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Thread: Zam Barrett Dialogue

  1. #21

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    what's the price point, better iterations can often lose to better price. no discredit to this work, though. the compass will probably point back to sz in one way or another for anything that stems from here. even christian's salvaged furniture bare's the cross. looks legit for a first collection, will have a market on here and can see it working in newyork for sure. some background from zamb may be useful the fashion world doesnt revolve around atelier but not every designer wants to be poell ( despite the object dye semblance.) i have friends who are happy making far more than i do designing jersey tank lines for kids. not to equate this with that but you know.

    way better than your brother NEIL, zamb.

  2. #22

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    the term object dyed- has deep rooted connections with CCP.
    It is a term he came up with- While,garment dying has been done by yohji,comme etc it wasnt until carol did we see a shoe/leather jacket being dyed post production in the tanning barrels.- Hence the term object dyed. I associate the term with carol. Why not use the word garment dyed? Its a fairly generic term.

    Hammering leather wont make a stiff leather much softer my friend- Treating it with certain oils will- Hammering might help afterward.
    When you use the term 'hammered leather' you immediately strike a chord with those fans of Rick Owens/etc. Cut the jargon is all that I am saying. It goes a long way.

    I am a firm believer that the product, above all, should do the talking.

    While your bags might reveal your influences, they do not come across the same way as your clothes- they dont look tired.
    Like i said, the leather doesnt look too great- but...if you focus on that and the components i can see them going a long way.

    For example, I still think that Amadei's strength is in his bags and accessories. His clothes and shoes take second place.
    Rick Owens- we all know- Leather outerwear Lord.
    Maurizio- Shoe/leather guru.
    Carol - the psycho tailor.
    Luc- knit genius.
    Paul Harnden - Faggin

    and so on and so forth.

    While they might all produce full collections, they all started with their best foot forward.

  3. #23
    Senior Member kuugaia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zamb View Post
    All Fashion/ clothing is derivative in one way or another............ anyone who thinks otherwise is either delusional or misguided.
    "Nothing of me is original. I am the combined effort of everybody I've ever known." Chuck Palahniuk

    Items look quite wide from the flat images, is that the type of silhouette you were aiming for?

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by C'est Fini View Post
    the term object dyed- has deep rooted connections with CCP.
    It is a term he came up with- While,garment dying has been done by yohji,comme etc it wasnt until carol did we see a shoe/leather jacket being dyed post production in the tanning barrels.- Hence the term object dyed. I associate the term with carol. Why not use the word garment dyed? Its a fairly generic term.

    Hammering leather wont make a stiff leather much softer my friend- Treating it with certain oils will- Hammering might help afterward.
    When you use the term 'hammered leather' you immediately strike a chord with those fans of Rick Owens/etc. Cut the jargon is all that I am saying. It goes a long way.

    I am a firm believer that the product, above all, should do the talking.

    While your bags might reveal your influences, they do not come across the same way as your clothes- they dont look tired.
    Like i said, the leather doesnt look too great- but...if you focus on that and the components i can see them going a long way.

    For example, I still think that Amadei's strength is in his bags and accessories. His clothes and shoes take second place.
    Rick Owens- we all know- Leather outerwear Lord.
    Maurizio- Shoe/leather guru.
    Carol - the psycho tailor.
    Luc- knit genius.
    Paul Harnden - Faggin

    and so on and so forth.

    While they might all produce full collections, they all started with their best foot forward.
    Are you being serious? LMAO! If your going to start policing people for using terms like object-dyed and labeling them all derivative, you've got a long list of designers out there to start tackling. I do understand what you are saying and where you are coming from...for instance: Luca used the term over-dyed as opposed to garment/object dyed. Ok, argument in your favor there, but you have to remember you can find examples of this everywhere. Michel Berandi used the hammered leather (and yes, he called it hammered leather [hammered using oils in the process/c'est fini correct]) long before I know of it entering Rick's selection of materials. Why not jump on Rick about that one?

    Zamb, I am digging the idea of the siamese tote. Very nice. However, I do have to agree with C'est Fini in that my initial response to the leather used on the bags isn't very favorable, but without actually handling the pieces..this is simply speculation. Ok, trying to be constructive here and that's the only criticism I care to share. BTW, stitch work looks great on the outerwear (at least from what I can see). Keep up the good work Z! SALVT!
    Last edited by DHC; 04-26-2010 at 02:18 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    fuck you, i don't have an attitude problem.

    Sartorialoft

    "She is very ninja, no?" ~Peter Jevnikar

  5. #25

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    what do you mean by "faggin" in this context? I am not up on british slang, but is this a compliment or gaybashing?

    Zamb certainly does have his own unique style- you can see by the pocket detailing and leather patches, and various other subtle details. carol christian poell didn't invent the blazer nor rick the leather jacket, its always their details that innovate, and I believe zamb has made excellent advancements in his fields as well.
    not to mention...not everything needs to be cutting edge. most clothing people actually wear here is...just nice, well made clothing.


    Zamb, everything looks great in the photos, looking forward to seeing in person!
    the design of the dna and j pants especially...

    Quote Originally Posted by C'est Fini View Post
    the term object dyed- has deep rooted connections with CCP.
    It is a term he came up with- While,garment dying has been done by yohji,comme etc it wasnt until carol did we see a shoe/leather jacket being dyed post production in the tanning barrels.- Hence the term object dyed. I associate the term with carol. Why not use the word garment dyed? Its a fairly generic term.

    Hammering leather wont make a stiff leather much softer my friend- Treating it with certain oils will- Hammering might help afterward.
    When you use the term 'hammered leather' you immediately strike a chord with those fans of Rick Owens/etc. Cut the jargon is all that I am saying. It goes a long way.

    I am a firm believer that the product, above all, should do the talking.

    While your bags might reveal your influences, they do not come across the same way as your clothes- they dont look tired.
    Like i said, the leather doesnt look too great- but...if you focus on that and the components i can see them going a long way.

    For example, I still think that Amadei's strength is in his bags and accessories. His clothes and shoes take second place.
    Rick Owens- we all know- Leather outerwear Lord.
    Maurizio- Shoe/leather guru.
    Carol - the psycho tailor.
    Luc- knit genius.
    Paul Harnden - Faggin

    and so on and so forth.

    While they might all produce full collections, they all started with their best foot forward.

  6. #26
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raw Edge View Post
    what do you mean by "faggin" in this context? I am not up on british slang, but is this a compliment or gaybashing?
    I would imagine he meant a Dickens character, only he misspelled it.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  7. #27

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    mini lol at that^

  8. #28
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    I don't think much of this is SZ related. I can see some resemblance in the cut of the pants - but J-shape is actually a more common cut than C'est Fini suggests - Galliano has been doing it, Dirk Schonberger too. It does not belong to Carol or Julius. As for the rest, it's very much Zam's own. As for your appeals to cohesion, eat_me, you maybe surprised, but I have seen many of these garments on Zam and they indeed go together. If you are looking for some kind of a theme, a-la Ann, you won't find it, just like you won't find them in CDiem or Poell, the guys who concentrate on the garment itself rather than on presenting a larger theme.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by C'est Fini View Post
    Ok now we all know the details seen here are a little too familiar.
    The much too hyped 'J' pant.
    " overlock stitch
    Shiny Crushed shirts( Im sorry zam but I can tell how a fabric is going to feel by just looking at it) - Metal gets itchy after a few washes.
    Leather doesnt seem inviting either, seems dry and stiff.
    What is the story behind the material? If there is one- i would like to know. What painstaking lengths do you go to acquire your fabric?
    I need a story.

    Over all the feeling I get is a mish mash of hyped/popular sz pieces.
    Where is the attack?
    Where are you confronting/challenging your audience?
    What is the point of this creation?- just to be consumed? please.
    I presume you are a thinking man.

    Is this all for SZ? People here are being nice because youre a veteran forum member- any new designer would be bombarded with questions. Im taking a neutral stand here. My questions are meaningful enough.

    Id like to hear your point of view.
    Talk everyone through the collection.
    Myself, and everyone out there for that matter would like to know why you decide to pair a sheeny'hammered leather' vest with a ruffled shirt/crushed silk white shirt and overlocked jeans when better iterations of the same could be found elsewhere.


    That said, the bags dont look that bad, but you could do with better leather and components. If i were you id stick to that.
    Quote Originally Posted by C'est Fini View Post
    Deleuze,

    I merely stated my opinion.
    I want to know where zam is coming from. Anything wrong with that?
    I dont want to get into cyclic originality debate.
    Why does he use terms like 'hammered leather and object dyed'?
    Everyone is jumping on this bandwagon.

    While it seems derivative to me, I am questioning zamb to prove otherwise.
    Fashion doesnt revolve around atelier NY's taste._They are a great store with a great outlook no doubt.
    While the rest of your inquiry may be valid, I'm going to take issue with the bolded sentences. What is wrong with the terminology Zam uses? Have you considered how inauthentic your own lexical selections appear? Shall I assail you for those options? Do I not seem pretentious when I meaninglessly opt not to use simpler words? Nothing is wrong with the descriptions Zam has given. What else do you want him call a leather piece he hammered?

    As for the collection itself, I see much more Zam than I do popular SZ designers. The man has been making those shirts and vests for a long time. If I recall, he prefers a slim leg to his pants, so the J-shape and the DNA pants aren't terribly surprising either. I'll admit I had never heard of J-shaped pants before I joined SZ, but I assume all the designers didn't spawn them simultaneously, so if the origin of these pants really does come from one of these designers, clearly everyone else is following, in which case everyone except that one designer deserves criticism.

    One point I will agree with you about is that I'd like to see some styling to see how the garments relate to each other.
    An artist is not paid for his labor, but for his vision. - James Whistler

    Quote Originally Posted by BBSCCP View Post
    I order 1 in every size, please, for every occasion

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by SombreResplendence View Post
    As for the collection itself, I see much more Zam than I do popular SZ designers.
    Word!
    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    fuck you, i don't have an attitude problem.

    Sartorialoft

    "She is very ninja, no?" ~Peter Jevnikar

  11. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    I would imagine he meant a Dickens character, only he misspelled it.

  12. #32

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    Faust, fair point. I think my view of a collection being a collection is very institutionalized, so I see these garments as a more of an assemble of pieces + bags. Perhaps it's just to early to jump on Zamb, there always needs to be some time given to a designer to find his own style.

  13. #33

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    "totally Faggin', bro!"

  14. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    I don't think much of this is SZ related. I can see some resemblance in the cut of the pants - but J-shape is actually a more common cut than C'est Fini suggests - Galliano has been doing it, Dirk Schonberger too. It does not belong to Carol or Julius. As for the rest, it's very much Zam's own. As for your appeals to cohesion, eat_me, you maybe surprised, but I have seen many of these garments on Zam and they indeed go together. If you are looking for some kind of a theme, a-la Ann, you won't find it, just like you won't find them in CDiem or Poell, the guys who concentrate on the garment itself rather than on presenting a larger theme.
    sorry to nit pick this but poell's collections are totally thematic and overtly conceptual in scope, but i'm assuming i've misinterpreted something in your statement.

    looking forward to seeing in person zambo. based on the photos, there def. appears to have been a dramatic improvement in sleekness and vision over the work in the DIY thread, which despite people's hangups over nods to trendy lexicons, should be a fine enough reason to , especially since zamb is kind and brave enough to show us his artistic process.
    One wonders where it will end, when everything has become gay.

  15. #35

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    i want that faggin Nick bag!

  16. #36

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    Fantastic gear. Would love to see closeups and fit pics of the boiled wool and silk hooded scarf. Thank you.

  17. #37
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by philip nod View Post
    sorry to nit pick this but poell's collections are totally thematic and overtly conceptual in scope, but i'm assuming i've misinterpreted something in your statement.
    I don't mean that the garments from each collection don't have esthetic cohesion, but rather that they don't have a story behind them. They are more garments for the sake of garments, not for the sake of telling a story. Not sure if that makes sense.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  18. #38

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    u know more than i but i thought ccp collections often had a story. like the hairy collection, the airy collection (weight reduction: perforations, etc), the humanoid collection (jointed pieces and such). there was that one about the #13. the skewed collection (twisted seams and all). i'm forgetting a lot but my point is that when looking over his work in the threads it seemed to me that his ideas are brought forth in groups.

    this has nothing to do with zamb. sorry zamb! nice work!

  19. #39

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    ^ no you're right, Carol's work and his collections as a whole are incredibly thematic

  20. #40

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    ccp's theme are in the details - construction/process.

    ignoring the terms/discussion of influences (which are really banal). they look good zamb for a, (i assume) debut collection.

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