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Thread: Zam Barrett Dialogue

  1. #1121

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    Of all the pants we have designed and made, the DNA Jeans was one of the first offerings from our company. Over the years it has possibly become the most successful pants we have ever produced in our workrooms and maybe even the most successful item from our company. We have had many customers, who have bought various iterations of this pants, almost every season. We have also a particular customer in Seattle, who might actually own, every iteration of this pants, in every fabric it has ever been produced and made for sale in!
    Sometimes a successful product becomes uninteresting to its creator, and the mind of the designer is challenged it either replace it with something new, or update the exiting product with a fresh ideas and functional improvements. Over the last three seasons, we have kept the classic DNA Jeans cut that our clients have come to know and love, but have worked to create a New version of the DNA, called the
    "RIDGE SEAM DNA JEANS"
    This new version of the jeans retains the double helix cut of its predecessor, but is more aggressive and far more detailed than the classic version of the pants. the name comes from the "ridgelike" seams , a design technique we created by overclocking the seams of the pants, and then encasing the overlock stitching in a reverse french seam with a raised effect on the outside of the pants.
    This along with the the cold dyeing effect that gives the pants a marbled texture and leave areas closer to the seam the original color of the fabric, has created a pants that is more aggressive and interesting to both look at and wear, than the original classic DNA Jeans.









    RIDGE SEAM DNA JEANS - GREY
    the jeans this season is made from a medium weight Stretch Cotton that is 97% Cotton + 3% elastine, making the pants very comfortable to wear and solving a problem several of our customers have, of the pants being tight just below the knees for guys with thicker calf muscles. The Cold Dyeing process gives the pants a nice "marbled texture' that is a feature of artisanal garments












    Unlike the original version of the DNA's that are made with flat patch pockets sewn to the body of the pants, these pockets are built onto the the overlocked seams of the upper block
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  2. #1122

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    THE HENRIKSSON HOODIE
    - A History -
    It was the year 2011, and we received an email from one of our customers on the other side of the world, He was interested in commissioning us to design a special hoodie for him. He did not want something traditional. No kangaroo pockets, no ribbed cuffs, none of the traditional features that are associated with a traditional hoodie. the only thing he wanted that it should be made of wool knit.
    with very little info, we began to work.





    I took out a jacket pattern, as I wanted this to be something slim fitting and tailored, curved sleeves in the same manner of a blazer. I designed the hood to be a part of the body of the garment but not a separate piece. the location of the customer was in Sweden. Cold so I designed the hood to close high up on the wearers face, with just enough space for the eyes and part of the nose, Pockets were added, but ones in the side seams, constructed in the inside to conceal them. The Garment was clean, minimal and without any detail that was not functional.





    When the client received his garment he was more than pleased. the fit was great, the design and construction was more than he imagined, and he ordered three more.
    With his blessing, we decided to name the garment in his honor and to product it as a part of our offerings to other customers. Little did we know, this particular garment would become our most successful outerwear piece and one of the most successful offerings from our workroom.





    We make them every season, with tweaks, adjustments etc to keep them fresh. Somehow though, the original is still the best and we keep going back to that clean, minimal piece , a pure design stripped down to the bare essentials and elevated by virtue of its fit, functionality and timelessness.
    We make them in Cotton. We make them in Wool, Now we make then in leather. they are loved in leather, because of its simplicity and versatility. they can be worn over T-shirts, in lighter weather. then under blazers or coats in colder temperatures.
    Everyone who owns them are in love with them, possibly the perfect hoodie.



    This FW16 Season, for the first time we make the leather ones with a lining. Cotton. Stretch. With a gloved sleeve. Two big inner pockets, the original outer design untampered with, nothing was needed there so we didn't bother, we just wanted to make it warmer. It is. Mission accomplished, and a great garment has been made greater without compromise.
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  3. #1123

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    Hello SZ.
    The final segment of our FW16/17 sale has begun.
    We are leaving for Paris Market this upcoming week and until the 25th you can take an extra 20% off already marked down goods in all categories on the webstore
    Use Code: PARIS20 at checkout to receive your discount
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  4. #1124
    Senior Member
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    I hardly ever get a chance to spend time on the forum, these days, but whether or not seen by many outside of this niche, I was happy to read your little photo-essay just now. Thank you for that.

  5. #1125

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    [QUOTE=zamb;524158]


    Hello SZ,

    We are still in Paris, for mens market, so if anyone has emailwed or Messaged us and have not yet recieved a response please pardon as the internet service here is not the best.

    Our Webs tore was down for the 24th for some necessary updates, but it is back up now for those who were interested.
    there are more items that has been marked closer to the sale prices and we have extended the Paris20 sales code (which gives you an additional 20% off) until the end of the month. We should be back in the US this weekend, so if you have made a purchase etc, your will be shipped as soon as we return.



    Today is the final day for anyone who is in Paris and would like to visit the showroom. to Make arrangements for this, please send me an email at: dialogue@zambarrett.com
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  6. #1126

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    Quote Originally Posted by AVerdantShore View Post
    I hardly ever get a chance to spend time on the forum, these days, but whether or not seen by many outside of this niche, I was happy to read your little photo-essay just now. Thank you for that.
    thank you, we will be doing more of them in the future



    ZB
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  7. #1127

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    Today was the last day of a successful Paris Market week for FW17.

    It was good to see some friends and thanks to everyone who came to visit me.
    his trip was an "interesting" one to say the least


    Sorry to those whom i wanted to visit but didn't get a chance to see, I was stick in the showroom most days till 8 pm, if anyone is around tomorrow and want to meet you can send me a message
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  8. #1128

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    THE HIGH NECK MINIMALIST JACKET - THE STORY





    As the FW16/17 season comes to a close, it would e unfair to continue our product feature series, without doing an article on the High Neck Inner Leather Jacket.
    While we have done and continue to do many leather Jacket styles, the Inner leather holds a special place for us. It was the signature piece in that legendary FW11 collection that was our first collection shown in Paris, and the one that gave us the recognition of being serious menswear Avant Garde designers in this Artisanal niche market.
    Looking back on that collection, there were so many pieces in their first and early development stages that we continue to do new iterations of to this day.
    Items like the MINIMALIST J JEANS, THE RAZOR COAT, THE HENRIKSSON HOODIE, all were first shown as a part of this collection exactly six years ago.









    Now Back to the High Neck Inner Leather:
    While the jacket has only seen three iterations because it's not made every season, except for an adjustment of the sleeve cuff, the original design remains unchanged. Sometimes a garment is so perfect in its execution that any needless changes to it becomes a step back, rather than a forward movement. This is one of those cases.







    For that particular season, we were focused on the idea of creating garments, that were simple on the outside, but complex internally, in the same manner as the human body. Anyone who does not understand biology or a child who has no knowledge of internal organs, will assume that the human body consist of only the visible parts such as skin, eyes. mouth, hands legs etc.
    However to the advanced individual, organs such as heart, lungs, brain, intestines etc are all a part of the package. The INNER JACKET was built on this concept. the idea of creating garments that were simple on the outside, but had pockets, colors (Red was used for the color of blood) on the inside, more that what first meets the eye
    The Jacket was originally made from Himalayan goat leather. Black. Two double sliding riri zippers that are visible on the outside, when opened they reveal the red leather underneath, with a second set of pockets build into the red leather that is completely invisible when worn. In the same manner human internal organs are not visible externally.
    The second iteration if the Jacket was the Combat Green Version shown in the picture here. Interestingly only three examples of this color was made as it never made production. Anyone who owns this version happens to own one of the rarest Jackets we have ever produced
    .









    The jacket was pretty much out of our rotation, until we got two request for a custom order of the jacket, as customers seemed very fond of it as one of the great jackets we ever produced, Most customers who own them seem to hold on to them and speak of them in fond terms, the design, the construction, the substantial structure of the piece, almost bulletproof in feel. So we decided to produce it again for the Fall 2016/17 season. with the exception of a slight change to the sleeve (the button closure was remove to simplify the sleeve. the Jacket has remained unchanged from the original design.




    For the FW 16 version, we made it in Horween Horse Leather, 2 oz, sturdy but not stiff, substantial but not uncomfortable, Only 8 of them were made, so even this season its still a rare piece. We have a client in Greece, who owns many leathers, and he swears that this is the best jacket ever made by any designer anywhere. its good to know customer swear by your products on that level, with so much other options on the market.






    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  9. #1129

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    THOSE SECRET SUITS


    Over the years, our brand has built up a stellar reputation for providing the artisanally inclined client with leather jackets, interesting t-shirts, cool coats and some of the best pants this industry has seen. One of the key aspects of our offerings that may be often overlooked is our work in the area of suits.
    This so so for two reasons:
    1. While tailoring is a significant pillar of what we do, we are not known or marketed as a tailored goods company, or to a customer looking specificallj for tailored goods.
    2. The second issue is that while we make at least one suit every season, it is almost never marketed as a suit, but the Jacket and pants are often sold as separates.

    To our customers who have ordered custom made suits, and to those who look very carefully at out collections on a seasonal basis, there are always great suits to be found. For the FW16-17 season, there were several that were a part of the collection but hidden in plain sight. They are not promoted as such, but customers could purchase the matching pants and jacket in order to complete the suit.

    Take for example, the SUSPENDED POCKET PEAKED LABEL BLAZER in 100% Virgin wool Stripe, along with the CLASSIC SLIM PANTS in the same fabric. Taken together, these two items for a perfectly tailored suit.



    The Jacket has all the features of a classically tailored jacket made in a traditional bespoke atelier. Fully canvassed front, hand set collar with hand stitching under collar details. Working vent on the sleeve cuffs, rolled flaps on the pockets, fully lined. The uniqueness of it is in the cut and design specifically developed in our factory and executed by our own methods.

    The pants is tailored, a single back pocket, half lining in the front, it is made so that it can be won on its own, but also combined with the jacket to make a suit





    THE SUIT COMPLETED:



    This exact same design and possibility was repeated in the cotton version SUSPENDED POCKET PEAKED LABEL BLAZER and TAILORED SLIM PANTS.
    This time in stretch cotton, again not marketed as a suit but can be bought and worn as such.







    MOVING AWAY FROM FORMAL CLASSICS.
    Another suit possibility we created was the GLOVED MINIMALIST JACKET that can be pared with the SELVEDGE FRONT SUSPENDER PANTS of the same fabric to create a suit for someone who wants one but not a traditional formal classic suit.






    THE SUIT:



    These are options we continue to create, to make possible and offer to our customers, but its up to them to look, to seek them out when they are hidden in plain sight and to enjoy them for what they are, a suit for a client who does not necessarily want a classic one.
    Last edited by zamb; 02-03-2017 at 08:06 PM.
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  10. #1130
    Senior Member goldsamxo's Avatar
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    The fact you write these incredibly detailed & thoughtful essays on your pieces really shows your attention to detail. Makes me excited to pick up something in the near-future (broke college-student currently)

  11. #1131

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    Zam I gotta say I love these features too. It's great to have an insider look/trip into your thoughts.

  12. #1132

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    thanks, glad you like it,

    here is another; Enjoy




    THE WEIGHTLESS SERIES OF GARMENTS

    We are currently in the process of working on a multi part series regarding natural fibers. When we started, we thought it to be a simple project, but in our research and our commitment to doing justice to the subject we realized this project would need to be a multi part series. This is needed to give proper attention to the different kind of fibers (plant based vs. animal based) the different kinds of weaves commonly used in certain natural fabrics, along with some discussion on the kind of treatments that are done to strengthen, soften and extend the life of many natural fibers.

    In the time interim we present to you a shorter essay and item review, covering our weightless series of garments that we have been working on and expanding for several seasons now.
    While there has been a weightless shirts in long and short sleeved iterations, there has also been a weightless scarf, our main focus of the piece is our weightless blazer
    When we speak of weightless garments, we are not implying that the garment weighs absolutely nothing, what we are implying is that compared to traditional garments of the same category, and end use, these garments are lighter, thinner, and when worn, has a feeling of “weightlessness” that is the closest you can get to a functional item that feels almost like one is wearing nothing.

    THE WEIGHTLESS BLAZER
    When we speak of weightless garments, we are not implying that the garment weighs absolutely nothing, what we are implying is that compared to traditional garments of the same category, and end use, these garments are lighter, thinner, and when worn, has a feeling of “weightlessness” that is the closest you can get to a functional item that feels almost like one is wearing nothing.


    We started this project about the summer of 2012. We felt there was a need for a blazer, that was unlined, light, without traditional fusing and construction, that still retained both the cut and the traditional features of a blazer but something that could be worn throughout the entire summer, be cool and comfortable but retain all the functionality of a blazer
    The first mission was to decide what we could strip out of the garment in order to decrease the weight, still maintain its balance, but also not compromise the functionality in any way.






    The first act was to completely remove the lining and all fusing as a means of decreasing the weight of the jacket.
    We were determined not to eliminate any of the vents on the sleeve or at the back, but to figure out a way to retain them and their functionality,
    To do so, we adopted French Seams as the basic means of construction so we did have to add another piece (like say piping) and still have the internals of he jacket looking wonderfully made, and not increase the weight.







    The entire front facing was re-cut and reconstructed, very little interfacing was retained, only in the lapel area for the purpose of maintaining the lapel shape and structure. Two shirt style inner patch pockets are made in the inside of the jacket that helps to increase the durability in the chest area but still allow the user to have inner pockets to carry a pen, small documents or whatever the wearer deems necessary.




    The first iteration of the jacket was a single button version that was made in crisp shirt weight black linen. The Jacket was a very successful experiment and about 28 pieces were made and sold in the first season.
    For Spring 2016 the Jacket was updated with a longer body, and a new leather and metal snap front closure. This version of the jacket was made of linen brocade. Sixteen examples of this was made and they were sold out completely again.






    For the upcoming Spring 2017 season, the item will be offered again in two variations. A red overdyed version in 100% linen brocade and another in black lightweight linen with 3% spandex. The item continues to be a success because it provides a very light, comfortable and functional blazer to be worn at a time of he year when its too hot for a traditional blazer in a heavier fabric or with a lining.





    (THE PICTURE SHOWS THE FABRIC TEXTURE)
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  13. #1133

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    THE MAKING OF HIGH NECK "INNER" LEATHER JACKET







    Two weeks ago, we presented you with a product insight on the ideas behind the development and evolution of the inner leather jacket. We have had to produce several of the jackets in our Atelier during that time and we decided to share with you, some insight into the construction process of the jacket itself.

    The above image shows the pattern pieces that are used in the construction of the Jacket. Altogether there are 21 separate pattern pieces that are used to create the jacket. When cut there is a total of 34 individual pieces that must be hand cut and prepared to create the jacket.
    The sleeve and body linings can be stacked and cut to minimize time and increase efficiency, but the outer leather pieces MUST be cut individually and we precision.
    This is a set of pieces that are used to construct the front of the jacket. The red portion in which a welt pocket with riri M6 zipper are constructed is the "inner' portion of the jacket that is not visible when worn, this part of the garment is made, then attached to the front of the jacket (the black potion) in the process of constructing the front.
    Here is the inner portion of the jacket, being attached to the outer front with the extended zipper pocket that is at the side panels. This process is being done by master Tailor Alhagi who has been in our workrooms for the last 4 years and is the senior supervisor for all tailored goods that we produce.



    After the front of the jacket is constructed and checked, the side panels and back panels are then assembled to complete the body of the jacket in the respective size
    A PICTURE OF THE COMPLETED BODY OF THE JACKET

    The left and the right sleeves are then prepared, with the sleeve linings to be attached to the body of the jacket and checked for perfection.
    The sleeves are sewn in, this is done in exactly the same manner as we do on a traditional tailored jacket. The item is then placed on a form, to ensure that the sleeves hang well in the garment. The jacket is then balanced while on the form and the sizing is correct in all areas of the item. (We have a form for each size we produce in every garment)
    Sleeve perfection. There are no gaps, no pulls, no puckering, but a perfectly set sleeve that is well cut, well sewn and will fit the wearer exceptionally well.
    Here is a visual of the inner portion of the jacket when its put together. There is one outer large extended pocket and another smaller inner pocket that is constructed into the red leather.







    The lining of the jacket is constructed and added to the garment along with the collar and the front zipper. The jacket is constructed to ensure that the lining and inner portions are just as well made and just as beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside




    Once the garment is completed, it is given a two stage treatment: a light wet process to soften the leather and allowed to dry to about 90%. In the second stage it is then treated with a special Neatfoot oil solution specially developed by us here at Zfactorie to moisten the leather and extend the life of the garment. Sometimes, but not always, a light hand polishing is done to it if there is any variation in the uniformity of the color in the panels.
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  14. #1134

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    -- THE NEW MINIMALIST SLIM PANTS --
    We are pleased to announce that the new MINIMALIST SLIM PANTS in grey and black are ready and available on Zfactorie.
    We made 10 pairs, 4 pairs were reserved before production and now another 6 is available.
    The images are now online and the item can be seen here:
    http://shop.zambarrett.com/NEWARRIVALS



    The image above shows the color options of the pant in black and grey.




    -- MINIMALIST SLIM PANTS IN BLACK --





    -- MINIMALIST SLIM PANTS IN DARK GREY --
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  15. #1135

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    This looks simply amazing Zamb!
    I love beautiful melodies, telling me terrible things.
    My Music: https://soundcloud.com/iamanton

  16. #1136

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    Zam, is there a reason you're ignoring my emails concerning the refund that you owe me? Let me know as soon as possible so we can resolve this issue promptly and privately. You made promises weeks ago to give me my money back and it should have taken this long to do so and so much effort on my end coming to a public forum just to try and get your attention and response from you. This is unprofessional and childish. Ignoring me because I criticized your service and demanded a refund for something that was never done won't solve anything.

    Simple communication is all that's necessary. Evasiveness doesn't work. This has been going on for way too long and it's been a few weeks already since you agreed to a refund with no results just like a month after paying you for a shirt and also no results. This is all on a level of irrationality and I have never had to deal with this kind of treatment from a "business" in my life. What's going on man? A customer shouldn't have to beg a vendor for their money back!


    I see you've had issues with others concerning your coercive controlling behavior and an attitude here as well;

    A similar situation as mine found here

    I get that many artists and business owners can fall victim to their OCD tendencies but to project all that mess onto customers and then play victim is wrong. Leave that stuff out of your business. What's up with you man?


    EDIT: Faust, if there is a more appropriate place to air grievances against vendors please let me know.
    Last edited by psidy; 03-04-2017 at 05:12 PM.

  17. #1137

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    Context of conflict between psidy and Zam

    For the love of god please do not repeat the sequence here. It was a near death experience/

  18. #1138

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    A LOT of small businesses/designers or stores stop their activities during PFW for a while and I think it's a well-known fact (just like the PFW dates). I don't think anything is wrong here from the designer side.
    Expecting a custom order to take a 3 WEEKS is a borderline offence, try making a CCP order and wait for 1.5 years, huh?
    There is a second time psidy is caught with shirt issues, how about you just stop wearing shirts or involving yourself with artisanal clothing altogether? Maybe it's not your cup of tea.

    This argument was shut down by the mods of SF, I hope the same would be done here ASAP.

    Also, psidy, please do not bother yourself to reply to my post since I won't bother myself to reply to yours in this thread.

  19. #1139

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    All businesses have polices under which they operate. People who respect businesses respect the policies that are established to protect both the business and the customers that support them.

    There have been customers who have had legitimate issues with us, fine, we always work to find a resolution.
    But no customer is going to disregard fair business polices, run to public places, lie and slander my name and the name of my company and think that the (potential) bad PR is going to force me to cave to petulant and unreasonable demands suitable to them.

    It did not work on styleforum and it will not work here, nor facebook, instagram, twitter, New York Times, The Associated Press, etc..... etc.

    As far as I am concerned, I have told this fellow what I will do and he has not listened, now I might not even do that because I will not take a loss for someone who wants to maliciously slander my name thinking it can be used as a means to get me to cave to demands.
    I cannot be bullied or intimidated.

    I have not ignored his emails, he is lying about to create public problems as he think this will work in his favor. As far as I am concerned the matter is closed. and I will have no further discussions about it.
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  20. #1140

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    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

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