Ann Demeulemeester Men's SS11 Paris

[Chant]

I know, I know.
That's why you should buy the MA+ priest jacket at L'E. It would suit you so well.

[BSR]

I know, I know.
That's why you should buy the MA+ priest jacket at L'E. It would suit you so well.

it's not an MA+ coat, it's L'Maltieri

[Mail-Moth]

You're so right, Christian.



Sometimes apparent antagonisms just need a good collective flogging to be resolved.



(All black/all white. See ? Pure forms !)

[Faust]

I loved it. Everything was Ann about the show, and especially the white-black presentation. Cliche, sure, but it takes a master to make the cliche work, and I think Ann did that. At least it felt that way for me. Remember, cliches come from something real after all.

I thought the garments were nice, except the footwear. The shapes were familiar, but not overly so. There was a bit of ruching at the back of some of the jackets, and I believe that's new. Also, the very slim silhouette is not what we know Ann for, so for her it maybe new. Ann does not care much of where fashion goes - if she wants to do slim, she will do it regardless of whether hedi slimane and his followers has beaten it to death.

[Macro]

Ann does not care much of where fashion goes - if she wants to do slim, she will do it regardless of whether RAF SIMONS and his followers has beaten it to death.

Fixed.

Now that i've had a nights sleep, it's slowly growing on me. I can't wait to hear interviews where she explains her inspiration. What i've noticed since SS 09 is a slow movement away from the Youthful Spirit she embodies in her garments... the Demeulemeester man is growing up, and i'm having a hard time growing up with it.

[Castor]

Interestingly enough I've always found Ann to be best on someone with a few years on them. Kind of a youthful spirit for the mature man. I picture myself growing old in these clothes moreso than with Raf or Hedi in the past. I love that she is faithful to her own archives and we have a chance to see a reinterpretation of previous work, which I personally missed the first time around. It makes you realize just how timeless her work truly is.

Perhaps this is a riff on Collection Blanche for the guys.

[samueljoseph8809]

..

Nothing that excites me a great deal, i like the high boots but agree with most i dislike the velcro sneakers. I really enjoyed the latest A/W collection and was expecting something more this S/S season.

After taking a closer look there are some nice shapes and fabric variations, sometimes i like collections more when i see the products on the shelves and can make a proper judgement, i hope this is the case.

[Faust]

Fixed.

Now that i've had a nights sleep, it's slowly growing on me. I can't wait to hear interviews where she explains her inspiration. What i've noticed since SS 09 is a slow movement away from the Youthful Spirit she embodies in her garments... the Demeulemeester man is growing up, and i'm having a hard time growing up with it.

Mea culpa!

And Castor, I agree!

[sam_tem]

the issue for me is that all the old familiar designs look great as always, but all the new designs for this season just seem out of place and don't hit their mark.

[shinoda]

BLACK > white.

[Avantster]

But after a good night of sleep, I do find it was a interesting show. Not really for the garments, but because of the designer's (successfull or not) attempt to dry her inspiration to the bone and to display the forms at work in her creation.
And despite of the absence of color, despite of the industrial soundtrack - or maybe because of them - romanticism was still there, in my opinion. Forms in themselves are enough to convey it. And black, white may in fact become very romantic choices, especially when associated with the aforementioned forms.

This is also how I see this collection - an exercise in forms. Ann noted in a famous interview that when she wants to create a garment, she always does it in black or white, not wanting to be distracted by color. I can't say I can see the romanticism in these photographs but it's difficult to extract without the benefit of having seen them in person.

[Avantster]

Review by Tim Blanks on style.com

PARIS, June 26, 2010

By Tim Blanks

An all-white collection of clothes that cleaved close to the body signaled a change on the Ann Demeulemeester catwalk. Gone were the shadowy, poetic layers, replaced by pieces so clinical and precise they wouldn't have looked out of place in a Viennese fencing academy, or on the attendants of an upscale insane asylum (the white breastplates also looked like deconstructed straitjackets). Where there was volume, as in a silken parka or a jacquard coat, it was kept in check by a wide elasticated cummerbund that could probably work Spanx-like wonders on a wayward midriff, as well.

The show seemed over in a flash, but while the audience was uncertainly applauding, it started up again, duplicated detail for detail in black, with the cotton of the first course often replaced by leather. "I wanted to see what would happen," said Demeulemeester of the switcheroo. "Things look quite different. It's a different emotion."

She was almost right. Of course, white cotton and black leather are scarcely of the same family, but while you might expect the leather to have a dark, vaguely threatening cast, it was extraordinary how sinister the purest white could look as well. It was an intriguing experiment. And we're glad that Ann does these things, so we don't have to.

[jogu]

part of why i love this collection so much is that while goin thru each fit it gave me new ideas to wear older pieces i have when i thought there wasnt any new or diff way to wear em . its like lookin at an old garment and suddenly wearin it in a way i hadnt thought of before and now that old piece is fresh and fun all over again like i just bought it

[allanb]

There are larger images here: http://coutequecoute.blogspot.com/20...mmer-2011.html (part 1 of 2)

Edit: http://coutequecoute.blogspot.com/20...r-2011_28.html (part 2 of 2)

[nqth]

Review by Tim Blanks on style.com

so she showed the white pieces, stopped a litle and then went with the blk? that's so cool. it's like she played a bit with the audience n their expectation what is Ann D.