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The problem with Tom's Shoes and other "noble" enterprises

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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37849

    The problem with Tom's Shoes and other "noble" enterprises

    I only wish that the author addressed another key point, that initiatives like this not only assuage hipster guilt, but that relying on handouts also prevents development of local industries.

    From the Business of Fashion


    LOS ANGELES, United States — In recent years, a wide range of businesses have sought to replicate the “one for one” model made famous by Toms Shoes, the Santa Monica, California-based company founded by social entrepreneur Blake Mycoskie after he was inspired by a trip to a poor village in Argentina, where children lacked adequate footwear. The company, which gives away one pair of shoes to a needy child for each pair of shoes it sells and whose signature product is inspired by the Argentinian alpargata, has been highly successful, both in making a name for itself and generating estimated annual revenues of over $250 million.
    The company — currently up for sale — has attracted interest from a range of strategic and private equity buyers. And, according to a recent report in The Financial Times, Bain Capital and Apax are preparing to make final bids, valuing the company at between $600 million and $700 million.
    But my feelings about Toms changed after I first mentioned the company to friends from Argentina. I thought that they, of all people, would love the company. But they despise Toms. They feel humiliated and violated by the company, which, they suggest, is merely using their country. In fact, one of my Argentinian friends said he would scream if he saw another picture of a white guy surrounded by appreciative brown kids.
    No single company is responsible for the morals of the market. But the degree to which Toms has been successful reveals something about the psychology of its customers, who respond positively to the opportunity to be someone’s saviour. To me, this all feels familiar: benevolent people from the affluent world travelling to underdeveloped lands and offering them help and a path to modernity? Indeed, it smacks of imperialism, something we now see as disgusting, but which was once considered a noble social enterprise — “the white man’s burden,” as Rudyard Kipling put it.
    Today, the world is a very different place, of course, but major inequalities remain. In this context, the reason Toms has been so popular is because it solves a real problem – just not for the kids without shoes. Toms actually assuages the guilt of those in the wealthy world who buy its products. More than anything, the company’s model offers relatively affluent consumers the opportunity to feel like they are helping others, while, in actuality, they are shopping for themselves.
    Not having proper shoes has serious consequences for the children who face this problem every day. But make no mistake. Donations like these do little to address the root causes of poverty and may actually cause harm by reducing demand for locally produced goods.
    Yes, the children get their shoes. But at its root, the “one to one” model is a piece of marketing that actually depends upon the persistence of poverty.
    But the ultimate irony is that companies like Toms commit the very crime they are trying to erase, taking a paternalistic stance towards the societies they are supposed to be helping.
    Grant van Sant is a brand strategist and founder of The Acme Agency.
    The views expressed in Op-Ed pieces are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of The Business of Fashion.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine
  • mrbeuys
    Senior Member
    • May 2008
    • 2313

    #2
    Originally posted by Faust View Post
    I only wish that the author addressed another key point, that initiatives like this not only assuage hipster guilt, but that relying on handouts also prevents development of local industries.
    He did mention it:
    "Donations like these do little to address the root causes of poverty and may actually cause harm by reducing demand for locally produced goods."

    I totally get his views, but can't help but think that at some point this wasn't about marketing but about actually helping kids and someone doing it in the most straightforward way by making one thing better. Of course in the long run, this model entirely depends on persisting poverty, but it would be easy to tweak it into establishing and encouraging local industries. After all, it's about money - whether it's a shoe or helping build a factory and sending lasts and help. And let's not kid ourselves, poverty isn't going anywhere in a hurry anyway.
    Last edited by mrbeuys; 08-11-2014, 09:11 AM.
    Hi. I like your necklace. - It's actually a rape whistle, but the whistle part fell off.

    Comment

    • Faust
      kitsch killer
      • Sep 2006
      • 37849

      #3
      Yes, I just wish he would elaborate on it, as it's an area that needs highlighting.

      I hope this was a misguided attempt at doing good and not a clever marketing ploy. The sale of the company suggests the latter, I'm afraid.
      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

      Comment

      • LelandJ
        Banned
        • Apr 2014
        • 200

        #4
        This is pretty much all they listed on their site about manufacturing practices:

        On an annual basis, we require our direct suppliers to certify that the materials incorporated into our products are procured in accordance with all applicable laws in the countries they do business in, including laws regarding slavery and human trafficking. We also clearly define appropriate business practices for our employees and hold them accountable for complying with our policies, including the prevention of slavery and human trafficking within our supply chain.
        So long as they pay Chinese minimum wage then it's not slavery by legal definition. Perhaps sweatshop workers are happier to know half the shoes they make are going to others in poverty? (horrible rhetorical question, sadly some posters here would actually consider it a "positive") Would be ironic if they're given higher production demands making their workloads even more demoralizing.

        Comment

        • apathy!
          Senior Member
          • Jan 2014
          • 393

          #5
          Originally posted by Faust View Post
          I only wish that the author addressed another key point, that initiatives like this not only assuage hipster guilt, but that relying on handouts also prevents development of local industries.
          agreed. That's virtually the only interesting point brought up in the article and it's skimmed over.

          edit: would be nice to see the money put into local shoe-maker companies in Argentina but maybe i'm doing white person day dreams again.

          Comment

          • mrbeuys
            Senior Member
            • May 2008
            • 2313

            #6
            Originally posted by Faust View Post
            Yes, I just wish he would elaborate on it, as it's an area that needs highlighting.
            True

            Originally posted by Faust View Post
            I hope this was a misguided attempt at doing good and not a clever marketing ploy. The sale of the company suggests the latter, I'm afraid.
            Man, I may be a total dreamer, but TOM's been going for 8 years. I would think if he had just wanted to flip the company he would have maybe done it earlier? And if he gets $ 600 mil for it, maybe he will donate 15% to charity... [/NAIVE]
            Hi. I like your necklace. - It's actually a rape whistle, but the whistle part fell off.

            Comment

            • Chinorlz
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 6422

              #7
              Maybe I'm too optimistic and like to see the good in some things, but I've liked the idea of one for one. There is no "perfect" way to donate and if the donation is coming from a white man, someone will find fault with it.

              If you give money, people will say its wrong, if you give clothing/shoes, people will say you're hurting the local economy. You can't win.

              Certainly one way of looking at it is that it is a "marketing ploy." In a way it definitely is used as part of their business model and a big part of why people purchase their goods, but at the same time kids who previously didn't have shoes in their country now do.

              Then comes the persistent issue of local wages that will never be resolved. People love to rant against 3rd world countries where reports are that workers get " $0.15 per hour" a day but then love touring the place and showing epic meals and saying "and it only cost me $3!." I don't think you can expect a company to disrupt another nation's salary/wages system (at least not significantly... short of a few major institutions out there). The situation is just too complex to think it would be as easy as suddenly offering wages grossly exceeding local status quo.

              Complex issue, and the Toms story has been written up in this light more than once. To me, at least they're doing SOMETHING whereas most other companies don't do anything so props for that.
              www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

              Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

              Comment

              • Dorje
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2013
                • 284

                #8
                My thought are about the same as Chinorlz just posted.

                Comment

                • Shucks
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2010
                  • 3104

                  #9
                  one way to avoid coming across as a neo-colonialist asshole corporation, is to ASK a local populace what they need, rather than tell them...

                  instead of giving away shoes like some marketing-savvy 19th century missionary, how about providing some actually needed resources to the locals (they can tell you what they need, given half a chance) and then NOT using it as a ploy to push ugly-ass footwear on the rest of us.

                  fuck TOMS.

                  Comment

                  • zamb
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2006
                    • 5834

                    #10
                    Well there is no reason to think that we have to have a purist model where one cannot use donating to charity or doing good as a marketing ploy....... I have no problem with that

                    Also, since I am from (the poorer parts) of a third world country and now living in the US with some level of success, I would like to shed some light on the prevailing discussion on the issue of wages.
                    Yes, more needs to be done in terms of increasing wages for workers in these countries, but I would not be so quick to knock these factories and go as far as to say boycott companies giving them business. Here are my reasons and this is coming from firsthand knowledge.

                    I have many friends today who are lawyers, doctors, some of the most successful young minds in Jamaica and even the US today. Their mothers (and sometimes fathers) were factory workers earning small wages in garment factories. They knew this money was never going to be enough to eradicate their poverty, but they worked and invested in the lives of their children. These children went on to become successful professionals and in a single generation they were able to elevate the quality of life of their families. This would not have been possible without these Jobs.

                    The second thing I saw it do, is that it gave hope and a spirit of community to people who otherwise did not have any. They had a Job, they got up early and they had a place where they could be productive, interact with other people who were also being productive rather than sitting at home in their poverty with nothing to do.

                    A significant factor in this that I bore witness to was when the factories were in Jamaica CRIME WAS SIGNIFICANTLY DOWN. The young men who had just left school had a place where they could get a job work and not be bought into idleness, laziness and gangs.
                    There was a clear path to some level of professional pursuit after you left high school even if it was for a small pittance. Not all of them worked on the factory floor. some who were good at accounting, and advanced academics were able to work in human resources administration etc.

                    Another thing to consider was that a whole slew of small businesses were developed to cater to the needs of this low wage workforce

                    When the factories closed it devastated the local industries that catered to this working force, crime went up and the country slowly moved from one that was predominantly a productive/ export economy to one that was a service/ import economy with increased crime............

                    Yes there are problems to be solved in these countries with better paying jobs, higher levels of education, discipline and attitude towards productivity, but these issues are not as simple as we would like, or can they be solved by simply boycotting companies who are producing in questionably factories
                    Last edited by zamb; 08-11-2014, 11:25 AM.
                    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                    .................................................. .......................


                    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                    Comment

                    • zamb
                      Senior Member
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 5834

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Shucks View Post
                      one way to avoid coming across as a neo-colonialist asshole corporation, is to ASK a local populace what they need, rather than tell them...

                      instead of giving away shoes like some marketing-savvy 19th century missionary, how about providing some actually needed resources to the locals (they can tell you what they need, given half a chance) and then NOT using it as a ploy to push ugly-ass footwear on the rest of us.

                      fuck TOMS.
                      My friend, it is not a SIMPLE at that. i can tell you from experience, some people DON'T KNOW what they need, nor are they always receptive to what is good for them.

                      And let me make it clear I dont know who/ what TOMS is, nor do i care. What i do know is that we can always be Skeptical of the good intentions of others if we want to find reasons to be.
                      I am not against companies being philanthropic and using that as a marketing ploy. Nor should we be upset if someone who is helping, decides what kind of help they want to give rather than asking those in need what kind of help they want.........in either case its better than some who give no help at all
                      “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                      .................................................. .......................


                      Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                      Comment

                      • Faust
                        kitsch killer
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 37849

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Chinorlz View Post
                        Maybe I'm too optimistic and like to see the good in some things, but I've liked the idea of one for one. There is no "perfect" way to donate and if the donation is coming from a white man, someone will find fault with it.

                        If you give money, people will say its wrong, if you give clothing/shoes, people will say you're hurting the local economy. You can't win.

                        Certainly one way of looking at it is that it is a "marketing ploy." In a way it definitely is used as part of their business model and a big part of why people purchase their goods, but at the same time kids who previously didn't have shoes in their country now do.

                        Then comes the persistent issue of local wages that will never be resolved. People love to rant against 3rd world countries where reports are that workers get " $0.15 per hour" a day but then love touring the place and showing epic meals and saying "and it only cost me $3!." I don't think you can expect a company to disrupt another nation's salary/wages system (at least not significantly... short of a few major institutions out there). The situation is just too complex to think it would be as easy as suddenly offering wages grossly exceeding local status quo.

                        Complex issue, and the Toms story has been written up in this light more than once. To me, at least they're doing SOMETHING whereas most other companies don't do anything so props for that.
                        Correct as usual, Albert. No NGOs, charities, Peace Corps, and other do-gooders will solve third world problems, albeit in a piece-meal fashion and with a lot of detriment. Only political change on a mass scale will solve anything, and it will be up to world governments with REAL power to do something. Yes, something is better than nothing. But we don't have to think this way and instead these resources could be channeled to lobby governments to do something lasting.

                        This was a fantastic New Yorker article on the trouble with charities.

                        And I do think we should question companies like Tom's. If they are indeed giving these men fish instead of teaching them how to fish, this is a real detriment, and in this case they are doing more harm than good while raking in serious profit. I don't think it's irresponsible to suspect ulterior motive hiding behind an ostensibly good one.
                        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                        Comment

                        • Dorje
                          Senior Member
                          • Oct 2013
                          • 284

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Faust View Post
                          Correct as usual, Albert. No NGOs, charities, Peace Corps, and other do-gooders will solve third world problems, albeit in a piece-meal fashion and with a lot of detriment. Only political change on a mass scale will solve anything, and it will be up to world governments with REAL power to do something. Yes, something is better than nothing. But we don't have to think this way and instead these resources could be channeled to lobby governments to do something lasting.

                          This was a fantastic New Yorker article on the trouble with charities.

                          And I do think we should question companies like Tom's. If they are indeed giving these men fish instead of teaching them how to fish, this is a real detriment, and in this case they are doing more harm than good while raking in serious profit. I don't think it's irresponsible to suspect ulterior motive hiding behind an ostensibly good one.

                          And I think your last sentence is what it really comes down to. I would not presume that Tom's is trying to make money while knowing all along they are doing harm. If they are, then yes, I would judge that as bad.

                          Our actions are never going to be perfect as we are human beings and we cannot always predict or control the outcome of our actions. What is most important is the intent behind the action.

                          Comment

                          • Ahimsa
                            Vegan Police
                            • Sep 2011
                            • 1878

                            #14
                            Faust - My girlfriend currently has German couch surfers at her place, and one of them happens to work in garment worker labor rights.

                            One of the interesting things he told me about Bangladesh is that it is indeed very political. Most of the country's exports are garments, something like 85% maybe, and in one way or another a politician's money is largely coming from the garment industry. So if their friend, brother, or cousin has questionable factories, they will make sure they are protected. So it is extremely tied with politics, not unlike the U.S. Thus change cannot occur without a big change in the political system as you mentioned.
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                            • Chinorlz
                              Senior Member
                              • Sep 2006
                              • 6422

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Faust View Post
                              And I do think we should question companies like Tom's. If they are indeed giving these men fish instead of teaching them how to fish, this is a real detriment, and in this case they are doing more harm than good while raking in serious profit. I don't think it's irresponsible to suspect ulterior motive hiding behind an ostensibly good one.
                              I'll definitely check out the article!

                              I like this last paragraph of yours. Indeed contributing to local economy is more beneficial than giving handouts. Zam weighed in on this with personal/1sthand experience.

                              Great discussion and awesome to see people with different experiences and backgrounds offer up their perspective. Definitely not a clean-cut issue but perhaps somehow there is a way to balance profitable/sustainable business with positive impact in another location that isn't so time-consuming/cost impermissive. Something to mull over during late nights!
                              www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                              Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

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