Ask Zam

[zamb]

Ok Guys, i killed the Blog, too much work and too little time. Sorry,

but i keep getting numerous PM's regading how to do/make stuff, so i am creating this thread as a means of asking me whatever you want, no not about my private life[71][:'(][74] but anything with regards to sewing, tailoring etc. there is a request right now for how to do cowl necklines, draping a-la Julius, I will tape pictures and respond tomorrow, until then...................ask on

[Purity]

Re: Ask Zam

This is great Zam! thank you. Was thinking of asking you some questions myself..especially about draping, but if youre answering this tommorow i guess i'll just wait. [Y]

[oliviervdroo]

Re: Ask Zam



fantastic you want to spend some of your time helping out. I have a question: I'm eyeballing a pair of carpe reverse calfskin's. Unfortunately, they's the brown ones. Do you think it's doable to dye them? What's the chances of itresulting in a total loss?

[zamb]

Re: Ask Zam



Yes it is doable to dye them, there is a thread here on dyeing leather shoes/ garments, I will have to figure out how to link, but its here in this same DIY forum.

My advice though is to calculate whether it is cheaper to buy them then Dye them the colour you want or just try to get the actual Colour you need, which you didn't particularly specify.............I will find the thread on dying, then post a link tonite, which i think has the information for a store in NYC, .

I see you are in Brussels.......... it should be somewhat easy to find a good dyeing source on that side of the globe

ZB

[Chinorlz]

Re: Ask Zam



Zamb my man, I got a couple of novice questions for you [73] They're super-basic concepts that I just don't know exactly about because I'm not formally trained hehehe. Sorry about them being so basic!

1. can you tell me about constructing the sleeve/shoulder intersection on t-shirts? How do you get it so that there is no puckering at that intersection?

2. how do you make the patterns that you do? Do you measure and cut them out of a stiffer manila/cardboard and then use those as the template when you use the roller-cutter on the fabric itself? Or do you just use that thin translucent waxy paper pattern?

3. When cutting t-shirt fabrics or just even making the patterns out of them, how do you ensure that the fabric doesn't stretch and that you're cutting an accurate pattern? I don't know how the people at Olmar & Mirta do it with that super stretchy gossamer thin tshirt fabric for Rick Owens hehehe.

Thanks Zamb for all your help!!

[zamb]

Re: Ask Zam

[quote user="Chinorlz"]


Zamb my man, I got a couple of novice questions for you [73] They're super-basic concepts that I just don't know exactly about because I'm not formally trained hehehe. Sorry about them being so basic!

1. can you tell me about constructing the sleeve/shoulder intersection on t-shirts? How do you get it so that there is no puckering at that intersection?

there are two factors at work here that may contribute to this...............1. lay the front and back of you pattern on a table and align the shoulder seams, if they dont create a smooth curve where the sleeve is sewn into the armhole you may need to ajust them slightly.................2. measure the circumfrence of the armhole, front and back, whatever the total of this is (-1/2") should be the measurent of the sleeve cap. I think you need diagrams, I either need a faster computer (for uplading images) or a scanner.

2. how do you make the patterns that you do? Do you measure and cut them out of a stiffer manila/cardboard and then use those as the template when you use the roller-cutter on the fabric itself? Or do you just use that thin translucent waxy paper pattern?

I have gotten technologically advanced[74] now i make patterns on a computer.........nothing like hanmade patterns though............. there are several options that you can do. and i dont know how far you want to go, but you could invest in a used male dress form as it helps alot to work out your ideas on an body. but to answer your question.

1. you can make them in lightweight pattern (1" dots) paper, as this is better for drafting, then after they have been perfected yyou can trasfer them to the Oak-tag (hard paper) as these are better for storage and drafting the patterns on fabric. .........2 If you space is small you can transfer the patterns to fabric and store then in a Zip-lock bag....... i have a lot of patterns stored in this manner

3. When cutting t-shirt fabrics or just even making the patterns out of them, how do you ensure that the fabric doesn't stretch and that you're cutting an accurate pattern? I don't know how the people at Olmar & Mirta do it with that super stretchy gossamer thin tshirt fabric for Rick Owens hehehe.

you should never make patterns from T-shirt fabric (unless you are draping on a live body and want to see how the fabric performs). if you lay the fabric on a lage table it will not stretch, then you can pin/ trace the pattern pices without the fabric moving, i am going to recommend a trick to you and you can tell me how it works (ive never tried it on t-shirt fabric, but used it fir silj and it works well) buy a can of heavy duty spray starch, spray and ironthe fabric before cutting/ sewing (should stiffen the fabric), you can wash in water afterwarsd to remove the stiffness

Thanks Zamb for all your help!!

[/quote]

Albert, If you want i can send you a T-shirt pattern , perfected. just send me a PM, with you Address, and size, and i will mail them to you.

Also, i will be writing a series of books, the first of which i am working on now, which is a step by step guide as to how to make a pair of Jeans.........it will come with a Video/DVD and patterns as one package. I will be doing it for shirts, dress pants, Tailored jackets etc......... hopefully it will bring enough money to keep the line afloat and allow me to focus on my more creative endeavors.

Hope i was of help tp you

[Chinorlz]

Re: Ask Zam



zamb... you are my greatest hero.

you have been pm'd :)

[zamb]

Re: Ask Zam




I don't really have any formal experience with sewing or pattern making, so I'm hoping to modify an existing oversized shirt. Is this possible, or should I just try and start from scratch? Also, do you have any tips about the sort of fabric I should use?

Thanks for your time,

Gerry

will respond to this tomorrow as it will need a diagram, images

[matthewhk]

Re: Ask Zam

zamb, great to see that you are offering such advice, even though I am by no means a clothes maker. The day you make it big and Tim Blanks starts reviewing your collections, I will say "Hey I knew him back when..."

[oliviervdroo]

Re: Ask Zam

great idea for the books. I'm defintely interested in buying some.

[nevermind]

Re: Ask Zam



dear zam,

do you think its possible/easy for one to educate themselves, with the aid of book resources, to make patterns? what books can u recommend?

what type of garments do you enjoy making the most? [73]

this thread is a godsend, thanks zam

[gerry]

Re: Ask Zam

Thanks, Zam! :)

[zamb]

Re: Ask Zam

[quote user="nevermind"]

dear zam,

do you think its possible/easy for one to educate themselves, with the aid of book resources, to make patterns? what books can u recommend?

what type of garments do you enjoy making the most? [73]

this thread is a godsend, thanks zam

[/quote]

Yes, it is possible, for the greater part of my life i've done the same thing you are asking, but i also believe it is easier and quicker if you apprentice with someone......as this can save you alot of time in figuring out difficult techniques that could be easily explained by a knowledgeable person.

the Problem with fashion schools is that they train people according to the needs of the Fashion industry, which doesnt particularly required you to be a pro at patternmaking/ designing/ sewing to work there. you may be better served studying under a very good tailor (which is what Raf Simons did)

One good way of learning/ teaching oneself patternmaking is by buying old patterns (Vougue/ butterick McCalls etc) they are a bit boring but at least you can see how the pattern features are laid out with basic sewing instructions
there are several books you can buy, most Notably "Patternmaking for Fashion Design"- Joseph/ Armstrong

I also will be having a series of DIY books the first of which will be available later this year (August/ Sept) but they will be more about sewing/ constructing clothes than pattern making itself.

Anything Garment, I have an immensely wide range of Skills, probably more than the average person (sounds arrogant, but its really true) my only weak areas v are knitting and working with soft Fabrics like Silk-Chiffon, Georgette etc, they are two delicate for me, so i mostly avoid them