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  • DHC
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2007
    • 2155

    #31
    Originally posted by Hobo View Post
    I like the stripped trousers, we exactly the same ones in last summer but this coat; this is the kind of GBS that floats my boat! It holds its own with any of the big boys (Altieri, Rick, Grandma, Carol)! This is where he excels. Historical patterns with a super modern twist!

    I had this one in, in cashmere for the winter and it's the first coat that's nearly tempted me out of my old CDG Homme+. I wish I'd got it now! I have it in store in Black Linen with natural bone buttons, at the moment. Beautiful!!!

    Nice images, thanks DHC
    I was a bit hesitant to put up pictures from Sartorialoft, but felt it needed to be done. People need to be exposed to the work if Geoffrey is going to see the kind of recognition he so richly deserves. We've touched upon his character and noted his philosophies (lightly grazed at that). But I think we should also touch on the work that he produces too.

    Let's kick it off with this.

    As Hobo mentioned, GBS does make use of historical patterns. I think its important to remember that there is a great deal of research and development that goes into recreating pieces from say the 18th century and maintaining the essence or spirit of that piece as an homage to masters passed....all while updating it with not just the correct fabric selections, but the treatments thereof, to bring it back to the table with new found relevance in our "modern" time and for the future as well.

    I'm a sucker for excellent hand work as it provides garments with characteristics that are unique to each piece. And Geoffrey's work has more than the mass majority of other designers out there and it is quality. Hand dyed for calibrated color and hand washed to bring out the supple qualities of a fabric. These are not easy production tasks yet all his work is produced with the same attention, dedication of time and love.
    Last edited by DHC; 07-31-2009, 10:24 PM.
    Originally posted by Faust
    fuck you, i don't have an attitude problem.

    Sartorialoft

    "She is very ninja, no?" ~Peter Jevnikar

    Comment

    • Faust
      kitsch killer
      • Sep 2006
      • 37849

      #32
      That coat is baller. Totaly Dark City steez.
      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

      Comment

      • hobo
        Senior Member
        • Jul 2009
        • 301

        #33
        Originally posted by DHC View Post
        I was a bit hesitant to put up pictures from Sartorialoft, but felt it needed to be done. People need to be exposed to the work if Geoffrey is going to see the kind of recognition he so richly deserves. We've touched upon his character and noted his philosophies (lightly grazed at that). But I think we should also touch on the work that he produces too.

        Let's kick it off with this.

        As Hobo mentioned, GBS does make use of historical patterns. I think its important to remember that there is a great deal of research and development that goes into recreating pieces from the 18th century and maintaining the essence or spirit of that piece as an homage to masters passed....all while updating it with not just the correct fabric selections, but the treatments thereof, to bring it back to the table with new found relevance in our "modern" time and for the future as well.

        I'm a sucker for excellent hand work as it provides garments with characteristics that are unique to each piece. And Geoffrey's work has more than the mass majority of other designers out there and it is quality. Hand dyed for calibrated color and hand washed to bring out the supple qualities of a fabric. These are not easy production tasks yet all his work is produced with the same attention, dedication of time and love.
        Absolutely. The only thing that I'd like to add at this point, is that it doesn't have to be 18C. We had the most amazing 17C coat in the store (Straight out of Dangerous Liaisons)! Totally authentic pattern but instead of making it out of the velvet and heavy luxurious fabrics that it would have been made in originally, Geoffrey made it from the most wonderful crisp striped linen which he then over-dyed black. The final colour was a dark earthy charcoal green. And the detail… Hand wrapped lace buttons and… well I could bang on forever about that one… Fucking amazing, I tell you!
        "I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying." — Oscar Wilde

        Comment

        • DHC
          Senior Member
          • Jul 2007
          • 2155

          #34
          the coat pictured above is actually 19C. The 18C piece I was referring to is that cashmere piece that you were wearing in Paris this passed winter. Oh, that thing is so gorgeous and comfortable!
          Originally posted by Faust
          fuck you, i don't have an attitude problem.

          Sartorialoft

          "She is very ninja, no?" ~Peter Jevnikar

          Comment

          • Raw Edge
            Senior Member
            • Jan 2008
            • 428

            #35
            Hobo and DHC great posts, I learn something new every time.

            What are the fits like on the GBS coats, and GBS in general?
            Seems like some of the coats are a very tailored style, while others (and some of the pants etc) fit big/are looser fitting?

            Comment

            • Fuuma
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 4050

              #36
              Originally posted by DHC View Post




              come on. the seam work is out of control! does anything really need to be said about this coat?
              The summer version in grey, lighter cotton fabric will be mine!! Such a nice piece.
              Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
              http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

              Comment

              • Fuuma
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2006
                • 4050

                #37
                Originally posted by DHC View Post
                the coat pictured above is actually 19C. The 18C piece I was referring to is that cashmere piece that you were wearing in Paris this passed winter. Oh, that thing is so gorgeous and comfortable!
                It has the raglan, very tight shoulder typical of some 19C coat, very sharp and "quietly" innovative. You wonder what's up with the shape until you notice that skewed proportions compared to 20c shapes.
                Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
                http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

                Comment

                • deleuze
                  Senior Member
                  • Jul 2007
                  • 418

                  #38
                  There are short and long acrylic/cotton versions of that coat on Yoox now in a couple of colors, $400 or so.

                  Comment

                  • Faust
                    kitsch killer
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 37849

                    #39
                    I gotta say, acrylic/cotton mix does not excite me.
                    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                    Comment

                    • pipcleo
                      Senior Member
                      • Jan 2007
                      • 548

                      #40
                      seems to excite many when the designer is rei k

                      Comment

                      • Faust
                        kitsch killer
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 37849

                        #41
                        polyester <> acrylic. i have yet to see acrylic that feels good.
                        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                        Comment

                        • hobo
                          Senior Member
                          • Jul 2009
                          • 301

                          #42
                          I can't remember seeing the acrylic mix version, but I have to say, I think that Geoffrey's strength is usually in his natural fibres; linen and cottons in the summer and cashmere and silks in the winter.

                          As a big fan of Rei K (I've been buying Comme for Pollyanna for almost 20 years), I can honestly say that I've loved, and bought for myself, many manmade fibre clothes, but nothing compares to natural. You may be able to get interesting effects with creasing and stretching and all manner of other interesting techniques with the manmade stuff but you know, when I felt the over dyed, GBS, cashmere and silk mix garments for this winter I just wanted them, then and there. Clothing is tactile and this is where the new generation are taking Rei to school .
                          "I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying." — Oscar Wilde

                          Comment

                          • Faust
                            kitsch killer
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 37849

                            #43
                            Originally posted by Hobo View Post
                            Clothing is tactile and this is where the new generation are taking Rei to school .
                            Indeed.
                            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                            Comment

                            • zamb
                              Senior Member
                              • Nov 2006
                              • 5834

                              #44
                              and she's taking the money to the bank by using cheap (pricewise) fabrics...............
                              “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                              .................................................. .......................


                              Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                              Comment

                              • hobo
                                Senior Member
                                • Jul 2009
                                • 301

                                #45
                                ^Not true.

                                She is a very honest designer and uses the fabric's which she feels are best for her design. The problem for a new generation of fashionistas, is that this is no longer a new idea. It's been done... a lot... by Rei and Issey and others. But don't forget that Rei and Issey started this. Before them, top designer labels would only use the best of natural fibres, and don’t forget that the fabric’s themselves may not be expensive but the treatments are.
                                "I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying." — Oscar Wilde

                                Comment

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