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  • zamb
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2006
    • 5834

    New Generation of London Designers

    [quote user="Faust"]




    Thanks for the review, guys.



    SBW, I didn't say I didn't like the store - I said the label they stock did not warrant a special trip to the Lower East Side [;)] . It's good to hear that you like Ervell, I'm glad it works. I'd go see mens Preen, actually - I think they do a decent job.



    [/quote]





    this is rather surprising from you, I havent known you long enough (we havent even met actually) but i figured your style and taste was so clearly defined, that i'd never expect that you would like Preen!



    In some ways i want to like them, as they seem interesting, but thier fabrics to me are always cheap (trust me i know, as i shop for fabrics alot) and their construction leaves a lot to be desired, Sometimes i wonder where do they produce the pieces, as they seem to not have very good production facilities.



    nevertheless, they have some interesting ideas, thats what i like about them, i dont know about thier fit though, as i never bought anything by them, (or lately anybody for that matter!)



    to me you taste, and knowledge of quality seems far more developed than what they are presently offereing......... Hopefully they will get better in the future , as they are really interesting, idea-wise...........

    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock
  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    #2
    Re: Patrik Ervell

    [quote user="zamb"][quote user="Faust"]




    Thanks for the review, guys.



    SBW, I didn't say I didn't like the store - I said the label they stock did not warrant a special trip to the Lower East Side [;)] . It's good to hear that you like Ervell, I'm glad it works. I'd go see mens Preen, actually - I think they do a decent job.



    [/quote]





    this is rather surprising from you, I havent known you long enough (we havent even met actually) but i figured your style and taste was so clearly defined, that i'd never expect that you would like Preen!



    In some ways i want to like them, as they seem interesting, but thier fabrics to me are always cheap (trust me i know, as i shop for fabrics alot) and their construction leaves a lot to be desired, Sometimes i wonder where do they produce the pieces, as they seem to not have very good production facilities.



    nevertheless, they have some interesting ideas, thats what i like about them, i dont know about thier fit though, as i never bought anything by them, (or lately anybody for that matter!)



    to me you taste, and knowledge of quality seems far more developed than what they are presently offereing......... Hopefully they will get better in the future , as they are really interesting, idea-wise...........



    [/quote]



    EXACTLY how I feel about Preen - I couldn't have put this better myself. Same goes for a lot of London labels - Jens Laugensen (sp?), Carrie-Williams. Every time I want to say, "Time to grow up, kids - you clearly have a talent, step up!"

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

    Comment

    • zamb
      Senior Member
      • Nov 2006
      • 5834

      #3
      Re: Patrik Ervell



      yes Robert-Cary-Williams is set in that way too, dont know about Laugesen as ive never seen his work up close (the SS 2007 collection seems really nice from the pictures ive seen)...... it seems the better designers almost always end up leaving london.



      It is rather surprizing that they have Saville row (mens Couture) tradition, and the newer generation produces such poor quality stuff.



      when i was learning tailring in Jamaica (self Taught) i knew an old retired tailor who used to work on saville row , I used to ask him a lot of questions about tailoring , thats how i got stuck on using Hair Canvas interfacing in my Jackets, as this is what they used on the Row, also it make very firm lapels, and i have a lapel obsession..............



      The thing i dont understand though is that retailers seem to turn a blind eye to this . It is almost as if there is one standard for london designers and another for the rest of the industry.

      “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
      .................................................. .......................


      Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

      Comment

      • Faust
        kitsch killer
        • Sep 2006
        • 37852

        #4
        Re: Patrik Ervell

        [quote user="zamb"]

        yes Robert-Cary-Williams is set in that way too, dont know about Laugesen as ive never seen his work up close (the SS 2007 collection seems really nice from the pictures ive seen)...... it seems the better designers almost always end up leaving london.



        It is rather surprizing that they have Saville row (mens Couture) tradition, and the newer generation produces such poor quality stuff.



        when i was learning tailring in Jamaica (self Taught) i knew an old retired tailor who used to work on saville row , I used to ask him a lot of questions about tailoring , thats how i got stuck on using Hair Canvas interfacing in my Jackets, as this is what they used on the Row, also it make very firm lapels, and i have a lapel obsession..............



        The thing i dont understand though is that retailers seem to turn a blind eye to this . It is almost as if there is one standard for london designers and another for the rest of the industry.



        [/quote]



        Yeah, I don't exactly know what it is. Sometimes I think it's a sign of rebellion. It's a bad sign, but a sign. They have Saville Row (tradition and excellence), than Westwood (rebellion), than McQueen (amazing artistry). Maybe they feel like they need to cut out something else, a new path. Maybe this is their sign of youthfulness and democratization of fashion? Or maybe they are just small and want to keep their prices low, because a low price point is an advantage for an up and coming label. I don't know - just musing. Then again, you look at someone like Jas MB, and their quality is top notch and the prices are not so bad...

        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

        Comment

        • zamb
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2006
          • 5834

          #5
          Re: Patrik Ervell

          [quote user="Faust"]



          Yeah, I don't exactly know what it is. Sometimes I think it's a sign of rebellion. It's a bad sign, but a sign. They have Saville Row (tradition and excellence), than Westwood (rebellion), than McQueen (amazing artistry). Maybe they feel like they need to cut out something else, a new path. Maybe this is their sign of youthfulness and democratization of fashion? Or maybe they are just small and want to keep their prices low, because a low price point is an advantage for an up and coming label. I don't know - just musing. Then again, you look at someone like Jas MB, and their quality is top notch and the prices are not so bad...



          [/quote]



          well, the only one in my opinion , to have come out of
          london, with a perspective than was not based on any pre-exising style
          statement is Chalayan.



          everyone else was/is doing something was
          was already done, albeit in thier own unique way, I have no problem
          with rebellion or whatever, only......If you are going to do it, do it
          well, as in Magiela, Rei, Junya. CCP etc. what i am talking about is
          garment not trimmed properly, Badly made seams, poor quality sewing
          thread, Overlock machines not adjusted properly etc.



          i know
          reasonasble prices help with smaller companies, as you want to sell
          enough to keep business going (right now this is a real pain for my own
          company!!!!!!) but if ou are going to do something, whatever it is do
          it well!!!!!!



          “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
          .................................................. .......................


          Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

          Comment

          • zamb
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2006
            • 5834

            #6
            Re: Patrik Ervell



            do you think we are moving off topic?



            should we carry on this discussion elsewhere. in another forum

            “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
            .................................................. .......................


            Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

            Comment

            • Faust
              kitsch killer
              • Sep 2006
              • 37852

              #7
              New Generation of London Designers

              I split off our discussion about Preen, Robert Carrie-Williams, Jens Laugensen, etc. into a new thread. We think these guys are worth a look.
              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

              Comment

              • Faust
                kitsch killer
                • Sep 2006
                • 37852

                #8
                Re: Patrik Ervell

                [quote user="zamb"]

                do you think we are moving off topic?



                should we carry on this discussion elsewhere. in another forum



                [/quote]



                Ok, I split it off - hopefully it worked. Edit, God, I hate this shit - I can't split off posts without makeing a double thread.

                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                Comment

                • zamb
                  Senior Member
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 5834

                  #9
                  Re: Patrik Ervell



                  Jessica ogden (my country-woman) should be in this group too, I know she went bankrupt (i hated that so much) but she needed to move beyond the home-made looking stuff she was doing, her last collection (probably her best) FW06/7 was never produced. it was a shame that the moment she seemed to have found a new frontier, is the moment she went out of business.




                  “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                  .................................................. .......................


                  Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                  Comment

                  • Faust
                    kitsch killer
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 37852

                    #10
                    Re: Patrik Ervell

                    [quote user="zamb"]

                    Jessica ogden (my country-woman) should be in this group too, I know she went bankrupt (i hated that so much) but she needed to move beyond the home-made looking stuff she was doing, her last collection (probably her best) FW06/7 was never produced. it was a shame that the moment she seemed to have found a new frontier, is the moment she went out of business.



                    [/quote]



                    That does suck. I don't think I've ever seen her stuff in person, but liked what I've seen on the runway.



                    I am not so keen on the newest prospects that are being touted to us. Gareth Pugh, for example. Lame.

                    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                    Comment

                    • zamb
                      Senior Member
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 5834

                      #11
                      Re: Patrik Ervell



                      well, she was the first to let me know anything about deconstruction! , we did a show together in jamaica in1999, Then i wasnt as knowledgeable about international fashion as i am now. and i thought at the time that her work sucked. I was making all these really well finished pieces and here she comes with ripped and shredded stuff! Ive come a long way though. And i appreciate the diversity that exist in the industry (except the lack of a true Racial diversity, which is another discussion for another time)



                      she used to be carried at Kirna Zabete in SOHO,



                      i dont know where else in the US she was stocked.



                      My verdict is still out on Pugh, as he has not made any real clothing as yet I have to see him do that first, then i can say something about him.



                      His studio i hear, is funded by Rick Owens and Michele lamy, and he is one of Anna wintours new favorites, so that says a lot (maybe a new McQueen in the making, or Maybe a great big bust, only time will tell).



                      the guy i like out of London is Jean-Pierre Braganza, He is originally from Canada, He is sold at Seven, Checked out his work and the quality is not bad, although creatively i think he needs to focus more though.

                      “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                      .................................................. .......................


                      Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                      Comment

                      • onemancult
                        Member
                        • Dec 2006
                        • 81

                        #12
                        Re: Patrik Ervell



                        I am actually into Gareth Pugh. It is interesting and exciting stuff, in my opinion.
                        Perhaps it is just my currentobsession withLondon'sreborn club culture that is skewing my opinion, but I really can't deny that this stuff is just skull-fuckingly awesome to me:
















                        Comment

                        • Servo2000
                          Senior Member
                          • Oct 2006
                          • 2183

                          #13
                          Re: Patrik Ervell



                          Hmm.



                          I remember seeing an article on his work a while back. It's interesting, but I don't know that I'd give it much more than that.

                          WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

                          Comment

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