StyleZeitgeist

Go Back   StyleZeitgeist > Forums > Student Work and DIY Forum

Student Work and DIY Forum Showcase and discuss student and DIY work, your educational experience in fashion.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-03-2012, 10:59 AM   #1
ACM
Senior Member
 
ACM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 114
Default Julius Project

Hey everyone,

For a project at school this semester I've decided to do a few replicas and a few inspired pieces from various Julius collections to increase my sewing and patterning skills. I began this week with the beginning drafts of a replica of the asymmetrical top that was extremely popular.



I started with drafting a basic sloper with my measurements. The pattern was rather boxy on the sides so I used french curves and original dart measurements to give it shape on the sides.



Next I kind of free handed the asymmetrical curve on the hem of the top just by looking at the picture for a bit. I did the same for the back but here is a picture of the front with half of the extended panel drawn on.




The top has no side seams in the picture, so I had marked where the new diagonal seams would be on the front and back of the top. I taped the two pieces together to form one piece given that there are no side seams. You'll notice that the new seams I cut out have "dart" portions cut out in them. This was to account for the middle gap that looks like an asymmetrical diamond that is formed when you put the two front pieces side by side.



I traced new pattern pieces from the new cut outs that were made and drafted a sleeve that still needs to be extended since the sleeves in the picture are long and tight forming ripples.




I had a friend stop at mood last week to pick me up a wool blended with something else jersey that is ribbed and slightly sheer with quite a bit of drape. It was the closet thing to the original fabric I could find.

Will post updates when the first prototype is sewn!
ACM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2012, 12:06 PM   #2
messenoire
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: md.
Posts: 1,221
Default

i have the tee and there is a seam that runs across the length of the shoulders which i found interesting.also as with a lot of julius the arm holes are set fairly high up. i can take photos of the seam work if you'd like. good luck!
messenoire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2012, 12:46 PM   #3
ACM
Senior Member
 
ACM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 114
Default

I was oblivious to the shoulder seam....that would be wonderful if you could send some pics! The pics that I could find were never closeups and hard to make out. Thanks alot!
ACM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2012, 01:16 PM   #4
ACM
Senior Member
 
ACM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 114
Default

First prototype




This the first draft sewn together in a knit jersey. The final fabric will have more stretch, be obviously ribbed, and somewhat sheer. Ignore the side seam running down asymmetrical panel. That will not be there in the final product.

Adjustments to be made:

-The shoulder seams will be moved further inward
-Length of the sleeves will be increased by about 5 or 6in
-The width of the panel in this draft doesn't seem to be wide enough...am thinking of extending it about 1 in on each side
-I am going to slightly lengthen the bodice as well, and made it a tad be skinnier
-Obviously, I also need to add the binding for the neck

I'll post the next draft when it's all sewn up
ACM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2012, 01:27 PM   #5
LiveinblacK
Member
 
LiveinblacK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 35
Default

Hello I am a design student as well and always wanted to try to elimanate the side seams but was thrown off about what to do with that diamond shape hole that is left. So do you transfer it to another part of the pattern or just fill it in?

Thanks

Btw awesome job on the first draft, looking forward to see the final one
LiveinblacK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2012, 01:35 PM   #6
alex.a
Senior Member
 
alex.a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 249
Default

acm: good work, keep it up!

liveinblack: If you want to keep it fitted ( which will make it a bit more girly i find, as it will follow the waist curve and define the hips, you can keep it and transfert it into another seam ) or just make both side straight and make it a bit more boxy, there usually isn't that much curves on the hips for mens.
alex.a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2012, 01:48 PM   #7
LiveinblacK
Member
 
LiveinblacK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 35
Default

Cool, thanks!

Ill definitely give it a shot
LiveinblacK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2012, 01:56 PM   #8
ACM
Senior Member
 
ACM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 114
Default

Yes, you primarily just transfer that space to the seams that you ARE using. It was really tricky, but you'll see in one of the pictures I posted that I put some space in between the two diagonal seams.

I have since revised this pattern, making this space more dramatic to compensate for the space of the two diamonds PLUS another 2 inches overall because the material I am using it super stretchy, and I want it very fitted. I used a hip curve to make this space between the seams uniform and clean.

Also, in my opinion I would definitely make it more fitted with the curves of the hips. Yes, men don't have as defined hips as women, but with these Julius tops (this one specifically) it looks likes it hugs every curve of the body.
ACM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2012, 01:57 PM   #9
Patroklus
Banned
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,675
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LiveinblacK View Post
Hello I am a design student as well and always wanted to try to elimanate the side seams but was thrown off about what to do with that diamond shape hole that is left. So do you transfer it to another part of the pattern or just fill it in?
It depends on what exactly you're trying to do, because moving the dart to the back won't give it the same shape as leaving it on the sides. If you're just looking for alternatives to shaping the waist then you can use side back and/or side front seams, like a tailored jacket.
Patroklus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2012, 04:49 PM   #10
LiveinblacK
Member
 
LiveinblacK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 35
Default

Acm: agreed! Makes sense. Also I think the stretch in knits makes it a little easier then a stiffer fabric would. But thank you for the help and suggestions


Patroklus: Yes I agree and that would be great with a tailored jacket. You see a lot of the designers use a side panel and have no actual side seam. But what I was referring to was to just completely elimanting the side seams all together, like you would find in a knit top
LiveinblacK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2012, 10:12 PM   #11
ACM
Senior Member
 
ACM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 114
Default

2nd prototype with all of the adjustments previously mentioned. The next update will be the final product with the neck binding sewn on!

Ignore the horrible baby blue crepe fabric...It was on the clearance rack at Hobby Lobby, so I used it for practice since it was a similar stretch to my wool jersey

ACM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2012, 10:46 PM   #12
ACM
Senior Member
 
ACM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 114
Default

Update:

So after drafting it twice, I realized I made a pretty idiotic error: on the Julius tee the seams are going in opposite diagonal directions on the front and the back allowing for a seam to flow from EACH armhole.

MY draft (which I should have realized), has the seams going in the same direction on the front and the back which means that BOTH seams are coming out of a single armhole.

I redrafted, and also came to another conclusion: I don't think that the Julius tee was made this way. The method for accounting for the diamond shapes on the side seams is way to imprecise. I really think the tee shirt was made with straight side seams (in the original pattern before the diagonals are drawn in). However, that means that the bodice would have been drafted much narrower than I drafted mine. And the fact that the material is very pliable and ribbed would just mean that it would shape around the body naturally instead of being manipulated into a shape by the gaps in the seams I created.

That would also make it much easer to move the shoulder seams further inward and raise the armhole a tiny bit.

Back to the drawing board.
ACM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2012, 10:15 PM   #13
alex.a
Senior Member
 
alex.a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 249
Default

great conclusions, haha menswear isn't as curvy i'm pretty sure there is no curves on the side seams or if there is its probably super light! good luck, I hope it comes out nice !
alex.a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2012, 11:07 PM   #14
ACM
Senior Member
 
ACM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 114
Default

^Thanks for the support! Yeah, with the next draft, I am hardly going to curve the bodice at all. I'm just going to make the body a lot slimmer.
ACM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2012, 02:19 PM   #15
ACM
Senior Member
 
ACM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 114
Default

After a lot of guess and check and practice drafts to find out what fit my body best, I finalized a bodice design for the top. I had tried to do this by hand countless times, until I decided to use a computer program to do it instead which turned out to work miracle.

I picked up Adobe Illustrator because I knew someone who is very familiar with the program. It's a wonderful thing.



This new pattern accounts for a higher armhole (more like what Julius uses), and a front and back piece that are identical in width. The only differences between the front and back is that I made the back armhole length .5 inches longer than the front in order to move the shoulder seam forward a bit...It was looking kind of sloppy because it slowly moving down my back the longer I wore the prototype.

Ignore the excesses on the french curves. For some reason, when I tried to erase the parts I didn't need, it messed with the curvature of the lines.

Redrafting armhole next, and I think it's all set!
ACM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2012, 05:59 PM   #16
alex.a
Senior Member
 
alex.a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 249
Default

that's pretty cool, personally i still like making pattern by hands better. also, you have a dummy, why don't you make your block with it then adjust it with your measurements? and you should fix your neck hole it will create a point at the shoulder where the back and front meets the angles are not matching, the darts are still a bit too much if you want my opinion, its a stretch jersey, if you absolutely want darts id say make it only 1cm each max, just my tip! if you ever want some tricks for anything just write me i'm currently studying menswear design and there is a lot more to it than womenswear! i can try to give you some tips as best as i can, my english is not the best so i'd try to make it as clear as possible! Is it just a hobby or your actually studying fashion design?
alex.a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2012, 08:19 PM   #17
ACM
Senior Member
 
ACM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 114
Default

thanks! How would you go about fixing the angles at the shoulder? And I drafted the pattern quite a few times, and I found that with that dart length, it prevents the shirt from "riding up" because it comes in just the right amount at the waist
ACM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2012, 08:56 PM   #18
alex.a
Senior Member
 
alex.a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 249
Default

just place the shoulders next to another like this before adding seam values and fix the little angle by smoothing it, then separate the shoulders again. it should make it easier for you to sew the neck bias when you'll be doing the finishes and make a better finish too.

alex.a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2012, 10:43 PM   #19
ACM
Senior Member
 
ACM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 114
Default

That's a good idea. I will do that!

In answering your earlier question, I am a fashion student studying both design and merchandising. And the reason why I am not using the dress form that often is because it's a size 40 which is much too large for what I need. Also, I find that drafting by computer lends me much for accurate results...It's hard to achieve perfection by hand.

Also, you do know that the "darts" aren't really darts at all. They are just space in between the seams that I made larger to take it in at the waist. I won't be sewing darts on the top

Last edited by ACM; 03-28-2012 at 11:28 PM.
ACM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2012, 07:47 AM   #20
alex.a
Senior Member
 
alex.a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 249
Default

OH no i know haha! I just call them darts cause they are darts that were transfered between the yoke kind of thing! but cool! and yeah mine is a 40 too i need to get a 38!
alex.a is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:10 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.