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Zam Barrett Dialogue

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    Senior Member
    • Nov 2007
    • 3007

    Originally posted by Faust View Post
    I would imagine he meant a Dickens character, only he misspelled it.
    LOVE THE SHIRST... HOW much?


    • eat me
      Senior Member
      • May 2009
      • 648

      Faust, fair point. I think my view of a collection being a collection is very institutionalized, so I see these garments as a more of an assemble of pieces + bags. Perhaps it's just to early to jump on Zamb, there always needs to be some time given to a designer to find his own style.


      • Raw Edge
        Senior Member
        • Jan 2008
        • 428

        "totally Faggin', bro!"


        • philip nod
          Senior Member
          • Aug 2007
          • 5903

          Originally posted by Faust View Post
          I don't think much of this is SZ related. I can see some resemblance in the cut of the pants - but J-shape is actually a more common cut than C'est Fini suggests - Galliano has been doing it, Dirk Schonberger too. It does not belong to Carol or Julius. As for the rest, it's very much Zam's own. As for your appeals to cohesion, eat_me, you maybe surprised, but I have seen many of these garments on Zam and they indeed go together. If you are looking for some kind of a theme, a-la Ann, you won't find it, just like you won't find them in CDiem or Poell, the guys who concentrate on the garment itself rather than on presenting a larger theme.
          sorry to nit pick this but poell's collections are totally thematic and overtly conceptual in scope, but i'm assuming i've misinterpreted something in your statement.

          looking forward to seeing in person zambo. based on the photos, there def. appears to have been a dramatic improvement in sleekness and vision over the work in the DIY thread, which despite people's hangups over nods to trendy lexicons, should be a fine enough reason to , especially since zamb is kind and brave enough to show us his artistic process.
          One wonders where it will end, when everything has become gay.


          • cuddly
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2007
            • 393

            i want that faggin Nick bag!


            • todestrieb
              Senior Member
              • Mar 2009
              • 239

              Fantastic gear. Would love to see closeups and fit pics of the boiled wool and silk hooded scarf. Thank you.


              • Faust
                kitsch killer
                • Sep 2006
                • 37852

                Originally posted by philip nod View Post
                sorry to nit pick this but poell's collections are totally thematic and overtly conceptual in scope, but i'm assuming i've misinterpreted something in your statement.
                I don't mean that the garments from each collection don't have esthetic cohesion, but rather that they don't have a story behind them. They are more garments for the sake of garments, not for the sake of telling a story. Not sure if that makes sense.
                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                StyleZeitgeist Magazine


                • cjbreed
                  Senior Member
                  • Feb 2009
                  • 2712

                  u know more than i but i thought ccp collections often had a story. like the hairy collection, the airy collection (weight reduction: perforations, etc), the humanoid collection (jointed pieces and such). there was that one about the #13. the skewed collection (twisted seams and all). i'm forgetting a lot but my point is that when looking over his work in the threads it seemed to me that his ideas are brought forth in groups.

                  this has nothing to do with zamb. sorry zamb! nice work!
                  dying and coming back gives you considerable perspective


                  • Venus in Furs
                    • Aug 2009
                    • 355

                    ^ no you're right, Carol's work and his collections as a whole are incredibly thematic


                    • fenrost
                      • Mar 2009
                      • 623

                      ccp's theme are in the details - construction/process.

                      ignoring the terms/discussion of influences (which are really banal). they look good zamb for a, (i assume) debut collection.


                      • asho
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2007
                        • 353

                        while zamb's use of sz lexicon could be seen as a shrewd marketing move to prick up the ears and gain the attention of a captive audience. It really makes no difference as more than likely if he'd given the garments names along the lines of the bags they's still be refereed to on here as what they look like, just as every jacket with a diagonal zip is called a 'fencing'. Maybe zamb's realised this as... but then again i don't take him as one with a pessimistic streak.


                        • clay
                          Senior Member
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 284

                          Zamb my man this stuff looks great! That Siamese bag is ill! Love it all and it definately looks like the ZamB I know.

                          Ha! Ha! Knew somebody would take a hard line. Just say you don't like it and leave it at that.....Opinions are like assholes, everybody's got one and thinks theirs does not stink.


                          • Venus in Furs
                            • Aug 2009
                            • 355

                            ^ what's the point of that, it's much better to hear reasons why someone doesn't like something. Strong opinions and intellectual debate are the strong points of this forum, just saying "I don't like it" and leaving it at that seems completely mundane


                            • zamb
                              Senior Member
                              • Nov 2006
                              • 5834

                              Originally posted by C'est Fini View Post
                              the term object dyed- has deep rooted connections with CCP.
                              It is a term he came up with- While,garment dying has been done by yohji,comme etc it wasnt until carol did we see a shoe/leather jacket being dyed post production in the tanning barrels.- Hence the term object dyed. I associate the term with carol. Why not use the word garment dyed? Its a fairly generic term.

                              Hammering leather wont make a stiff leather much softer my friend- Treating it with certain oils will- Hammering might help afterward.
                              When you use the term 'hammered leather' you immediately strike a chord with those fans of Rick Owens/etc. Cut the jargon is all that I am saying. It goes a long way.

                              I am a firm believer that the product, above all, should do the talking.

                              While your bags might reveal your influences, they do not come across the same way as your clothes- they dont look tired.
                              Like i said, the leather doesnt look too great- but...if you focus on that and the components i can see them going a long way.

                              For example, I still think that Amadei's strength is in his bags and accessories. His clothes and shoes take second place.
                              Rick Owens- we all know- Leather outerwear Lord.
                              Maurizio- Shoe/leather guru.
                              Carol - the psycho tailor.
                              Luc- knit genius.
                              Paul Harnden - Faggin

                              and so on and so forth.

                              While they might all produce full collections, they all started with their best foot forward.

                              I go away to get some supplies for the studio and to meet up with a few friends and all hell breaks loose.
                              I dont mind it at all though, better to have a healthy debate with polarizing camps than everyone singing Kumbaya........

                              Anyways C'est Fini in some ways I've gotten used to you. We should declare you the official antagonist of SZ

                              I look at your arguments on on the surface they would seem to make sense but when we get in depth you can realize that it's easy to miss the essence of things with words.
                              I get the feeling that instead of having genuine concerns about the garments, you are more concerned with being the antagonist, in part because no one before you made any negative comments...........something you seem to think ought to be a necessary part of the equation.
                              Why not address the quality/ design/ ideas in garments themselves as items as opposed to the terms/ words used to describe them?

                              If CCP used the term "object dyed" to describe a process you say can be similarly described by using the term "garment dyed", would I not also be using a term someone else coined and by the same token you say "derivative"?
                              My first experience with this term came from the work of MMM and not CCP, so maybe for you your first exposure to the term was with Carol. mine was with the great Martin Margiela.

                              What does it matter what term is used?
                              What about the pieces themselves, as opposed to the words used to describe them ?
                              Do we wear garments or do we wear words?
                              are we interested in the quality of products and their usefulness to our lives or some fancy story behind them............ that in reality may or may not have any real connection to the clothes themselves?

                              Some of the work is indeed derivative, but there is nothing strange about that, as I have said before, all of us designers reference something, draw inspiration from somewhere, so I am not doing anything that others before me haven't done.
                              All painters use paint, and most paint on canvas, can we say they are all derivative of the first painter to paint on canvas?
                              That being said, there is also some very "original" ideas in some of the clothing. Ideas that are unique to me, my way of working and truly represents the frame of reference and ideas that i've tried to develop over the years. People like Faust, Laika etc who've known my work from when I did Women's collections can easily make the link between the ideas here and the ones I've worked on over the years.
                              Anyone who knows how I dress in real life can easily see why my collections would have the pieces that are here as they are in some ways an extension of the type of clothing I've always worn

                              Words are used to convey ideas, Jargon exist to communicate within an industry and to a group that would easily understand whats being said. my "Soft J" pants have more in common with these

                              than they do with with any existing pants from any of the designers we discuss here (whatever that means, as we discuss MANY designers here)

                              The Magic Penny shirt is my own concept, referencing a legend in the history of my country, Jamaica. the fabric is from there, the mineral salts used to wash the shirt is from there, the story and the coin in the pocket of the shirt is from there...............Who did I copy here ?.

                              The POLIS BAG is my own idea. Polis being the Greek word for free democratic city states. the idea was to create a bag that would be able to carry all the essentials of a modern city dweller. items such as a Laptop Computer, a Jacket, a few books, cellphone, wallet, keys etc.
                              The original Polis was a more rigorous bag, made with five pockets out of Cordura (Military Fabric) and leather, the bag as been refined and resigned, twice

                              The NICK bag is named after my wife (Nicole) and there is a story there I won't share with you...........

                              The SIAMESE Bag is my own idea and a concept that I intend to explore further

                              The PHOENIX bag is my own idea and design, it stems from the source by which the leather for the bag is acquired.

                              The DNA Pants is my own idea..........rooted in the discussion of Evolution v/s Creation, intelligent design and the dispute about how "DNA" shows or tell of an "Intelligent Creator"
                              The seams on the pants rotate around the wearers leg in the same way DNA molecular structure drawings rotate.........

                              The use of Black is something I've always done in my work, not for the reasons others do, but in part because when I moved to New York and started designing I had no money, it was easy to find good quality Fabrics in Black. As a result of this necessity it became a recurring signature of my work. I dont need to do it now, but find that using black and other muted shades allow for focus on cut, construction and quality than on surface details. I would rather create a garment of exceptional quality that fits well than something that has to be promoted with stories.......
                              stories might enhance the mystique of an already interesting and well made piece, but as you say "the items should be able to stand on their on" without the stories.

                              The green in the bags stems from my experiences designing Military Apparel for the company in which the link referencing the "Soft J" pants is posted. It is a color that hopefully will become an important part of the color palette of future collections.

                              If you had seen the thread I created in the announcement and feedback section you would know how the work came about, and that I said that I am still searching to establish the thinks that I really want to express in my work, to develop a "Zam Barrett" range and language, if you will. I think S/S 2011 will do a much bolder Job of that...............
                              Last edited by zamb; 04-27-2010, 12:24 PM.
                              “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                              .................................................. .......................

                              Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock


                              • christianef
                                Senior Member
                                • Feb 2009
                                • 747

                                Originally posted by Faust View Post
                                I don't mean that the garments from each collection don't have esthetic cohesion, but rather that they don't have a story behind them. They are more garments for the sake of garments, not for the sake of telling a story. Not sure if that makes sense.
                                i agree and think it makes perfect sense. ann will base her collections on the idea of what an artist may throw on from his closet or what rimbaud would dress like today if he were still alive etc - there's always a story behind it not completely relevant to the actual garment which is different from poell doing joints and perforations etc.