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  • aussy
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2011
    • 555

    #16
    Originally posted by Shucks View Post
    could you clarify a bit where/what you mean by this? i'm not sure i see it really that way, but maybe i'm missing something...?
    I choose the wrong and too few words to express this thought.

    I'd say its more recently started to get 'noisy' with all the Stealthprojekt brands popping up, but certainly not flooded as I wrote before. In a community with such focused taste, its all too easy to draw connections between brands and dismiss them as derivative. Though sometimes it just is (A New Cross, Vlades, etc). In my mind, even work that I view as genuine (Cedric Jacquemyn, Jan Jan Van Essche) has yet to root itself in this community because the real estate it would occupy has already been bought up. So, those brands too float amidst the noise.

    Why are Damir's collections still being posted? Why was there a half page long discussion on Rick's watersnake?

    Comment

    • ian+
      Senior Member
      • Dec 2011
      • 746

      #17
      Originally posted by aussy View Post
      Why are Damir's collections still being posted? Why was there a half page long discussion on Rick's watersnake?
      As a frequent poster of runaway collections, I intend to spark a discussion. I feel there is room for well stated opinions even on collections that do not represent the style zeitgeist concept. This is why I think Damir Doma, Dior Homme, Givenchy, Lanvin, SLP, etc. should be posted.
      ...bombing the bass, blasting the beat

      Comment

      • ES3K
        Senior Member
        • Oct 2008
        • 530

        #18
        Thanks for the article, a very nice read (more entertaining than the shows -- same with Tim Blanks reviews where I always wonder where does he get all this analogies from) and it seconds my thoughts about the season. Well, apart from Rick. I don't get the enthusiasm when he's just doing some variation of a classic military jacket (we've had this before with the bomber), accompanied by some PR gibberish which sounds like the BMW marketing department did write it for him.

        My personal highlight was, once again, Haider -- especially what SZ did post on IG:
        #haiderackermann #SS16 #menswear #Paris. Photo by #eugenerabkin

        But I would never wear it...

        I think fashion is stuck. We've seen it all. There are no innovations, apart from awkward shapes no one wants to be seen in. To me, the business part and backstage circus is what's left to be interesting about fashion (industry) -- like Formula 1, where the races are boring but what's going on the business side is interesting.

        Comment

        • aya1293
          Junior Member
          • Apr 2013
          • 22

          #19
          My opinion may not mean much as I haven't attended the shows or the showroom, but I loved the Julius collection best this season. A few years back, Rick used to be my favourite (he's what got me into this spectrum of fashion actually) but recently, I just don't tend to like his recent collections lately..

          My opinion may differ as a woman who wears mens clothes frequently, but I like the change of the structured blazers etc. to the drapey jumpsuits and outwear etc.

          Oh and the Boris electric blue!

          Comment

          • Faust
            kitsch killer
            • Sep 2006
            • 37852

            #20
            Originally posted by ian+ View Post
            As a frequent poster of runaway collections, I intend to spark a discussion. I feel there is room for well stated opinions even on collections that do not represent the style zeitgeist concept. This is why I think Damir Doma, Dior Homme, Givenchy, Lanvin, SLP, etc. should be posted.
            Couldn't agree more and thank you for your contributions
            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

            Comment

            • Faust
              kitsch killer
              • Sep 2006
              • 37852

              #21
              Originally posted by ES3K View Post
              Thanks for the article, a very nice read (more entertaining than the shows -- same with Tim Blanks reviews where I always wonder where does he get all this analogies from) and it seconds my thoughts about the season. Well, apart from Rick. I don't get the enthusiasm when he's just doing some variation of a classic military jacket (we've had this before with the bomber), accompanied by some PR gibberish which sounds like the BMW marketing department did write it for him.

              My personal highlight was, once again, Haider -- especially what SZ did post on IG:
              #haiderackermann #SS16 #menswear #Paris. Photo by #eugenerabkin

              But I would never wear it...

              I think fashion is stuck. We've seen it all. There are no innovations, apart from awkward shapes no one wants to be seen in. To me, the business part and backstage circus is what's left to be interesting about fashion (industry) -- like Formula 1, where the races are boring but what's going on the business side is interesting.
              Thanks! Tim is wonderful, but he's also in a privileged position of having backstage access to all designers.
              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

              Comment

              • aussy
                Senior Member
                • Jul 2011
                • 555

                #22
                Originally posted by ian+ View Post
                As a frequent poster of runaway collections, I intend to spark a discussion. I feel there is room for well stated opinions even on collections that do not represent the style zeitgeist concept. This is why I think Damir Doma, Dior Homme, Givenchy, Lanvin, SLP, etc. should be posted.
                I agree with the sentiment, but this rarely happens in practice. The comments in the latest SLP and DD threads say and contribute as little as the collections themselves. Damir used to be good, SLP looks like topshop, the end.

                I'm starting to sound real bitter so I'll stop there!

                Comment

                • ian+
                  Senior Member
                  • Dec 2011
                  • 746

                  #23
                  Originally posted by aussy View Post
                  I agree with the sentiment, but this rarely happens in practice. The comments in the latest SLP and DD threads say and contribute as little as the collections themselves. Damir used to be good, SLP looks like topshop, the end.

                  I'm starting to sound real bitter so I'll stop there!
                  To me this is not a collection related problem. The real problem is the general lack of participation in the seasonal collections sub forum, even in mainstream threads like Rick Owens.
                  ...bombing the bass, blasting the beat

                  Comment

                  • Faust
                    kitsch killer
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 37852

                    #24
                    Didn't know where to put these, but here are a bunch of photos I took during the men's fashion week - Haider, Rick, BBS, Julius, and Ann.



                    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                    Comment

                    • unwashed
                      Senior Member
                      • Dec 2008
                      • 694

                      #25
                      No interest for The Viridi Anne anymore?? I can't even seem to find images online apart from a facebook site with 5 BW images....
                      Grailed link

                      Comment

                      • Faust
                        kitsch killer
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 37852

                        #26
                        I don't even know where their showroom is. Sometimes working with Japanese is like trying swimming upstream.
                        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                        Comment

                        • Arkady
                          Senior Member
                          • Apr 2011
                          • 957

                          #27
                          Originally posted by fit magna caedes
                          Oh yeah, Y project was seriously bad (again). Ugly, ugly, ugly.

                          I stopped buying L&F (except some older season stuff) but I heard that the recent stuff had improved again. Anyone confirm that?
                          Yeah I have a few things, the linen zip jacket from I wanna say S/S 15 is quite lovely but I wouldn't pay anywhere near retail for it. To me the materials are often good but the cuts are pretty questionable, I haven't had any quality issues though.

                          Comment

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