Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)

[Faust]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)

[quote user="xadam"][quote user="Faust"]

no sir. avant-garde = moving forward, not backwards. justine said that right up top.

[/quote]

forward, backward, up, down, i'm just no going to get you to give me the thumbs up on that suit, am i?

actually, i agree with you that a classic look by definition isn't avant garde, but tb's last two shows (love them or hate them), if not his collections, are.

[/quote]

yes, the shows are quite different from the clothes.

[laika]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)

[quote user="xadam"][quote user="Faust"]

no sir. avant-garde = moving forward, not backwards. justine said that right up top.

[/quote]

forward, backward, up, down, i'm just no going to get you to give me the thumbs up on that suit, am i?

actually, i agree with you that a classic look by definition isn't avant garde, but tb's last two shows (love them or hate them), if not his collections, are.

[/quote]

avant-garde is a myth. the question is just what comes next in the cycle. according to Karlo, it sounds like the suit will be next, or at the very least, more structured/tailored menswear. buy a suit. [75]

[Faust]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)

not a suit in a conventional way, which i am afraid tbs suits are, no matter how much he shortens the hem.

[laika]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)

Well, what would you say defines an unconventional suit, Faust? [75]

[Faust]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)



[quote user="laika"]Well, what would you say defines an unconventional suit, Faust? [75]
[/quote]

And this is all before Steel even says anything about the coat, the
streamlined cut with narrow shoulders and high armholes, the exquisite
gray wool, the seams sealed with heat- and water-resistant tape, and
the lack of lining that proudly exposes the coat's construction. Maybe
this is one of the reasons why the store does so well.

[Y]

Edit: the visuals

reversible blazer

[laika]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)



[86]

Nice try. That's a description of an unconventional suit, but what exactly makes it unconventional? Is it the "exquisite gray wool?" The streamlined cut? Narrow shoulders? What does it all boil down to, and how would I recognize other suits (i.e., not Carol's) as being unconventional?

[Faust]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)

hmm, not sure how else to describe it, laika. all those details are a part of something whole, and that whole is very different from a conventional suit, and it does feel very modern to me. it's very different from TBs shrinking of a conventional suit. the context is different too - i don't see carol being fascinated with a time period or a particular milieu, whereas TBs 50's Americana is more than obvious.

[Casius]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)

Poell's approach definitely seems to be unconventional but in a subtle way. Taped inside seams, reversible blazer (and matching pant) for 2 suits in 1, jointed elbows and knees, etc. It doesn't seem as 'in your face' as TB's infamous short hemmed suits, which I would agree with Faust and say there is really nothing, other than the hem, differentiating it from what is a conventional suit.

[philip nod]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)

hahaha cas, trying wear one in public and getting yelled at "pee wee" by homeless as you leave your door. srsly though,the jackets are a completely different snug cut than convential suits.

[Fuuma]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)



*Throws rock in pond*

I think Carol's pagoda shoulders and trumpet sleeves look absolutely ridiculous on his suits. They make wearers look like eurotrash who shopped in the women's section.

*Runs away*

Some of his softer shouldered coats looks pretty good though, like the one dFDggnhngfgo has.

[laika]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)



[quote user="Faust"]hmm, not sure how else to describe it, laika. all those details are a part of something whole, and that whole is very different from a conventional suit, and it does feel very modern to me. it's very different from TBs shrinking of a conventional suit. the context is different too - i don't see carol being fascinated with a time period or a particular milieu, whereas TBs 50's Americana is more than obvious.
[/quote]

No, I see what you are saying. I was just teasing you for circumventing my query so cleverly. [66]

I'm
not entirely sure how to answer my own question, but it's something
i've been thinking about for my work. It seems like CCP is working
from the inside to change the suit, by using unusual construction
techniques, among other things. Also, he is very interested in
fit--the narrow and high armholes that Karlo mentioned, and also the
jointed pieces that he is working on. Whereas Thom Browne, also
interested in fit, is changing the way a suit is worn by altering
proportions--shrinking the size, raising the rise of the trousers,
etc. I definitely think that when it comes to suits, convention has a
lot to do with how the garments fit the body, and in that sense, Thom
Browne is unconventional. Maybe it's more about style than about
construction, but it's still significant, even if not exactly
innovative.

CCP is more subtle for sure, but subtlety is ultimately an aesthetic preference. It is possible to be unconventional in a non-subtle way.

[Faust]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)

/\ [86] edit: that was at Fuuma's post.

[laika]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)



[quote user="philip nod"]hahaha cas, trying wear one in public and getting yelled at "pee wee" by homeless as you leave your door. srsly though,the jackets are a completely different snug cut than convential suits.
[/quote]

lol. That's what i'm sayin'...

[Casius]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)

But that is if you happen to wear the TB suit as TB intended it. CCP, you have no choice! [75]

[Fuuma]

Re: Atelier Article and Interview with K.S. in Haaretz (Israel)



[quote user="Faust"]/\ [86] edit: that was at Fuuma's post.
[/quote]

I truly respect his approach to the whole process of making and finishing them, but god someone should help him with styling! Try to imagine someone wearing the whole look with pointy boots and white shirt with those sleeves and walking down the street, outside of a connoisseur context what you get is some Serbian nightclub owner who decided to tone down the stripped shirts.