random fashion thoughts

[gregor]

i think it also applies to leather jackets, considering what i've seen of late.


bet those all sell out at ink

[unwashed]

I remember MA+ did great pair of green derbies couple years back in a green color like the Guidi's. It's not something new to use colors. Maybe they've become a bit more vibrant, as of late.

Edit: found them. I like colored footwear, with a grey or black outfit you can really accentuate an outfit with colored shoes.

[zamb]

Yeah, he wants his cake and to eat it too, avoiding internet engagement and hype while in fact depending on it to keep raising his prices (and yes, they are insane, hats have doubled in price for the same model in a couple of years--although part of that might be our godawful dollar, now that I think about it ). A very different model to the active engagement by people like Zam, Geoffrey, who I feel show respect for their customers in the way they interact with us on here.



Carol? Margiela?

There are plenty of pics of Harnden floating around, and he's had past associations with other designers (Comme, ED).



Yeah, although MA+ prices have risen a fair bit. But yeah, always egregious. I sympathise more with those designers whose work shows more attention to detail--Its ironic that I can pay less for a Taichi coat than a PH jacket, considering that the Taichi coat has some obsessive detailing, silver fittings, and serious R&D each season for new fabrics, etc.

On the other hand, PR Patterson's cuts and materials keep improving (I love the hidden selvedge in his newer shirts, such as behind the fold in the placket). And his latest season is priced nearly identically to the first time I bought his work--high, but not ridiculous for the amount of work and the small volume.

PH raises his prices because he can, that's the real insult.



Hmmm. I'm hoping Bergfabel eventually finds its own direction, since I've liked some of the fabrics I've seen--it becomes easy to forgive past plagiarism if someone later discovers their own voice. And he's just beginning still, so I'm not ready to totally condemn him. The leather-backed buttons that Wooster did in that collab were less forgiveable, though...

Anyway--buy ED instead, she's still fairly reasonable in terms of pricing.

In this whole discussion there is a Lot of things to consider and i think some of it is missing from the whole discussion.

First off, i care not what a brand sells its items for, as brands are completely free to make whatever price they want. Also bear in mind that the prices in the stores ARE NOT what the brand gets for its products. Stores have their markups and what the markup is is based on the relationship that is established between the brands and the stores so its always different for everyone.


Harden is a completely different brand from MA+ operating on a completely different system. they may sell in the same stores and appeal to the sale clients but the company structures are very different
A lot of MA+ fabrics are sources in places like Japan and him having to pay duties and import taxes. from my understanding Harden sources almost everything in England/ Scotland.

Another thing to consider is that all of PH garments are made entirely by machine. A significant portion of MA+ garments are made by hand or in the very least have a lot of hand finishing which requires a different type of skill set
One can decrease price with an increase in volume if they are doing a full machine setup. If one is making clothes by hand or at least doing some aspects of it by hand, it is very difficult to reduce production cost because of the human element involved.

That bein g said I am simply stating all of this as an observer, being (partly) ignorant of the full scope of operation of both brands, which is none of my business anyways, but just giving things to consider when discussing these topics

[Chinorlz]

It is unfortunate that some of the most interesting designers right now such as Taichi Murakami and Deepti (who both have big focus on materials research & development along with construction techniques) don't have much internet presence. Murakami doesn't seem to outright shun online coverage so you can still read a bit about the designs, approaches and concepts whereas Deepti is not so easy.

If I see another "new designer" doing the same thing, with more derivative and uninspired "brooding" "dark" clothing I'm pretty much going to lose total faith in the future of the garment design world.

[Faust]

Don't worry, a Deepti profile coming to SZ magazine soon(ish). With Taichi - and I'm speculating - it could be a Japanese thing, a shyness in presenting in English-language media and not really a deliberate attempt at obscurity.

[allurahosain]

The zippers in both of my BBS pants are terrible..Aesthetically I love the way they look..they are slender, matte silver (why isn't anyone doing matte black zippers on black clothes btw???), but the BBS zippers are almost impossible to get up and down. I'm a female..don't know if the menswear has different zippers. Also, the ones in the pants I'm referring to are at the fly and set at a diagonal, so perhaps this contributes.

[unwashed]

designer wear is form over function

[Resonkuken]

Both pants I have come with buttons, not a zipper, fortunately. However my devoa pants do have a diagonal zipper but I´ve never had a problem. Looks kinda cool actually.

[DudleyGray]

The zippers in both of my BBS pants are terrible..Aesthetically I love the way they look..they are slender, matte silver (why isn't anyone doing matte black zippers on black clothes btw???), but the BBS zippers are almost impossible to get up and down. I'm a female..don't know if the menswear has different zippers. Also, the ones in the pants I'm referring to are at the fly and set at a diagonal, so perhaps this contributes.

Pencil or crayon the zipper teeth, maybe?

http://ask.metafilter.com/17737/Whats-the-best-lube-for-zippers

[mikko]

The zippers in both of my BBS pants are terrible..Aesthetically I love the way they look..they are slender, matte silver (why isn't anyone doing matte black zippers on black clothes btw???), but the BBS zippers are almost impossible to get up and down. I'm a female..don't know if the menswear has different zippers. Also, the ones in the pants I'm referring to are at the fly and set at a diagonal, so perhaps this contributes.

Yes, even the "top of the line" lamb fur COAT2 I have from Structurism has the shittiest zipper...

[gregor]

The zippers in both of my BBS pants are terrible..Aesthetically I love the way they look..they are slender, matte silver (why isn't anyone doing matte black zippers on black clothes btw???), but the BBS zippers are almost impossible to get up and down. I'm a female..don't know if the menswear has different zippers. Also, the ones in the pants I'm referring to are at the fly and set at a diagonal, so perhaps this contributes.

it's the same in menswear in my experience; my nicolas andreas taralis jacket has really shitty hardware, honestly.

it's definitely made to look nicer than it functions.

[Chinorlz]

Don't worry, a Deepti profile coming to SZ magazine soon(ish). With Taichi - and I'm speculating - it could be a Japanese thing, a shyness in presenting in English-language media and not really a deliberate attempt at obscurity.

Very cool! Looking forward to the Deepti profile!

I agree, I don't think Taichi is purposefully staying away from the internet at all... just a lack of in-depth western coverage on his works. Really beautiful stuff though with clearly evident fabric and construction R&D and a nice expansion into a line of accessories this season that match his personal style as well as the clothes.

[newp]

I wish some stores had a backup for main staff to answer clients' emails while main staff is in Paris, especially if their sales of this designer you ask a question about are done through email only.
Waiting for an answer for 12 days is frustrating.

[TriggerDiscipline]

I wish some stores had a backup for main staff to answer clients' emails while main staff is in Paris, especially if their sales of this designer you ask a question about are done through email only.
Waiting for an answer for 12 days is frustrating.

sounds like ink bbs

[newp]

sounds like ink bbs

Jackpot!