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Rick Owens Mens FW 12

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  • I'm happy he brings something new, and I appreciate his affinity for the bizarre and monumental. I don't see this as a departure from his style at all. It's just another angle to it. Like he says, it's already kind of there.

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    • Dane
      HAMMERTIME
      • Feb 2011
      • 3252

      i traded my LUC jeans + Julius belt + Neil Barrett jeans for a blamain biker jeans

      Comment

      • between
        Member
        • Oct 2011
        • 70

        ^ thanks for that.


        At Men’s Fashion Shows, A Mix of Aspiration and Powerful Intrigue
        By CATHY HORYN

        The movies often keep fashion designers in duds, as we saw at Miuccia Prada’s fall men’s show in Milan and a few days later at Rick Owens in Paris. But these designers approach the imagery very differently.

        [...]

        I was also intrigued by Rick Owens’s comment that he was inspired by Fred Astaire to make small-waist trousers with a bit of fullness in the hips and slim legs. When I was watching the show, I thought of Astaire, with his magical long legs — well, not so long in reality. A lot of designers over the years have been influenced by Astaire and other style icons, but usually their stuff is embarrassingly literal. Mr. Owens made sure his trousers, as well as his jackets and coats, would look sane on the streets.

        He accomplishes a lot here. There’s a note of formality (without the dust) and that elongated silhouette that designers like at the moment. Above all, you can imagine a young man wearing those pants, with sneakers, and being stopped by strangers who want the look for themselves. That’s aspiration.
        (from nytimes.com)

        Comment

        • cjbreed
          Senior Member
          • Feb 2009
          • 2712

          well i have gone thru the pics and videos about 50 times now and i think i do like it better than i did at first. like others have said, the pants will look much better with the zoot suit bit well hidden. the tailored jackets, and outerwear are pretty cool. they do have a rick by raf vibe but more rick than raf. and they are something i can actually wear. i am out on the footwear tho. i hate the chuck-alikes. and the uncircumcised leather jackets are awful.

          i dunno. i think i can dig it. kind of a small collection on display here tho, no?
          dying and coming back gives you considerable perspective

          Comment


          • Originally posted by cjbreed View Post
            and the uncircumcised leather jackets are awful.
            does this analogy suggest that peoples heads are are penis heads? gross...


            I wonder when he's going to grow tired of the asymetric zip. it never looks good open. and quite often, if you look past that, there's not a whole lot of design going on with the mens jackets. I watched the womens collection from stag and wished he would give us shapes like that for men. i'd go completely broke, but it would be worth it.

            Comment

            • casem
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 2590

              I prefer elegance to gym clothes, so I'm quite happy with this direction for rick. I never thought I'd see white dress shirts from him, but the ascot kinda scarf thing is neat, definitely something I'll be looking for in stores. A lot of Rick's recent interests are here, subversive tailoring, architectural shapes, a kind of edgy androgyny. I do think the collection is maybe a little too tight however. Compared to some of his other collections this seems to be lacking a bit in richness of ideas. It's like he's still in the R&D phase of this turn in his design and not quite ready to blow us away.
              music

              Comment

              • birdytg
                Senior Member
                • Feb 2010
                • 253

                Usual Rick proportions inverted, find the idea interesting but the way a bit cheap...fashion needs at least a bit of tailoring knowledge in addition to ideas but i must recognize Rick never pretends to be a "couturier".
                By the past he has been the one who invented a new style...not sure he has yet found the way to gamble once more...

                But, for a while, seeing the show live in, made me having fun and liking it... but not enough to be convinced to buy from the new collection yet!
                http://www.mypixeldiary.com
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                Comment

                • mrbeuys
                  Senior Member
                  • May 2008
                  • 2313

                  Show video now up on owenscorp
                  Hi. I like your necklace. - It's actually a rape whistle, but the whistle part fell off.

                  Comment

                  • theconsumer
                    Senior Member
                    • Feb 2009
                    • 139

                    Well, nothing fundamentally wrong with asymmetry in zippers. Slightly asymmetric zip in Mollino or Stooges looks good open and closed. Julius also does them well, I just "deplore" other "superficial embellishments" on their jackets

                    As aside, it slightly bothers me is that if you want clean, modernist design, RO is about the only option. Newer Julius has this extra seam shit and BBS has dogtags on the back.

                    I agree that RO just rehashes the same jacket patterns every season (in increasingly more plastic looking leathers). He could at least make Scuba with Mollino sleeves or Mollino with different back, so Kunk would have more variety in his wardrobe

                    Crust was probably the best example of what you describe, infusion of womens shapes into man shapes. Personally, I found it quite inspired and restrained, more masculine than androgynous. Later stuff is just too obvious and nowhere that good looking.

                    After all, Samurai is just Mollino with different body ... Wish there was more focus on such exploration of his design space and quality than on uninspired efforts to reinvent himself and boldly explore the WUT teritory.

                    High waisted pants and Pugh patterns would be great as a small mutation. Here, they look like an epidemic.

                    Originally posted by Heirloom View Post

                    I wonder when he's going to grow tired of the asymetric zip. it never looks good open. and quite often, if you look past that, there's not a whole lot of design going on with the mens jackets. I watched the womens collection from stag and wished he would give us shapes like that for men. i'd go completely broke, but it would be worth it.

                    Comment

                    • mrbeuys
                      Senior Member
                      • May 2008
                      • 2313

                      Dazed Digital Review

                      When was the last time you saw a double-breasted jacket on a Rick Owens catwalk? It has literally never happened... until yesterday morning. This was Owens pushing things forward, looking at new shapes and forms. He did formal-wear a few seasons back, but for A/W12 - with one button DB jackets and high-waisted wool trousers - there was truly a new and exciting aesthetic presented. But in terms of colour, Owens stayed true to his faithful palette; black, white, grey and beige dominated in his Bercy venue.

                      The DB idea continued across jackets and coats, many of which came out in satin and layered over shirts with oversized and flowing collars. Cropped jackets boasted an almost architectural panelling and piping structure, offering the only graphic solution to a potential A/W wardrobe dilemma. Rick Owens' good old friend leather was a constant companion... oversized puffas, coats and gilets prevailed as his outerwear garments, while the high-waisted trouser look was only ever challenged a few times by the classic Rick Owens floor-length apron-over-trouser idea.

                      Rick Owens: Was it loud enough?
                      Dazed Digital: Yeah but I've been at your shows with louder volume - you could have gone up a notch...
                      Rick Owens: That's what I thought! The first mix we did was such an assault, it was chaotic and pan-sonic but it was so mathematically hard to mix that we ended up using this, which was kinda metronome.

                      DD: It worked really well with the collection anyway. What was your initial idea for the clothes?
                      Rick Owens: Fred Astaire. The high-waisted trousers and the kinda 30s grace that we had.

                      DD: The trouser shape was new to you!
                      Rick Owens: Yeah, I like volume around the crotch, I'm kinda doing the opposite to sex in a way. I've seen too many tight trousers. And I like how the gangs around L.A. wear stuff that completely refutes sexuality, they go for something more austere, it's about honour and not sex. I like that!

                      DD: The double-breasted jackets... it's not often you do that kind of jackets!
                      Rick Owens: I tried with more buttons but it turned out too traditional, but I like that kind of rigour, formality and protective feeling from them. But the buttons came because it turned it out in to a whole different story...


                      Youth and pop culture provocateurs since 1991. Fearless fashion, music, art, film, politics and ideas from today's bleeding edge. Declare Independence.
                      Hi. I like your necklace. - It's actually a rape whistle, but the whistle part fell off.

                      Comment

                      • Shucks
                        Senior Member
                        • Aug 2010
                        • 3104

                        Originally posted by mrbeuys View Post
                        Dazed Digital Review
                        DD: It worked really well with the collection anyway. What was your initial idea for the clothes?
                        Rick Owens: Fred Astaire. The high-waisted trousers and the kinda 30s grace that we had.

                        DD: The trouser shape was new to you!
                        Rick Owens: Yeah, I like volume around the crotch, I'm kinda doing the opposite to sex in a way. I've seen too many tight trousers. And I like how the gangs around L.A. wear stuff that completely refutes sexuality, they go for something more austere, it's about honour and not sex. I like that!

                        DD: The double-breasted jackets... it's not often you do that kind of jackets!
                        Rick Owens: I tried with more buttons but it turned out too traditional, but I like that kind of rigour, formality and protective feeling from them. But the buttons came because it turned it out in to a whole different story...
                        http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashionw...-menswear-aw12
                        heh, i love being right...

                        Comment

                        • kunk75
                          Banned
                          • May 2008
                          • 3364

                          except that i have a dbl breasted rick blazer from a few seasons ago. i have no complaints about the tailoring really, but while i have several rick blazers and love his pants typically, there are better tailors out there and he's done better tailoring than this himself.

                          Comment

                          • beardown
                            rekoner
                            • Feb 2009
                            • 1418

                            I really hope he isn't transitioning into this phase where he's embracing formality in an effort to drive people who don't want that into the Drkshdw brand because it almost feels that way after seeing this line. A Rick Owens zoot suit doesn't really interest me.

                            If that is the case, I certainly hope he can come up with some more options for footwear and more basic outerwear and present it from the diffusion line.
                            Originally posted by mizzar
                            Sorry for being kind of a dick to you.

                            Comment

                            • miserableman
                              Senior Member
                              • Dec 2009
                              • 321

                              ^ The footwear is like a constant afterthought, either he loves the shape of what he's already created and a simple tweak every season will suffice or he's incredibly lazy about it and can't be bothered.

                              He also seems fond of this design of jacket. The same shape has been in every collection since it was introduced(ss10?). It gets boring after a while, especially when the design isn't particually good in the first place imo(same applies to the current sneaker design).

                              Comment

                              • shah
                                Senior Member
                                • Jul 2009
                                • 512

                                lol

                                Comment

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