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  • municeps
    Junior Member
    • Nov 2010
    • 8

    Young British designers

    What do you think about up-and-coming British designers?

    I live in London and believe that here is a good place for a young designer to start out (with all the prestigious fashion schools and numerous sponsorship programmes) but personally, I'm not sure whether there's a true talent and creativity that the press are busy talking about. It almost seems like the hype is some act of patriotism!

    What are your opinions? Any talent spotting?
    Last edited by municeps; 12-27-2010, 11:54 AM.
  • SHYE_POSER
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2009
    • 1143

    #2
    Most of the so called "talent" that gets all the sponsorships, and press are shit. The BFC needs a good shake up! How many years are they gonna sponsor bloody henry fucking holland, and realize that his career should have ended with those slogan tees.
    A lot of talent gets lost amongst all the crap. For instance, Britain has a strong history in menswear, yet no sponsorships(or very very few) are available. Instead we get 1 measley day during LFW and its again the same designers showing year in year out.
    But there is some very talented designers in both fashion and jewellery that shall be making a few waves in the coming year.
    merz: your look has all the grace of george michael at the tail end of a coke binge.

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    • 123abc123
      Member
      • Aug 2010
      • 52

      #3
      "I am only going to cover Paris, because in my opinion New York and Milan are nothing to write home about, and London has been as underwhelming as it was overwhelming for F/W 05. Paris is truly a gem of creativity...."

      for me ever since mr. McQueens death there has been nothing there.... and there probably won't be in a long time..... But compared to the guccis, pradas, etc. of Milan I much rather have london fashion week than Milan fashion.
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      "I know that I know nothing"

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      • SHYE_POSER
        Senior Member
        • Mar 2009
        • 1143

        #4
        I think Gareth, if he continues to go the way he has, then he can possibly fall in to that same bracket. Since then there has been no one that exciting! There have been a few with potential, like jean pierre breganza, but the dude is too inconsistent. Mark Fast is nor here nor there,Osman does beautiful gowns but nothing astonishing.I just hope Hussein stops diddling at puma and gets back to his conceptual best. But then saying that, all the best brit designers show in Paris eventually anyway. It shows the state of LFW. Instead of pushing new raw talent on the official schedule, we still have people like paul costelloe showing or john rocha showing! You must understand that if your not s*cking or f*cking some one from dazed/iD/Another then thereis little chance of true talent getting any exposure. All the designers that they are featuring are ,in many ways rather tacky.
        merz: your look has all the grace of george michael at the tail end of a coke binge.

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        • Faust
          kitsch killer
          • Sep 2006
          • 37852

          #5
          Municeps, I find it strange that you start a what could be promising thread without mentioning any names. Are there any that you like? Why?
          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

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          • Faust
            kitsch killer
            • Sep 2006
            • 37852

            #6
            Originally posted by 123abc123 View Post
            "I am only going to cover Paris, because in my opinion New York and Milan are nothing to write home about, and London has been as underwhelming as it was overwhelming for F/W 05. Paris is truly a gem of creativity...."

            for me ever since mr. McQueens death there has been nothing there.... and there probably won't be in a long time..... But compared to the guccis, pradas, etc. of Milan I much rather have london fashion week than Milan fashion.
            Was it something I wrote? Sounds familiar.
            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

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            • Faust
              kitsch killer
              • Sep 2006
              • 37852

              #7
              Originally posted by SHYE_POSER View Post
              I think Gareth, if he continues to go the way he has, then he can possibly fall in to that same bracket. Since then there has been no one that exciting! There have been a few with potential, like jean pierre breganza, but the dude is too inconsistent. Mark Fast is nor here nor there,Osman does beautiful gowns but nothing astonishing.I just hope Hussein stops diddling at puma and gets back to his conceptual best. But then saying that, all the best brit designers show in Paris eventually anyway. It shows the state of LFW. Instead of pushing new raw talent on the official schedule, we still have people like paul costelloe showing or john rocha showing! You must understand that if your not s*cking or f*cking some one from dazed/iD/Another then thereis little chance of true talent getting any exposure. All the designers that they are featuring are ,in many ways rather tacky.
              Awesome!
              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

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              • syed
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2010
                • 564

                #8
                There is absolutely no support for young British designers, they tend to have better luck going abroad and finding a backer elsewhere! The fact that Gareth was blowing people away with his collections whilst still dyeing clothes in his bathtub and selling absolutely none of it strikes me as one heck of a problem. The only way people seem to get ahead is with support from the likes of Topshop or whatever, designing utter trash for the high street consumers and having to dilute their own personal vision.

                The whole sponsorship of LFW for younger designers by the high street is not the way it should be ideally, because that narrows creativity. Yes in the '90s people said that London was too theatrical and not economically viable, but heck the drama was amazing and many of the designers did bloody well! Now every time somebody interesting pops up, they have to change entirely to survive or disappear.

                I mean the likes of Carolyn Massey, Lou Dalton, Tim Soar, Omar Kashoura, etc., are interesting enough, and there is certainly a lot of talent to be found. Although personally none of them blow my mind, which I wish they would.
                "Lots of people who think they are into fashion are actually just into shopping"

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                • municeps
                  Junior Member
                  • Nov 2010
                  • 8

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Faust View Post
                  Municeps, I find it strange that you start a what could be promising thread without mentioning any names. Are there any that you like? Why?
                  The ones I find interesting at the moment are Mason Jung and Aitor Throup. Coincidentally, they've all graduated from RCA menswear and won awards at ITS competition. But both are not showing in LFW currently (Aitor showed once or twice before), and they seem to be choosing not to, than not being selected.

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                  • andrew
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2009
                    • 132

                    #10
                    I think the most interesting smaller scale designer in London at the moment is far and away Aminaka Wilmont especially AW10 and SS10, but i think Mary Katrantzou, Krystof Stroznya and Peter Pilotto are all good.

                    The real problem is that the BFC have to obtain sponsorship to pass on to designers so they are interested in people who generate press rather than sales. That Louise Gray gets constant sponsorship is a mystery to me though but at least its stupid fun; I find Tod Lynn's stuff practically offensive.
                    I'm interested to see what Jonathan Saunders will do now he is showing in London again as his stuff was always better before the move to New York and I'm sure i heard Preen were coming back to LFW but they aren't on the scedule so maybe i imagined it.

                    I also always like to see what Bora Aksu does, i dont always like it but i like the philosophy and I rememeber going for an interview their whilst i was at uni and it really impressing on me how nice a studio could be.

                    Comment

                    • zamb
                      Senior Member
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 5834

                      #11
                      on a side note...............why has it become an expected norm for designs to have to get sponsorships to stay afloat?
                      “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                      .................................................. .......................


                      Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

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                      • 123abc123
                        Member
                        • Aug 2010
                        • 52

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Faust View Post
                        Was it something I wrote? Sounds familiar.
                        yup, i'm quoting you'r blog . I have to say I have fallen for your posts they have (or at least I hope) evolved my taste in clothing. By the by what happened? Why did you stop posting so abruptly? Have you been writing somewhere else?
                        BLOG

                        "I know that I know nothing"

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                        • SHYE_POSER
                          Senior Member
                          • Mar 2009
                          • 1143

                          #13
                          I mean the likes of Carolyn Massey, Lou Dalton, Tim Soar, Omar Kashoura, etc.,

                          These guys cannot be considered young talent as they have been in the game for quite a while now. And they do not produce nothing of note or exciting. Omar Kashoura, nice bloke, but he has been trying for years. His stuff is ok, but its very obvious to see that he had worked for preen and unconditional! It is nothing to write home about. Actually all those that you mentioned above are bloody boring, and only show as they produce collabo lines for TOPMAN.

                          The only young designer that i thought was interesting from his first collection was James Long. It looked very promising, as did his second collection for ss, but then it all went to shit. Then we have Christopher Shannon, who is like Kim Jones and Moschino jeans circa 95 love child.
                          Load of pish!

                          I know the duo at Aminakawilmont personally and they have been getting stronger each season. The good thing with these guys is they listen to their customer. If a customer wants a certain style dress with a slightly longer hem, they do it. If the customer wants a top with long sleeves rather than short, they do it. For me this is what will make buyers come back to them.

                          Mary Katranzou has her thing going with her digital prints, but she needs to develop more to stand a chance of lasting. Even Felder and Felder, it may not be to everyones taste, but they are getting stronger each season. Some seasons have been hit and miss or downright horrible, but they are getting their shit together.

                          At the end of the day, there is no funding for young talent. Unlike in NY and Japan for instance. The BFC need a big fucking shake up and get some younger faces in there. Not these little scensters who roll with so called stylist from " " magazine. Real people with a real eye for talent and design, not just hype bullshit.

                          (sorry if my post seems aggressive.Its just that i feel very strongly about this, and have seen many talented peers fall by the side of the road, their hopes and dreams shattered by a stagnant British Fashion Council. So so so much talented people i have seen give up becuase the resources are not there or those who can launch them...i.e the press are not paying attention, because they do not hang with celeb models of celebs children i. the bloody Geldof sisters or Agyness Deyn.



                          killllllmmmmyyyyyssseeeelllllffff
                          merz: your look has all the grace of george michael at the tail end of a coke binge.

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                          • seenmy
                            Senior Member
                            • May 2009
                            • 430

                            #14
                            Originally posted by zamb View Post
                            on a side note...............why has it become an expected norm for designs to have to get sponsorships to stay afloat?
                            this for me is where one of the issues is, in my opinion (right or wrong) I feel many designers who are showing/attempting to show are coming to the stage lacking the skills/knowledge and or cash flow to produce a line they can sell at a realastic price, Im not suggesting they should be hitting topman price points but they have to find a balance where product and vision meets price, so many 'young designers' garments just lac the finish to be a saleable product,it might be fabric quality or finishing detail but often to me they lack something key in the product, which in turn means their garments have trouble selling and that means the buyers dont buy in or support. this leaves the circle in complete and a hole in the designers cash flow as essentially the collection stops at the show and not in the showroom.

                            I would love to see a better structure in the BFC where more focus was placed on supporting designers on a business side,introducing them to a set of quality factories and fabric mills opening doors with ykk etc to get the right finish's,this is the commitment the designers need to make their lines work for them and be able to support themselfs without constant hand outs its also hugely important for the industry that these designers can complete the circle and make a line that can enter in to the retail side.

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                            • SHYE_POSER
                              Senior Member
                              • Mar 2009
                              • 1143

                              #15
                              Originally posted by seenmy View Post

                              I would love to see a better structure in the BFC where more focus was placed on supporting designers on a business side,introducing them to a set of quality factories and fabric mills opening doors with ykk etc to get the right finish's,this is the commitment the designers need to make their lines work for them and be able to support themselfs without constant hand outs its also hugely important for the industry that these designers can complete the circle and make a line that can enter in to the retail side.
                              spot on
                              merz: your look has all the grace of george michael at the tail end of a coke binge.

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