, I tried them on, they fit absolutely perfect. I would bet they will be a hit for next season (maybe this cut is also available in SS10, I'll check)/ New knits too are amazingly soft and nicely done.

[Silk]

My feelings about Damir FW10 are close to Christian's. A lot of things are updates on previous designs, with better cuts, nice fabrics, and I really like the fact that he seems to improve on the same wide range of clothes he now masters completely. It's consistent and at the same time there are new things as well. For example these J-pants that come in nice fabrics, I tried them on, they fit absolutely perfect. I would bet they will be a hit for next season (maybe this cut is also available in SS10, I'll check)/ New knits too are amazingly soft and nicely done.

I see alot of people thinking that the only thing that will be available is huge billowy garments, but they forget about DDs great basics which he has always come through with. I am really loving the "tv static" color and the silverish/gold hooded coat in both the runway and showroom pics, but if they are enormous to wear I might have to re-consider(If Christian is wearing a 46 in the tv static infinity hooded jacket, then it is obviously way oversized compared to a typical 46). The fabrics seem to have this nice metallic sheen while also looking extremely high quality. I am also strangely interested in the poncho thing, trying to get my futuristic desert nomad steez on with this collection I think The j pants and knits look LUC quality but I would venture to think they will have a distinct DD vibe, setting them apart from the more traditional designs of LUC.

I love seeing DD stay with his known aesthetic and coming into his own with such a strong voice, I think he can only go up from here and I really look forward to seeing his future collections as his overall quality and aesthetic seems to be evolving while still maintaining his individuality.
I have to admit I am a way bigger fan of DD's SS collections, mostly because his FW garments are usually too huge and heavy for where I live.

[BUMMER]

I love what Damir Doma is doing, particularly in SS10 and this collection. I happen to love the 'billowy shapes' and 'nomad' feel that exist in these last two collections. I am reminded of 70's Miyake and 80's Yohji (Encens editors seem to agree..), but DD's amazing chalk/off white/bone/beige palette give the shapes an almost spiritual quality. It's a shame that I don't see more buyers picking up the white pieces: it is exactly what I'm craving these days..

[theaddict]

I thibk the comparison with Luc Quality goes way too far...I love dd for his designs, although I was a bit disappointed by this collection and after the great last SS, but manufacturing and quality wise LUC and DD have worlds between them. I think both labels have a totally different approach to the stuff they are doing and quality wise LUC is almost unbeatable and is on top with other labels like Augusta or ccp..I would compare DD more with rick (not aesthetically of course)

[Chant]

I would compare [quality wise] DD more with rick (not aesthetically of course)

No way : DD doesn't use poor fabrics like RO does, and I could show you some "artistic" stitchings on some RO garments that you wouldn't find on DD's.

[pierce]

Bought a few rick owens alpaca stuff and they were wizard sleaves after 3-4 wears. Which is abit shit for a $600 cardigan/jumper.

This is what I'll be wearing most of the summer. Need to find the 'O' trousers in europe though first.