My tailor is Rick

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Opening a thread dedicated to Rick Owen's formal/tailored pieces of clothes.
Idea was mine, but title is from BSR.

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Jackets SS 09

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Jackets FW 09

Boiled Wool Berger Blazer

Wool Berger Blazer

@MailMoth: I agree with you on the failure of the skinny pants/RO blazer combo, but IMO a 1-B blazer like the boiled wool one I tried is supposed to be a bit more versatile: if it is wearable only with skirt pants, it is doomed to stay often in the closet. I got the feeling that the global Rick system (driving someone to the total look) is expanding at the cost of the versatility of pieces taken one by one, that are by now less easy to integrate to a non-Rick outfit/wardrobe.

I'm very interested in RO's tailored stuff, both jackets and coats.
I tried on many times the jacket this summer, and had the impression that the work was very well done and, most important for me, very original, whith strange things as well of course, like the absolutely horizontal line of the shoulders, which can be seen on some pictures, and seem to be RO's signature, like the pagoda shaped ones are CCP's.

I like too the very fitted and long sleeves, and the high waist, which makes the jacket look like an hybrid of jacket and frock coat, and I've no problem with the back - except that the back vents didn't "fall" properly on the jackets I tried on.

Mail-Moth is right, this jacket does not work at all with fitted trousers, but very well with large - and/or drop crotched - ones, and not only those designed by RO.
But I'd like to come back on the versatility/wearability debate. Imo things are simple : if it's so versatile, then it's not that original. So a low versatility is the price you have to pay to the originality.

Connected question : the total look. All the designers who have a strong identity (and most of them here belong to this category) are designing pieces that are meant to be associated, not only to empty your wallet, but because the complement each other and work together. For example, the lenght of the cropped trousers is always connected with the height of the boots (Ann) or the sneakers (Rick).
And the bell shaped jacket is working with the skorts, since the high waist allows to integrate a middle body garment - or requires it.

Btw, I'd say that what Rick has done with this FW collection is imo very interesting - and quite new. I haven't seen before this "three stages silhouette" (torso/waist/legs), and I like a lot these "skorts", which aren't giving the male body any feminine aspect.

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Difference between SS 09 and FW 09

Hm didn't notice before but this season's blazer seems to be different from previous versions. My strutter blazer has parallel seams at the upper half of the back, no centreal seam and also missing those diagonal seams at the shoulder area.

Please note my picture.

Blazer from SS 09 :

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Coats FW 09

For the record. I ordered the Dom coat in black silk, since I couldn't find anywhere the wool/mohair version. I won't keep it (the fabric is too stiff, to shinny and to thin, i.e. not warm enough for the winter), but I thought I should share some pictures, since some members are interested in RO's formal design.

Shape is very interesting and original, especially the back, with the two lateral tails envelopping the central one, the oversized collar and the front tails forming an inverted V. No problem of bell shape btw.
As usual, shoulders are very narrow (more than CCP's ), and armholes are very tigh and high.

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Dom coat open/closed

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Drac coat

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Le Corbusier coat

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I've always been interested in Rick's tailoring aesthetic, much more so than his leather and sportswear stuff. If I could afford it, I'd buy every jacket posted in here, and wear it my own way, to the grocery store, anywhere - probably as Rick himself would've hoped for when he created the stuff. I don't think it necessarily warrants as much scrutiny as drawing diagrams around the silhouette and what not - not saying this as a purposeful dig at you, C, but I very much see this the same as his approach to more casual elements of his work - his overall design philosophy is quite carefree and accepting, and paired with his devotion to a consistent thematic mindset is what I admire about him.

[philip nod]

my tailor is ccp

[philip nod]

no contest

[AKA*NYC]

Why u sell dick Pnod?

ccp tailor is better than rick tailor?

excellent zboss rendition. take notice folks this is how it's done correctly!

thread should be renamed dick is my tailor.

[maldoror]

my tailor is a dick

[H-R]

Tailor my dick?

[zamb]

Tailor my dick?

what size do you want it to be

Ok, this is getting stupid................
Lets get some civility back into the discussion..............