Duran Lantink’s Appointment to Gaultier Proves That Contemporary Fashion Is a Simulation

Today we woke up to the news that the up and coming designer Duran Lantink was appointed as the creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier. This completes his recent victory lap that began with sweeping a handful of fashion prizes, including the Andam award and the LVMH prize.

And while it is commendable that a young designer gets a crack at spearheading one of the most important brands in the history of contemporary fashion, it’s also worth taking a fresh look at what he actually makes. The artifacts that can be called garments in his oeuvre are pretty forgettable – there is no innovation there in terms of the silhouette, nor is there a strong discerning aesthetic statement. Lantink’s true strength lies in making outlandish, sculpted outfits that look good on Instagram. The look from his last collection that was shared the most was not a garment at all, but a sculpted male bust, worn on a female model. Things like this are designed to go viral in that look-at-this-silly-thing way. They are fashion as memes.