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  • zamb
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2006
    • 5834

    +++ SPECIAL WORKS FOR SPECIAL PEOPLE+++
    EVER SO OFTEN OUR WONDERFUL FRIENDS AND CLIENTS COMMISSION US TO DO SOMETHING SPECIAL FOR THEM.
    Over the last 4.5 months, we had a nice SZ member has been working with us as an Intern/ Employee/ Go to guy. Yesterday was his last day and we had collaborated on a leather jacket he dreamed of with, that was made possible with the expertise of our workrooms.
    Here a Fencing Jacket/ Bomber Hybrid, made of Horween horsehide leather. Both he and I were truly happy with the results and we deduced to share them with you.















    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

    Comment

    • zamb
      Senior Member
      • Nov 2006
      • 5834

      Doubles
      Last edited by zamb; 12-16-2016, 03:11 PM.
      “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
      .................................................. .......................


      Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

      Comment

      • zamb
        Senior Member
        • Nov 2006
        • 5834

        Hello Sz'ers
        New info replaced this one....
        Last edited by zamb; 12-21-2016, 08:58 PM.
        “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
        .................................................. .......................


        Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

        Comment

        • oulipien
          Member
          • Feb 2016
          • 31

          very cool jacket.

          Comment

          • zamb
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2006
            • 5834

            Originally posted by oulipien View Post
            very cool jacket.

            thanks, appreciated!
            “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
            .................................................. .......................


            Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

            Comment

            • zamb
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2006
              • 5834



              IS THE SELVEDGE LOCK THE BEST ARTISANAL JEANS?

              When we sat down to design the Selvedge Lock Jeans, it was never with the intent to simply design "another pair of jeans." it was with the intent to create a pair of jeans, whose cut, construction and fit, solved many of the design problems often associated with a traditional pair of jeans. Problems such as:
              1.Crotches blowing out with regular wear
              2. Unsightly bulge at the front fly from buttonhole stretch
              3. Poor anatomic positioning of pockets
              4. Back to front rise ratio creating poor fitting/ butt cleavage

              The above four mentioned issues are some of the most common fitting problems with modern jeans, and our mission was to solve each one in our own way.







              1.CROTCHES BLOWING OUT WITH REGULAR WEAR

              This issue is a common problem for your most beloved Jeans. You wear them so much that the crotches blow out before the rest of the pants. What causes this?
              The problem is simple, most pants are constructed where there are four seams intersecting at the crotch. the left and right inseam, and the front and back center seam. When a pants is worn and the individual is walking, the seams are constantly rubbing against each other and the fabric disintegrates over time from this friction. To prevent this from happening, we have created a pattern where the inseam of the pants is moved to the front on the upper thigh, consequently there is no true inseam at the crotch of the pant.
              The crotch of the pants is one continuous piece of fabric moved to the front and doubled with the seat reinforcement panel, giving the pants a double layer of fabric where the greatest amount of wear and friction takes place....Problem solved. you will never have to worry about your Selvedge Lock Jeans crotch blowing you






              2. UNSIGHTLY BULGE AT FRONT FROM WAIST BUTTONHOLE STRETCH

              How often do we see Jeans, where the button hoe wears away or stretches out and there is an unsightly gap just below the waist of the pants as a result of this.
              We solved this problem on the Selvedge Lock Jeans by created a waistband with a 3" extension and two buttons at the front. the pressure of holding the pants together at the waist is distributed over a wider surface area, and two buttons instead of one, so there is no stretching of the button hole. the pants then lays flat in this area and never develops this unsightly look.






              3. POOR ANATOMIC POSITIONING OF THE POCKETS
              Often times jeans makers are so fixated on aesthetics and simplifying construction processes that the user friendliness of the product is compromised. when we set out to make the selvedge lock jeans, we wanted both the from and the back pockets to be as anatomically correct as possible without compromising the aesthetic of the pants.
              the Back pocket on the jeans is positioned for easy access when you reach your hand towards the back of the pants, and low enough so you dont have to bend your hand awkwardly in order to access them. for the front pockets, we made the back of the patterns two inches bigger on each side of the pants, relative to the front, so that the front pockets are rotated towards the front of the wearers body rather than the side.







              4. BACK TO FRONT RISE RATIO
              How often do you own a pair of Jeans, where the front rises perfect, there is no bunching, but the back rise is so low you cannot sit comfortable in them without improperly exposing yourself.
              The problem is created because most Pants patterns are made with the center back of the pants sitting 1.5 inches higher than the center front on the pattern. So if the front rise is lowered, the pattern maker automatically lowers the back rise to keep this 1.5" ratio consistent. We decided not so, the Selvedge Lock Jeans is made with the back rise sitting 3 inches higher at Center back than the waist at center front. it makes for a pants that fits perfectly at center front, without losing any of the comfort and security you need at center back





              “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
              .................................................. .......................


              Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

              Comment

              • zamb
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2006
                • 5834

                New Code:
                FESTIVE15.
                Use at checkout to receive an additional 15% off already marked down goods
                Good for all Categories
                “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                .................................................. .......................


                Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                Comment

                • zamb
                  Senior Member
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 5834




                  Over the last five to ten years, there has been an increased awareness and appreciation for all things artisanal. Along with this increased awareness and consumption of artisanal products, comes the appreciation for Artisanal fashion.

                  On the downside of this movement, many, being aware of this and the “coolness” and marketing possibilities that can be developed around the term, have applied the word to different categories of products from food, to clothing to artwork, that really has nothing artisanal about them. The only association they have is the misappropriation of the word for marketing and profitability purposes.
                  The focus of this essay is to clarify what is Artisanal clothing. What it is about and to help you to develop a deeper understanding and appreciation for the real people who are committed to the process of creating artisanal fashion with little or no compromise.




                  What does the word ARTISANAL really mean?

                  The word Artisanal, when applied to products, refers to a product that is made in a traditional way, through non-automated, or non-industrialized processes.
                  With respect to clothing, this means a garment or garments that are made through the ability or skill of an artisan or artisans who executes the product from start to finish with little or no automation. So a shirt, made in a factory by dozens of people and machines that are set up to produce aspects of the garment without human skill at its center is not an artisanal product.
                  If one is making buttonholes on a shirt, in an artisanal sense, they are either made by hand completely (see a Geoffrey B. Small shirt) or made on a single needle lock stitch machine, one at a time by a skilled person (the way we do it at Zfactorie), rather than a seven head automated chain stitch machine that self folds he front of the shirt and sew seven or 8 buttonholes at once without human intervention.






                  Why is ARTISANAL clothing even necessary?

                  It isn’t that all clothing could not be made through industrialized processes. Industrial manufacturing increases efficiency, often reduces per item cost and provide clothing for millions of people at prices that are affordable. These are positive aspects of industrialization. However there are many negative aspects too, and one is often left to consider, whether the positives when compared to the negatives, creates a net win situation. Not just for the manufacturer but for the employees, for the society and the planet as a whole.
                  The negatives often include overproduction and clothing that end up in landfills. Clothing that are made using materials and supplies that are not biodegradable and damage our ecosystem in the name of profits for large corporation. Often (but not always) there exploitation of workers and in some circles an often a joyless work environment where human skill and ingenuity is not developed and personal satisfaction of producing a high level product through ones capabilities is missing from the life of the employee.
                  When artisanal clothing is produced, it brings about a kind of clothing that is beautiful, usually of natural fibers and materials that does not damage the environment. Unique and generally rare as most artisanal makers do not do large production and garments that are often a topic of conversation either by strangers on the street who appreciates the uniqueness of the wearer and the clothing or by those of us who already are in the know and have a deep appreciation for the kind of aesthetic beauty that can only be achieved through clothes that are infused with the soul of its creator(s). This alone and the joy that it bring to both the creator and the end consumer makes artisanal clothing very necessary to our world.



                  Is an ARTISAN an Artist?
                  While I often make the distinction between an ARTISAN and an Artist, there is a definite overlap between the two. Consider a world where there were no Rembrandt, no Picasso, no Mondrian, but only large scale computerized print manufactures and it gives you a good picture of why Artisanal designers and clothes makers are and will continually be important to the future of fashion.
                  Consider a word where there is only fast food, or home cooking, but no truly gifted chef making the highest caliber of gourmet food that fills one’s craving for a uniquely sensual eating pleasure that can only come from the best restaurants and the best chefs
                  Take a brand like Martin Margiela, at the height of his reign, the Maison headed by the man himself produced some of the best artisanal clothing to have ever been made. They had an unorthodox beauty and a high level of humorous intelligence that can only come about by having a unique mind capable of interpreting the world in an artistic way. When Margiela retired and the company was sold, the clothing produced by the brand got cleaner, more palatable to the masses, but they lost that pure artistic quality that can only come about by the work of a uniquely gifted artisan.



                  The Future of the Movement
                  Artisanal Clothing has gained a level of prominence in certain circles, especially among menswear connoisseurs that the movement is definitely here to stay. However there needs to be a clear separation and an a genuine effort to articulate and educate the masses or at least those genuinely interested in who an artisan is, what can and should qualify as artisanal clothing and a greater effort to promote these designers and clothes makers as such.
                  In 2017 I will be playing my part in writing more, producing more, demonstrating more and also TEACHING those who are interested in learning. Especially learning the techniques that are necessary to produce truly artisanal clothing. The world does not need more clothing or more designers, but it really does need people who take the time to produce the beautiful and unique garments that can only be made by highly skilled artisanal clothes makers who take the time and are faithful to the métier….
                  “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                  .................................................. .......................


                  Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                  Comment

                  • zamb
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2006
                    • 5834

                    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                    .................................................. .......................


                    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                    Comment

                    • zamb
                      Senior Member
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 5834

                      “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                      .................................................. .......................


                      Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                      Comment

                      • zamb
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2006
                        • 5834






                        Of all the pants we have designed and made, the DNA Jeans was one of the first offerings from our company. Over the years it has possibly become the most successful pants we have ever produced in our workrooms and maybe even the most successful item from our company. We have had many customers, who have bought various iterations of this pants, almost every season. We have also a particular customer in Seattle, who might actually own, every iteration of this pants, in every fabric it has ever been produced and made for sale in!
                        Sometimes a successful product becomes uninteresting to its creator, and the mind of the designer is challenged it either replace it with something new, or update the exiting product with a fresh ideas and functional improvements. Over the last three seasons, we have kept the classic DNA Jeans cut that our clients have come to know and love, but have worked to create a New version of the DNA, called the
                        "RIDGE SEAM DNA JEANS"
                        This new version of the jeans retains the double helix cut of its predecessor, but is more aggressive and far more detailed than the classic version of the pants. the name comes from the "ridgelike" seams , a design technique we created by overclocking the seams of the pants, and then encasing the overlock stitching in a reverse french seam with a raised effect on the outside of the pants.
                        This along with the the cold dyeing effect that gives the pants a marbled texture and leave areas closer to the seam the original color of the fabric, has created a pants that is more aggressive and interesting to both look at and wear, than the original classic DNA Jeans.









                        RIDGE SEAM DNA JEANS - GREY
                        the jeans this season is made from a medium weight Stretch Cotton that is 97% Cotton + 3% elastine, making the pants very comfortable to wear and solving a problem several of our customers have, of the pants being tight just below the knees for guys with thicker calf muscles. The Cold Dyeing process gives the pants a nice "marbled texture' that is a feature of artisanal garments












                        Unlike the original version of the DNA's that are made with flat patch pockets sewn to the body of the pants, these pockets are built onto the the overlocked seams of the upper block
                        “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                        .................................................. .......................


                        Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                        Comment

                        • zamb
                          Senior Member
                          • Nov 2006
                          • 5834



                          THE HENRIKSSON HOODIE
                          - A History -
                          It was the year 2011, and we received an email from one of our customers on the other side of the world, He was interested in commissioning us to design a special hoodie for him. He did not want something traditional. No kangaroo pockets, no ribbed cuffs, none of the traditional features that are associated with a traditional hoodie. the only thing he wanted that it should be made of wool knit.
                          with very little info, we began to work.





                          I took out a jacket pattern, as I wanted this to be something slim fitting and tailored, curved sleeves in the same manner of a blazer. I designed the hood to be a part of the body of the garment but not a separate piece. the location of the customer was in Sweden. Cold so I designed the hood to close high up on the wearers face, with just enough space for the eyes and part of the nose, Pockets were added, but ones in the side seams, constructed in the inside to conceal them. The Garment was clean, minimal and without any detail that was not functional.





                          When the client received his garment he was more than pleased. the fit was great, the design and construction was more than he imagined, and he ordered three more.
                          With his blessing, we decided to name the garment in his honor and to product it as a part of our offerings to other customers. Little did we know, this particular garment would become our most successful outerwear piece and one of the most successful offerings from our workroom.





                          We make them every season, with tweaks, adjustments etc to keep them fresh. Somehow though, the original is still the best and we keep going back to that clean, minimal piece , a pure design stripped down to the bare essentials and elevated by virtue of its fit, functionality and timelessness.
                          We make them in Cotton. We make them in Wool, Now we make then in leather. they are loved in leather, because of its simplicity and versatility. they can be worn over T-shirts, in lighter weather. then under blazers or coats in colder temperatures.
                          Everyone who owns them are in love with them, possibly the perfect hoodie.



                          This FW16 Season, for the first time we make the leather ones with a lining. Cotton. Stretch. With a gloved sleeve. Two big inner pockets, the original outer design untampered with, nothing was needed there so we didn't bother, we just wanted to make it warmer. It is. Mission accomplished, and a great garment has been made greater without compromise.
                          “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                          .................................................. .......................


                          Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                          Comment

                          • zamb
                            Senior Member
                            • Nov 2006
                            • 5834




                            Hello SZ.
                            The final segment of our FW16/17 sale has begun.
                            We are leaving for Paris Market this upcoming week and until the 25th you can take an extra 20% off already marked down goods in all categories on the webstore
                            Use Code: PARIS20 at checkout to receive your discount
                            “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                            .................................................. .......................


                            Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                            Comment

                            • AVerdantShore
                              Senior Member
                              • Jan 2011
                              • 112

                              I hardly ever get a chance to spend time on the forum, these days, but whether or not seen by many outside of this niche, I was happy to read your little photo-essay just now. Thank you for that.

                              Comment

                              • zamb
                                Senior Member
                                • Nov 2006
                                • 5834

                                [QUOTE=zamb;524158]


                                Hello SZ,

                                We are still in Paris, for mens market, so if anyone has emailwed or Messaged us and have not yet recieved a response please pardon as the internet service here is not the best.

                                Our Webs tore was down for the 24th for some necessary updates, but it is back up now for those who were interested.
                                there are more items that has been marked closer to the sale prices and we have extended the Paris20 sales code (which gives you an additional 20% off) until the end of the month. We should be back in the US this weekend, so if you have made a purchase etc, your will be shipped as soon as we return.



                                Today is the final day for anyone who is in Paris and would like to visit the showroom. to Make arrangements for this, please send me an email at: dialogue@zambarrett.com
                                “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                                .................................................. .......................


                                Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                                Comment

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