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Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)

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  • Chinorlz
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 6422

    Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



    Whew, so I finally finished this project after putting it off for months. In total, about a week's work off and on.




    I started with the Linea jumpsuit purchased at Century 21 (which I cut a zipup jacket out of and installed a front zipper onto (a pain in the ass since the front placket was reinforced at evenly spaced points along the flap which I had to redo and the hidden napoleon pocket was in between the placket and the zipper so I had about 4 layers to stitch to the zipper which essentially lifted off the jacket for the pocket.)) and then removed the bottom half.




    For all intensive purposes I had the barest semblance of pants. Essentially two legs. No hem, no fly. Nothing.




    The jumpsuit:










    The top was turned into this:







    ...and the bottom half into this:







    Just a quick outside photo.... sorry about the bad shot







    The front, closed (3 button fly with hook-eye closure at the waist)







    All seen here...







    I added the "comfort patch" typically found in unlined pants. I promise it's more uniform and symmetricthan it looks like in this wrinkly photo hehehe [:P]







    For the waistband I folded and tucked the top of the cut waist edge down to create a 3 cm hem. I reinforced the waist band with a second 2 cm thick single-fold strip that runs the entirety of the inner circumference. rectangular flaps like the one seen here are used to hide the center seat seam and the two side seams that would be apparent with this "fold down" waist band method.




    I pinned a straight legged slim cut and with Linea pants' notoriously ridiculously long inseams these ruch up really nicely with boots. I also put in hanger loops hehehe.




    I had a bit of an issue when it came to creating the hook/eye waistband closure a la MA+/Linea where you only see the hook and not the eye. I've not seein any of these pieces in person (well... at Atelier but I wasn't looking closely at that time) so I didn't know how those guys did it. My method was to install 3 eyes spaced 1 cm apart (hey... maybe i'll get fatter) under the front waistband flap and then cut and reinforce button-hole style slits over them so that it looks like the hook just hooks into the waistband itself and thus when closed, all you see is that nice little metal bar. I think it came out ok....




    Pretty proud of this one... my first pair of pants ever made. I can absolutely truly appreciate how difficult it is to make something perfect, uniform and with lots of layers. I left a lot of raw edges on the interior as you may be able to see... but the Linea fabric doesn't fray readily so I'm confident it'll hold for quite some time. I'll be posting them worn in WAYWT soon (may wear them tonight with CCP black boots fresh from the cobbler and a white button up... free museum night here in Berlin tonight!)!




    I managed to find two pretty good leather stores in Berlin and purchased a non-too-cheap calf leather hide. MA+ wallet and the MA+ waist/belt bag will hopefully come out of this. If there is leftover leather after these projects I may be able to make an MA+ wallet or so for interested parties to help cover the cost of the leather.




    So the next 4 projects are:




    CCP U shaped overlock pants in black denim w/white overlock




    LMaltieri dual fabric (one stretchy one not) s/s and long sleeve black/dark gray shirts




    MA+ wallet(s) (One for my girlfriend as she tends to misplace cards hehe)




    MA+ triangular belt bag




    The size of the sheets necessary for a full out massive MA+ accordion bag is immense! Compounded with the fact that most hides have at least 1 or two holes in them it's no wonder he charges the prices he does for the bags. Not only that, in either leather shop, I had a bit of a hard time finding any hides that were dual-side treated in the way that MA+ leather is... not even really any approximation could be found in anything short of belt-leather (from the neck of the cow) that is too thick for the bag. A true testament to the leather that Amadei chooses and uses.




    Zamb, I'm really looking forward to your blog/guides on creating clothes. When making these items I was truly flying by the seat of my pants and basing it on photos/existing items and a bit of planning haha.

    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "
  • Casius
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2006
    • 4772

    #2
    Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)

    Very very cool Albert. I think they turned out great and you managed to keep them looking like something Linea would have made. Nothing like getting two pieces out of one!

    And I'll put my name on the list for possible extra leather to be made into a wallet...heheh.
    "because the young are whores. dealers come to carol to get the rock"

    Comment

    • Kodak
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2006
      • 191

      #3
      Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)

      Wow, you should post more of your projects. This is the inspiration I need to finally get off my but and get thesewing machine I wanted.

      Comment

      • Chinorlz
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2006
        • 6422

        #4
        Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



        Thanks Cas. I really tried to maintain the Linea aesthetic. These two pieces I created from the jumpsuit have been some of my best "purchases" to date. The jumpsuit was on the order of $350-400 and I've gotten two lovely pieces out of it (I wear the Linea jacket near-daily haha).




        I looked at the skin (half a calf... not cheap haha) and it looks like I can maybe make a few wallets (small and medium) out of it. If enough people want them I can talk to the leather dealer and get another skin (same thinness, same treatment), but I'll let everyone know and post photos of the first small one I make (I'll start tonight on it) so that everyone can see the leather style/thinness/etc.


        www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

        Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

        Comment

        • Chinorlz
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2006
          • 6422

          #5
          Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



          [quote user="Kodak"]Wow, you should post more of your projects. This is the inspiration I need to finally get off my but and get thesewing machine I wanted.[/quote]





          Haha, thanks Kodak!




          I have only recently restarted my projects that have been on the side burner for months but now that I've started again, I'm going full steam ahead. Along with the MA+ wallet(s), I am planning on making the MA+ side bag (the flatter, triangular shaped one) and I have denim for the CCP U shaped ones as mentioned above.




          A sewing machine is relatively cheap to buy especially if you have an IKEA near you ($50). Otherwise, Craigslist is your friend. An inexpensive purchase that will more than pay for itself!

          www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

          Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

          Comment

          • Kodak
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2006
            • 191

            #6
            Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



            I already havea machinein mind thats in my price range. I think I'll get it in a week or two. Chinorlz, do you have an overlock machine for the CCPstyle jeans? Would those be sewn together in a normal manner?

            Comment

            • Chinorlz
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 6422

              #7
              Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



              Cool. Glad to hear it. The more DIY'ers on here the better! :)




              I don't have an overlock machine but I've looked into one (discussed in the CCP thread I think... I have links to sites that sell the machines). It's a bag closer machine. You can see the stitching on large bags of rice and coffee at the supermarket. The way Carol uses the machine is all items are constructed as normal first (regular stitching for all seams) and then he goes over them again with the overlock making sure to stitch a little closer to the existing seam than when he first created the seams with the regular sewing machine. Thus when the fabric is parted and worn regularly, you see those lovely parallel horizontal lines.




              You can mimic this on a thinner scale with a serger (the bag closers are essentially industrial thickness sergers for all intensive purposes) and MA+ actually does this (or something really really similar) on many of his fabric items.




              A regular serger will set you back something like $200-300 brand new (why I haven't gotten one) and the bag closer I think about $100 more than that but maybe some dedicated ebay searching will turn up something that's more reasonable in price. The bag closer is an attractive piece to pick up, but it's a one-trick-pony. Essentially used to mimic CCP stuff and that's a bit too much money to spend for a copied "detail" if you know what I mean....


              www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

              Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

              Comment

              • Kodak
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2006
                • 191

                #8
                Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



                I understand Chinorlz. To go along with my new hobby, I am going to order this Japanese pattern making book from ebay. The seller always has a constant supply. If you want the name of the seller, I can give it to you. Anyways here are some pics.










                Comment

                • Chinorlz
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 6422

                  #9
                  Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



                  Oh man those are some wacky designs!




                  I'd love the link to the auction just for future reference. For now I've got a lot on my hands hehe.




                  I just constructed a small size MA+ wallet after many hours of work and now it's sitting under a heavy stack of books to make the form more permanent. Will post photos of it tomorrow!




                  I'm pretty sure I'll have enough leather to make another 2 or 3 of these so pm me if you're interested after I post the photos of a completed one tomorrow.


                  www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                  Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                  Comment

                  • clay
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 284

                    #10
                    Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)

                    Albert the hook and eye treatment is great! I thought you just put holes in the fabric. I believe that is something CD would do!

                    Comment

                    • zamb
                      Senior Member
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 5834

                      #11
                      Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



                      Really Nice Albert!!!!!!




                      I commend your efforts and the pieces look really nice, (especially the shirt)




                      I am really recommending that you buy an overlock machine (serger) as it makes a world of difference,




                      I know it cost a pretty penny but...... they keep resale Value so if and when you dont want it anymore you can always recover a portion of the cost when you decide to sell.




                      I have an industrial overlock (also a domestic, for house use) the industial i use for creating the samples for the collections.




                      I also have 2 Juki industrial straight stitch




                      the Luxury i have is i work at a company where we have




                      1. eyelet machines




                      2. Buttonhole machines (both keyhole and regular)




                      3.Bartack machines.




                      4. walking foot machines (for sewing plastic, heavy leather and ballistic material for bulletproof vests)




                      5. we also have Artisan machine that can be used for sewing multiple layers of heavy fabric like the soles of shoes etc.




                      So i hava access to a ton of tools and resouces to do my work.




                      My intent is to start blogging at the end of this Month, in the meantime i am getting a camera (Ah, Melanie!!!!!!!!!) and preparing a few diagrams and explanations for constructing pockets, Collars, Plackets etc..




                      Also...... I am going to make one of those overlock pants (if laziness dont overtake me i'll do it this week) and i will post them here, for me its not hard and with my help it should be easier for you and whomever else is interested.




                      Also.........I am going to buy one of those Bag Closing (overlock)machines...... I'll just have to figure out where in my house i am going to put it, as i have absolutely no space right now





                      Talk soon




                      ZB


                      “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                      .................................................. .......................


                      Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                      Comment

                      • zamb
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2006
                        • 5834

                        #12
                        Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



                        Really Nice Albert!!!!!!




                        I commend your efforts and the pieces look really nice, (especially the shirt)




                        I am really recommending that you buy an overlock machine (serger) as it makes a world of difference,




                        I know it cost a pretty penny but...... they keep resale Value so if and when you dont want it anymore you can always recover a portion of the cost when you decide to sell.




                        I have an industrial overlock (also a domestic, for house use) the industial i use for creating the samples for the collections.




                        I also have 2 Juki industrial straight stitch




                        the Luxury i have is i work at a company where we have




                        1 eyelet machines




                        2. Buttonhole machines (both keyhole and regular)




                        3.Bartack machines.




                        4 walking foot machines (for sewing plastic, heavy leather and ballistic material for bulletproof vests)


                        “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                        .................................................. .......................


                        Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                        Comment

                        • Chinorlz
                          Senior Member
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 6422

                          #13
                          Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



                          Hot damn, you've got everything!




                          I'm hoping that I'll have a lot of workspace in my new apartment/house starting at the end of July. I'd like to not only have a house with bare polished concrete but have a sort of studio for working on pieces with different machines. You're right... a serger is a good investment and I just need to suck it up and just get one hahaha.




                          I'm looking forward to seeing your overlock jeans! I'm gonna start the U shaped jeans today. The trickiest part is creating the right pattern for the U shape so that they result in a good twist along the leg and aren't skin tight.




                          Have fun and can't wait to see the fruits of your labor!

                          www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                          Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                          Comment

                          • zamb
                            Senior Member
                            • Nov 2006
                            • 5834

                            #14
                            Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



                            Yes albert,




                            space is THE priority right now,




                            went shopping with my brother today and he was complainin about the same thing,,,,,,,,,,not enough space for the stuff we have.




                            I am in the market for a house right now, and the primary reason for buying this house is because i need studio space for my work!!!!!!!!!





                            Will definately do the jeans this week.




                            Also May be of help on some of the patterns......'




                            Talk soon




                            Zamb

                            “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                            .................................................. .......................


                            Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                            Comment

                            • Chinorlz
                              Senior Member
                              • Sep 2006
                              • 6422

                              #15
                              Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



                              That sounds awesome Zamb!




                              Can't wait!




                              I've got a few ideas in mind in regards to making a small pochette/card carrying case with a hook/eye closure front flap (using the natural edge of the hide as the asymmetric flap). I'll probably sit down and crank it out at some point this week and I'll post photos as well.

                              www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                              Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                              Comment

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