Geoffrey B. Small

[Geoffrey B. Small]

(continued from above: the new EVJ13special for Hotoveli)

.
...only 3 pieces of this special version of the super limited edition EVJ13
jacket design were made by hand in the entire world, each of them
exclusively for Hotoveli in New York City….



























We cordially invite you to contact or visit the store to begin to
experience these remarkable examples of our latest sartorial work
in person.

As always, thanks for reading.
Best wishes,

Geoffrey & the Team


.

[Faust]

So the new stuff at Hotoveli yesterday. SO BEAUTIFUL!

[NoisyArmchair]

When's exclusive Hostem pieces? I need to grope more of your work with my mani povera.

[augustinn]

Hotoveli jacket is lovely

[TabulaRasa]

Geoffrey B Small EVJ03 Linen Jacket

Very happy to have been able to acquire one of Geoffrey's EVJ03 jackets from Eth0s just the other day. Had I known about the EVJ13 I may have held off but I'm still a very contented man.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

.
Thank you so much Faust, augustinn, NoisyArmchair and TabulaRasa for your
kind comments. Tabula, the EVJ03 is a spectacular piece which features the
best of our extreme handmade technology jacket making including fully hand-
padstitched canvas front and collar construction and superlight fabric, thank
you so much for your investment in our work and support for Eth0s.
NoisyArmchair, we will feature some of the pieces created for Hostem soon,
in the meantime I would like to show a little more of Hotoveli's recent collection
delivery pieces. Continuing on the same beautiful hand dyed linen stripe which
the EVJ13special above has using a very slim historical pattern cut and fit, in
order to accommodate clients seeking a more relaxed fit- a special version of
the super limited edition LUJ14 double-breasted jacket design was also
specially made for Hotoveli....











One of only 2 pieces made by hand in the entire world exclusively for
Hotoveli in New York. It was created from our own exclusive double-
breasted unlined blazer pattern...









using remarkable real olive wood buttons made for us in Padova, and
real hand stitched buttonholes (each one requires 8-10 minutes to cut
and sew) in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano Seta threads...





The piece also features beautiful interior taped seam finishing using
special Italian satin trims...










And a superb double-stitched french seamed center back construction
with elegant center-vent styling and construction...









and cut in a very special greggio organic striped pure linen (which was
not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by
Luigi Parisotto in Sarcedo...





Each individually hand dyed in our studios using a process which
required a minimum of 8 hours of work for a single piece to achieve
its special color and patina effects.

.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

(continued from above: special pieces for Hotoveli

.

there are also some incredible handmade shirting pieces in the collection such
as this special version of the GS02 shirt design …










created in a remarkable new hand dyed silk and cotton super 120's double-
twisted yarn fabric developed exclusively for us by Luigi Parisotto...





With real mother-of-pearl buttons, beautifully finished all french seam interiors,
and of course, our wonderful pure silk Bozzolo thread handmade buttonholes
throughout on the shirt's 14 buttonholes which took almost 3 hours of super-
skilled work to create for each single shirt...










One of only 5 pieces made by hand in the entire world exclusively
for Hotoveli in New York...





The design also features a removable top collar for a true “2-in-1” design
concept use for extra long-term wear and investment value- providing both
collared and band-collared ways to wear it (2 looks in one) as well as giving
you invaluable longer term double protection against wearing out the collar
fabric--the precise area where most tailored shirts normally wear out…





.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

(continued from above: special pieces for Hotoveli)

.


"Super-Trouser" Redefined- one of just five in the world

AN incredible piece of tailoring mastery. When we first set out to create this design, our goal was to stretch the horizon of hand work technologies for what the designer market today has seen and experienced when it comes to trousers. From our extensive tailoring research, we decided upon an original authentic early 1900's super hand detail work reproduction trouser pattern that on first glance by our top team of designer tailors... looked impossible to be able to recreate in today's world and at today's labor costs and skill sets- not to mention what the average designer store retailer believes is the limit for a pair of pants to be priced at these days with all the so-called crises in the market and the economy and the whatever other excuse somebody is always coming up with to make up for mediocre merchandise offerings. But, we decided to try. And after successfully building and introducing it to the world in Paris, the design began to generate orders from our best store clients inspite of the fact that it would have to retail at more than a typical jacket from most any other designer's collection. Even in tiny series though, the article was an enormous challenge to produce at any price--quite simply, it is a complex, mountain of work with stringent spec requirements that forced our people to stretch to new levels of total excellence, discipline, and yes, determination--to remind ourselves of our simple single unified objective: to be able to make the best handmade clothes in the world today. And show the world what is still possible, and what is still so beautiful that it merits its right and honorable place in a marketplace fast being filled with little better than printed raincoats and t-shirts made in Bangladesh or tim-buk-tu with nothing more than a catchy slogan to merit its obviously exaggerated price tag. For those who fall for and give away their (obviously not hard-earned) money on that pitifully sad excuse for a modern designer collection concept, we say go ahead... and smile to ourselves at both the vapidity and the stupidity of some members of the human race. Obviously, having money to spend and having a basic level of intelligence do not necessarily go hand in hand these days. We on the other hand have a different cause and a different mission, and our work is dedicated to a different level of human being with a different level of taste, investment value and moral compass. For that kind of person, we will expend blood, sweat and tear to create, build, and deliver the GBS NVP02. A true Super-Trouser. It is undoubtedly one of the most unique and rare examples of extreme hand made clothing technology being created anywhere in the world today, especially when it comes to a pair of trousers. And we are damn proud to be able to say that we, this team of human beings, who have no fear of technical sartorial challenge, no matter how difficult to aspire to, no matter how maniacally impossible the odds, in a world where nobody knows how to make nothin' anywhere anymore and is even more unwilling to pay for it... that we, and perhaps we alone, can and do make this trouser today--in this world. I provide a quick rundown here to begin to explain why. First, it is in pattern cut, fit and build an exact replica of a 1905 English marine tailored trouser. Anybody who knows about making exact historical clothing replicas or duplicating tailored garments well, will know already the difficulties that would have been encountered and dealt with to achieve this kind of result…






For fabric, a very special herringbone weave heavier-weight linen woven
exclusively for us in Varese Italy was chosen to create the piece, then specially
hand dyed in our studios with special processes which took about 8 hours
for each piece to achieve its marvelous patina, softness, and unique effects...










The design also features a stunning interior perfectly following the
original early 1900's example that is full of extreme handsewn
finishing details all around the completely hand-built waistline, lining
skirt, crotch sections, and even hems and hem bottom protectors of
the trouser...





























.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

(continued from above: the NVP02special for Hotoveli)

.
The split-center back, and back-belt waist adjuster provides elegant
classic comfort and adjustability...




along with ultra-personalized hand made suspenders in vintage recycle
handcut leathers with special weave linen,cotton and viscosa tapes
and cording custom-designed and assembled in our own workrooms
and leather buckles made for us in Padova...





A study in details: for example fine machined-work secondary reinforcement
seaming executed with extreme precision and accuracy throughout the entire
piece's construction which further added to the exaggerated and lengthy
building process. Note too, that every double, or triple-stitch seam (as in the
photo below) is performed in our workrooms using single-needle equipment
as per the original turn-of-the-century piece and technique. We are purists at
the Via Spalato Sartoria, we do not use any double-needle or triple-needle
machines. So remember, this work takes 2-3 times more work and time than
it would in a typical jeans type of factory operation using multiple-needle
machinery. But it would never, ever, look, feel, or be as beautiful as this...










as well the amazing special advanced design buttons (look at them carefully,
that is not plastic folks... that is real horn) made exclusively for us in Parma
by Italy’s greatest living button-makers, Claudio and Cinzia Fontana...










and of course, our signature hand stitched buttonholes that require 8-10
minutes for each one in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano Seta threads,
to complement the extensive handstitched interior detail work...










Detail after detail: here the perfect reproduction of the elegant chevron
shaped top-seaming detail work with minute, super-tight stitch length
normally used on fine shirtwork from the original early 1900's design...





The special version of the super limited edition NVP02 trouser design is
one of only 5 pieces made by hand in the entire world, just 3 of which
were created for all of North America, each exclusively for Hotoveli in
New York...





One of the most intricately studied and constructed trousers in the world
today, even more so when you consider that with all its unending and minute
precise details, it was not built on a line production where different people
could focus on a specific operation in large quantities, but by a single human
being, one of our super-tailors at Via Spalato, who had to build each piece
entirely by him or herself. Indeed, we challenge any firm out there, large or
small, to match this growing level of sartorial and technical supremacy that is
taking place within our incredible creative and production operations at
Cavarzere. We cordially invite you to contact the store in NY to begin to
experience this incredible trouser in person…


next up: 2 remarkable new pieces for Gotham summer and fun.

.

[old]

Wow, the neckpoint is aligned with the armscye on this one! And the shoulder seam on the bias! amazing historical patterns Geoffrey!

[DNHT]

Geoffrey, please say that there'll be some of those trousers in Hostem...

[t3hg0suazn]

Check Hostem Instagram - they've been showcasing a lot of GBS. There were some trousers if iirc.

[DNHT]

^ Thanks; good thought. Looks like another pair...will have to go see them in the flesh.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

2 Pieces for Gotham fun when it gets hot now for Hotoveli

.
Thank you old, DNHT, t3hg0suazn...
please note: for discussions on some of Hostem's delivery pieces, we are planning a presentation here later. For now though, I would like to show 2 more pieces from the Hotoveli delivery that I think are both interesting and great fun to create, and to wear - especially in New York when weather gets hot. The first uses some of our early recycle twin-set design techniques that we pioneered in the '90's which merged vastly different types of garments together into intriguing new metamorphoses that worked-in new combinations which at that time had never been seen or done before. Today, we apply these ideas to new fabric, cut and constructed from scratch, into the final idea instead of simply starting with existing used or vintage garments and merging them. The old way using recycling is far more efficient in many ways and sometimes easier to perform technically--but today we are making new garments from scratch far more than recycled ones for a wide range of reasons too numerous to get into right now. So here, we have a striking extreme handwork piece that we call a "shirt/jacket" which not only puts together two entirely different design patterns and garment construction technologies, but also merges two incredibly special super-artisan fabrics created only for us by Luigi Parisotto in Sarcedo and the Colombina family in Badoere... and represents a marvelous example of our unparalleled research, development and collaboration with the very best of 'Made in Italy' textile and component makers still working today.

Now, for the few people out there who know something about making clothes, especially in prototype and sample quantities, you may appreciate the difficulties and challenges that this kind of sartorial merging of so many different elements: patterns, constructions, and materials into a single unified piece, might create and present to those who must try to make it. While our "Assemblage" Paris collection in 2014 raised this technology to unprecedented levels, this project as part of "Radicallissimo" marked our first attempts to work with a real totally handwoven fabric- which due to its own unique characteristics, presented a whole new set of sartorial working and practical challenges. This is not an easy piece to create, but in the end it is truly worth the effort, and we felt it was important to present and share it here exclusively on StyleZeitgeist.

A Hotoveli exclusive for all of the U.S. and North America, the super limited edition RSS09 notch-lapel shirt/jacket design is one of only 3 pieces made by hand in the entire world- of which, just 2 pieces were created exclusively for Hotoveli in New York City...










The RSS09's handmade shirt component was created by hand by
combining our longer proportion fit and cut shirt from our medieval
period research, and cut using a luxurious superlux stripe in Super
120’s double-twist pure organic Venezia cotton shirting woven for us in
Sarcedo, Italy by Luigi Parisotto...





Then combined with a notch-lapel, single-breasted jacket shape cut and
built in exclusive handwoven silk and linen fabric woven for us by the
Colombo family at Tessitura Colombina in Badoere di Morgano, Treviso
(see our post last fall on Examen Reginae to learn more), where it took
a full day working on one of their original 18th century wooden looms,
carefully kept and maintained for generations, to make enough cloth
just to make a single one of these pieces...





The components were then specially hand dyed and hand washed in a
time consuming double-separated process to achieve their special
color and patina effects, for extra aging and softness...





Extensive hand stitch detail and finishing work and antique Venetian
novelty weave linen and cotton trim were utilized to form the junction
of the two hand built assemblies...





In our first experience working with La Colombina's exquisite hand
loomed work, and as the weave was significantly looser and more open
than fabrics created on power looms, our top people in the sartoria
expressed serious concerns about trying to execute either our signature
handmade welt and besom pockets as well as our handmade buttonholes.
Each of these operations required cutting the fabric and making extremely
precise stitch work, and the possibility of the fabric yarns unraveling
uncontrollably during the process could easily risk ruining the garment
at that point. As the precious and narrow 90cm wide fabric piece had
only arrived to our workrooms about a week before we had to present
our collection in Paris, we decided that we did not have adequate time
or fabric to research and test techniques to perform these operations,
so we decided to eliminate putting the Colombina's beautiful work (and
expensive that piece was costing us about 400 euros alone)- at risk
and avoid welt pockets and buttonholes and use other appropriate
sartorial options. Later as we developed the groundbreaking "Examen
Reginae" collection for women, we were able to develop and master
both handcut welt/besom pocket-making and handsewn buttonhole
operations on totally hand-loomed fabrics and today, they are counted
as yet another one of our extreme handmade clothing technologies of
which we are alone in being able to perform beautifully, efficiently, and
yes, profitably, in this industry. Another example of our growing sartorial
supremacy that I must continue to emphasize, is totally unique in the
world today. So in the end, for the RSS09, beautiful Italian metal
"automatica" buttons were hand sewn to the piece using pure Bozzolo
silk threads. Part of this decision was aesthetic, but another was
practical...





A phenomenal blood red and beige antique venetian linen and cotton
lace was chosen to accent hemlines at shirt bodice and sleeve cuff in a
clear, unmistakeably personalized manner that would immediately tip
off any onlooker that this was no factory-made or common commercial
fast-fashion or corporate-luxury brand garment...





ditto the real mother-of-pearl buttons made for us in Padova on the
sleeve cuffs...





and naturally, the real hand sewn buttonholes (each one requires 8-10
minutes to cut and sew) in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano
Seta threads on the shirting cuffs...



.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

(continued from above)

.



One of only three in the world. The RSS09 is created for someone clearly
a world apart from the H&M, Net-A-Porter, and Barneys NY type of crowd.
We cordially invite you to contact the store and begin to experience this
amazing piece of extreme handmade technology and research in person.
Next, a look at a super dress for summer in New York...

.