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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    Long tshirts, short jackets?



    What do you think of the longer tshirts? JCreport claims that it's a microtrend, which I am not sure about. Personally, I like long tshirts, but not with short jackets. I like them to just peak out from under the jacket. Here is the article. http://beta.jcreport.com/48206

    The Longer They Come
    Global






    Ann Demeulemeester s/s 'o7






    Rick Ownes a/w '06-'07







    Attachment s/s '07







    Dior Homme s/s '07







    Patrick Soderstam s/s '06









    Menswear can be a narrow, constrictive genre. Despite
    accessorization, dandification, and an ongoing drive towards full-blown
    flamboyancy, what really matters at the core is the delicate balance of
    proportion, texture, and length. For men, evolutions and revolutions
    come on the order of the millimeter. Period.




    Take the current long t-shirt microtrend, for example. Paired with
    seriously short jackets and painfully slim trousers, long flowy tops
    make for a charming, haphazardly put together, challenging new look,
    all layers over layers and garments popping out from underneath others.
    The phenomenon initially emerged in fashion's darkest, edgiest corners,
    and has been strenuously fed ever since, with a healthy dose of rock
    insouciance and melancholia-tainted, angst-ridden androgyny. Ann
    Demeulemeester and Rick Owens
    are, without any doubt, the originators of this gritty boho wave. The
    gloomy Belgian and gloomier Los Angeles transplant have been
    championing the long tee in un-suspected times and in all its
    gossamer-thin and distressed glory, molding to skinny torsos under
    battered, poetically lived-in jackets and skeletal drainpipes tucked
    inside stompy boots, all of it in a muted palette of blacks,
    almost-blacks, and more blacks. Simultaneously in Japan, cultish
    in-the-know labels like Attachment, Diet Butcher Slim Skin, and Grime Effect
    made their stylish badge of honor of tattered, urban angularity, with
    distressed, long tops as a central ingredient in their delicious
    recipes for dressed-down luxe. Back in Europe, long tees have lately
    reached a zenith at Dior Homme,
    where Hedi Slimane proved once more his unique and clever ability to
    catch a whiff of the underground and serve it to the fashionable
    intelligentsia in the chicest way possible. Dior Homme's s/s '07
    collection is an ode to achingly young and dangerously thin fallen
    Icaruses — million dollar street urchins who wear pale, scoop-neck tees
    under minuscule metallic blousons, adding sashes here and there for a
    graphically slashed effect.




    For those who don't fall into the sharp dresser category, however,
    the long t-shirt flood also comes in a wholly different flavor: feisty,
    psychedelic, and relaxed. Think '80s Katherine Hamnett,
    early '90s W & LT, most of all, think ravers. Sole and fierce
    champion of this alternative take — and we’re not using these
    adjectives lightly — is Swedish wunderkind Patrick Soderstam. By
    matching hip-hop's baggy proportions with a resolutely futuristic
    agenda, Soderstam keeps perfecting, season in and season out and
    oblivious to fickle trends, what he calls a "mushroom" silhouette: a
    totally unisex combo of gown-like tees and super-tight leggings, or,
    alternatively, circular-cut humongous pants, splashed all over with
    garish patterns. Definitely for true fashion risk-takers and other
    genuinely forward thinkers.




    Achingly chic or gloriously careless, it seems, long tees are
    definitely here to stay, at least for longer than the usual fashionable
    nanosecond. Stay tuned.




    -Angelo Flaccavento


    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine
  • Fuuma
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 4050

    #2
    Re: Long tshirts, short jackets?

    [quote user="Faust"]

    What do you think of the longer tshirts? JCreport claims that it's a microtrend, which I am not sure about. Personally, I like long tshirts, but not with short jackets. I like them to just peak out from under the jacket. Here is the article. http://beta.jcreport.com/48206

    The Longer They Come
    Global



    Ann Demeulemeester s/s 'o7



    Rick Ownes a/w '06-'07




    Attachment s/s '07




    Dior Homme s/s '07




    Patrick Soderstam s/s '06




    Menswear can be a narrow, constrictive genre. Despite accessorization, dandification, and an ongoing drive towards full-blown flamboyancy, what really matters at the core is the delicate balance of proportion, texture, and length. For men, evolutions and revolutions come on the order of the millimeter. Period.



    Take the current long t-shirt microtrend, for example. Paired with seriously short jackets and painfully slim trousers, long flowy tops make for a charming, haphazardly put together, challenging new look, all layers over layers and garments popping out from underneath others. The phenomenon initially emerged in fashion's darkest, edgiest corners, and has been strenuously fed ever since, with a healthy dose of rock insouciance and melancholia-tainted, angst-ridden androgyny. Ann Demeulemeester and Rick Owens are, without any doubt, the originators of this gritty boho wave. The gloomy Belgian and gloomier Los Angeles transplant have been championing the long tee in un-suspected times and in all its gossamer-thin and distressed glory, molding to skinny torsos under battered, poetically lived-in jackets and skeletal drainpipes tucked inside stompy boots, all of it in a muted palette of blacks, almost-blacks, and more blacks. Simultaneously in Japan, cultish in-the-know labels like Attachment, Diet Butcher Slim Skin, and Grime Effect made their stylish badge of honor of tattered, urban angularity, with distressed, long tops as a central ingredient in their delicious recipes for dressed-down luxe. Back in Europe, long tees have lately reached a zenith at Dior Homme, where Hedi Slimane proved once more his unique and clever ability to catch a whiff of the underground and serve it to the fashionable intelligentsia in the chicest way possible. Dior Homme's s/s '07 collection is an ode to achingly young and dangerously thin fallen Icaruses — million dollar street urchins who wear pale, scoop-neck tees under minuscule metallic blousons, adding sashes here and there for a graphically slashed effect.



    For those who don't fall into the sharp dresser category, however, the long t-shirt flood also comes in a wholly different flavor: feisty, psychedelic, and relaxed. Think '80s Katherine Hamnett, early '90s W & LT, most of all, think ravers. Sole and fierce champion of this alternative take — and we’re not using these adjectives lightly — is Swedish wunderkind Patrick Soderstam. By matching hip-hop's baggy proportions with a resolutely futuristic agenda, Soderstam keeps perfecting, season in and season out and oblivious to fickle trends, what he calls a "mushroom" silhouette: a totally unisex combo of gown-like tees and super-tight leggings, or, alternatively, circular-cut humongous pants, splashed all over with garish patterns. Definitely for true fashion risk-takers and other genuinely forward thinkers.



    Achingly chic or gloriously careless, it seems, long tees are definitely here to stay, at least for longer than the usual fashionable nanosecond. Stay tuned.



    -Angelo Flaccavento



    [/quote]



    I tend to tackle the same idea in the opposite way by wearing short jackets with medium lenghts t-shirts, that way my legs don't appear to disappear completely. The whole idea of adding volume/drape to tees is quite appealing to me if done right but I don't think the added lenght works for everyone.

    Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
    http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

    Comment

    • sbw4224
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2006
      • 571

      #3
      Re: Long tshirts, short jackets?



      I was also skeptical of this idea. I feel that it only works
      with the right body proportions, because essentially a longer t-shirt
      is going to make your legs look shorter.



      I'm not a fan of the Rick Owen's example. I can't see that look being anything but sloppy. I think the Ann Demeulemeester and Dior Homme looks do it best with an open jacket and not too much of a longer tee.

      Comment

      • xcoldricex
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2006
        • 1347

        #4
        Re: Long tshirts, short jackets?



        i do like my tshirts a tad bit longer as it makes me look a bit slimmer (provided they not boxy), but i'm not that tall either so anything too long makes my legs look too short. so yeah, it really depends on the body type.



        i'm not sure if i'm a fan of the purposely short jacket/long shirt combo though. a normal jacket with a slightly elongated shirt works just fine.

        Comment

        • casem
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2006
          • 2590

          #5
          Re: Long tshirts, short jackets?

          I like this this look. Like everything it has to be done just right, I don't like it when the top is too big and the pants super skinny because it looks like you are wearing a dress with leggings, though I know a lot of fashionistas do it like this. I have a black corduory Helmut Lang jacket that hits just above the waist and most of my t-shirts are longer than that so I have been doing it for awhile. I might make more of a conscious effort to play around with it now though.

          I think Dior did it really well in the S/S 07 collection. I'm a big fan of this collection and I thought the long loose shirt was a clever way to play with the silhouette while still keeping Hedi's skinny aesthetic. Past collections have really brought attention to the tiny waists of the models with cummerbunds, short jackets, belts so I thought it was interesting that he would completely cover them up this time.

          Cloak also did a cool super long button up under a vest for S/S 06, I liked how it looked, but I bought the regular version of this shirt rather than the long one.

          I think whenever you play with proportion like this you have to make sure that it comes off as deliberate and chic. Most American men still wear sloppy oversized clothes so if you do an oversized silhouette you must do it in a fashionable way that doesn't just look ill-fitting.
          music

          Comment

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