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Carpe Diem, Label Under Construction, etc. FABRICS

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  • Beyond Coast
    Junior Member
    • Dec 2006
    • 2

    Carpe Diem, Label Under Construction, etc. FABRICS



    I have read some of your posts and i keep reading that brands like the ones in the Subject, and others like Carol Christian Poell, use only the finest fabrics. I have never seen any of these brands in person, and wonder if any of you can confirm that in fact these fabrics are nicer than other "hip" designers. Does anyone own any of these brands and can give any insight on the care label, the fibre make-up. Does anyone know where these fabrics are made or sourced by these designers? Also, do designers listed make jeans?



    bc

  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    #2
    Re: Carpe Diem, Label Under Construction, etc. FABRICS



    I'll try to answer to the best of my ability, although your last question makes me cringe, but just a tiny bit. Many of the fabrics these guys use are made in Italy by small traditional manufacturers. Lots of leathers for Carpe Diem come from a leather tannery in Tuscany called Guidi & Rosselini (they are being rebranded into Guidi with some heavy Japanese investment, as far as I understand). This tannery has been in business for over a hundred years and preserved leather tanning traditions. Label Under Construction uses lots of yarn from Scotland, where best wool and cashmere is produced. In addition, the fabrics often go through a lot of treatment (overdying, washing, burying in the soil), which sometimes takes months, and obviously contributes to the high cost.



    And no, they don't make jeans, except Carol Christian Poell. I have seen an LMaltieri denim jacket once.



    Welcome to SZ, btw.

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

    Comment

    • Beyond Coast
      Junior Member
      • Dec 2006
      • 2

      #3
      Re: Carpe Diem, Label Under Construction, etc. FABRICS



      Thanks for the info. Lol. Why does that question make you cringe? I really don't know why these designers don't make jeans. I have wondered that. Some of my favorite designers make jeans. It seams like they would certainly find a customer. I would love to see them make them. Are jeans not cool anymore? lol.



      bc

      Comment

      • Faust
        kitsch killer
        • Sep 2006
        • 37852

        #4
        Re: Carpe Diem, Label Under Construction, etc. FABRICS

        [quote user="Beyond Coast"]

        Thanks for the info. Lol. Why does that question make you cringe? I really don't know why these designers don't make jeans. I have wondered that. Some of my favorite designers make jeans. It seams like they would certainly find a customer. I would love to see them make them. Are jeans not cool anymore? lol.



        bc



        [/quote]



        It's just a knee-jerk reaction to what jeans have become (you know, the whole premium denim, designer jeans, eurotrash D&G kind of thing). I don't mind jeans myself.



        Some designers don't make jeans for that exact reason - they think it's a commerical cop-out. These days there is nothing easier than making $20 pair of jeans and selling them for $300 - there is nothing to it in terms of design. As a matter of fact I am upset that Ann Demeulemeester has done jeans
        for the past two seasons. I have a feeling she was strong-armed into
        it, but I don't know how much of an excuse that is. Now, to take denim as a fabric and makes something cool out of it - that's another story. I think Poell does it well.



        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

        Comment

        • Chinorlz
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2006
          • 6422

          #5
          Re: Carpe Diem, Label Under Construction, etc. FABRICS



          I'd like to source out similar fabrics to what Altieri uses/makes for his long sleeved shirts...



          it's been trickier than expected to find that type of fabric that won't unravel at cut edges!





          Anyone have any suggestions? I'm going to do a few shirt projects creating "linea" and "lmaltieri" long sleeved shirts based on photos and detailed measurements of my body.



          also gonna be doing an Aitor Throup pig bag as I bought MUCH more houndstooth fabric than I really needed to make the piglet scarf for my girlfriend :)

          www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

          Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

          Comment

          • Servo2000
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2006
            • 2183

            #6
            Re: Carpe Diem, Label Under Construction, etc. FABRICS

            [quote user="Chinorlz"]

            Anyone have any suggestions? I'm going to do a few shirt projects creating "linea" and "lmaltieri" long sleeved shirts based on photos and detailed measurements of my body.



            also gonna be doing an Aitor Throup pig bag as I bought MUCH more houndstooth fabric than I really needed to make the piglet scarf for my girlfriend :)



            [/quote]



            Impressive! Let us know how they go, I'd love to see your patterns for the Throup bag, as I'm finally going to be getting a sewing machine for Christmas, so hopefully soon I'll work up to that level.

            WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

            Comment

            • fashiondisaster
              Member
              • May 2011
              • 77

              #7
              Originally posted by Faust View Post
              I'll try to answer to the best of my ability, although your last question makes me cringe, but just a tiny bit. Many of the fabrics these guys use are made in Italy by small traditional manufacturers. Lots of leathers for Carpe Diem come from a leather tannery in Tuscany called Guidi & Rosselini (they are being rebranded into Guidi with some heavy Japanese investment, as far as I understand). This tannery has been in business for over a hundred years and preserved leather tanning traditions. Label Under Construction uses lots of yarn from Scotland, where best wool and cashmere is produced. In addition, the fabrics often go through a lot of treatment (overdying, washing, burying in the soil), which sometimes takes months, and obviously contributes to the high cost.



              And no, they don't make jeans, except Carol Christian Poell. I have seen an LMaltieri denim jacket once.



              Welcome to SZ, btw.

              Im sure that many brand : MA+ , Augusta,Forme d'espression, LUmen et Umbra...and similar buy the leather at Guidi tannery.Is a special and excellent tannery. Moreover the tannery Guidi..yes is true craete whit a Japanes partenr the brand shoes Guidi...using the same leather.
              SEEKING SELECTIVE REASERCH

              Comment

              • Faust
                kitsch killer
                • Sep 2006
                • 37852

                #8
                /\ Thank you for this insightful information. Who knew?! I only wrote a Guidi factory report a few months back.

                In all seriousness - it looks like you are genuinely trying, but please realize that we know a lot of this info. Please read these threads before you post.
                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                Comment

                • surver
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2007
                  • 638

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Faust View Post
                  [quote user="Beyond Coast"]

                  Thanks for the info. Lol. Why does that question make you cringe? I really don't know why these designers don't make jeans. I have wondered that. Some of my favorite designers make jeans. It seams like they would certainly find a customer. I would love to see them make them. Are jeans not cool anymore? lol.


                  bc


                  It's just a knee-jerk reaction to what jeans have become (you know, the whole premium denim, designer jeans, eurotrash D&G kind of thing). I don't mind jeans myself.


                  Some designers don't make jeans for that exact reason - they think it's a commerical cop-out. These days there is nothing easier than making $20 pair of jeans and selling them for $300 - there is nothing to it in terms of design. As a matter of fact I am upset that Ann Demeulemeester has done jeans
                  for the past two seasons. I have a feeling she was strong-armed into
                  it, but I don't know how much of an excuse that is. Now, to take denim as a fabric and makes something cool out of it - that's another story. I think Poell does it well.



                  [/quote]


                  Label Under Construction has done quite a few versions in denim over the past couple of seasons; as did m.a+ last season...

                  Comment

                  • zamb
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2006
                    • 5834

                    #10
                    I dont see the reason to be antagonistic towards Jeans............designing clothes is about expressive an aesthetic viewpoint and providing for the needs of the wearer. If jeans is a part of the wearers needs then so be it.

                    What I dislike i when its done by designers and there is no personal "design' touch to it.......
                    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                    .................................................. .......................


                    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                    Comment

                    • lowrey
                      ventiundici
                      • Dec 2006
                      • 8383

                      #11
                      probably worth noting that the discussion is from 5 years ago
                      "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

                      STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

                      Comment

                      • fashiondisaster
                        Member
                        • May 2011
                        • 77

                        #12
                        jeans - no jeans

                        I believe that brands that choose not to use the jeans because they think it is a fabric too cheap and very commercial, they really are the brands that have or want to be very commercial, but at the same time we turn our look of brands that have a lot of research and style.
                        Instead, those who fall within the true creators, ( for example Junya Watanabe in past colelction ) , do not care much about the choice of fabric for itself, but of all, air, taste, style of the collection, so if they see, hear, need the jeans, they use very simply.
                        FD.
                        SEEKING SELECTIVE REASERCH

                        Comment

                        • messenoire
                          Senior Member
                          • Nov 2009
                          • 1232

                          #13
                          the only jeans i've liked in recent memory have been from _7. i would like drkshdw without the treatments and different processes they are put through but i think with whatever they use for drkshdw denim the process significantly weakens the material and i've seen jeans blow out in a good 2 weeks of wear around the back pockets and crotch areas (RE: hogwash & mud cloth).
                          speaking of guidi i really did enjoy faust's photos from the tannery!

                          Comment

                          • Macro
                            Senior Member
                            • Apr 2008
                            • 351

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Faust View Post
                            As a matter of fact I am upset that Ann Demeulemeester has done jeans
                            for the past two seasons. I have a feeling she was strong-armed into
                            it, but I don't know how much of an excuse that is. Now, to take denim as a fabric and makes something cool out of it - that's another story. I think Poell does it well.



                            Ann has made jeans in the past. Everything from Blue Jeans to Cords. I have them. How do you not know this? I thought you trumped me in Ann knowledge!?

                            EDIT: choked on my own words.
                            Last edited by Macro; 05-21-2011, 11:14 AM.
                            every man has inside himself a parasitic being who is acting not at all to his advantage

                            Comment

                            • lowrey
                              ventiundici
                              • Dec 2006
                              • 8383

                              #15
                              Originally posted by lowrey View Post
                              probably worth noting that the discussion is from 5 years ago
                              ......
                              "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

                              STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

                              Comment

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