Haider Ackermann leaves Berluti

[Law]

KVA's appointment isn't really that surprising. With the likes of Hedi, Kim, Virgil and KVA, it's obvious LVMH are chasing the millennial customers. Sad to see the current state of fashion...

You mean the I-generation?

[Fuuma]

LVMH clinging to what’s left of the residual spirit of the Hedi good old days?

Hedi is back in the LVMH fold...

[Law]

Hedi is back in the LVMH fold...

I meant as far as Dior Homme is concerned. But yes, will be interesting to see what direction he takes Celine.

[Muji]

For me it looks like they just had to put KVA somewhere, he has a long history within LVMH. Haider was just there and because his own label is no part of the conglomerate it was probably an easy shuffle for them. Still a weird decision because apparently the sales numbers at Berluti were growing.

[Faust]

For me it looks like they just had to put KVA somewhere, he has a long history within LVMH. Haider was just there and because his own label is no part of the conglomerate it was probably an easy shuffle for them. Still a weird decision because apparently the sales numbers at Berluti were growing.

I don't think they need to do anything just to be nice. I am still puzzled. Anyway, whatevs. One more shore to scratch off my calendar.

[ian+]

There is a rumor that Haider is going to Lanvin but I don't know if it's true at all.

[Law]

There is a rumor that Haider is going to Lanvin but I don't know if it's true at all.

That could be interesting, continuing of from Elbaz's romantic sensibilities, in a slightly more raw vein could work.

[Law]

Very sad and disturbing news if true.

https://www.retaildetail.eu/en/news/fashion/future-looks-grim-loss-making-haider-ackermann

[haydn]

Very sad and disturbing news if true.

https://www.retaildetail.eu/en/news/...ider-ackermann

I’m sure a big hit to his ego. Most of his work isn’t exactly retail friendly and can be a challenge to wear. He needs better business around him and somebody to improve his commercial strategy. Anyway, he’s already working on women’s at another brand;

https://www.vogue.com/article/haider-ackermann-maison-ullens

Never heard of the brand, but it’s owned and operated by “ Baroness Myriam Ullens de Schooten” who is aparently a regular at fashion shows (including Haiders). So hopefully she can bankroll him back into business.

[Faust]

/\ Truer words have never been spoken

[Anton]

KVA is the greatest mystery to me. Here is a nonentity who has been incredibly successful retaining incredibly lucrative positions.

Mystery? That is exactly what the businesses wants - someone who makes everyone feel comfortable and there are no surprises. You know exactly what you're getting with KVR, no controversies, people are going to be comfortable, retail will be (probably) happy and everyone can say that they have a real designer in house who's doing "amazing things for the brand's creative direction, revolutionising while paying homage to blah blah blah...". You essentially want people who are brand friendly, whatever the brand is (across industries).

The average consumer just buys the brand name, the average Nike consumer and Berluti might be different 'personas' but in reality they can be after very similar things with some social differences. If they barely pay attention to the quality of the product it's almost certain that they will not be paying attention to design sophistication (Is there a quality difference between a 50$ sweatshirt and a 500$ one? I have my doubts) or anything else I think. There are some exception, but overall this is just a progression of different brands in the directions that similar brands have taken some years ago.

[Faust]

Mystery? That is exactly what the businesses wants - someone who makes everyone feel comfortable and there are no surprises. You know exactly what you're getting with KVR, no controversies, people are going to be comfortable, retail will be (probably) happy and everyone can say that they have a real designer in house who's doing "amazing things for the brand's creative direction, revolutionising while paying homage to blah blah blah...". You essentially want people who are brand friendly, whatever the brand is (across industries).

The average consumer just buys the brand name, the average Nike consumer and Berluti might be different 'personas' but in reality they can be after very similar things with some social differences. If they barely pay attention to the quality of the product it's almost certain that they will not be paying attention to design sophistication (Is there a quality difference between a 50$ sweatshirt and a 500$ one? I have my doubts) or anything else I think. There are some exception, but overall this is just a progression of different brands in the directions that similar brands have taken some years ago.

I mean, that's valid, but then why pay this guy a lot of money to do it? He's not a celebrity designer, he doesn't drive sales. It's strange.

[haydn]

I mean, that's valid, but then why pay this guy a lot of money to do it? He's not a celebrity designer, he doesn't drive sales. It's strange.

https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-d...ti-1234805166/

And Van Assche is finally out. Berluti shifted him to replace Haider because “he understood accessories”, and let him go because they wanted to “set the pace of their collections”. Neither of which are surely correct. Likely he was under contract at Dior and it was cheaper to move him to Berluti and make room for Kim Jones. LVMH saying they are taking back control and pace of their collections is an odd choice, as Van Assche would have had little to do with setting the pace of his twice yearly RTW collections which only reach a handful of stores.

Anyway, still feel Haider was robbed in the Dior-Vuitton-Berluti shuffle, but Van Assche and his mediocrity out the door (and likely not to another house) is a small victory.